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hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Nov 4, 2017 - 07:27pm PT
spent some time in tecate's ^^^ plaza, waiting for a bus to la rumarosa. chose to solo jaunt for a
week revisiting canon tajo while the dreaded sis in law was in town and we were down to one car
zBrown

Ice climber
Nov 4, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
Just an eZ right / left turn offHwy 94 coming to / leaving campo

camp Lockett campo




Don't fence us in?

https://img.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_480w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2016/06/17/Travel/Images/CampoWP1466190670.jpg?uuid=Q7aOoDS_EearnR2isPJPkw
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2017 - 09:36pm PT
There's a broken cloud cloud cover and a nearly full moon tonight, ill-suited to border running.
Just stuck the camera out the window, focused on a light across the street, set the lens switch to manual focus,
and held the rig steady against the window ledge (not quite as good as a tripod, but it's just an ad hoc deal)
long enough for the slower speed to open and shut the thingamabob.

I'm too tired to go out on the fire escape tonight with the whole shebang, though,
so I'm watching Michael Caine in Shock To the System instead.

Drifting and drifting...like a ship upon the sea of mental images I was dreaming among a few minutes ago
after passing out from a meal of carnitas, rice, beans, and a HUGE milkshake made with Mexican ice cream,
the first shake I have had in years, I think, meaning a real shake made with a real shake making machine
and using real (chocolate in this case) ice cream, not some frozen milk product squozen from a nozzle
in a fast food joint by a kid who'll (who knows?) be my/your kid's boss someday,
which is sorta the theme of Shock To the System.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 12:33am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]I like the best in open countryside, close to the sea, I want to live,
a few months a year so that the soul can get calm.
I like the best in open countryside, where the winds are gaining momentum.
Where the lizards go high in the sky, and sing well.
There I burn my own brand, and season with St. John's wort,
and drink it with pleasure, to herring and homemade wort.
I like the best in open countryside, close to the sea, I want to live.
I like the best in peace and freedom, for both body and soul,
no one comes into my presence, which closes and steals.
et cetera...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 03:20am PT
Date to be announced later, when we've got sponsors and a venue lined up.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 03:43am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
http://www.wfuv.org/content/poetry-song-0
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 03:46am PT


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 04:06am PT
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 06:25am PT
Gray cloud cover this morning over the distant Sierras (including Gray Peak) from my studio window.


The only thing left in the room was Death
hiding beneath the kitchen sink:
"I'm not real!" it cried
"I'm just a rumor spread by life..."
Laughing I threw it out, kitchen sink and all
and suddenly realized Humor
was all that was left--
All I could do with Humor was to say:
"Out the window with the window!"
--Gregory Corso, The Whole Mess...Almost

Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Nov 5, 2017 - 06:48am PT
Undomesticated

With the common house badger
Breakfast consumed requires a pre walk belly rub
Many bites and claw marks later
we stroll the trail around the lake
"Good morning Mrs Dallywinkle."
"Good morning Mr Crape."
Badger sniffs at the hem of her skirt
as she walks in the opposite direction
But pays no attention
to her large kangaroo on a leash

-bushman

Drinking with Jack

In the last couple years of my drinking
Culminating in the summer of '89
Though I read most of his published work
And some of Corso and Ferlinghetti
I tried to keep up with Kerouac's pace
Of liquid imbibement
I was not so fortified
As to follow him into death

-b
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 08:22am PT
Take That, Kerouac

1989

JK was twenty years gone by then
Had gone through life like a whirlwind

Had spared no ones feelings
But never had an intimacy with a badger

Possibly could have manteled the Little Columbia boulder
Might have been intrigued more with the Wine boulder

Probably knew next to nothing about limbing a tree
But from football days knew how to throw a block and tackle

Fancied himself a writer who diddled around with poetry
Knew the Buddha who became a big fan of his diddling

Read the funny papers regularly
But never posted to ST nor registered with Goodreads

I've been wondering if he knew or cared about the moon landing
And how he might feel about humans voyaging out into space where there are no roads
--MFM


Have a good day, Tim et alliya!
zBrown

Ice climber
Nov 5, 2017 - 09:32am PT




It's had a pretty good run. The food is not very good.


