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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 2, 2015 - 03:03pm PT
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I borrowed these from Jay Smith about 35 years ago, they got buried in a box in a storage unit &
I recently rediscovered them! I phoned Jay and left a message on his machine but have not heard
back yet. 50 topos and a list of First Ascents! There is minor water damage to the felt pen markings.
I will start with Bear River and return to this post later with the other areas. These are in jpeg
format because I could not figure out how to post pdf files but if anyone wants the pdf files I will email those directly to you.
Bear River - 8 topos (which Jay Smith calls Bear Creek)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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What a cool trove! BTW, where is Bear Creek/River?
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Awesome!!
I'd put a fiver on Jay having the league record for most high quality career first ascents. His topos for Castle Valley in the new Moab guide are nicely done.
Feels like I'm reading some declassifed gov't documents without any redactions.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 03:56pm PT
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K-man
Bear River resevoir is west of Calaveras Dome on Hwy 88
The Domes are below the dam.
Bob
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
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Tad
I used them for a few years and put them away. Jay Smith continued
on his climbing career which involved moving away from Tahoe.
He never mentioned them again and I lost track of him as he got
involved in mountaineering. I feel rather sheepish.
Bob Pinckney
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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I particularly enjoyed the comments from two of the climbs above.
Crystal Blue Persusion -
"on this climb the leader
must execute a 5.8 move
20' out from a poor knife
blade. If it were to pull,
the leader would take
a 100' fall into the river"
Straight Shot -
"this route goes directly up
the center of the 1000' apron.
there is probably no move
harder than 5.7, however
they sometimes must be
executed over 100' out from
protection"
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
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the First Ascent List for Bear River Resevoir & other areas
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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The Pie Shop - 1 Topo
Sugar Loaf - 2 Topos
Indian Rock - 1 Topo
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:03pm PT
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First Ascent Lists - Lovers Leap & Sugar Loaf
First Ascent Lists - Pie Shop & Calaveras Area
First Ascent List - Red Rocks
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:14pm PT
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Lovers Leap - 16 routes on 13 Topos, this includes 2 girdle traverses. In no particular order.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Wow, this is great stuff Bob! I know the place very well and am trying to put the topos to the walls. A couple of them jumped out at me right away.
Crack-a-tor, or Crack-a-toe-a 5.8, is a now retrobolted sport route rated 5.9 called Golden Piton. I basically got in a fight over it after an ugly bolt chopping incident that got out of hand. Never had a doubt it had already been done. But who am I to judge, I accidently added a bolt to these next "two" newly surfaced Smith routes. Which I'll gladly fix this coming season.
Crystal Blue Persuasion I climbed thinking it was a new route. I placed a bolt on it's first pitch just below where the piton is. I missed the pin because as I was about 6ft to it's right when I found a #1 camalot placement under the roof. I got to the ledge and placed gear behind a big flake which shifted away from the wall. So I placed a two bolt anchor. After lowering down and cleaning the pitch (solo belay) I saw the pin and knew I had been skunked. I still need to chop that bolt but I think the anchor should remain as the natural one is not really much good.
Geronimo I'm not 100% on, but I think it follows along closely with a route I did several years ago I called Black Vibrations. Funny because it was named in loose reference to Rastaman Vibrations, another Jay Smith route over on Cal Domes. It may be another route I have not done about 20ft to the left though. I'll need to go out there and take a closer look as the topo is a bit vague.
The Only Solution is an obvious route which I climbed thinking it was a F.A. I never named it (guess it already had one;)but rated the first pitch 5.7 as did Jay. I never climbed the second pitch but guessed it would go as a 5.10 offwidth. Unfortunately I added a bolt on the traverse at the start to prevent a nasty fall into the water which you would then immediately fall over a 25ft waterfall. Guess I should pop that one out too.
Most of the other ones I'm sure I know where they are. Just need to confirm it by going out there and climbing them. How cool is it to see these topos so many years after they were made. Thank you for posting these. It has shed a huge ray of light on an area that is known for being left in the dark.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:18pm PT
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Lovers Leap continued
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Way cool.
Lots of formerly missing FA info and corrected route names for Cal Domes, too.
I recently updated my page on that, and will update it again.
I'll add the Bear River stuff and Penstock Cracks, too.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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Tommorrow or Sunday I will finish with Calaveras Dome area - 20 to 25 Topos. I think most of these have
been released before & I am not sure they are all Jays. I have to scan them and then I will post.
I am glad they are being well received!
Bob Pinckney
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Cool - it will be great to see those original Cal Domes topos (I was hoping these were in the 50)!
