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crøtch
climber
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Solar Slab
Snowpatch Route
East Ridge of Edith Cavell
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Come on people, there MUST be more classics abroad. How about in the Dolomites? The one on Drei Zinnen looks awsome, but I'll never get my wife on that.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Dolomites
Via Miriam on the Torre Grande in the Cinque
1st Falzarego Tower, Via Comici
1st Sella Tower, via Trenker
Piz Ciavaces, Rampa Torso & Piccolo Micheluzzi
Those are 5.6 to 5.8, close to the road and relatively short, i.e. 5-8 pitches. The first three are acknowledged classics.
Would like to do Torre Vallejo in the Catanaccio. Dolomites are chock full of classic moderates.
Scarf Arete/Velo Arete on the Madonna is a step harder at 5.9 and is arguably the best route of its grade in the Dolomites. Could be the best 5.9 I've ever done. The wife would love it, excellent base hut and thrilling descent. Can be done in a day but why?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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eah. Have you done it, munge? The regular route that Bolton Brown did. A bit of fun scrambling, and then that last move to the summit is downright exhilarating.
It's pretty fun. Saw a group of bighorn sheep for the first time in the Sierra while on that route. While on the same trip, thought the ridge to get up Gardnier was more fun/scenic. Was a tough two day trip, the approach is quite long. Doing a peak on the day we approached and CK on the day we hiked out was a bit too much. The area is stunning though.
Here is some scenery with Cotter - Rowell put up a route here. Bitch of an approach and rock does not look as solid closer up.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Sticking with the 5.8 or less theme, which seems appropriate to me, and no Cali routes. These are all must-do:
Halletts - Culp-Bossier
Petit Grepon - S Face
Sundance - Kor's Flake
The Book - Pear Buttress
Eldorado - Ruper
Lone Peak - Lowe Route
Lone Peak - Open Book
Grand Teton - Direct Exum
Middle Teton - Buckingham Ridge
Midsummer Dome - SW Face
Snow Creek - Outer Space
Finger of Fate - The Book
Red Rocks - Chrimson Chrysalis
Red Rocks - Frogland
Red Rocks - Group Therapy
Red Rocks - Dark Shadows
The Wedge - The Mutt and Jeff
Yamnuska - Direttissima
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sweet Dolomites list ddriver. Looking into it now.....
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Sweet Dolomites list ddriver. Looking into it now.....
If I remember correctly there are about three good older overview guides, the old James Guide and the 100 classics guide, both small format from the UK and the newer Annette Kohler color guide for a starter perspective. Nowadays there are zillions of local detailed guides as well. Don't have any of those handy at present.
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AndyG
climber
San Diego, CA
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Can't believe no one has mentioned High Exposure at the Gunks (5.6). That is a fantastic route. It was one of my early leads.
Andy
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Agree with High E.
No love for the Tree Route on Dome Rock in the Needles?
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jaybro- What I remember about TAd is grunting and pigging up an off width crack through an overhang-I barely made it! I must have missed the secret hold.
Memory is hazy on that trip- I also remember-or at least I think I remember climbing Broken Tree? 10a with a wild barn door lay back up an outside corner.............
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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It was on my top 3 list.
No love for the Tree Route on Dome Rock in the Needles?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Oops, missed it.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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What's My Line...Cochise Stronghold
The Eye...Joshua Tree
Cathedral Peak...Yosemite
Easy routes that even hardmen love.
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FinnMaCoul
Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
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Sorry... obvious but true... a route that "anybody" can do. Apparently you forget what taking a beginner out is like. The Third Flatiron for sure. High E in the gunks is exquisite.
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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4
108
120
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Travis Haussener
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Giving Utah love:
1. Pentapitch any pitch or all (I've taken several noobs on the first 3 particularly the 1st)
2. There's a real easy unnamed 5.8 at power wall in the creek crisp good jams and it's only 25 ft.
For Yosemite
3. Gotta agree with those that say Munginella, that's a pretty fun climb
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Pete Hill
Social climber
Squamish
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Lowe route Lone peak cirque Utah
Complete Exum
Snake Dyke
Diedra to the Squamish Buttress
PIz Badile Nordkante Swiss Alps
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Pioneer Route on Monkey Face, Smith
N Chimney on Castleton
Matthes Crest
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jun 27, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
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Softman bump with a couple that haven't been posted:
Venusian Blind 5.7
Cosmic Wall 5.6
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Jun 27, 2016 - 01:43pm PT
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Mt. Conness North Ridge
Cathedral Peak
Fairview Dome
Doesn't Two Wallabies Meadows have the Top 10 ?
Honorable mention in the Obscurities category is the North Buttress(?) on Mt. Darwin.
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