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Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Jul 9, 2016 - 08:13am PT
With an apology to the gathering this needed its own post in my humble opinion.

No Mandy lorn from the Mechanic JRigg
I'm back in to report what a fine Rant!
And here it is!

Jul 8, 2016 - 12:22am PT
It's late. I'm tired. I'm angry.
Right now, bad things are going down. Cops have been murdered in Dallas. People are saying this is in response to the unnecessary killing to two armed black men elsewhere. I watched one video, which was sad. Watched a man die there. Couldn't see his hand. Couldn't tell whether he was fighting the cops, reaching for his gun, or what. Bad camera angle. The other? Sounds like the cop overreacted, needlessly. Saw the cop get gunned down behind a pillar too. (MOVE goddam it!

Lots of people blame the guns. The mere fact that they are here. That they are available.

In the wake of tragedy, confronted by horrible acts and unintentional nightmares resulting from carelessness and stupidity, it's easy to see why people get so emotional, so desperate to take action, to DO SOMETHING!, even if it's wrong. Although, in their mind, it's not wrong. It's right. If they could save one life, stop one three year old from accidentally taking a bullet to the brain, it would be worth all the trouble, even if it meant repealing one of the constitutional rights granted us by our founding fathers.

No, you say? It isn't a right? You have to be in a militia? Sorry, the court ruled. It's an individual right. Get over it.

Now mind you - and here is where the old hypocritical bullsh#t-o-meter kicks in - a lot of these same people take unnecessary risks themselves and put other people's lives at danger. We're climbers, right? People die climbing on a regular basis. People who rail and scream at the supposed injustice of the proliferation of firearms also staunchly defend their position on free-soloing to simply be an expression of their individual freedom. They openly accept that risk, knowing well it could kill them. Do they consider the people they leave behind? Is it not always a tragic event for the survivors? Ah yes, but they're not really hurting anyone else. Not really. Just a little emotional pain and suffering, really. Unless, well... unless you teach/encourage/allow your kids to follow in your footsteps, sans rope. But wait, you say... you're in control. Yeah, so was Bachar, right? If anyone had it dialed...

So I haven't really addressed you putting others at risk. Ok. You drive too fast. 5mph over? Nah, that never hurt anyone. Look, I used to move cars for NHP from time to time at the "death yard", as in, vehicles that were involved in fatalities. Speed kills. So do cell phones, kids, make-up, alcohol, poor judgement, fatigue, medication, maintenance (or rather lack of it), aggression, tail-gating, distraction, inattention, and sucking down quarter pounders with cheese. Accidents.

F*#king preventable accidents!

And I guarantee just about every one of you as#@&%es has participated in at least one of those things, probably on a regular basis, and probably more than one at the same time, either recently, repeatedly, or simply as a daily matter of course.

Lecture me about the dangers of guns! F*#k you.

You might have rolled out of bed, chuffed a cigarette half-way to the kitchen where you fried up half a pound of bacon with some cheesy eggs and a bloody mary as a hair-of-the-dog fix for last night's triple torpedo IPA kegger, then stepped outside and smoked a bowl of your favorite hawaiian red, so you could focus, then overstrained your sphincter on the toilet to pinch out last week's blue cheese encrusted 10 lb porter house with onion rings. And you want to talk predictable gun violence? Ok. While you're at it just remember... your clogged arteries are predictable too. And they'll probably stop your heart on the shitter long before a gun of any sort ever actually pokes its inherently sinister nose in your general direction. But hey, you've got control over your diet. Thank god for miracle drugs, eh?!

And that's another thing... drugs. Smoke a bowl? Celebrate 420 at 4:20 on 4/20 with a blunt you scored for $20? Congratulations!!! You just made my d#@&%ebag idiot of the year list. If you bitch about guns, but partake in ANY illicit/semi-illicit drug use whatsoever then YOU ARE PART OF THE F*#KING GUN PROBLEM YOU'RE BITCHING ABOUT. Wait, how's that work again? It's like this: the money goes to a dealer, then a cartel. They use big nasty illegal weapons to commit heinous crimes here and abroad to maintain control of their markets and operations, in the name of profit. They will not abide our gun laws. They will obtain new weapons regardless of our gun laws. They will continue to use those weapons to commit atrocities, and YOU ARE DIRECTLY FUNDING THOSE ACTIONS.

So if you smoke anything you didn't grow in your own back yard, and you fell like saying anything at all about firearms just keep your f*#king mouth shut. Mm-k?

No no, you say. Too many legal owners go f*#king nuts. They improperly store their weapons and their kids get access to them, causing unthinkable tragedies.

