Discussion Topic |
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 5, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
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Free at last, free at last, God almighty, free at last!
Thanks to the many who have made this project possible. The draft is scheduled to go to K. Daniels at the end of January after five years of work. Thank you everyone who has helped on this project. Many of you are old friends...many are new friends and many seem like old friends I have yet to meet...but all of you are stars. Thanks for all of your support
I hope that this guide does justice to this great place...there are others who should have written this guide...I hope this thing honors your private utopia. We did win that cosmic lottery getting to climb here when we did! ...And there will be more great routes and experiences in the future that will touch those next visitors...right?! sh#t howdy YEAH!
Any last minute projects from 2014..git it in.
regards and thanks, d.
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Dwight, thanks for your work in putting it together! How can we get our hands on a copy?
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greyghost
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Dwight,
thanks for the tireless work. I frankly thought it would never end. smile.
Put me in for a copy. I want to go there this summer. Last summer (2014) was full of car accidents and other bull sh#t.
Way to go !
Tom Beck
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2015 - 09:49pm PT
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Well, it goes to K. Daniels by Feb, 1. At that point...it is in the hands of those publishing artists. The sample drafts I've seen are beautiful...but it undoubtedly will be some work to put it all together. Stay tuned.
So having fun at Bishop etc.? What a great place!
regards, d.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Cool beans!
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Looking forward to the new guide! Yes, still having fun out at Bishop Peak. There's even some recent development there too.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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truly inspiring!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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eager to order!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Very nice, thank you for the tons of work.
Saving up my coins so I can get a copy .
Heck Ya.
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rincon
Trad climber
Coarsegold
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Dave Daley as the covershot. Go mooch!
That's a steep climb or some serious camera tilt!
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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But, Dwight, as I understand it. Courtright Res. is not all you get. There is more, correct? And this is going to be the first 3-D climbing guide book, with glasses, in history, correct? Do I have all of this right?
And, is that all for $19.95 + S&H? But, as I understand, that is not all you get? Tell us more, please!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2015 - 09:02am PT
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Yes, it also comes with a built in roach clip and P.G&E badge!
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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What happen to the glow in the dark whistle?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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POWER HOUSE!!!!
Mooch is now famous.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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YES! Eager and credit card in hand!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Double D!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Proud. Blood, sweat and publishing ink. Thank you Dwight!
It was my best Ammon face....arrrrg! ;)
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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I'm almost done with a short bit on history and stories about the history for the guide. Shoot me a personal message if you have tidbits about the history, stories, who did a lot of climbing when, or whatever that I might not have yet. It's fun to hear and I'll put in what I can. ASAP, please.
Thanks,
Stephen
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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awwwwwwwwwwYYYYYEAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH!
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Loomis
climber
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Where's Courtright?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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In case it helps, from a 1989 trip report:
We then hiked out to Voyager Dome, where we tried to climb a variation
to V'ger. We got 2 good pitches, then it became very steep friction
where neither of us could reach the next bolt. Years later I found out
that David Rubine and Randy Vogel bolted this route on rappel without
toproping it first, and then to their surprise were not able to free
climb it....
[This incident probably helped motivate David to become a firm believer and advocate of ground-up climbing,
as he did 'em all that way in his Pinnacles years].
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 04:35pm PT
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Thanks Stephen for your work on this...Hey Scott read the draft I sent you and comment to my email...and write something too!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Look forward to seeing your guide Dwight. Some of my best days climbing were at Courtright, thanks.
lars
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Nick
climber
portland, Oregon
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I want to climb there again. Maybe someday. Looking forward to seeing your guide.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Double D on the cover! Moooooch!
Very cool project, I will pick one up.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2015 - 10:18pm PT
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2015 - 04:20pm PT
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Sorry-Two Shoes, the order of glow in the dark whistles got highjacked, but were offering a discount on climbing resoles if you don't touch a bolt, hang or spew on anything greater than .12b...you in?
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jan 11, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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So funny I almost forgot to laugh!
Those are some really cute boulders you got in your lens Dwight! They're styling.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jan 11, 2015 - 07:49pm PT
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Way to go Dwight!
Can't wait to see the entire project put together!
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Jan 25, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
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Clint,
Did you mean the unrated route Klingon on Voyager? The Moser guide has Todd Vogel, not Randy Vogel with Rubine.
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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Apr 27, 2015 - 01:48pm PT
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Is the new Courtright guide available yet? I hear Courtright is already open this year as of last weekend.
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Apr 27, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
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WooHoo!!
Courtright guide fist pump!!!
where's the link?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 27, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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We then hiked out to Voyager Dome, where we tried to climb a variation to V'ger. We got 2 good pitches, then it became very steep friction
where neither of us could reach the next bolt. Years later I found out
that David Rubine and Randy Vogel bolted this route on rappel without
toproping it first, and then to their surprise were not able to free
climb it....
