Top 3 routes anyone can do and no one disagrees are great?

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 1, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
anyone meaning a 5th class climber, up to say 5.8ish

1. Tenaya Peak - NW Butt
2. The Grack Center
3. Walk on the Wild Side


NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 12:46am PT
Royal Arches is surely a contender.
paul roehl

Boulder climber
california
Dec 2, 2014 - 02:12am PT
Easy: Bishop's Terrace, Grack Marginal, and The Nutcracker, three elegant, sweet climbs that seem to challenge yet yield so graciously.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:05am PT
Is this the thread for 'your mother' jokes?

West ridge of pigeon spire
Mathis crest
south face of Charlotte

East ridge of Russell, north/west ridge of conness, tenaya, cathedral, north ridge of stuart, East Arete on Carl heller, palisade and evolution traverse, ejesta, on the lamb, East buttress of Whitney, corrugated corner at the leap, snake dike, a bunch of climbs in red rock, etc.

PS: I honestly thought Royal Arches wad a crap climb. Know at least 5 other people that felt the same way.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:22am PT
palisade and evolution traverse

For freaks^^^.

Munginella
After six
Cathedral Peak(4th or 5.5)
Bad Fiducci

climber
Wilson, WY
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:25am PT
Does anyone climb outside of CA?
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:59am PT
If we say 3 routes that skcreidc can lead and his wife can follow that are classic, then I think we are on to something (that I could use as as list lol! What can I say, we are rapidly heading towards 60 and just getting going on this stuff.) And Walk on the Wild Side would be on that list 'cause I've led it and Patty has followed. I would have to say that is the first Joshua Tree climb I saw that I really knew I had do. Just too fun to not do every year, even without the top out.

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 07:09am PT
Gotta be something in NH as that state is amazing. I had no idea. The Wolfs Head in the Winds. JUst an amazing looking ridge top, apparently with a little bit of everything in it! Haven't done it, yet, but also I'll never get my wife in there by the looks of it. Too much work for her.
rick d

climber
ol pueblo, az
Dec 2, 2014 - 07:23am PT
best?

tower:
totem pole original route. runner up never never land. (org route only had 5 ascents but superior line)

accessible alpine:
pigeon spire

AZ craging:
said and done - reunion - high exp




Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 2, 2014 - 07:25am PT
Edwards crack, vedauwoo
Tad, Devils Tower
Stolen chimney. Ancient Art
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Dec 2, 2014 - 07:26am PT
Does anyone climb outside of CA?

Why?
chalkfree

Trad climber
Claremont, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 07:59am PT
I think it's worth knowing what others think are fun, quality routes.

Lakeview 5.6 on Cannon Cliff, NH
Thin Air 5.6 on Cathedral Ledge, NH
Long Climb 5.8 on Tahquitz Rock, CA
Nutcracker 5.8 in Yosemite Valley, CA

There's two from out of CA for you! Lakeview might be questionable, but I dug it.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 08:16am PT
So we need a weighting system for the evaluation. I hereby submit the following weights and look forward to at least 80 posts of deliberation on the weights for different attributes, and just before reaching consensus, the list of attributes must be revised. But to begin:


bliss of movement: 25%
This is the joy of tapping your inner monkey, ninja, stink-bug, or what have you.

bliss of macro-surroundings: 50%
An alpine skyline, a verdant river valley, a noble quiet desert wasteland, waves lapping at a coral sand beach, and so on.

bliss of micro-surroundings: 25%
Crazy dike intrusions, swirling orange and pink and cream, striking precious stones in the cobble matrix, and things of that ilk.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 08:17am PT
Repeating myself for the coveted top o' page...

So we need a weighting system for the evaluation. I hereby submit the following weights and look forward to at least 80 posts of deliberation on the weights for different attributes, and just before reaching consensus, the list of attributes must be revised. But to begin:


bliss of movement: 25%
This is the joy of tapping your inner monkey, ninja, stink-bug, or what have you.

bliss of macro-surroundings: 50%
An alpine skyline, a verdant river valley, a noble quiet desert wasteland, waves lapping at a coral sand beach, and so on.

bliss of micro-surroundings: 25%
Crazy dike intrusions, swirling orange and pink and cream, striking precious stones in the cobble matrix, and things of that ilk.
Mr. Rogers

climber
The Land of Make-Believe
Dec 2, 2014 - 08:17am PT
WTF is "California?" Is that where my avocados come from?