Ok, kids and guns first. Agreed. Believe it or not, this is where you and I agree that something should be done. You say, get rid of the guns. Require safe storage (define that: empty, disassembled in a combo safe that takes an hour to access?). See, we disagree on the finer points. So how about stiff penalties? Say, if you leave your gun out and your kid (or someone else's kid) shoots himself or someone else, you go to jail. You get fined. You lose your gun rights forever (how about some due process appeal process?). Seems simple enough. Although now I've certainly pissed on the pro-gun movement's parade. F*#k off. Come up with something you can live with, or go down in flames when they ban you to 4 round non-detachable mags and mandatory insurance.

Gun owners need to get smacked upside the head if they think:
a) little Johnny knows better than to touch my glock
b) it can't happen to me. My kids would never...

Legal owners going nuts. That's kind of a different nutshell. Or is that nut-case? Sh#t happens. People DO go nuts. They get divorced. They get married. They have kids. Their kids die. Their gets do drugs. Their kids deal drugs. Their kids decide they're gay. Their spouses decide they're gay. Their grandparents reveal they've always been conservative gay muslim nazis. Sh#t happens. What we lack here is treatment and reporting. See, people with mental health issues aren't really supposed to be buying guns. And that kind of crap falls through the loopholes. Now, you'll probably tell me that I'm barking up the wrong tree here, that this is not a feasible method of curbing gun violence. Well hey, I'm looking at it as a double-edged sword. Reduce some of the issues that contribute to gun violence by providing treatment and reporting, and deal with some nasty social ills as a byproduct. Or vis a vis.

Remember now, you weren't really looking for a full-on ban of all weapons, no, your argument was for a reduction. So don't tell me it wouldn't be enough; because I keep hearing this "if it only saved one life" argument from the anti-gun side. Spare me.

So what about your right to be safe from gun violence? Well, what about it? You're pissing in the wind. I want to be safe from reckless drivers, idiots at work (workplace deaths... jesus, a whole 'nother category of preventable deaths), drug dealers/cartels, gangs, toxic chemicals, poor construction, terrorism, and my own bad habits. Some of those I can influence, some not so much.

In the land of higher education, they're to prescient as to require staff to watch an "active shooter" video. The premise is that the risk of someone coming on campus with a firearm, intent to kill, is great enough that they must provide this training to all employees on what to do if this occurs. You know how you're allowed to protect yourself? Not with a gun. So homie brings a prohibited firearm on campus, opens fire at anywhere from point-blank to, oh, maybe a couple hundred yards, and I'm supposed to defend myself (quoting from the video) by any means necessary. F*#king seriously? Stop making me watch that f*#king video if you don't believe in my right to self-defense. I could quit, and someday I may; but for now I just don't think it's really going to happen.

I don't much think I'm going to get in an accident while driving either. Indeed, 30 years of driving and I've only been in three. The only one in which I was driving, I got rear-ended. By a kid on a cell phone. Accident? Nope, 100 f*#king % preventable. Dude, that's how people die. So I wear a seat belt.

I do other safety-conscious things, like keep a fire extinguisher around. Keep medications out of reach of my kids. Bolt the dressers to the walls. Have an emergency gas shut-off tool on my gas meter at home. You know, totally boring sh#t that I'll probably never use. Like the gun I have for self-defense. Probably never need it.

But, you never really know.

Carson City, near my home, dude walks into a restaurant and kills people. I wasn't there. What if? F*#k if I know. Square up and take him out like John Wayne? Not likely. See, I'm no Donini. I have no doubt that man would come flying out of the faux leather diner booth like a mix between a nuclear spider monkey and Iron Man on crank and simply vaporize the dude with his laser vision and a snide comment; but I have different priorities. Like, don't draw attention, take cover, get my family OUT. I'm sure this fits in with his general disdainful view of most armed rednecks; and I'm OK with that. Maybe, just maybe, if I'm trapped and can't get out or get my family out, I might get a lucky shot off and stop/deflect the attack long enough to save my family. Maybe I'll die anyway; but if that happens then I'm probably dead anyway. Last-ditch, like bailing out of a truck with no brakes before it plummets over the Grand Canyon.

Guy with a gun in the Wallyworld parking lot looking to score some dope money? Dude, here's my wallet. You're doing me a favor by stealing my credit. Who knows, every situation is different, and what-ifs don't mean much. Although, I gota say I'm pretty confident that a guy with a CCW could take out a pair of armed terrorists with explosives half-way into their assault and some dumb son of a bitch would question whether he was justified in pulling the trigger.