The old guide calls it Klingon. I climbed it in about 1988. Took a bunch of falls, came back and did it. At the time it was probably the hardest thin face climbing I had ever done. Probably would not have done it were the draws no already placed on my first attempt.
No clue what to grade it. Much harder than Seamstress and way more sustained.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 10:54pm PT
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Okay, so Allison Monroe (book designer) is on the case!...She wrapped up Chris Solem's Needles Guide (due out this month) and is boring into Courtright!...shit howdy!
She's a star and I'm very happy with the drafts.
Hopefully Christmas!?
I'm still so awed by this place and the routes there!
Give Kevin a thumbs up to git this out...dwight
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:31am PT
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Go Allison!!! Can't wait for this. Chomping for Kris' Needles Guide too.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Aug 24, 2016 - 08:47am PT
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Chris Solem's Needles Guide (due out this month)
Updated info on the publisher's site says delayed until October.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 24, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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Allison is a great designer.
I hadn't heard about the delay. Hopefully the place won't all be ashes by then.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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Mooch's shot is way over tilted the cams are dragging on the rock same as his belay device hanging from his belay loop dragging on the rock. lololol
Still a nice shot.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 24, 2016 - 11:11am PT
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I look forward to its arrival, Dwight. I am lucky enough to have purchased the old guide when it was out, but I anxiously await the chance to get the new. And, like Kris, I'm hoping the vegatation still includes trees then.
John
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Aug 24, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Great to hear Dwight. I know its going to be really good based on what I have seen already! Heard Trump was going to be putting in a casino up on the lake next year??
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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what's the latest? Close?
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Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
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I second the interest in the latest news...?
FYI, Dwight currently has a 'Cliff Notes' version of the guide available for a few bucks. I ran into him there and picked up a copy. It folds out like a map and is made of waterproof plasticized paper. There's quite a bit of detail on it and it includes all sides of Power Dome, Trapper Dome, Tiger Wall, Tiger Cage, Penstemon Dome, Dusy Dome, Voyager Dome, and a map of the area.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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So Mooch's cams always drag on them rocks from what I've heard...let's memorialize em! Or just turn that guide 90 degrees to feel better.
Okay, so Allison sez she's got the draft together and sending tomorrow for a review!...whew!
Never met her personally, but what a star!
Don't know when it will be out but getting close.
Thanks all for the big help on the project....d.
...oh and big congrats to Kris on getting the Needles Guide done!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 30, 2016 - 09:09am PT
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Thanks for getting this guide done....
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Sep 30, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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I'm going to Courtright next week with climbrunride. Any way I could get one before,or on the way? I'll be driving right through Prather on the way. Thanks-lars
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Nanobody
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Sep 30, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
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You can buy the mini-guide in Fresno at the Climbing gym (MetalMark)
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2016 - 10:59am PT
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Also Cressman's Store at the top of the fourlane has the Courtright and Shaver Lake "Cliff Notes"
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climbrunride
Sport climber
Golf Wall, CO
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I forgot to pack my old guidebook. OOPS! I hope Lars and I can at least get the mini guide.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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I've got the Vernon guide Marty but we'll definitely stop at the store for the mini guide. Thanks Fly-lars
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msiddens
Trad climber
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I'd buy the book as soon as it was made available to order!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jan 17, 2017 - 02:50pm PT
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Yes, cams are a draggin'! The shot was positioned (right rotation) to provide more depth of field. Randy can speak for himself, since he took the shot and gets kudos and credit for it. As I recall, I was trying to position my left foot to crank on a small edge. The cams swung to the inside. Thanks again, Dwight, for all your hard work!!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
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Well, it's with Kevin Daniels and we're trying to figure out how to attach the removable waterproof pocket guide. It may not work, we'll see but hopeful that the guide will be printed and out for spring gate opening at Courtright. It's been an adventure but I think the book turned out good. We'll see, seems I always catch errors once one of these things is printed.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 23, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
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Killer.... thanks for the hard- hard work... this is another much anticipated Guide Book.
So that's three in one year (almost) we get a new Needles, a New Cochise and now a New Courtright.
and don't worry about any errors.... nothing is perfect. Just as long as you spelled my name correctly. :>)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 23, 2017 - 03:43pm PT
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Just as long as you spelled my name correctly. :>)
No worries, I made sure he has it right: Guy Kiesei
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jan 25, 2017 - 07:09am PT
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Dwight is all about formalities, Kristopher.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 25, 2017 - 08:53am PT
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No worries, I made sure he has it right: Guy Kiesei
Kris... you know its KEZY or is it Kessi or Keyze???
