Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 59 of total 59 in this topic |
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jun 17, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
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Damn, so close and yet so far.
Thanks Ansel E.
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c wilmot
climber
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Jun 17, 2015 - 08:18pm PT
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Was the climber injured or did the park service rescue his gear?
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Jun 17, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
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Thanks Tom.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Jun 17, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
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If his wrists did not let him procede or descend safely, he did the right thing calling for a rescue. Better than pushing it and adding another greese spot to the base of el cap.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 17, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
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Gee, my hands hurt.
Shall we call for rescue? Not yet, Cristobal and I are tough. Moving up from ECT manana. Cristobal did some bad ass runout wyde 10 and 11 climbing.
Where is Schneidly Whiplash?? I miss Anita514. Sigh. Ledge not the same without her.
Arriba!!!
Cheers, eh?
PtPP and Cristobal
Ps. I need to sneeze.....
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Pussy!
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jun 18, 2015 - 12:28am PT
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I am glad to see Matt got off safely.
Why disrespect someone who decides to not take chances when it really doesn't feel right? There is a lot of things you/me don't know about the situation, and there is a lot of potential for someone else needing to call to get a real emergency rescue (read dangerous) or even recovery going if the plug isn't pulled before sh#t hits the fan.
The boys and girls at yosar also prefer this kind of "fun" exercise to full on emergency rescues or recoveries, I am sure. Free ride to El Cap? Don't worry, I am sure nobody hated their day.
If anything, Matt took the chance to summit on his own from himself and other than that, no harm was done ....
Oh and your tax money pays for every fat idiot who decides he can "climb" half dome so he can buy a t-shirt and then needs a rescue and that happens about once a week in summer.
edit. hudon did the same, just that he called some guys he knew and had them rescue him - and he didn't get any sh#t for that - thankfully. now don't be lame because "Matt" doesn't sounds a great/extreme as Hugedong.
edit2. best wishes for your recovery Matt. Hope it's nothing too bad..
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jun 18, 2015 - 12:38am PT
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Fully agree with the last post.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jun 18, 2015 - 01:10am PT
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I had a nice visit with a mom and her ducklings this morning. Photo of the deadbeat dad shortly after their conception:
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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Jun 18, 2015 - 07:18am PT
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A real bummer for him, but I would think he had a really good reason to call for a rescue being that close to the top. Those last couple of pitches are pretty low angle and easy.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 18, 2015 - 07:29am PT
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Good job search and rescue!
Good job Matty!
Too bad his back went out so bad that his hands didn't work..
Edit: piton pete Matty is one of the original camp 5 ers!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 18, 2015 - 07:46am PT
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Great report as usual. Must have been a tough call for Matt but sounds like the right one. Hope he heals soon and gets on the wall again!
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2015 - 08:00am PT
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I am surprised... guess I shouldn't be knowing how the Taco is these days...to see the haters come out without any information as to the situation on the rock. I know of no climbers who would call for a
"convenience" rescue. I think it best to learn the situation before slandering people but that never seems to be the case here.
Pete I am always amazed at your endless need to promote yourself... here you are taking advantage of another climbers misfortune to tell everyone how tough and great you are... pitiful really.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:06am PT
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I have Carpal tunnel syndrome in both hands.
It has fully locked up on me during work, rendering me useless for up to 2 days.
I came off a 7 day route, and could not use my hands for 5 days.
I could see this type of ailment, if it happened on a solo, warrant a rescue.
You never know how or what is going on until the climber gets a chance to tell his story.
Glad Matt will have that opportunity.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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IIRC Mark got quite a bit of undeserved hate for his rescue mostly in the terms of people trying to invalidate the "purity" of his ascent.
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c wilmot
climber
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:45am PT
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I merely posed a question- and having worked in YOS for the NPS- one that I feel is relevant given that the NPS operates on a slim budget.
It is also silly to knock others for their "speculation" of info you yourself posted.
And lastly- if you climbed yourself into a dumb position with a pre- existing injury- then that is pretty much your fault- and you should pay for the rescue
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iron duchess maiden or whatever
Social climber
under a pile of rock
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:47am PT
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Yes Tom,
you do know how the Taco is. These days, as before...
it hasn't changed much, except of course, for
the fact that the haters are proportionally increasing. It's a new generation Tom. 1970s climbers were proud and free. But these kids, it's scary. Seems a lot of young people have little to do all day other than throwing up their last meal onto whatever appears on their screen.
Pathetic.
The future looks grim. Or to quote a 1970s guy who knew:
There's no future... no future! No future for you [them].
Oh, and Tom, happy birthday. This time is hmmmm... 74?
saa
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 18, 2015 - 09:12am PT
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C Wilmot...My post was not speculation, as I was in contact with Matt and knew his situation... I simply stated the facts and the haters came out... I have always tried to give this site the benefit of the doubt and even stopped posting for a time... looks like a good time to go back to that...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 18, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Great response Tom. The hate by the few is par for them. It just makes them look like the fools they are.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jun 18, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:47am PT
Yes Tom,
you do know how the Taco is. These days, as before...
it hasn't changed much, except of course, for
the fact that the haters are proportionally increasing. It's a new generation Tom. 1970s climbers were proud and free. But these kids, it's scary. Seems a lot of young people have little to do all day other than throwing up their last meal onto whatever appears on their screen.