I have some old copies and I can see the handwriting is Jay's.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Couple of those ratings are gross sandbags. I went up on the Gamoke, rope solo, prior to Jay and Richards climb. I had already done the crux but rapped off higher from the handcrack since I was out of 2-3 inch hexes. Was going to return to finish it solo but the scroundels beat me too it. Definitely a little 5.10 on that one.
Richard and Jay did the upper pitches of Sudden Death, most definitely 5.9 and poorly protected. Cashner and I added two lower pitches, once again sandbag rated (to be in character with the upper)and poorly protected.
Blue Wind was never 5.9.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Very cool!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Well it's about time you returned Jaybro's beta! ;)
not the first time there was a Jay Anderson (Jaybro)/Jay Smith confusion...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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True that!! too cool!, Wow, thnx for showing the history of the spiral wring!(notebook pages)
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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thank you pinckbrown
for uploading these topos.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Blue Wind was never 5.9
Amen brother!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jay Smith a few years ago at Indian Creek.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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One thing's fer sure, Jay draws a pretty neat topo!
I have a hard time drawing a line on a map.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Very cool, I did some of my first climbs there back around 1980
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Can't believe this fell off the front page.
BUMP!!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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^^^^^
Yeah, no shit! This is one of the better little tidbits of historical lore and badassness to pop up on this site of progressively degrading content in a long time.
I particularly liked the part on the F.A. list for Cal Domes where Smith wrote down the name of the route as "Wall of the Worlds" and not "War of the Walls". Guess that puts that debate to an end.
Edited to add: War of the Walls and not World of Walls. Typo, my bad!
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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I will update the Bear River information that I have. If people ever need topos for the area, please PM me.
Tim
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jay Smith did a route in The Needles (CA) called Wicked. If that turns up let us know.
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Timmc
climber
BC
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I think the respectful tactic is to delete this thread and ask Jay for permission to post these topos. PM me if you want his email.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Bob did ask Jay, via phone message.
Although he has not heard back yet.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Got one of the devils tower route?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Paul Crawford wasn't on the FA of Wall of the Worlds. It was Jay Smith and Jeff Altenburg.
(Jay Smith and Rick Sumner had done the first 2 pitches 2 years prior, also).
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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OK, I see what you mean.
I agree the commonly used names for it are "Wall of the Worlds" and "War of the Walls".
It was called "War of the Walls" in the Harlin guide,
and once a name gets into print, it can be hard to shake!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Yes, Jay's topos are very nice.
I've always been a fan of topos (or line drawings) because they can show features which may not show at all on a photo.
Photo overlays are possibly most useful to show where a route starts, on a big/wide cliff.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 10:32am PT
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This is a Topo of a route that I completed on Calaveras Dome in 1978. I have never told anyone about it. It starts at the left leaning most lefthand arch. I include an overview to show the location.
Not related to Calaveras but another route that I have rarely mentioned and have not finished is the Interior Traverse. This starts on the 2nd pitch of Corrugation Corner at Lovers Leap. It goes through the rock toward Eyeores, basically behind the whole Travelers Buttress formation. I actually
got 2/3's the way through and could see daylight from the Eyeores side. Terrible sideways squeeze
chimney with narrow sections forcing one to squeeze up and over, then down and over several times. No way to put in anchors back then but a compact lithium drill and small diameter bolts would at least give one a false sense of security nowdays. I also began to realize that a 150' rope might not make it all the way. It is so tight that you have to decide which way you want your head turned, forward or backward. My partners thought I and it were crazy. I had tunneled through Monk Rock boulder (which I have never heard of or seen anyone repeat) and was feeling pretty brave. On Monk Rock one starts to the right of the old Robbins bolt ladder and you come out facing the main trail. I include a photo of me coming out of Monk Rock. I hope someone attempts to complete the Interior Traverse one day. FYI, my fighting weight is 5' 10" 157 lbs.
Good Luck and God Bless on that climb!
Bob Pinckney
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Bob
Looking at your Calaveras topos reminded me that I still have a packet of same Chuck gave me over 25 years ago. Collectors item! Thanks
lars
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 07:02pm PT
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As I mentioned earlier, most of these Topos are not originals, but some are. So I figured it would be better to overpost rather than underpost. I would expect Clint to be the one to sort all of this out. He has done a fantastic job of archiving at Stanfords web site.
Hammer Dome area (Lo Cal)
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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This is one of the best threads in a long time. Thank you so much for sharing and keep 'em coming!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 07:21pm PT
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Calaveras Dome area
3 Topos of Bonzai - I believe the 1st is original - note the different names at the top & then how the spelling of Bonzai changes later
Happy New Year!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Bob.
You are right - most of them are by Jay Smith, but some have an added climb
and some were by another person (maybe Ron Felton; I have other topos from him so I can check).