Just as long as you don't call me Bro, Dude!!!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 25, 2017 - 09:54am PT
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Hi, Jeremy.... Happy New Year. Hope to see you at Shuteye-- more this year... I can hike again!!
I have some new verses.... all to "Straight out o Compton"
When I go road trippin
I come to your craig
Flash your project
and
F*%K your Girlfriend
F*%K your Girlfriend
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 25, 2017 - 10:00am PT
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Thread drift....man how good is Marc Marquez??
He is good... this season is looking to be one of the best ever... looking fwd to it.
Talk of a TRIP to Texas to watch The US MOTO GP.. ill let ya know when its shaping up.
How is your ARM?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jan 25, 2017 - 11:34am PT
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Watch it there Guy or I might have to post up the Kodiak lyrics.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 25, 2017 - 02:34pm PT
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Justin is the one w the bum arm, but he's done milking it. He's climbing again!
Ooopse... I have a problem with names and faces of almost twins... like you two.... just ask AJ or Spenser.
Its good to know he is getting better... not being to comb your hair, lift your arm or get handcuffed sucks.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jan 26, 2017 - 12:34pm PT
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Not that it's going to affect whether or not I buy this (I am), but is there an estimated MSRP?
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jan 26, 2017 - 05:40pm PT
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Yes Sir, still a nice photo!
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Jan 26, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
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MSRP LOL, Buy the book to help the tribe. This book will be like the first and second, you will with you owned them. Flashback of vintage josh guide books, now every one wishes they still had them.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jan 26, 2017 - 08:01pm PT
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?? Did you read my whole post? I specifically said I'm buying it regardless. But I still wouldn't mind a ball park figure.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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Hey you related to Ken Kesey? Sometimes there's a Great Notion to fly over that Cuckoo's Nest...d.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Feb 18, 2017 - 08:15pm PT
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bump
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2017 - 08:31pm PT
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Okay...It's with the publisher...for the past year(s). Please let Kevin D. know that this needs to come out before I die of old age...cuz, I'm turning 60 this year...sh#t, I'm old!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 20, 2017 - 11:05am PT
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Turning 60 this year?!!! Dude, I did that last year and I do not feel any different.
I have never been to Courtright, but I have been to court alright (CHP ticket I fought and won, back in 1982).
Dang, one of the things I miss most about my native California is how much rock is there. Even the Pinnacles look good from my view (though I have yet to be to Fairhead, some good climbing there for Ireland).
Good luck with the guide. If I ever make it back to the West Side (I will), I'll buy the guide and visit Courtright (it looks like a real cool place). Best wishes, Paddy
EDIT
Hey Dingus, is there a guide to 108? There is some good rock there, along 108, on the road to Donnells Reservoir, at Donnells (as the late Brutus would know, and I believe you too DMT), and in the canyon below the reservoir (Middle Fork of the Stan), I should know, I put up some FAs back in the mid-1970s that will probably never be recognised. Oh well, c'est la vie.
Even Crystal Falls has a couple of fun short routes.
So much rock (and ice) and so little time (and money).
You know, we talk of the East Side (with good reason), but the West side, from The Buttes to the Needles (if one considers the southern Sierra, west) there is a heck of a lot. Perhaps there is, but one guide to those areas (Calaveras Dome, 108, etc etc) might be a...
And it is not like these are secret areas, these places (like the late Carol Doda) are well known. I don't know, I sit here with (one) glass of wine, envying Cali rock and wondering why the hell I brought up Carol Doda? I never saw her but she is a SF 'legend' as is the West Side Rock.
Oops, my Freudian slip may be showing, and I don't even cross dress.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Feb 20, 2017 - 11:12am PT
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is there a guide to 108?
Yes. "Climber's Guide to the Sonora Pass Highway" by Brad Young (mtnyoung here, and author of the current Pinnacles guide) and Steve Dawson.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 20, 2017 - 11:24am PT
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Thanks Look Easy, I'll look for it, just out of curiosity. I was scouring (scouring? Don't you mean scouting Patrick? No, I was cleaning, scouring, new routes, but I never bothered to put my name to them, same as in Castle Crags, I put up several routes in Castle Crags, gardening them - scouring so to speak - from the munge, then read later that others put their names to my, and Steve Fish and my late brother Mac FAs) that area from 1974-1977. I cannot recall the guy's name at Sonora Mountaineering, help me, it was...???
You know, I never was Valley "pioneer" or FAist (one route, and it does not deserve describing), but did climb some FAs in Castle Crags in the early 1970s and 108 mid-70s. I never looked to record these things, it was just climbing and fun. But perhaps in hindsight, I should have left some "cannisters".
"Oh look, a nice clean crack and no munge nor pin scars, that must mean nobody has climbed it. We'll do the FA."
