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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Dec 16, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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I used to read 'Breaking Point' once a year. It is indeed a magnificent read. Randall uses foretelling as a great literary tool.
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Stevee B
Trad climber
Oakland, CA
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Dec 16, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
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Outstanding thread, thanks to all the contributors.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Dec 18, 2014 - 02:42am PT
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This is why I still come to this site, fantastic y'all!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Dec 26, 2014 - 09:55am PT
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Mike Young was the caretaker of the HMC Cabin in Huntington Ravine on Mt. Washington from October 1976 - April 1, 1977. He wrote:
With Jon Waterman, the caretaker at Tuckerman Ravine, I made mid-January nude ascents of Yale and Pinnacle Gullies, evoking memories of the Vulgarians.
Perhaps due to my painful knuckles, my climbing speed increased during the winter. Jon and I thwacked our way up Pinnacle in five minutes, and we succeeded in climbing all the gullies twice in five hours. Later I discovered I had broken two fingers.
As for why Jon used the pseudonym for Mike, I don't know.
What is also interesting is the name he chose for the pseudonym, Will Sayre. Woodrow Wilson Sayre led a four-man team on an illegal and unsuccessful attempt on the north side of Mount Everest in 1962. His excellent book is 'Four Against Everest.'
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 26, 2014 - 10:25am PT
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Wow, great cross reference! Forgot about that proud effort.
Here's Sayre's obit from the Martha's Vineyard Gazette:
Woodrow Wilson Sayre
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Dec 26, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
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Really no one???
YER
GONNA
BE COLD!!!
Cool thread (no pun intended) carry on...
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carlos gallego
Ice climber
Spain
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Dec 27, 2014 - 10:28am PT
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We tried but was not possible; one avalanche buried part of our equipment at the base.
We helped the succesful team of Cassin route, saw their frostbites and we thought the cold maybe would be very hard in that face, so we gave up.
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EdwardT
Gym climber
Discontent
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Dec 29, 2014 - 05:25am PT
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From 12/27
Lonnie Dupre making progress on the upper Kahiltna glacier, he is planning on making it to the 10,200ft camp today.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Dec 29, 2014 - 07:17am PT
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Awesome shot! Should start a new thread with that photo...
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Dec 30, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
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has anyone gone into the Alaska Range for big-wall-style soloing? like maybe in the Ruth Gorge or Kichatna Range?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Dec 30, 2014 - 02:01pm PT
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Dupre doing really well. Hopefully, he gets it this time.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Dec 30, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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Wow that is crazy
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Dupre finally was able to get down to his food cache and have his first meal in 5 days.... The weather and conditions are unseasonably warm.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Alyeska is open, sort of. There is no snow on the lower mountain, so you have to ski from the top of Chair 6 down to the tram and do laps up there. It's ridiculous. 43 degrees F in Anchorage yesterday. Shifting to colder today but no snow on the horizon for the next six weeks. 2014 was the first year in recorded history that we didn't get as low as 0 degrees. However, the AK Range in winter is always freakin wintry.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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I used to always place a spare beacon with my food caches on Denali. Made finding them in poor weather a lot easier!
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MarkWestman
Trad climber
Talkeetna, Alaska
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Denali at 2:30 this afternoon from Kahiltna Basecamp.
Flew jump seat with Paul Roderick today as he dropped off another solo climber (South African) heading up the West Buttress.
15 below F in the shade.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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^^^^^^^^^ Stunning!
Mark, thanks for posting up!
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