Several of these I haven't seen before, but I see where they fit on the crags.
It should be fun figuring out who C.M., J.B. and R.G. are!
(I suspect R.G. = Randy Grandstaff, because he did a climb with Jay at Hammer Dome in 1980).
Thanks again for sharing.
I'll definitely repost them on my site.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2015 - 07:22pm PT
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And that is all of them!
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Ghoulwe
Trad climber
Spokane, WA
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Pinckbrown:
I did the "Monk Rock" tunnel back in the late 70's, but went in from the trail-side. That was many years and many pounds ago. I looked at it last summer and I know I wouldn't fit through it now...
Eric Barrett
Ghoulwe Mtnrg Club
Spokane, WA
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Great thread. A gold mine. Thanks for posting!
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jonnyrig
climber
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Hey Bob, it's nice to see a thread like this go up in the forum, in contrast to the political BS. And it brings into perspective for a noob like myself just what a privilege it is to climb with you guys. Thanks.
John
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Hard to digest so much great info- outstanding signal to noise ratio!
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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The sheer volume of hard bold climbs Jay Smith put up in the Tahoe Region is amazing. Just wish he added a bolt or two here and there for us mortals, I suppose that's what rope guns are for :^)
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Jon Taylor
Trad climber
Gardnerville
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here are some pictures of bear creek at the time...
Indian Rock
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Its not just Tahoe Charlie. Jay's got many FA's from the top of North America to the tip of South America, asia, antarctica, probably on all the continents. He's like a Fred Becky on steroids with an unlimited free airline pass. I remember introducing him to a non climbing freind in 1976 as one of the best climbers in the country. Being modest he objected to this description, but the truth be told, he was among the very best climbers even then.
Taylor, you old dog. Where you been hiding out? I've got some fa death leads for you with your name written all over them. Your ex GF and I did a couple FA's just opposite thise pictured routes in 77.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Indeed Rick, he has an impressive resume to say the least. One of the greatest climbers/alpinist to come out of California IMHO.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jon, cool photos - thanks for sharing.
Rick, do you have FA info for Old Crow and other stuff on the west side of Bear River?
Or for these east side routes?
5. Bear River - Regular Route
10. Bear River - Direct
The other mystery (to me) is where these routes are (listed in FA list but not on topos):
14. Snickers FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, 9/82
15. Adventures in Paradise FA: Jay Smith, Paul Crawford, Paul Obanheim, by 9/82 ?
(I added Bear River to my Cal Domes page, as it's so close)
http://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/caldomes/index.htm
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Adventures in Paradise is located about 150' left of "The Only Solution" on that same dome. Crawford told me where that one was. I believe it's two pitches, maybe a short third. The anchor bolts have nearly rusted off and all the bolts need replaced. I gave it a quick look over when putting up a new route 40 or so ft to it's left this summer.
I Re-bolted Abba-Zabba a few years ago or maybe another route just to it's left. It was two bolts w/ some gear to a two bolt anchor. Jays topo doesn't show an anchor but it looks to be the same route.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Chad. It looks like an interesting area.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Well Clint, its been 38 years and the two routes I did were not that memorable. The only thing I remember distinctly was they were about 5.7 and 5.9 and seeing as how I had neither bolts or pins along they seemed a bit runout between features. Both were 2 or so pitches. Of the other established routes I know little to none.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Thanks, Rick. I was just checking in case there was something unusual.
Of course it doesn't always turn out that way. :-)
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Jon Taylor
Trad climber
Gardnerville
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Sumner:::Thought you were dead. What did you do with my old GF BTW...
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Well Taylor, I can tell you we didn't go swimming. The water coming out of the bottom of that reservoir is as cold as the polar bear plunge in AK. Carol was always a freind and only a freind. Let's go climbing ya old maroon.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Hey, Bob, this is quite the find! I think folks heading up to Blue Wind on the Lower Buttress at the Leap and expecting to find 5.9 climbing are going to be in for a BIG surprise--heh, heh.
I don't know if you remember me, but I was a good friend of Reiner and Clancey back in the day. I think we did a few climbs together at the Leap. You and Clancey and I were together when the cop tooled you on the drive home, claiming you were drunk but were way more than stone cold sober. Did you have long hair then? Actually ran into Clance last year at the Leap, first time seeing him in over 20 years. Time do fly, don't it? BTW, my real name is Scott.
Be well, and find a good place for those golden oldies. Great find.
BAd
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I remember years ago after mentioning to Petch our days plans which included doing a warm up on Blue Wind before heading up to the Main Wall. His exact words were "Blue Wind is NOT a warm up, it's a GOAL".