Yeah, I climbed clean (Mac put some of those bolts up on Mt Diablo rock, not I, but who is to question an older brother) and I hardly never left behind webbing or slings, so one would think they are doing the FA. I am not bitter, but some recognition would be nice for 108 and Castle Crags. I am not nor ever have going to lose sleep over it... maybe. No, except for this bitch on this thread, no.
But when one works a tail off to clean a climb and FA a route, and somebody else claims the FA after, it sort of rankles.
Which sort of reminds me about fortune and fame. What would one choose? As for me, fortune, I want no fame, not for my FAs, my writing or my music. Just give me the bloody money. I have bills to pay.
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Paul W
Trad climber
Visalia, CA
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Apr 10, 2017 - 03:03pm PT
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Any updates, Dwight? I saw a flyer at metalmark advertising a presentation by you and Kris Solem scheduled for May 5. Will the guide be available by then? I can't wait to get my hands on it, Courtright is the best!
Edit: seems to be available. I just ordered it and Kris' needles guide through k Daniels.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 10, 2017 - 05:12pm PT
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thx Powder
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2017 - 11:26pm PT
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The Courtright guide is getting printed right now somewhere in Korea and should make it here by the end of April...hopefully for some planned book signing events. While I'm anxious about getting it done, the publisher Kevin Daniels has done a great job in getting it all together and does a beautiful product...Solem's recent Needles guide as an example is awesome!
Thanks .all for your interest and support...both you and I look forward to seeing the book arrive. I hope you can make it to some of the book signing events...if not, pre-order through K. daniels publishing.
regards, dwight
P.S. this book could only have been done through the work and help of wonderful others, particularly Greg Vernon, Kris Solem, Herb Laeger, Barry Chambers, Scott Loomis, Vaino Kodas, John Barbella, John Gonzales, Stephen McCabe, Kenny Rose, Gary Sullivan, Randy Wenzel, Allison Monroe, Fred Beckey,Kevin Daniels.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Apr 13, 2017 - 08:55am PT
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Hey Dwight -
Finally gave Herb his "guide" last week ;)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 13, 2017 - 09:23am PT
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Hey you related to Ken Kesey? Sometimes there's a Great Notion to fly over that Cuckoo's Nest...d.
Most likely related in some way.... Keesee is the French way of spelling it... pronounced "key zee". Almost all of the Keesee's were run from France in the mid 1700... most made their way to America as indentured survants (slaves with a term limit) and settled in North Carolina and South Carolina..... most became proprietors of water powered mills. Its a common last name in the mid Atlantic states and Tennessee.
Like most weird names people spelled it differently in English to get it to sound right. Kesey is one way- Keyzee another. When I go to French speaking country they always get both of my names correct. I like that.
When my Dad retired he did the whole history deal, even went to a semi-annual Keesee famly reunion in Tennesse... lots of good folks came down from the hills.
I can not wait for me to get my hands on one of those guides...
Thanks for doing it.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2017 - 05:38pm PT
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....and we're all gonna sign Mooch's golden pants at the event!...or maybe we'll just sign Mooch...
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Apr 13, 2017 - 05:48pm PT
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Well shoot, ordered. Finally....
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Apr 24, 2017 - 08:25am PT
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Dwight -
Update on the arrival of the guidebooks?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 08:24pm PT
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Well....The good news is that North Korea didn't nuke the South Korean printer and the guides got printed. The bad is that they are now on a container ship and probably won't be in until late May.
However Mooch, I did get an advanced copy with you tearing it up on the front cover!
K. Daniels and Allison Monroe (the graphic artist) did an outstanding job and I'm really happy with the result.
So...the book signing in Fresno is off until I'm sure that they will arrive. Thanks for letting me steal your photographic soul...dwight
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 24, 2017 - 09:37pm PT
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SWEET!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 24, 2017 - 10:24pm PT
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Its not like the snow is going to let up quick enough to get into Courtright anyways. :)
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Apr 26, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
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Couldn't track down the loud orange Prana knickers for signing, Dwight. Sorry. Do Under Roo's work instead? I believe I had the Pirate version on that day......note the expression. Any chance that you're coming down to the Kernville slide show on the 20th? Drag Gerry Jessuran down too!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 26, 2017 - 09:01pm PT
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Oh Man, them pants would have made it at the Courtright 4th of July party...but I guess we could sign your chonees with or without you in them...your choice.
I'd love to come down on the 20th (May?) If I flew the hairplane into Kernville could I bike to the venue? and find a friendly backyard to crash out onto?
I feel real bad about not getting together with Chris for a Fresno show...he's been nothing but supportive on the Courtright thing.
