5.10d, The New Old-school 5.9

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le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Apr 14, 2015 - 12:49pm PT

Warbler:

No way is The Wafer 10b... Fer sure harder than Cramming or first pitch of New D or EBC. Seems harder than Leanie Meanie too, for that matter. When I did The Nabisco Wall I thought The Wafer was the hardest pitch.

Waverly is tough as hell for me, kind of like Reeotch said, takes me to my limit just about every time. But even though its crux section is hard, imo it's not Leanie Meanie hard.

LM's crux is just meaner.

Little Wing and Mark of Art are two more tough .10d climbs. Five and Dime my nemesis, I don't even talk about it any more.

dogtown

Trad climber

Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.

Apr 14, 2015 - 01:30pm PT

T-zone 10C is a testie off-width with tubes for sure!

Laine

Trad climber

Reno, NV

Apr 14, 2015 - 01:56pm PT

Lord Caffeine in Yose and Aja at Rainbow are two of the most sandbagged 10d's I done.

I done a few FAs I rated 10d for fear of rating them 11a so I guess I'm guilty (like Roof Bravado at Woodfords). For me it's one of those grade I might assign since mid 11's are at my limit and I think it's probably not an 11 since I fired it. So I guess I agree with the OP.

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Apr 14, 2015 - 02:19pm PT

I thought Lord Caffeine was .11a. Still, that felt light compared to the start of Crammin'. That made the final stretch of New Dimension feel soft.

MisterE

Gym climber

Being In Sierra Happy Of Place

Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2015 - 07:25pm PT

I should have put 5.9+ - good point.

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Apr 14, 2015 - 07:31pm PT

Check out Henry Barber climbing Waverly Wafer barefoot!

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Waverly Wafer is at 1:25.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Apr 14, 2015 - 07:32pm PT

Nice climbs all.....it is the CLIMB that is too hard for you NOT the rating. The climb is reality the rating attached to it is subjective, arbitrary and temporary.

People climb climbs they don't climb ratings.

briham89

Big Wall climber

santa cruz, ca

Apr 14, 2015 - 07:48pm PT

Perfect timing, since I got shut down on a 10d on Saturday! haha

Rawhide at the Grotto...my big hands suck for the lower section

thebravecowboy

climber

the Midcontinent Rift

Apr 14, 2015 - 11:43pm PT

sweet share Mark F. thanks!

chill

climber

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing

Apr 15, 2015 - 07:22am PT

Five and Dime my nemesis

Good, I'm not the only one. Also Fingerlickin.

Reeotch

climber

4 Corners Area

Apr 15, 2015 - 11:31am PT

Anyone been "Raked Over the Coles"
Or to the "Rubicon"
Or taken the "Imaginary Voyage"

How 'bout that "High Plains Drifter"?

crankster

Trad climber

Apr 15, 2015 - 12:52pm PT

Peter Principle at Snowshed, Donner. Got my number.

Alexey

climber

San Jose, CA

Apr 15, 2015 - 01:06pm PT

I have a list of 10d Yosemite’s routes I climbed in my order from easiest to hardest ( very subjective I guess, but it interesting to see what other climbers think).
It was a time when I was trying to nail all 10d's in the Valley , which have at least one star in the book

1.Serenity Crack p3. *
2.Lucky Streaks p3 *
3.Catchy **
4.Vanishing Point**
5. Maniana ***
6. Moratorium p1**
7.The Thief ***
8. Independence Center p3 -10d **
9. Lazy Bum*
10.Book of Revelations, p1 **
11. Hardy Pinnacle*
12. Five & Dime **
13. Waverly Wafer ( 10c, but this is my place in 10d list)***
14. Gold Dust**
15. Memo From Lloyd [TM] **
16. Axis aka Blotto at Arch**
17. 2nd pitch of Moratorium**
18.TwilightZone***
19. Dagger **
20. Ten Years After ***
21. Olga’s trick**
22. 5th 10d pitch on Rostrum ( layback roof)**
23. Lord Caffeine[TM] ***
24. 1096***
25. Cramming ***
26.Ying Yang***
27. Steppin' Out ***
28. Finger Lickin' ***
29.Little Wing** never red point
30.Good Book (p3)*** never red point
31. Mark of the Art*** never red point
32. Slack Center p1 * never red point

FinalExam*** ? - never climbed, but see it once - looks good, but long hike

tolman_paul

Trad climber

Anchorage, AK

Apr 15, 2015 - 01:09pm PT

Speaking of snowshed and 10d's, I'd always muff the crux on Airial.

Byran

climber

San Jose, CA

Apr 15, 2015 - 01:14pm PT

On the topic of 10d's that make you feel like you're not a 5.10 climber. Anyone ever been on Romantic Tension? It's on the headwall above the Cookie Sheet in Yosemite, just below Gait of Power and Tunnel Vision. It's a Jonny Woodward and Dimitri Barton route I believe. Looks like kind of a sandbag. I only made it about 20 ft up the unprotected face at the start, then unexpectedly broke off a hold, and decided to climb back down with my tail between my legs. The crux pitch looming above looks... uh... formidable. A drastically overhanging flake, and wide too. Probably really spectacular climbing.

le_bruce

climber

Oakland, CA

Apr 15, 2015 - 02:44pm PT

Alexey that is a sweet list. For the ones I've done, this is how I'd reorder them (not on the list = I haven't tried it). A few of these where I've noted I seconded or haven't led:

1.Serenity Crack p3. *
2. Lucky Streaks p3 *
3. Catchy **
5. Maniana ***
8. Independence Center p3 -10d **
9. Lazy Bum*
32. Slack Center p1 (only tr'd it, never tried to lead, felt not too bad)
22. 5th 10d pitch on Rostrum ( layback roof)**
4. Vanishing Point**
14. Gold Dust**
15. Memo From Lloyd [TM] **
26. Ying Yang*** (0 for 2 rp tries, goes ok on TR, haven't done p2)
13. Waverly Wafer (0 for 3 on rp tries, goes ok on mini)***
12. Five & Dime ** (0 for ?? 6? on rp tries! ##$%#$)
29. Little Wing** (0 for 1)
31. Mark of the Art*** (0 for 1)

In summary, man, I thought Vanishing Point and Five & Dime were much harder than you did! If I were to put the Midget Chimney (Reed .10c) in there, which we did together, I'd put it just above Memo from Lloyd (though I only seconded it)