He wasn't kidding.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2015 - 05:57pm PT
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Wow Eric, Impressive that you went through Monk Rock from the other direction. I can't
imagine how one would get started from the trail side. I think if I cut back on my beer
consumption for a while I might be able to fit through it again!
Bob Pinckney
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2015 - 06:58pm PT
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Jon - that is exactly what I said to Rick also!
Bob Pinckney
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Bob, good find and thread with these topo's.
Unless unforseen difficulties arise I'll be back in NV saturday night. Are you up for some more new routing tues or so onwards, weather permitting?
Reconnected with Taylor about 7 or 8 years ago. Only been able to get him back out on the rock once though. Maybe with you and him living in relatively close proximity we can drag his lazy azz out.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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He's like a Fred Becky on steroids with an unlimited free airline pass. I remember introducing him to a non climbing freind in 1976 as one of the best climbers in the country. Being modest he objected to this description, but the truth be told, he was among the very best climbers even then.
Excellent share by Mr. Sumner . . . Mr. Smith's resume is possibly unparalleled . . . much respect.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2015 - 08:07pm PT
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Count me in Rick.
Would be great to get Jon out.
Jonnyrig tried to get me out this
coming weekend but I got roped
in to helping my neighbor put up
cement board siding, so next week
works out good.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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Yes I do remember Scott, sure had a lot of fun BITD didn't we - I regularly got tooled
by the Tahoe officers but always seemed to be able to talk my way out of a ticket.
I have enjoyed hooking up with old friends in the last few years because of the internet.
I have more time now that I'm retired, didn't when I was working (UPS driver for almost
30 years in Tahoe) Speeding - a daily occurrence in those brown trucks. I used to go
50 mph down spooner summit (hwy 50) in a white-out with chains on my duallys in a
foot of snow - no problem. I'm on Facebook under my real name and am facebook friends
with Rainer and other old climbing buddies.
Bob Pinckney
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Jay Smith
Trad climber
Castle Valley, Utah
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Mr. Pinkney, don't you think it's about time you give me my topos back? How the hell are you. I'm in Ouray at the Ice Festival and have just been informed that there is some thread on Supertopo about some old topos of mine. I don't really follow Supertopo, but I thought I should check it out. Anyway, glad you found them. And yep, I do recognize them. And no, Jay Anderson and I are not one in the same. (Bob I know you know that, but someone doesn't). However, he does live in Moab, at least part of the year.
Well you know what, some day I'll have to come by and pick them up. Would be good to see ya. Might even be good to see Sumner as well if he's around.
Good to hear you guys are still alive, and well I presume.
Bear River, hmm, pretty run out routes as I recall, but pretty easy. Well if people are now bolting them, I guess it might be OK, if it is done well. Certainly the old pins are crap and if there were some 1/4" bolts, they are certainly crap. Just do a good job please.
And Bob, never heard your phone call. If I had, for sure I would have called ya back.
Maybe see you guys this spring or summer. Take care and call me again, so I'll have your number.
The real Jay Smith
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Jay Smith
Trad climber
Castle Valley, Utah
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Where is that damn free ailine pass anyway?
Jay
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Way cool - thanks for chiming in!
And thanks for the fun routes and nice topos.
Thanks for letting that stuff out to the Harlin guide, back in the day.
Is there a back story to how John Harlin go that info, and what people felt about it? I've always wondered.
(I know there was kind of an anti-guidebook trend in the early 70s,
but the Meyers topos came out in 78 and 82, along with clean protection and revived guidebooks a bit).
I've enjoyed my infrequent visits to the Cal Domes, and looking forward to checking out Bear River.
And yeah, rumors of free airline tickets from frequent flier miles for climbers have got to be overblown.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Okay, okay, maybe not exactly a free pass but million mile club and preferential seating at least.
Got any hair left?
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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Feb 11, 2015 - 10:04am PT
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In attempt to bump the crappy troll threads.
Climbing content is waayy more cool.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Feb 11, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
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Bump for a great find!
John
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2015 - 09:46am PT
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Thanks for phoning me Jay, nice to talk after all these years.
I'll get those old Topos in the mail shortly. If your ever in the area,
drop by so we can shoot the breeze & maybe go climbing.
Bob Pinckney
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2015 - 07:26am PT
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Finally, full circle!
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2016 - 05:47pm PT
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1 year anniversary bump
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Way cool! TFPU, BBST. Great history!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Treasure maps. Which one shows the Atocha?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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And is he any closer to coming out to climb with us Bob?
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Awesome Bob. I have the Calaveras JS topos that Chuck gave me at least 25 or 39 years ago-lars
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Highgloss
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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This is most excellent, thank you for sharing.
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