Hey, don't go changing!...d.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Apr 27, 2017 - 08:29am PT
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Yep, May 20th. Dood......I'd come pick you up from the airport, if you'd like! The airport is about 2 miles south of town, so its totally doable to ride to town on your bike, if you wanted to do that. Also, I can offer you a place to stay. Not sure if Kris and Barb are using my house in Riverkern to stay at. But you'd be welcome to stay over with me and Erin, at her house (a few hundred stumbling yards from the brewery). In any respect, you'll be received with open arms, my good friend!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Apr 27, 2017 - 10:26am PT
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Niceeeeeeee
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2017 - 05:48pm PT
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I've always liked a brewery that is a few hundred stumbling yards from horizontal...would be fun...let me check in with the wife...d.
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Christopher Bersbach
Trad climber
Arroyo Grande
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May 20, 2017 - 08:42pm PT
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My copy arrived today, and it's a really wonderful looking guide. Can't wait to get up there this year and branch out a bit. Thanks for all the hard work, Dwight!
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2017 - 09:59pm PT
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Okay, the guide is out! Really happy with Kevin Daniels work!
So, as sometimes happens after pouring over the draft time and time again, I caught a "referencing" mistake in the Dusy Dome section after the book came out. The information is correct but a route was included in the descriptions (Solar Leap) that does not show in the topos or photo reference...So "Needle Dick" should be route "C", "Paradisio" should be route "D" etc.
This was my editing mistake and not the publishers. Mia Culpa, Mia Culpa, Mia Culpa...dwight
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 23, 2017 - 12:14am PT
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So the first route on the dome is excluded from the topo....Should of hit me up for a proof read Dwight! Steve and I named the dome after this FA.
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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May 23, 2017 - 01:17am PT
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Hey Al,
I went out to the dome twice last year and couldn't tell Dwight exactly where it went. Dwight and I went out there together. I should have taken binoculars. You and I third classed the dome to where we did a roped boulder leap (to a 10a finger lock?) to finish the climb, so it was kind of an odd route. I think I would have to go up to the little head wall and look for the move. I can't recall how difficult the stuff we third classed was. Stephen
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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May 23, 2017 - 09:03am PT
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Oh, so you pick one of my routes to screw up. I see how it is...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 23, 2017 - 11:09am PT
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Hi Stephen...We picked the most obvious line up the center of the face that could be done with minimal drilling. If I had a photo to look at I could draw it in...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 23, 2017 - 11:19am PT
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We rated Solar Leap 10b if I recall...named it after the infamous Lunar Leap on Lembert. Third classed much of the route....up to 5.7!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 23, 2017 - 06:39pm PT
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Whoa....runout, hard slab climbs! I don't have nearly enough brown climbing pants to climb there, many wardrobe changes would be necessary.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2017 - 08:58am PT
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Doing another slideshow and book signing at MetalMark Climbing Gym on Tuesday June 13. The REI show was so fun, particularly seeing McCabe, Chambers, Hall, Piterelli, Jessurun and Daly there!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 12, 2017 - 12:14pm PT
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Hey Dwight, are you able to get out to Courtright this weekend? Part of the Tribe is headed out there for a meet up. Would be a pleasant birthday surprise if you were able to. Trying to pull Stephen out to Shuteye the following weekend. Maybe you could consider that if you couldn't make it this weekend.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jun 12, 2017 - 04:24pm PT
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Hi Mooch,
I've talked to folks at Sierra Natl. Forest in Prather, just today in fact, and what they have heard, (since they do not plow the road but let it naturally melt), it may not be until later this month before the road opens. Their number is (559) 855-8355.
It would be a long drive for nothing.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jun 12, 2017 - 04:30pm PT
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Barry,
Thank you for checking on this for Mooch. I was wondering if the road was open yet given the snow I saw yesterday up in the Shuteye Ridge area. I hope it will be open by the beginning of July.
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 12, 2017 - 05:05pm PT
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Thanks Barry and Jeremy. I forgot about that number to the Prather office.
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Matt's
climber
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:05pm PT
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bump... just bought the guidebook-- had always wanted to go here, now I have a good excuse!
Do you know if this area is dog friendly?
best,
matt
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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Access to some crags may pose an issue due to the technical nature of getting to their bases. Being a dog owner myself, the Forest Service has been pretty cool about dogs. Pretty much the norm....just be a responsible dog owner, which I'm sure you are. :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:26pm PT
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My wife and I will be there Tuesday, looking forward to it!
Vitaliy and I were signed up for the REI show but didn't make it back in time from a climb so I'm happy to see I get a second chance!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 12, 2017 - 06:29pm PT
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Do you know if this area is dog friendly?
There's probably a "dogs on leash" rule in the fee campgrounds, but nowhere else. I've never seen coyotes up there either. There might be big cats, but I've not seen a sign of them.