Does have the Barrett Junction skate off

[Click to View YouTube Video]





Some don't just take it lying down


Italian version of retired shrimp boat captain and guitar thief



Y'all come back, here/hear?



zBrown

Ice climber
Nov 5, 2017 - 09:51am PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]

[Click to View YouTube Video]


zBrown

Ice climber
Nov 5, 2017 - 10:11am PT



zBrown

Ice climber
Nov 5, 2017 - 11:27am PT
fergit about them milkshakes. golden turmeric paste is the only way to go

1/2 cup (125 mls/60gms) turmeric powder.
1 cup water (250 mls) PLUS 1 cup water in reserve, if needed.
1/3 cup (70 mls) one of the following oils: Raw (unrefined) Cold Pressed Coconut Oil, Linseed (flaxseed) oil or Virgin/Extra Virgin Olive Oil.
2-3 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper.

The olive oil and pepper (piperine) dramatically improves the body's uptake of the curcumin.



Abstract
Encapsulation in lipid particles is often proposed as a solution to improve curcumin bioavailability. This bioactive molecule has low water solubility and rapidly degrades during digestion. In the present study, the uptake of curcumin from oil in water emulsions, prepared with two different emulsifiers, Tween 20 and Poloxamer 407, was investigated to determine the effect of interfacial composition on absorption. Piperine was added to the curcumin to limit the degradation of curcumin because it is known to inhibit β-glucuronidase activity. The emulsions were administered to Caco-2 cell cultures, which is used as a model for intestinal uptake, and the recovery of curcumin was measured. The curcumin uptake was significantly affected by the type of interface, and the extent of curcumin uptake improved significantly by piperine addition only in the case of oil-in-water emulsions stabilized by Poloxamer 407. This work provides further evidence of the importance of interfacial composition on the delivery of bioactives.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 01:10pm PT
Reserved as I am, I wasn't going to "bring up" the fact that my digestive health has suffered since, whether from the carnitas or the shake.

But now that you have, I must speak on it:
because of much down time spent sitting [sic] on my personal El Trono Grande, experiencing excessive writhing intestinal activity accompanied by outright "pains in the yass" lead me to the conclusion I may have been poisoned by la comida de Las Palmas.

Ora proboscis.

"And so, back to bed!"
--Pepys, "Night Soil"

hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Nov 5, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
shalane flanagan! what a NYC Marathon performance ... first american woman to win the thing in forty years ... 36yo ... nice! nice! nice!

http://www.nytimes.com/2017/11/05/sports/shalane-flanagan.html
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Nov 5, 2017 - 02:10pm PT
I have posted a lengthy climbing poem/fable on the poetry thread and will post it here as promised.

Mouse get that lime outa the coconut, friend!

PS
Congrats Brian, on your Flames thread running 13,500 and counting...
Proud work!
Bushman

climber
The state of quantum flux
Nov 5, 2017 - 02:36pm PT

I hope it's not too soon for this one...

The Razor of the Great Heart Flake

Many walls ago
There once was a man
Who came from way south of Yucatán
The mightiest chieftain
Of his great clan
To bag the big walls was his goal and his plan

Well he almost bailed
From old Mt Conness
But finished with style and the greatest finesse
And was first to nail
With style and grace
A route missing now on Half Dome's Northwest Face

'Twas long before
The age of steel
When the men ate nettles for their every meal
They climbed the cliffs
With wooden spikes
Rotted with termites to their dislike

Their ropes were all woven
From maidens hair
And they climbed mostly free with the utmost of care
And they dared not to fall
For the pro was all bad
And their iron grip was most ironclad

But the El Cap routes
Though none went free
Were expanding and dangerous as they could be
And the southwest face
Had the boldest lines
Where a first ascent might prove most sublime

Here sat the fiercest
Down hanging flake
From Mammoth on up with no ledge to make
For eight hundred feet
A continuous test
Of expanding bombay without any rest

Above this great cleaver
The cracks looked quite sound
Where keys to the summit might surely be found
But the huge expander
Named the Great Heart Flake
Was a perilous difficult route to take

So the Chieftain trained
For many months on end
When the route became dry then the climb began
The lower slabs
Went with minimal aid
Arriving at Mammoth without accolade