Either way, the hypocrisy just kills me. You take risks, I take risks, we pass that on to our kids, we bitch about it. We try to eliminate other people's rights and abilities in the name of our own perceived safety without giving it due thought or due process, and the world just gets to be a shittier place as a result.

You're losing your freedoms. Not just guns, there are others as well. While you're bitching about getting tooled at the latest local cop-op for your own poor judgement in going 10mph over (risking other people's lives dipshit), you're sort of also welcoming police state type of controls over firearm ownership, communications, the perceived threat of terrorism, etc.

Why not try education instead? It works for pregnancy. Right? Teach teens about birth control and STD's and they become more responsible. (Yeah, that's a big FU to the christian right, btw.) Healthcare? Not really the answer, you say, although you were probably ecstatic over the passage of obamacare. Or not, depending which side of the fence you're on. Go after things like No-fly-list/No guns (AND INSTITUTE DUE PROCESS for those of you who overlooked the reference the first time around).

Basically, if you want to trod on my (federal supreme court verified) individual rights to keep and bear arms, then f*#king suck it up and try giving up some of your rights in the name of doing something truly effective.

Seriously. Semi-auto rifle ban? Mag capacity ban? Background checks for ammo? I got a friend with all that sh#t in California. All. Legally. Owned. Well, up until now. Tell me how you're going to remove it from him, short of a legal warrant and/or forced entry?

You're not. Not for him, not for millions of people like him. Especially not for the people MOST likely to commit the type of atrocities you fear/hate/abhor. And he's got at least another 30 years of life left in him, give or take a pound of bacon and his aggressive (typical) California driving style.

Australia, Canada, Japan, China, various parts of Europe... go. They've got the healthcare, they lack the firearms. Whatever the f*#k it is that keeps you here is a god damn mystery. If you're going to stay, just please stop being a hypocritical d#@&%ebag. Now, f*#k off of this gun thread, climb something, and post a worthwhile picture.

Or, you know... f*#k it. Let's just keep right on rehashing the same, boring, dried up sh#t over and over and over and over and over and over and over and over...

"guns are evil"
"mine aren't"
"you're evil"
"look at my glock"
"you're an as#@&%e"
"you started it"
"if it prevented just one death"
"that's a logical fallacy"
"bullsh#t. my statistics"
"bullsh#t. and anecdotal"
"f*#k you"
"too many guns"
"look, i bought a new glock"


Trad climber
Portland, Oregon

Jul 8, 2016 - 12:30am PT
Couldn't see his hand.. . . . . ., that is all I read.
woah! That defines : To long did not read?
That J Rigg yowzaa ! going Postal on the what pistol should I get? Thread.

Ice climber
Jul 9, 2016 - 08:28am PT
eZ access, no?

Nat'l City (my very first town)
CV (#2)
Berkeley (#3) WTF? Never saw even one homeboy in town.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Ice climber
Jul 9, 2016 - 08:45am PT
Ain't no Uncle Tom here.

Dedicated to, you know who they are.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2016 - 10:20am PT
Eau de Paris

In all the streets of Paris
There is no place quite so fair as
Degnan's in the park.

You may sit there and be seen there,
It’s really quite a scene there,
Chez Degnan de la parque.

And every day is different
From the day before;
But some things have really changed
From the days of yore.

No longer selling soda bread,
Now they’re selling Peet’s instead
Of the swill they once served up.

But it’s stronger, lasting longer,
And expensive (something’s wrong here)
To buy a smallish cup.

And something will be different
About tomorrow, sure.
But Ranger Rock remains the same:
The place they call Manure.

Ice climber
Jul 9, 2016 - 01:42pm PT
Serena's dog - all dressed up, nowhere to go

How she can continue to win with a racquet like this is beyond me.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Jul 9, 2016 - 05:00pm PT
Sh#t oldman river, thanks! Wow we might be able to turn this sh#t show into a fundraiser for one of our favorite nonprofit organization's !!! $150.00 so far you punters!
Yes that was stellar!

A n example of what happens.....
Major jump to a totally different location,
but if someone wants a good go fund me
Here ( I wish it was just my own life still, because this could be funded )

now I don't understand, is the rock so chossy that it won't hold gear ?

Here it is laid out for you if you need an outline, just ask.

The way this place now works is to send the people who need to climb here, ?,
to a ledge way off the ground , (4th pitch? ).It Is a disaster in the making,

Submitted By: Nick Sweeney on May 31, 2016, closed, well okay,
3/4 of the wall, the heavily bolted bottom, is closed ! 17 days later!