Pathetic.
The future looks grim. Or to quote a 1970s guy who knew:
There's no future... no future! No future for you [them].
Seems to me I see way more bitching and hate from your generation than my own on this site.
Someone willing to get that close on a solo and throw in the towel makes me think he had good reasons. Either way I don't really care and glad he's off safely.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 18, 2015 - 09:53am PT
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Hope his hands come back. If it's a neurological degeneration issue, that can really be debilitating.
Good call on a rescue at that point, rather than try for it and get in a more fuxed position and put Yosar in more danger than needed.
Controlled. Daylight. Before it got bad.
Makes sense.
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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Seems to me I see way more bitching and hate from your generation than my own on this site.
I wanted to say the same. Those who showed what fools they are on this thread are all old farts.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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Ben.....you may remember that you had two "old farts" show you the way on the Evolution Traverse.
There is a lot of ageist abuse thrown at people who have managed to keep the grim reaper at bay...why is this?
What is the corollary for "old fart" perhaps "young dickhead."
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:34am PT
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Jim I prefer "young queefs"
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:36am PT
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Great pics Tom. Many thanks to YOSAR as they are ready when climbers on the Captain are in trouble. Those of us lucky enough not to have been in a position to need a rescue (yet) need not judge.
Cheers,
Doug
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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you may remember that you had two "old farts" show you the way on the Evolution Traverse. I do remember two old men showing me the way on that traverse, but I am sure you and George do not qualify as "farts".
There is a lot of ageist abuse thrown at people who have managed to keep the grim reaper at bay...
I am sorry if I offended you. I didn't know ageist abuse was a problem that existed here.
What is the corollary for "old fart" perhaps "young dickhead." Wow, thanks.
I thought this was clear, but ok. I wasn't referring to everyone older than whatever age. I was referring to two or three idiots who chose to put themselves on a pedestal and take a piss from there.
edit. in any case, Jim. Sorry if I offended you, I wish to apologise. I appreciate what you did for me on many occasions.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:59am PT
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Ben, I know you don't feel that way....hell, you've climbed with me enough! I really enjoy climbing with MUCH younger climbers....keeps me on my toes and helps my perspective stay fesh.
It just seems that whenever the age of an older climber comes up its in a somewhat derogatory sense.
Getting older isn't for sissies....believe me. I hope and trust you'll find out for yourself.
We have to share a rope again sometime in the near future.
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Jun 18, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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Getting older isn't for sissies
You got that right buddy. In my experience, existing and surviving at 50 and up takes more push than it ever did at 30. Hell, 30 was EASY.
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Jun 18, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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It just seems that whenever the age of an older climber comes up its in a somewhat derogatory sense. That is a bummer, I honestly wasn't aware that was the case.
I realise what a dumb post of mine the one you referred to was.
We should climb together:) I have a car now, maybe you should come out here?
I will be in the Valley with my dad though, from Aug.20 till Sept. 10. Definitely heading up to TM too for a day or two. Maybe our paths cross?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 18, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Going to the Caucases this Fall but next year the Dolomites beckon.
Wasn't a dumb post, I was having a senior moment......now where did I put my coffee?
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jun 18, 2015 - 11:27am PT
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Far better to be safe than sorry.
Seems to me Mark Hudon, who I'm pretty sure is no one's idea of a wimp or inexperienced, had to ask for help pretty high up on El Cap the year before last.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 18, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
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I have always tried to give this site the benefit of the doubt and even stopped posting for a time... looks like a good time to go back to that..
Tom, I, for one, would feel a real loss. You've provided me with progress reports of friends when I'm stuck in the flats and heat of the Big Raisin, and otherwise unable to see and know what they're doing.
We all have a tendency to judge others, whether it's a climber on El Cap a policeman confronting a civilian, or (my personal sin) a driver with whom I share the road. We seldom have the information needed to make that judgment, and few seem inclined to honor the direction to "Judge not, that you not be judged." Please don't let our human imperfection stop your wonderful reports.
John
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 18, 2015 - 02:01pm PT
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FWIW I've known Matt for quite a while and we've climbed together. If Matt decided to call for a rescue it was for good reason. In our circle of friends one of the things we talk about a lot is the ethic of self sufficiency and the proudness of self rescue.
Haterz be haterz, but I'm quite certain y'all have no idea what actually went on up there. For Stanich to toss it in that close to the top in good weather means to me that he simply couldn't progress upwards. I know he sure as hell wanted too.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jun 18, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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Super lame to be dissing this guy. Probably wasn't an easy decision to make, especially after all the time and effort he put in.
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dave729
Trad climber
Western America
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Jun 18, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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I would not shove him out of the helicopter for a 'my hands hurt' rescue
either.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jun 18, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
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Pussy! So speaks the fat guy standing in a pair of aiders.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Jun 18, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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PTPP, Potatoehead, STFU.