His good partner by
The name of Crag
Had their secret weapon in a big haul bag
Two fine spun lengths of
Nine hundred foot rope
Were flaked out on Mammoth with all faith and hope

A continuous lead
With minimal pro
Up the the perilous flake if it ever would go
At five eleven plus
It would be the only way
Making all other routes like a leisure holiday

The Chieftain set out
With the mightiest of racks
Of many wooden pegs slung below his back
With fifty foot run outs
Between every peg
He was loath then to suffer with the Elvis Leg

On the lead of his life
He did the chicken wing hop
'Twas slickest technique to avoid the great chop
As he tapped in each peg
As if on a dare
In the massive expander with most loving care

The chimney narrowed down
To an offwidth hang
And was finally barred by a loose granite fang
Where the Chieftain swung out
And he layed it away
As the story now goes many years to the day

At that greasy lieback
On a quivering shard
At forty feet out the climb got way hard
The Chieftain freed higher
'Till his strength gave out
And he tapped in a peg as he started to shout

The flake quivered once
Then it settled to a groan
So he slotted his pegs just to quiet the moan
The last forty feet
Went aid five to a ledge
Where the towering flake hung by only a wedge

The haul line hung free
And when Chief hauled the bag
It nary would touch and it nary would drag
Pulling pegs with a tug
Crag cleaned the whole pitch
And swung ever so gently o'er Yosemite ditch

The Chieftain was nervous
And took the next lead
Deciding to bivvy he fired up some weed
As Crag cleaned away
The chief quenched his thirst
As he tapped a cold lager now only his first

As the bottle cap fell
It hit once and twirled
With the oddest vibration it arced and it curled
And just below Crag
As he carefully cleaned
The bottle cap struck as it wildly careened

A strange echoing noise
Sounded off the Cathedrals
As the party hung high in their airy dihedral
Then a small crack appeared
Atop the huge flake
With an audible grinding it started to break

The climbers looked down
Their mouths all agape
Both faces affixed in a silent scream shape
Below the flake pivoted
Slow-mo like a dream
Building momentum it fell and gained steam

The massive flake dropped
With a thunderous clap
Exploding in clouds on the slabs of El Cap
Thirty five million tons
Of boulderous debri
Plummeting out as it once more fell free

And it peppered the ground
It mowed down great trees
With nowhere to go people dropped to their knees
But the meadow was spared
As the clouds of dust cleared
No folks were below nor was anyone near

But two climbers in shock
Hung two thousand feet up
Their retreat was now missing and full was their cup
They climbed through the nights
And slept in short fits
Hanging in their slings with no option to quit

They topped out in a storm
At the end of day five
Hiking to Tamarack still glad to be alive
On return to the valley
To Camp Four in the dark
All the campers were missing not even a lark

In the morning they rose
And packed up their canoe
With no mojo left it was all they could do
As they rowed the Merced
Through that valley of bliss
Any climbers who saw them would let out a hiss

And they paused by the meadow
Seeing they never could brag
For the greatest disservice to the mightiest of crags
Once the loveliest of flakes
Formed the shape of a heart
'Twas now rendered asunder and ruptured apart

So the Chieftain and Crag
Slunk on back to their craft
No climbers bade farewell nor stifled a laugh
Though they might have been famous
And proud to a man
When the Great Heart Flake fell out of El Capitan

-Tim Sorenson
11/05/2015

moving on...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
Tim, that was a fine opiss that touched my own heart deep. Way to hang in there and "go Marathonic" on us. But length is relative to the story, ain't it? And El Cap routes can be lengthy, as is well-known.

Congratulations in a manly manner, no firkin Facebook balloons and confetti, just an embrace and a peck on each cheek, okay?

It may become a classic. If it do, be prepared for fame: there is often a price.

One or two technical questions:
If there's just one precious long maiden-hair rope, how can it be that a haul bag is being hauled while Crag is cleaning? Invisible rope must be cheap.

And I forget the other question that occurred to me, but I feel like a gray cloud has lifted, all told.

See, I called the VA's medical advice nurse and she tole me de same ting, to put de lime in de coconut, drink it all up, call her in de mo'nin' and she tell me what to do.

She said her name was Shalane.

I think she was pullin' a fast one, though.
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