By Kevin Driscoll. Jun 16, 2016

The first pitch if off limits for access until further notice at the landowners request. You can still climb the upper buttress via access from the parking lot and the climbers trail. There are several excellent routes on the ledge just left of the 4th 10b pitch start for Orion. Makes it worth the hike up to climb these routes.

Five pitch atrocity?


Yahy? Orion, Highway Rock

But this is what is now expected?!!!? Not just excepted???

this should be the goal; a go fun'd me chopping trip to a Washington State,
price it out : costs for food , gas (choke) gear
You may need to bring going out to dinner money to help calm the land owners
And I'll bring the Perfect work cord; a 47 year old 45 m (150ft ) 9ml, because I did not
pick up the sweet red & yellow 50 year old pair.

What is going on so close to heaven? ( just across the border if you ski Whistler/Black Comb BC)
I would ask for explanations but I've thought up a snarky comment to place somewhere else.
Why does all this rock fall victim to the biggest non-climbers the gyms ever produced?
It has to be due to the for-ever n0ob, factor & the over protective treatment they receive?o

Last poem? Seems more public thought on the manner in which the mega syncopation
Has Buoyed more people than you can ever imagine Thankyou ,
some more thoughts.

In my time very few so remote to me & my life - have had an influence so big in my life.

To you and your family in the memory of the 'light', of the young son Ascended.
...( when We, the four or five people that grasped IT, " We're Climbers" in the grasp )
....( 0F some thing beyond any other religion or experience , those few, when we herd about the kid from the mags, it was the 1st time We questioned EVERY THING.
No way,
Not Him? He was so much "More Good"
& still now as the more I've seen, ?? Really?. I can not imagine your parents dropped locked jaws, send them my heathen prayers as if I'm even worthy. I cannot say more. . .
( it would not sit well with Tobin to know how his death,)
(in the fashion of a zipper, Led to many more than one atheist /agnostic/addict)

Climbing Has Been my religion, my God of choice, then, might be gravity?

I don't know I'm to busy learning how to keep climbing up rocks.
to spend any time to think deeply
about much else.

A life wasted, a wasted life ~ see rock, find rock, climb up rock, climb down rock, Feel G-dz presence? Rejoice ~ repeat.
Achieve insight in search of enlighten ment.... ( shoot me);)
the simple repetition is what becomes meditation and takes
on more or a deeper meaning, at a healing personal level. it is more than religion
given the physical component it is Drugs,

Climbing has been my main drug, all the others were self medicating to cure me of the thing I've got, I'm sick, that's what's wrong with me.

What's wrong with me ?I'm sick, it's contagious,
It infects the young, with random severity it can be fatal
Or a life long malady, kept in check by overhanging rock
Gravity and time are the cure -what have I got?
A Climbing Bug.and climbing is dangerous.

How many boys of a certain age were there? 10 thousand seems to many but across the globe? Say it was half of that five thousand of us, all pacing, waiting till we could get free & go
Climbing like him.

We only guessed. At his great spirit.
We only had black & white photographs. If you had not been in the
California sun light in the 70s then you did not get it .
& could not be told, it was a feeling.

& there was a kid just like you & me out there we didn't know of brothers or sheepbuggerers,
( maybe, but they were the older crew) we only knew that some other seventeen year old was sending desperate climbs .
not building skateboarding into a thing, a waste of time, Childs play,
in comparison to one of the three or four great things to do.
( nod to Cap't Hemingway )
If we couldn't have girls or cool cars to gat 'em,
we would be men & Climb.

We made lists of all the things we would do,
it seems now it was a lot like Harrison's basement.

On the lists each of us made we included things like surf, drive fast, scuba dive, parachute. . .
I put climb 1st, for others it was money, or drive fast. Both of those two friends did what they wanted, then came back to me to go climbing before going on with life.

Why I drifted .?? Why Nottingham might be ? if its my swan song to?

When the machine warms up it throws those typos in & I leave them

All together say Ahmen
okay back to ztopszsportz, ztops ball sportz, ztopsports?
Anyone or all of um was ball sports tried for my life to get away from thum. . .

Ice climber
Jul 10, 2016 - 07:41am PT
Serena's good friend BW - obligatory headband shot. No bullets were used in the creation of this image. Notice that Ray J Johnson is [attempting] defense. Notice also that RJ apparently does not know his wrist from his forehead.

Ray KJ. in his prime.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Ice climber
Jul 10, 2016 - 08:06am PT
Larry Brown (no true relation, but I did meet him once)

has resigned as head coach at SMU after the university failed to offer Brown a long-term deal, according to CBS Sports.

Was there academic fraud? Likely.