The biggest risk to a dog is probably tangling with a nest of those damn meat bees. It was right around 1990 they killed a woman on a horse when the it stepped into a nest.
The only thing that type of wasp is good for is cleaning all the central valley bugs off your radiator, AC condenser, and front of your car in general. They'll leave it spit clean.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 13, 2017 - 06:34pm PT
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Live from the slideshow!!!
Thanks for a fantastic guide Dwight! Great story about the pipe bursting by the way!
Scott
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 13, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
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Ya, thanks for a great show and guide! Really enjoyed the bits of history.
Now it just needs a bit more dirt and folded pages...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2017 - 11:26am PT
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There are big coyotes and big cats and bears.....and Meat Bees and misquotes.
The place is very dog friendly, but having your buddy with you will limit where you can climb at. eg: no powerdome stuff.
One thing about Courtright to keep in mind, esp if your looking to do some of the harder stuff.
Most of the climbs are in the sun for most of the day....this can cause debilitating greasy conditions and make a climber feel like they are being turned into beef jerky. Also, the misquotes and meat bees are fierce-- especially early in the season.
When Kris and I were climbing there a ton, we normally would not go in till after Labor Day Weekend when the nites were getting down around freezing and the day temps in the 60's. Then it was perfect for climbing.
QUESTION: Does PG&E still do the Power House Tour??
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jun 14, 2017 - 11:38am PT
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I see Tiki-Ger has joined the frequent flyer ranks. I think it must be the MetalMark Meat Market vibe that draws him. ;)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 02:00pm PT
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Guy, 90 degrees and sun are perfect sending conditions if you're from the valley :)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jun 14, 2017 - 02:36pm PT
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Unless they've resumed, the powerhouse tours got shut down for "homeland security. You know, the same reason Jerry Brown won't let out the true stats on Oroville, can't have them knowing our weak spots...
That pic of guy's shows the top of the whole gig. Those aren't the generators, those are housings for the upper bearings and commutators. The generators extend down 10 floors. Totally awesome deal carved out of solid granite.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 14, 2017 - 02:40pm PT
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Mooch,
Tiki-Jer was there for the free appetizers and hot Yoga class that was in the adjacent room. It was mere coincidence that he stayed for the slide show.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2017 - 03:29pm PT
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Guy, 90 degrees and sun are perfect sending conditions if you're from the valley :)
And your limit is 5.6D Sport :>)
So they do not plow that road?
I thought PG&E had some equipment up their that needed to be maintained.
A 5.6D sport climb
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:00pm PT
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Guyman they plow it year round as there is a skeleton staff for the project there all year as well as some old cabins back on the northwest side that have year round access. The big gate stays closed however unless you have a special key or "know a guy." SO when we say "the road isn't open yet" its just not open to us civilians who want to go climb and fish early season!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:01pm PT
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OK ... so it is open, year round.
I have a friend who did Dogtooth Pk in the winter.... she told me... "walk on the road to the lake"... "ski back to the peak, climb and ski and walk out" a easy 5 day trip.....
how much for one of those cabins? and a Key to the gate?
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 14, 2017 - 07:37pm PT
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I talked to some PG&E workers at Wishon yesterday and when I asked when the road to Courtright would open they said that's up to USFS. I talked to a forest service worker last week on Bald Mountain Trail and when I asked him the same question he said it was up to PG&E. I know someone who has a cabin at Courtright and they said they can't get in and I saw a picture of a snow cat on the road from 5/31/17 on SNF facebook page so I am not sure they plow to the lake.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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And your limit is 5.6D Sport :>) Basically my limit in any conditions, so, yes
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jun 16, 2017 - 09:42pm PT
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Up at the SNFS ranger station they are saying that the road does not get plowed and they are not expecting the road to open until July! Damn!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 17, 2017 - 11:21am PT
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I'm sorry I missed the slideshows. I was ready for the original date of May 6, but, sad to say, the publishers weren't.
Dwight, the guidebook is a real gem. I first climbed at Courtright in 1971 (low and unsuccessful on Power Dome), and have climbed in that area ever since. I think you capture both the routes and the spirit of the climbing superbly. Your description of the approach to Roadside Rock at Wishon is worth the price of the entire book.
Thanks for the good work.
John
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 28, 2017 - 06:28am PT
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The road opened yesterday afternoon, time to check the veracity of the new guidebook.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:30am PT
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i am going tomorrow!!!
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TWP
Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:44am PT
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Moose and the Beached Whale want a current-conations mosquito report.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 28, 2017 - 08:58am PT
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Will there be Guide Books for sale at this August deal??