Moby Grape, Cannon Cliff, NH
Black Dike, Cannon Cliff, NH
Madam G's, Gunks

Wildcard: Recom-Beast, Cathedral Ledge, NH
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 08:30am PT
Dream of White Horses
Mousetrap
Outer Space

All you kneed to know...if you know there is a world outside California.
yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Dec 2, 2014 - 08:41am PT
I agree that no one can disagree that Outer Space (on Snow Creek Wall) is great and should be on that list.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 08:58am PT
I love threads like this! I got into this too late to ever be a rock climber, but I can get in some climbing like activity. White Punks on Dope looks insane! Another gem for the to do list.
Pajamas

climber
Wilderness, Home
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:12am PT
The daddy. 5.6 Linville Gorge NC
The Nose 5.8 Lookingglass rock NC
The upper Exum Ridge on the Grand

All excellent scenery and vibe
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:27am PT
The Mace
The Snaz
East Face of Whitney Free Solo
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:31am PT
I have to say, Original Route on La Esfinge is a great experience. Long climb that goes at CA 11a or 10d. They call it 11c- in Peru. But ratings aside, the scenery around is gorgeous and climbing is really good too. Cool route up a 2000 ft face, f*#k yeah!

Birdland is super fun and anyone can do it, as long as you are not in a wheel chair. 5 pitch 5.7 that is more like a 5.5+.

Alpamayo! One of the coolest looking peaks in the world hands down.

Snowpatch route on Snowpatch is cool too! Long 5.8 with gorgeous summit views. Good climbing and climbing by the Snowpatch that you see from camp is quite cool.

Just being in the Bugaboo is a must. Here is a view after Beckey choinard

Into Watanabe to resolution arete goes up the middle of Mt. WILSON! Aesthetic, quality and longgg!

Snake dike, goes up this peak! Damn awesome. NW face is even better though!

SE Arête of Castle Dome! 1100 ft moderate with one or two low 10 crux moves.

This place rocks too
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:33am PT
Vitya, read the title: "routes anyone can do".
But we know you mean well. ;-)
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:46am PT
Nice compilation, V.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:50am PT
Anyone can!


East Face of Whitney Free Solo

Marty, does it have to be a free solo to be fun? ;)
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:52am PT


Gear- Cobra crack

Bolted- Biographié (minus realization extension, not anyone can do that one)

Bouldering- Ambrosia

Multipitch- southern belle
SicMic

climber
across the street from Marshall
Dec 2, 2014 - 10:14am PT
Too big a task for me to narrow (moderates, right?).

in no particular order --

Bon Homme variation Devils Tower
Yellow Edge Dolomites
Ruper Eldo
Pear Buttress Lumpy Ridge
Wolfs Head or Pingora Wind Rivers
Royal Arches Yose
Third or First Flatiron Flatirons
E Buttress Middle Yose
StefanS

Trad climber
Leavenworth WA
Dec 2, 2014 - 10:16am PT
Diedre @ Squamish has to be in.
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Dec 2, 2014 - 10:20am PT
Vataliy for me the East Face isn't worth the rope work. It's such a great day to do a car to car up the East Face and down the Mountaineers route.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Dec 2, 2014 - 10:44am PT
Coloradocentric - All 5.8+ or easier

Rock Climbs

Ruper - Eldo (agree)
Pear Buttress - Lumpy (agree)
The Owl, The Dome - Boulder Canyon
-------------------------------------


Peak Climbs

North Ridge, Spearhead - RMNP
Ellingwood Ridges, Crestone Needle
Culp Bossier, Hallet Peak (if you don't get lost) (RMNP)
coolrockclimberguy69

climber
Dec 2, 2014 - 11:00am PT
Looks like supertopo is still failing the whole reading comprehension thing.

storer

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Dec 2, 2014 - 11:07am PT
Assuming Yosemite Valley as this seems to be the main venue represented herein:
Regular routes
Lower Cathedral Spire
Higher Cathedral Spire
Pharoah's Beard
jbaker