SMU basketball coach Larry Brown is not a despicable, disgraceful cheater. The headlines will tell you that he is, with most columnists screaming that he’s left every school on his college basketball resume saddled with NCAA sanctions due to major rules infractions.

All of the articles calling for his firing that have surfaced over the last few days have been predictable. They all point out that after leading UCLA to the 1980 national championship game, in his first year as a major college coach by the way, Brown bolted a year later to take the head job with the NBA’s New Jersey Nets.

Shortly thereafter, it was announced that UCLA’s Final Four and title game appearances would be vacated due to major NCAA infractions.


SMU And Larry Brown Get Punished Yet The NCAA Is Free To Lie And Steal

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 08:12am PT
Light beer. That's just perfec.

"'Leave it to Beaver, Ward.' That's exactly what you said, June."

If the synch don't work then I'm wearing it.

I finished this ten minutes ago.

Thanks to the modern-day miracle of the synch, responsible for so-o-o much zen stuff goin' on hereabouts.

My offering for the basketball junkies (you're welcome, Mr. Carroll) who've got to 'settle' for WNBA. And whatever kinda stuff's happenin' to amuse and provoke the soccer hooligantry.

Three-Ringer Circus

A Mouse named Tom and a Cat named Jerry
Were jolly good chums with a Bird called Larry

They were point guard, a forward and a short center
In a three-man tournament at the rec center

That Mouse could dribble and that Cat could shoot
And the bird was an owl who didn’t give a hoot

Their object in each game was simply havin’ fun
And all three dudes just loved to run and gun

If they made a shot or if they didn’t, swell.
Results are a consequence of what, just who can tell?

They won a few games last year but lost more overall
Under fifty for the season beginning last fall.

They took up climbing as a team in Yosemite
They found the same thing applied, whether aid or free.

They climbed along and they sang "Amen,"
With a yodel-dee thrown in now and then.

As a team they climbed quite well,
Never finding nirvana, but never finding hell.

They’d heard this from Coach Jackson, who said it way back when,
“You want a way to win the game? Meditate and zen.”

Then Michael Jordan told them and this is just no sh#t,
"It’s in the shoes, you’ll never lose. Go out there and just do it."

[Click to View YouTube Video]
"Five-tennsies, anyone?"
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 08:32am PT
All together now...

Pause here ten seconds for the official mixed message.
Proceed, good gentles.
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Yeasayer - I Am Chemistry
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 09:44am PT
Yeasayer - Wait for Summer

Never, not in David Bowie's Wildest Dream,
nor in Bob Dylan's vast number of dreams,
but only in my dreams.

A Lunar Colloquy

Racket J. Squirrel: "Did you know that RabbitHole came up with the idea for this whole gig?"
MooseWinkle: "You sure it wasn't BrokeDownAstroMan? Or Klammor?"
RJS: "No. I heard it through the grapevine."
MW: "That's a long-ass grapevine."
RJS: "We're out of Cheetos."
MW: "We got to find more."
RJS: "What's that off over there?"
MW: "There is an orange tinge to it. Let's get the Loony and go for a spin, shall we?"
RJS: "Yeah. Never know. Might need it."

And so the team found the largest cheetorite ever found in the solar system.

Believe it or not at your own risk.

MFM, with thanks to the players.


Hope yer fellin' OTAY!!!!

Yeasayer - 2080

New feature:

Flames Photo of the Week

There is no prize, only the recognition.
A token, I know, but this isn't exactly the Guggenheim Foundation.

The currently-burning Nederland Fire - by Edge,
cropped for effect and size.
Smokey the Elephant.

Nice job, Edge. Very, very nice.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Jul 10, 2016 - 11:16am PT
O faux Camalots ?
Is that what I have got?
No mine are older.....

I'm not very good at hi koos nor spelling it nieder nieder norder

Wall of slop in coming

I just saw your non- informational profile? ,?49 years old female?
I m not sure what to say? . . .Are you a nurse, by any chance?
Not that it matters. There is nothing wrong with that.
I want you to feel welcome climbing outdoors . . . . . . but restrictions?

Forced publication of climbs?....... I'm gonna be writing guide books when I get to the old folks home, so just wait for it.

Trying to get climbers to bolt responsibly is a Nobel goal
but you're more likely to make $50k herding cats.

I would like to hear from the community what they think are the responsibilities of those who bolt routes.
A recent trip to a local crag with mostly easy sport routes got me thinking about this.