I like to give my $$$ to the dude who sells them out of the back of the truck and not REI.
and the mosquitoes will be out in huge numbers, hungry and horny.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Jun 28, 2017 - 09:09am PT
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No mosquitoes on Power Dome...ever. Moderate mosquitoes at Wishon while camping.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jun 28, 2017 - 09:21am PT
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what about when the sun is going down and your drinking cold ones?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2017 - 05:42pm PT
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So, in my working through K. Daniels publishing, probably the best places to get the guide are through his website, Fresno REI or Fresno MetalMark. Been trying to get them into the Wishon store, but I don't have the ability to sell out of the back of the car.
As Kevin and his business has done such an exceptional job of putting this book together (as well as Kris' Needles Guide) purchases need to be made the standard way...sorry...d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2017 - 05:43pm PT
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...also hope to see ya all up there in August...how cool that rendezvous will be...d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 10:27am PT
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[photoid=503665]
Not until researching the book did I realize how cool Wishon really is...a couple shots from last week's Mighty Lemon Drop Wall FA...(yikes, not in guide). Barry and Kevin Mazzacco also put in a new .10a on Kingsnake Wall..."Doug Quits".
Gotta love our back yard!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Fly, anyone tried to get into Hoff yet?
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2017 - 04:18pm PT
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Don't know, but I'm sure it is open and snow free by now
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 10, 2017 - 01:25pm PT
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Munge......focus! Now get well so we can go to the OTHER place FIRST!!!
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
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Jul 10, 2017 - 08:21pm PT
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Trying to get a hold of you Flydude!
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jul 26, 2017 - 08:17pm PT
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Flydude,
Thanks for publishing the new Courtright guidebook. I have noticed a few more people climbing there this summer, which is fine with me.
I don't know if you are starting a list of the few mistakes or need for more clarity in the guidebook (these always happen), but I have noticed that "Bambi And The Ogre" (5.7) on page 136 states that the rappel is 100'. I did this route for the first time this Saturday. The actual rappel length is about 170-190' depending upon what you define as the bottom. A single 60 m rope rappel will leave you in the middle of the face without any anchor. Luckily I had a tag line with me and realized from just looking at the route that the rappel had to be greater than 100'.
The old SeKi guide showed this route further to the right, so I always thought when I was doing this route I was actually doing "Mambo #5".
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jul 30, 2017 - 08:28pm PT
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On Saturday I climbed the route "Little Lambs Eat Ivy" (aka "Little Lamsy Davey") (5.8) *** on Dusy Dome. I saw this route listed in the Seki guide and it has always intrigued me. It is quite a hike out to this climb, but worth it. The approach is well described in the new guidebook, but I thought I would add some fine details. Do not try approaching by going along the base of Penstemon Dome, but rather move through the woods below Penstemon Dome, below the bushes, aiming for the right edge of Penstemon Dome. Then follow the base of the east face of Penstemon Dome. Where you see a short distance between the east face base slab and talus below Dusy Dome, go through bush and aspen to the talus and then go up the talus to the base of Dusy Dome.
Although the Seki guide and the new guidebook lists six bolts on the first pitch, there are actually seven bolts. The last bolt is hard to spot since it has not been replaced with Fixe hangers like the others, but it is out on the face to the left from the sixth bolt and is between the sixth bolt and the three bolt belay/rappel station.
The Seki guide and the new guidebook lists no protection on the 5.5 second pitch if you go straight up, but there are six lead protection bolts now. These bolts are the same Fixe type as on the first pitch. I did not do the right 5.7 crack variation on the second pitch, but it looked like it would be hard to get protection into this thin crack. The traverse from the belay station to the crack across the face also does not have any protection. If you did this variation, when the crack ended, you could move left and use the last two lead protection bolts of the regular 5.5 climb. I also did not do the left 5.6 crack variation on the second pitch, but the original protection bolt for the section between where the crack ends and the belay/rappel station is still there. The traverse from the belay station to this left crack looks more reasonable than the traverse to the right crack.
Only one of the hangers at the top of the second pitch has permanent rappel rings. The other hanger had some old webbing and rappel rings. I did not have a quicklink, so I replaced the webbing with some cord. The rappel lengths in the new guidebook are not quite correct or are missing. The rappel length of the first pitch to the very bottom is probably 170-180', but is about 160' to a ledge which can then be descended off to the right. The rappel length on the second pitch is probably 140-160'.
If someone does the adjacent climb "Dusy Dotes" (5.10b, R), you might want to consider bringing an adjustable wrench. A hanger and a nut on one of the bolts was sticking out about 3/4" from the rock face. I tried to hand-tighten the nut while rappelling down from the first pitch of "Little Lamb ...", but I was not able to fully hand tighten the nut down to the hanger on the rock face. The bolt studs stick out quite a bit from the rock on this route, so I think the holes were not drilled to the full length of the bolts.
