Spiffy Dolomite Vacation Thread

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Rick A

climber

Boulder, Colorado

Sep 23, 2006 - 02:00pm PT

-Hi Chris, been ages. Looks like a great time with “Wild” Jim in Italy.
-I am inspired by this thread to put a couple of Via Ferrata on the life list. To Roy and the others who have done these , which is the best of them?
Rick

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2006 - 02:14pm PT

I have experienced only the three which appear in this thread Rick; the one on the left flank of the Tofana is handy because this is very near Cortina and the Cinque Terra. I don't recall the name, but the tunnel is a defining feature.

The other two are shown and named on the attendant postcards and were used to surmount, "bivi" and decend the Gruppo Sella and it had some airy sections. The "Meisules" and "Tridentina".

In both cases the Ferrata enabled a good view of "real" climbs as well.

As for the best examples of the Ferrata in all of the Doli's,
I can't comment, but I had heard or read there were some which were steeper and even 5th class. An old friend is in posession of the guide and he lives here in Boulder.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2006 - 11:57pm PT

Chris Wegener

Trad climber

St. John, Virgin Islands

Sep 24, 2006 - 10:20am PT

Hey Rick--

It is impossible to pick a bad via ferratta. The Dolomites have it all. There is great sport climbing short as well as multi-pitch. Fabulous long trad multi pitch climbs. Like the Pont Fiames pictured earlier it was put up in 1914 and with sticky rubber and modern gear we found it stout, even if it is 'only' 5.7.

The via Ferratta are everywhere. like Tarbuster says they range from moderate half day jaunts to long climbs with bivis required. The thing that is hard to understand about climbing there is how featured and steep the rock walls are. You get into amazing positions even on the fourth class via ferrattas. There are moderate (5.10) climbs on the overhanging walls of the Tre Cima. Everywhere you go there are one great climb after another.

The main thing to be aware of is how busy it gets in the summer. I have always gone in June to try and avoid the crowds. One year there was snow everywhere and we had trouble finding accessible climbs. The second time it was great. Some of the refugios weren't open yet and not all the hotels and restarants are open but there are sufficient accomodations if you plan ahead.

The main area is not that large. you can drive from Bolzano to the Tre Cima in four hours and that covers most of the area. Any valley can supply a vacations worth of climbing. I am particularly fond of Val Gardena and the Sella Pass area but there is climbing everywhere.

Another option is to hike from refugio to refugio. They provide food and lodging and you just need to carry your personal gear. Make sure you make reservations though.

English guides are easily avaliable form Chessler Books or Amazon.

Regards,
Chris

Paul

Trad climber

Muir Beach, CA

Sep 25, 2006 - 10:59am PT

While you are posting pictures of the Dolomites - get this - we ARE in the Dolomites climbing! Wooo-hooo! The climbing is fantastic, food is great, and the wine is very good to us. We only have 10 days here, but the past 3 have been excellent. More later!
Paul (Muir Beach)
Cortina for now

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2006 - 11:24am PT

Way to go!
It's a good bet for stable weather this time of year.
Have a great trip,
Thanks for checking in...

(Make some snappy pictures and post 'em when you get back?!)

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 25, 2006 - 04:04pm PT

This is a Lancia Aurelia in the vicinity of Sella Pass:
A young Austrian guide visited us a couple times here in Colorado;
He knew of some storied routes on that face in the background...

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2006 - 10:58am PT

Thought I was done, Finito, right?
Un-Unh, but Almost...

This is the Tre Cime from the side you approach,
You are looking at the Southeast or "Backsides", L-R:
Cima Occidentale, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida, & Piccolisima:

And circled is the Refugio Lavaredo,
With a good view L-R, of:
Cima Piccola, Punta Frida, Piccolissima.
We climbed the arete of the Cima Piccola, the Spigalo Gialo (sp) translated as the "Yellow Edge",
Requiring 12 topo'd pitches, 9 ropelengths for us.
(Rick's earlier photos featured a climb of the Piccolisima).

Here is the more Iconic Northwest side of these historic walls:
A climb on this side briefly related upthread by R Muir.
This is also the theater upon which Huber performed a magnificent solo.

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2006 - 11:29am PT

Grazie!
I was both the leader and the team "seamstress".

I wipped up 4 packs the day and night prior to our departure for Italy,
Each with a different color back panel for quick ID.

My concept was two fold: to make a nice gift to my friends,
As well to insure we all had a proper rucksack appropriately fit to the required loads.

Les

Trad climber

Brooklyn

Sep 26, 2006 - 02:03pm PT

Every now and then, the real potential of an online climbing forum is realized, as this thread so vividly demonstrates. In spades.

Bravo! Grazie!

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2006 - 11:52pm PT

Thank You Les,
Er I Mean, Grazie!
Buono Fortuna!

This is the Yellow Edge of the Cima Piccola,
A nice, say 400+ meter route, crux up high...
And the Refugio Locatelli, where we stayed the night before.

WBraun

climber

Sep 27, 2006 - 12:01am PT

The Cima Piccola diretissima, ve drop a drop of water and there we go?

Very good Roy, 400 meters plus with crux at the end where one will be tired?

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2006 - 12:01am PT

Well, I don't have a topo to the route,
But here is a map written, er, printed on a napkin:

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2006 - 12:15am PT

Perhaps Dr Verner Braun,
Yes one might be tired if one were to follow such a drop's path.
(But that would put you on the wicked pumper sport route)

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2006 - 12:33am PT

Whereas we chose the classic line,
Which wanders to the right in the mid section,
But back to the edge where the hard bit hangs.

The rock is superb and kinda lumpy and golden,
With forgiving features, such as this crack-like crux:

How does one route find on such a structure?
Mostly you just follow mangled soft iron pitons...

Tarbuster

climber

right here, right now

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2006 - 10:23am PT

Randi,
Cool & Relaxed High on the Route,
On a Narrow Ledge Out on the Arete:
The Upper Portion of the Arete,
With a Climber in the Upper Crack System,
From Paulcke & Dumler's "Hazards in Mountaineering.