( We were doing fine with out your input , so find another outdoor pursuit to wreck )

climbing at a very popular crag that has a half dozen or so 5.8s, several 5.9s, some 5.10s and two 5.11s.
All are fully bolted with the exception of one trad route (with one bolt high on the route).
Most people who go to this crag do not bring gear, and the crag attracts new climbers.
Most of the routes are listed in the newest guidebook; two new routes were added after the guidebook was published.
One of the routes is fully bolted and listed on MP.
The other route has no information (route setter did not submit it to MP).
I was with a small group and ran into a friend who was with some other people.
He leads around 5.9.
The crag was busy, and we saw this route that was not on MP,
and the party on it was about to pull the rope.
We asked them how hard the climb was and they told us it was around a 5.9.
My friend hops on it and starts up.
The route starts out low angle and then gets steeper at the top.
The anchor is not visible from the ground (unless you saw the rope hanging off it).
We had a 70m rope, so no problems there.
The issue was that it was somewhat run out on the lower angle area,
but had some gear placement opportunities that could not be seen from the ground.
What was worse was that on the steeper part at the top, there was ledge fall potential
to get to the next bolt,
but a cam would mitigate that - if you knew that there was a placement for it - and
had brought the right sized gear.
My partner did not want to risk an injury from a ledge fall and lowered.
Luckily, he had brought a rack, and I was able to place some gear and finish the route.

I understand that route setters use their own money to develop routes,
and I know a few that have gotten sick of the shitstorm that follows when they
submitted their route to MP, so they have stopped adding them to the database.

So what duty does the route setter have to the climbing community?

1. Caveat Emptor. If a beginner climber has to bail because they didn't know anything about the route, tough luck..

2. Route setter makes the route fully bolted and safe for a climber at the grade if gear placements can't be assessed from the ground (especially at a crag where all but one of the routes is fully bolted).

3. Submit the route on MP with the grade, length of rope needed, number of bolts, and gear sizes (optional or necessary), and make it a trad/sport route.

4. ??? What do you think?"

??That schuweperemadona??

How do you bake these things up 4 a troll I'll feed ya

Here is your challenge: except the responsibility for your actions.

Understand the rocket science, what are two cure for a life spent climbing?
Time and it's competitive force gravity

Do NOT LET GO - you will fall & Don't fall: if you LET GO you will

You wil let go you will fall
If you can't get over that - get over climbing

I know today no one wants to get hurt
& there has to be someone to blame.
Nothing is ever YOUR fault,

But you know you have been told :

Yer gonna die !

Climbing? Are you crazy?
You could get hurt!

if you have older parents or friends, may be ex military
who don't hold back
You've heard much worse.: The " I know a guy" stories. .

And then there are the accidents & the reports.

if you play with gravity, given enough time, it is all true & might happen to you.

You should Decide before the next time you go climbing outside :
1) if you think that it is worth the risk?

to offset the -all of the grid bolted-, overexposed, chalked up,
slicked out polished rock climbing areas.

I think some climbing zones should remain undocumented.

I'm very conflicted, about some of this, and after
Seeing a few of the oldest climbers change their minds
I have also come to embrace a strict accordance to the adventure ethic.
Particularly When talking about cragging in a 3 mile out & back
'popular moderate sport ' Areas.

the adventure ethic holds self-sufficiency and judgment as the core principles
have the skills to see rock , find it - explore & know how to climb safely
No beta then everyone gets a chance to experience the sense of exploration

I love climbing and want climbers to spread their wings and explore.
Safety & the impact of Crowding are greatest threats to access.
So some mandatory information needs to be made available.
Parking , access issues yes
move for move , gear lists?

I know the arguments .and have bad ankles so
I never want to carry more gear than I need to.

I understand it,
gather all the beta, get every advantage .
and I do that too.

all the internet information that can get you increased safety though knowledge
Shared from others is the greatest advancement in modern climbing.
so I know I see the hypocrisy.

But maybe not every ; roadside crag That is where you can cut your teeth,
learn by doing, 5 minutes from the car park, (safe beginner zones).
needs to be in the data base.
These areas are valuable, because of Where They Are.
a crowd may get them closed to climbing places like this
should have brief or no mention in the database .

When the very bare minimum, is all the beta,
I think it helps reinforce learning
and builds skills.

Really, All one should need is, the climb starts here and the subjective grade. .
there are X number of X long pitches,
with ? Or with out anchors,

The number of bolts? It's a rock climb, take what you need or deal with it.
if it's needs gear? . . . . . It is a climb it needs gear.
If It gets complicated to escape/decend ? . . . It is a climb. It needs skills

The idea is to provide information
A heads up if there are some safety issues
but not tell you everything destroying the adventure
Along with the most sound form of learning - though experience .

