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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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In case it helps, from a 1989 trip report:
We then hiked out to Voyager Dome, where we tried to climb a variation
to V'ger. We got 2 good pitches, then it became very steep friction
where neither of us could reach the next bolt. Years later I found out
that David Rubine and Randy Vogel bolted this route on rappel without
toproping it first, and then to their surprise were not able to free
climb it....
[This incident probably helped motivate David to become a firm believer and advocate of ground-up climbing,
as he did 'em all that way in his Pinnacles years].
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
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Thanks Stephen for your work on this...Hey Scott read the draft I sent you and comment to my email...and write something too!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Look forward to seeing your guide Dwight. Some of my best days climbing were at Courtright, thanks.
lars
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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I want to climb there again. Maybe someday. Looking forward to seeing your guide.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Double D on the cover! Moooooch!
Very cool project, I will pick one up.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
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Sorry-Two Shoes, the order of glow in the dark whistles got highjacked, but were offering a discount on climbing resoles if you don't touch a bolt, hang or spew on anything greater than .12b...you in?
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jan 11, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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So funny I almost forgot to laugh!
Those are some really cute boulders you got in your lens Dwight! They're styling.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jan 11, 2015 - 07:49pm PT
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Way to go Dwight!
Can't wait to see the entire project put together!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jan 25, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
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Clint,
Did you mean the unrated route Klingon on Voyager? The Moser guide has Todd Vogel, not Randy Vogel with Rubine.
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Apr 27, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
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Is the new Courtright guide available yet? I hear Courtright is already open this year as of last weekend.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 27, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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WooHoo!!
Courtright guide fist pump!!!
where's the link?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 27, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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We then hiked out to Voyager Dome, where we tried to climb a variation to V'ger. We got 2 good pitches, then it became very steep friction
where neither of us could reach the next bolt. Years later I found out
that David Rubine and Randy Vogel bolted this route on rappel without
toproping it first, and then to their surprise were not able to free
climb it....
The old guide calls it Klingon. I climbed it in about 1988. Took a bunch of falls, came back and did it. At the time it was probably the hardest thin face climbing I had ever done. Probably would not have done it were the draws no already placed on my first attempt.
No clue what to grade it. Much harder than Seamstress and way more sustained.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 10:54pm PT
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Okay, so Allison Monroe (book designer) is on the case!...She wrapped up Chris Solem's Needles Guide (due out this month) and is boring into Courtright!...shit howdy!
She's a star and I'm very happy with the drafts.
Hopefully Christmas!?
I'm still so awed by this place and the routes there!
Give Kevin a thumbs up to git this out...dwight
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:31am PT
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Go Allison!!! Can't wait for this. Chomping for Kris' Needles Guide too.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:47am PT
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Chris Solem's Needles Guide (due out this month)
Updated info on the publisher's site says delayed until October.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 24, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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Allison is a great designer.
I hadn't heard about the delay. Hopefully the place won't all be ashes by then.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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Mooch's shot is way over tilted the cams are dragging on the rock same as his belay device hanging from his belay loop dragging on the rock. lololol
Still a nice shot.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:11am PT
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I look forward to its arrival, Dwight. I am lucky enough to have purchased the old guide when it was out, but I anxiously await the chance to get the new. And, like Kris, I'm hoping the vegatation still includes trees then.
John
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