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Sparky
Trad climber
vagabond movin on
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Jun 18, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
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Pretty shocked at some of you quick to judge. I know Matt and he's not one quick to bail. Far from. Pete and Potato, go scramble that egg off your face.
Jeff Stephan
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jun 18, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
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Like Kris said, Matt is a solid climber, I've roped up with him before and I know that if he called for a rescue, he really needed it.
The internet trolls are quick to throw their negativity around, but you won't see many of them trying to solo an El Cap route. How quick people are to judge without knowing the facts, pretty sad really, The Internet promotes negativity because of this anonymity. people say things on the internet that they would never say to a person's face because they just don't have the balls to say those things to someone else's face.
That's my .02 cents
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 18, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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Anyone judging this guy can stfu. You don't know what happened up there.
Show a little class taco.
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
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Matt, hope you feel better soon! I know that must have been a super hard call to make, glad you are ok. I think you may have started the same day my partner and I topped out on VA/Trip or maybe a day later, a lot of work to get up there - congrats to you for having the motivation to go solo.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jun 18, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
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hey there say, matt... and all... i don't know you, and, i am not a climber, but i do know this:
whenever one is doing something, where 'one little thing can go wrong' and you die:
well, when that 'thing' is THUS going wrong... one STOPS...
glad you knew when something was wrong, and were humble enough to yield to wisdom... you are loved by family and friends, and may your next climbs be all that you hope for...
wisdom, is learned along the way... BUT-- one must be alive, to use it well, again--for whatever the needs, later down-the-road...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jun 19, 2015 - 07:48am PT
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Seems like a lot of excitement over the comments of an immature man-child starved for attention - he sure knows where to go to get it.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 19, 2015 - 08:39am PT
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Yeah, I was all ready to jump on the Hate Wagon until I saw it was Matty.
He's an old skool caliber hard man.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Jun 20, 2015 - 10:56am PT
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Yeah it was I who got rescued. I'll give more details later and write up a TR. until then I'll just say both my hands still don't work, I can't come close to making a fist with either one and the doctor measured my grip strength at less than 3 lbs. I'll offer exibit A into the court of public opinion as evidence of my willingness to call for a rescue. Exibit A chronicles a leaning tower self rescue crawl out descent with a broken leg. Sorry the picture Links are broken at this point.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=179707&tn=0#msg179707
Thank you to my friends and those of you who reserved judgement until you knew more. Calling for a rescue was one of the hardest choices ever. I spent a tearful rest day in agony with numb unresponsive hands (still not better). If even one hand worked I would have climbed myself out. If I knew a crew of local monkeys I would have called them. Thanks to yosar for their help, truly the best.
Matt
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Jun 20, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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1970s climbers were proud and free. But these kids, it's scary. Seems a lot of young people have little to do all day other than throwing up their last meal onto whatever appears on their screen.
Each new generation says that about the last. I meet lots of great young people, full of life and energy. The future is in good hands.
. . . . and get the F*&K off my lawn!!!!
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crankster
Trad climber
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Jun 20, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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Sorry if I'm sounding dickish.
Yes, you are.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Jun 20, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
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My friends would give me the same sh#t, and if they didn't I'd have to quit trusting them. Wait till their day comes and the reason is hemorrhoids or male candidiasis.(candidiasis, which spell check wants to change to Canadianism, that is so funny, PTPP)
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 20, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
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Good on you Matty!
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Jun 20, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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I'm sending matty good healing juju for his hands. Sorry he had to spend precious healing time justifying his decision to us, but i get it. Its hard to see your community fail to give you the benefit of the doubt.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 29, 2015 - 10:03am PT
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Update: My hands have been recovering slowly but nicely. Except the last week when my left hand has gotten a bit worse. I'm hoping it's just a bump in the road. The doctors think its carpel tunnel. I currently have no pain on the right side and a slightly numb/tingling fingers on the left. It's been a huge hassle dealing with all the delays involved because of the way my insurance is set up. It is open enrollment at work now and I will be changing my insurance. I am starting physical therapy and have a nerve conductivity test coming up. I hate that it's taken so long to get to this point and hope I wont have any permanent damage or need surgery. I still plan on posting a trip report some time. Big thanks again to SAR and those of you who have supported me.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 29, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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Just caught this thread. Damn dude you are one bad MOFO. Hope the best for the recovery, hard to see one of our own get rescued but always happy to see people getting better.
Get after it asap!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Sep 29, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
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Thx. Greg
I'll be back after these damn wrists get figured out. Made a brace out of a nut tool during my rest days before the rescue. Good idea but it didn't help.
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nopantsben
climber
europe
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Sep 29, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
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Good to hear you're recovering, even if slowly. I hope that it continues like that.
Best wishes.
-b
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 29, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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best wishes Matt!
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
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Great to hear from you Matt.. I had hoped the recovery would have been a lot faster for you bro... People who know you know the real deal... ignore the haters and self promoters on this site. See you again up on the hill!
Regards Tom
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c wilmot
climber
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Sep 29, 2015 - 11:03pm PT
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I want to apologize for questioning your need for rescue. I assumed some things that I never should have and I suppose I forgot about the human involved in the situation.
Never met you but- heal up....and sorry for being ignorant
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