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 11:08am PT
Naitch - Gunsight to South Peak Direct is a 5.5 now? I think it was still a 5.3 when I did it. What a fun climb!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Dec 2, 2014 - 11:32am PT
White Maidens Walkway 5.4 Tahquitz
The Eye 5.2ish Joshua Tree
Cathedral Peak 5.6 Yosemite

For the 'big' areas I climb at, those are my picks. If you can walk, you can climb 'em and they are unequivocally awesome.
SicMic

climber
across the street from Marshall
Dec 2, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
Good call on Spearhead, Moss. Pretty great.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
My climbing is South/Central California-centric, and YNP-centric within that, so:

NW Buttress, Tenaya Peak

Grack Center, Grack Marginal, Bishop's Terrace or Little John, right depending on mood and time of day/year

East Face, Dogtooth Peak (with side trip to southern pinnacle)

John

ClimberDave

Trad climber
The LBC, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 12:59pm PT
Well lets see.

Fingertrip 5.7 at Tahquitz

Bastille Crack, Eldo Canyon I think it was 5.7


Being There 5.6 or 7 one of my 1st sport climbs at Williamson Rock.
Rocky IV

Social climber
Dec 2, 2014 - 01:09pm PT
Culp bossier on hallet seemed to be really full on for a 5.8. Absolutely stellar but several long runouts on 5.7-8 face climbing. The way I did it featured pulling the crux slab moves 60 ft off the belay with zero gear in, I was totally off route though.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 01:12pm PT
Nobody has ever been enroute for the Culp/Bossier except those two guys.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Dec 2, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
Three Pigs, Stoney Point
Absolute Zero, Joshua Tree
Pretty much anything at Williamson on the a mushroom boulder.
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Dec 2, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Tree Route, Dome rock
West Ridge, Mt. Conness
The Eye, JTree
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Dec 2, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
Corrugation Corner at the Leap is surely a contender.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
The Eye at JT really kind of stands out to me too.

Also, Gdavis, White Maidens is pretty stand out for it's length and grade.
crankster

Trad climber
Dec 2, 2014 - 03:07pm PT
Corrugation Corner, Lover's Leap
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 2, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
Vataliy for me the East Face isn't worth the rope work. It's such a great day to do a car to car up the East Face and down the Mountaineers route.

I know, I have done that. I am with Warbler about East Ridge of Russell though! Wayyyy fun.
Russell's East Ridge and I on top of the Cleaver.

Carl Heller's East Ridge got to be one of the best scrambles in the Sierra though. It is in the 100 Classic Climbs book. Worth checking out now that George Creek is opened all year around..

Can't believe no one brought up Crystal Crag!

Super fun and scenic!


hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Dec 2, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
Harry Daley Route
Bishops Terrace
The Pygmies got stoned--if nothing else the name should put it on you rlist

FWIW- I thought TAD was about the lousiest route I ever did at the Tower.
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Dec 2, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Tree Root and Ending Crack at Sespe Gorge really stand out as high quality moderate cracks in my book. Few people probably heard of them but both are about 10 times better than the overrated Bastille Crack.

And how could I forget about the 1st and the 3rd Flatirons...
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
East Ridge 5.6, Wolf's Head, Wind River range . . . check it out.
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
A lot of great climbs mentioned. Vitaly, thanks for that Carl Heller photo, I am thinking of heading in there before too long. Do you like the camping better on the east side of the peak, or west?

I'll keep to the taco's Yosemite based script and go with Hobbit Book, Snake Dike and West Ridge of Conness...the list is long though and could include so many other classics.

D Reid



donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
Come on ST'ers show lurkers from abroad that you travel.....give Cali one climb max....it's a big, big world out there.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
Give it up dude, total agreement?

I will go with Carl Heller's east ridge, what a geologic masterpiece. Beauty, position, clean rock, two glaciers going down different drainages carving a perfect arête, not a loose hold in sight (until the descent). If it were at Tahquitz, wait in line, even in 2014. Vitaliy is showing his Sierra experience.

The new locals are inspiring.

A route called 3rd class but perfectly clean and well....move by move by move....maybe...5.4/5.7 YDS.