Grid bolted , 'popular' climbing areas are fun

but Some of us find higher value If there are no bolts,

We like it if all that there is to see is rock.
Many in the south can only see 30 feet up then trees block the view.

It is casting off into the unknown that we crave.

at some outdoor climbing zones, both at slab and steep areas,
falling is an art unto it self.

sliding or flying it is never what we want
but we want to know how to do it right to survive.

The way to learn that is to take strides up, fall,
get back on and send through the tears, & tiers.

Not always the best thing in public.

and at what you claim to be a sport you understand?
As hard as this is to grasp,
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 11:50am PT
Because, like life, sometimes this place is on the rag.

This House Is a Circus

This house is a circus, berserk as f*#k
We tend to see that as a perk though
Look what it's done to your friends, their memories are pretend
And the last thing that they want is for the feeling to end

There's a room full of trouble and there's lovers to be had
Those ones who make sinners out of such lovely lads
Scaling the corridors for maidens in the maze
And the anomaly is slipping into familiar ways

And we're forever unfulfilled
Can't think why
Like a search for murder clues
In dead man's eyes

The more you open your mouth
The more you're forcing performance
And all the attention is leading me to feel important
(Maybe I'm not just completely obnoxious)
Now that we're here, we may as well go too far

Wriggling around in it just so that you won't forget
There's certainly some venom in the looks that you collect
Aimlessly gazing at the faces in the queue
And we're struggling with the notion that it's life not film

This house is a circus, berserk as f*#k
(We're forever unfulfilled)
We tend to see that as a perk though
(Can't think why)
Look what it's done to your friends, their memories are pretend
(Like a search for murder clues)
And the last thing that they want is for the feeling to end
--Arctic Monkeys

In deep mourning over the last two poems bushman will ever pen.

I'll be willing to wager a bottle opener there are more odes, drivel, epics, and epigrams in that genie's bottle of his he keeps in a drawer.

Spycams, the latest innovation in The Synch.
Trying to keep an eye on your state of mind--hope ya dont' mind.

How's the diabetic doggie, bud?

And Cosmic with the Googly Eyes is probably watching, too.

"Go comb yur hair & wash up, boy.
Then come to the table.
We still love ya, poet's license or not. Ma, what's for dinner?"
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 11:53am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Ice climber
Jul 10, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
Can we get an Amen for Amen. Otay?

Please note: NO Pets and NO Smoking on the property; our family members have allergies.

I believe these were referred to as God's Eyes a long time ago, though not in Arkansas.


Ice climber
Jul 10, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
Topo de Otay via the secret (off-road) route.


The state of quantum flux
Jul 10, 2016 - 01:57pm PT

Gnome's Pome

Gnome of the Diabase
Has no time to waste
Answers to none
But his other post haste

We shall sing him a song
And we'll play him a tune
We will cry "Cheddar Cheese!!"
As we bay at the moon

We shall dig up a corpse
As an unholy deed
We'll do this for Gnome
Or whoever's in need

We'll partake of the heart
Or whatever's at stake
To save the whole tribe
From the ghoul in the lake

Now if you are fair game
Your own poem I shall write
Which could likely as not
Keep you up late at night

I'll write one for the pope
Or that Dali Lama dude
But the wife says Virgin Mary's
Off limits for good

So though Gnome has been classed
With some of the greats
A sacrifice is in order
If it isn't too late

mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
Is it gonna be Ahmen today, or is it gonna be Aymen today?

Is it gonna be Ay today, or is it gonna be Aye today, or Ay-Aye, or Aye-Ay.

Or whyn't just go for I and be done wif it?

All these questions.

What is the answer, Alex.

What is That is the question, Alex.


If it's a mystery, why ask why?

Or WTF, why not?

In that spirit, and since I have yet to finish the tale of Moss on the Falls,* I give you this.

I found it not by looking in the past, but thinking about the future.

A Reprint of an Article found in the files of I’m Wondering magazine, V.33, No. 4, April, 2110.

MEDITATIONS IN GREENJEANS: The Dedication to bushman’s Summits
by MFM from Merced

The Summits include a dedication to one "Mr.E". I feel it is safe to say that I may have discovered the answer to the question, “Who is Mr.E?”

The Dedication reads thus:

“To the only begetter of these ensuing songlets, Mr.E.
All happyness and that eternity promised by our ever-living poet wishes the well-wishing adventurer in setting forth.

The identity of this mystery person remains questionable; and, since the 21st century, has provoked a great deal of argument and speculation and even an indictment for libel of one scholar, Professor Felonius Mentirosa, for his vicious and unsubstantiated remarks in an article in Higher Times which criticized a rival, Dr. Rocky Raconteur of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland.