Today I did the excellent first pitch of "Kelsey's Klimb" (5.10c) on the east face of Power Dome. The first pitch is 5.8 and is an excellent climb by itself, as the new guidebooks notes. Although the topo shows only bolts for protection on the first pitch, there are a few places where cams up to 1.0 size can be placed and protect long sections between bolts and a move over a small roof. Only one of the anchors at the top has permanent rappel rings. I removed some faded cord on the other bolt and replaced it with new cord and rappel rings, but it would be nice to put in a quicklink instead of the cord.
If someone lost a rack of cams probably last year or earlier below the climbs "Time Is A Story Teller" and "Pork My Spankupine" on the east face of Power Dome, let me know the tape colors and the approximate sizes of cams so that I can arrange to return them to you. These cams were below the snow for at least one season and several of them are rusted solid, but a few of them still work. My e-mail is markf eight four five at gmail.com (change the written numbers to actual numbers).
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 31, 2017 - 10:14am PT
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I just got the new guide yesterday and I am really looking forward to reading it. First thing I noticed though was that my name was correct in some places but wrong in others. I hope these sorts of details are not indicative of the route information also being inconsistent.
Yeah, yeah, I know, I am a selfish b@st@rd.
Jan McCollum
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Does anyone know where this is available? Local REI doesn't have it. Barring that, what is the actual title and publisher? Thanx-lars
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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en route thanx mooch-lars
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 27, 2017 - 11:17pm PT
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Aug 28, 2017 - 01:39am PT
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Good going Linda, Ed, and Bela. Nice to see everyone this week-end.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2017 - 12:02am PT
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Hi All,
This is a shot at an updated guide. There are many mistakes as in any guide, but let me know how to correct and I will include in the update...What I wanted to put out there is the best info I could locate in this one of a kind place, and a place with little info.
What I really wanted to accomplish was to paint a picture of the last great place in the western Sierra.
Please make corrections and updates.
This guide is not about personal typos or bolt counts but about trying to memorize where cool and awesome previous adventures are located...and where you can have a real personal adventure without being pampered inch by inch. I appreciate all updates and corrections but keep in mind that swinging some balls and growing some brass nipples (to be sexually counter balanced) are all part of the Courtright frontier...
Just go have a blast...and report back, regards, d.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2017 - 12:47am PT
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Finishing Geek'n Hard with Barry Chambers
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2017 - 12:59am PT
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Geek Wall
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Kudos to Dwight for a job well done. best-lars
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I think the first goal of a guide book was met, getting us to the climbs,
there are so many details that any guidebook author is going to miss a few.
Then there are stylistic choices... and we can all have opinions about them, but mostly we have a great guide to a wonderful area, thanks to Dwight!
We should remember that we're there to climb the routes.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Hey Flydude, one piece of feedback from the perspective of a person completely ignorant to climbing in the area:
I used the guidebook for the first time this summer... my first trip to Voyager Dome, I was concerned about taking my son (a new climber) because I wasn't sure if I needed to do a multi-pitch rap or a walkoff. I would not have wanted to be forced into a multi-pitch rap with him. I took a chance that we would find a walk-off, reinforced by some verbal beta of a fellow climber. Some hints about descents for each of the formation would be a welcome addition to the guide.
I can see how this would be easy to overlook for people already familiar with the area, how it might seem obvious. But think about people who are using the guide who might not know which dome is which, which can be walked off or how sketchy is that walkoff or approach, etc.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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You might be right in a lot of cases, I haven't paid attention to that aspect of the book because (as you reference) it's not information I need.
But, Looking at Voyager from the dam or even straight on, it's pretty obvious that you can walk off the back.
Good on you for taking your kid on such an off the beaten track adventure. Which route? Just curious.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2017 - 07:35pm PT
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NutAgain, thanks for the comments...always appreciate good feedback. There's also a new flurry of routes going in and I would like to try to keep track as I can, so posts on this forum with topos, trip reports and comments are very welcome...thanks, d.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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I stopped at the Wishon store over the weekend to grab a cold drink after we came out. The store has several copies of the guide book for sale for those who get there and forgot to buy one.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2018 - 12:34pm PT
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Well, another Courtright season is shortly upon us and the guide has been out there for a season. I've received a lot a great feedback on a new effort to try to record and guide to routes in the area with the knowledge that there will be a lot of corrections and additional information becoming available on existing and new routes.
First thanks for all of the feedback. I feel a lot more comfortable that the guide is generally doing it's job. Secondly keep it coming!
I will post corrections and new details on a Courtright update thread as they come in and are verified. This will hopefully serve as providing contemporary information on the area as well as become a basis for a future update.
Again, thanks to all who helped out on this project. It wouldn't have happened without you.
Regards, dwight
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