Dr. Rocky suggested in a work titled Mystery Climber that the person was a rock climber from Bishop who was known for nothing more than being the spouse of the much-acclaimed stained-glass artist usually known as Justine Skip. He lived at the exact moment in literary history to have been the publisher. His name is Eric Wolframite.

Wolframite wrote under several pseudonyms, Mr.E being his avatar on line at, a climbing website with one of the most active forums on the subject, with hundreds of thousands of registered members. That is one of his alter egos, actually. He was diagnosed by a psychologist before he died with schizophrenia.

Those are some of the facts in the matter. But who inspired bushman to write his opus, really?

This dank pit of speculation where one wallows and flounders in libel, contradiction, and calumny is a relatively well-known story. Infighing over this is spotty, but now and then someone fans the flames of the fire. Dr. Rocky’s revival of this ancient (by today’s standards, at any rate, when EVERY DAMN THING IS TRENDING) literary brouhaha, is important. We won’t know how important or what it means to climbers, anyway, until it’s all been nattered over on supertopo.

It is interesting to note the similarity between supertopo and this Tempest in a Billy Can (nod to the Bard, Shakespeare, that is, not Phil, nor Dale nor Allen). Nobody decides anything, “it’s all” rude comments spiced with some personal experience totally unrelated to the topic, dire warnings of impending death (plus never enough photos to satisfy me) mixed in with meaningful discussion and the occasional thoughtful insight.

Not meaning to digress, but unable to resist, I must say that it is interesting to note that none of the Bard Boys wrote poetry, at least that I personally know about. But, Ho, Man! If they HAD versified—Ho, Man!

In researching this in-depth online article (How oxymoronic do you have to be to get a laugh?), I happened on a topic on the supertopo forum called The Flames. I began reading (took for fecking ever!) and found Mr.E had responded to a poem published by bushman.

He didn’t like it and said it sucked. (That still means it sucked—some words are perfect and never change meaning over time.) Then he called him a closet Trumpie and all hell broke loose. It took weeks to repair the breach, but they remained friendly. Part of bushman’s fame is that he loved to forgive others who had once pissed him off or pissed on him. He’s legendary, in fact. All the slander and innuendo about sheep is perhaps left for later discussion, since it’s off-topic.

From further interaction between the two, on other topics on other threads, the differences between bushman and Mr.E faded and were forgotten/forgiven, whatever.

Not that peace reigned over supertopo (that would take all the fun out of it), but at least this gives credence to the idea that Mr.E was a begetter, whatever that means.

Many of the works in The Summits first appeared there on that Flames thread, I found. They are mostly the same versions as appear in The Summits, but there are also many revisions and other changes. This is to be expected from such a master of the craft. Nonetheless, it gives perspective to read the virgin copies. Know what I mean? Or in the vernacular of the supertopo forum of the day, “Nawmean?” Wink wink, nudge nudge.

Mr.E’s response to the poem was such that I must conclude that he was an untitled everyman. He also suggests that he is “the only begetter” of bushman’s The Summits.

So there you have it. I think this may prove that Mr.E was an average man of his times except for his love of risky ventures like rock climbing, which he shared with his redoubtable wife, Justine Skip, who went with the avatar JTM on line. It was said she climbed better than he, but you didn’t hear that from me.

I’m not sure what is meant, specifically, by the term “begetter.” Choose a meaning and get back to me in the morning.

Songlet 66, “You didn’t lock the sheepfold gate, my darling,” is one of my personal favorites of all the songlets in The Summits. There are 1,554 songlets total.

This is prolific output and likely demanded much of bushman’s time. He in fact says so in My Last Poem #99, “Recidivist.”

"My lunch-time is prime time to wander the trails
Stolen moment in the shade of the reverie tree
But never enough to satisfy me."

The Summits, consisting of Songlets and Last Poems, is as entertaining as poetry ever gets. And the sheer volume of poems is staggering.

Thank the Muse that bushman bothered to number his works. What genius!

*I have found that writing the last installment of this tale of Moss is like anticipation of something coming--you want it but you know that the titillation is a big part of an expected event. It's like sex. There are other examples, but that's the first one that popped into your mind, isn't it, you naughty reader? So this could be later on in the week. Or I may have to wake up in bed to do it.

The state of quantum flux
Jul 10, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
Mouse that post, although pretty out there, seriously put a smile on my face.

Looking foreword to more of Mouse's meritorious Moss meanderings.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 02:19pm PT
It's nice to know that we have the rest of the day to get something done.

Or do we?

Fate will decide.

Coyote waits.
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