Maybe it doesn't qualify because of the hike, over the highest col in the Sierra.



I will weigh in later about others.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:46pm PT
OK, I'll go with the Pigeon Spire route as #2 because Mr. Donini has challenged us.


I can't go with WOTWS, even though I love it. Sorry.
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 2, 2014 - 06:47pm PT
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 1, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
anyone meaning a 5th class climber, up to say 5.8ish

1. Tenaya Peak - NW Butt
2. The Grack Center
3. Walk on the Wild Side

Lots of great climbs suggested here! Thank you! I do think there has been some thread drift though.

First drift was suggesting Grack Marginal. Cool climb, but 5.9R. After that we got up to 5.11 and some serious mountain undertakings!

How about Classic and Magnolia (pushing the grade a bit) at Granite Mountain Arizona. Bishops Terrace, Nutcracker, and Grack Center in the Valley are great suggestions; hard to argue with those. Pharoahs Beard is a great Valley 5.8, too. Mount Stuart North Ridge in Washington. Definitely Dream of Wild Horses! And, Traverse of The Gods at Swanage. Lots of stuff in Wales and at the Peaks. Britain has to have some of the best 5.4s on the planet.
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Dec 2, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
Ok I'll play.

Great Arch, Stone mtn.

Yellow ridge, Near Trapps

Thin Air, Cathedral ledge
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
Tenaya and the Conness routes - indisputable DWC's.

Bear Creek Spire, so much fun, incredible approach and views, sweet summit, doable by any hiker.


Tree Root and Ending Crack at Sespe Gorge... better than the overrated Bastille Crack.

That is hilarious. Bastille may be overrated, but it is still light years better than those snoozers you've listed. I have an extremely positive bias toward the Sespe and all of its glories, but good grief.
Risk

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
Arrowhead Arête
SE Face Cathedral Peak
Bishops Terrace

If I can do them, anyone can!
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Dec 2, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
Black Tide
Lickety Split
Mt. Clarence King
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2014 - 09:37pm PT
Gary,

Clarence King, eh?


yanqui

climber
Balcarce, Argentina
Dec 3, 2014 - 04:15am PT
Outer Space (Snow Creek Wall) Maybe six pitches, mostly around 5.7 or 5.8, of outstanding granite, with a short but exciting and well protected 5.9 crux. Originally rated 5.8+ by Beckey (I know, DMT said it first).

Lowe Route (Lone Peak Cirque) ST loves Greg and Jeff? Well, go climb their version of the most excellent route for everyman (three pitches 5.8, 5.7, 5.8, I think). In a remote alpine setting that looks right down on Salt Lake City and one of the more brutal approaches you'll ever suffer through.

Italianos/Troglodita (Pao de Acucar, Rio de Janeiro)
The last one involves not bad slabby granite climbing (I think we did 7 pitches, mostly 5.6 or 5.7 with a little 5.8 or maybe even easy 5.9 on Italianos) but it has an ambience unlike anything else, which makes it very, very special. Get a hotel near the beach in Ipanema, take the bus to the bay where the aerial tramway is, hike through the jungle to the base (look for monkeys and catch a peek of Wolfgang Gullich's Southern Comfort on the way) and then enjoy the well protected, mellow climbing with absolutely unparalleled views. The last pitch of Troglodita climbs a short (easy) well-defined dihedral you can see to just to the left of the aerial tramway in photos and finishes by grabbing hold of a solid railing and pulling over directly into the bar. Order a beer and belay up your second using the railing for an anchor. When we were there, climbers road down the tramway for free. Oh yeah, go in winter (July is best).
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Dec 3, 2014 - 05:41am PT
Gary,

Clarence King, eh?

Yeah. Have you done it, munge? The regular route that Bolton Brown did. A bit of fun scrambling, and then that last move to the summit is downright exhilarating.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 3, 2014 - 06:23am PT
Ha ha ha Hobo! So much for everyone agreeing on, that one! Can I show you something In a Weissner perhaps? I'd put Soler, or Walt Bailey in instead, but I think they are too hard for this list. Bon homme as well
crøtch

climber
Dec 3, 2014 - 07:43am PT
Solar Slab

Snowpatch Route

East Ridge of Edith Cavell

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Dec 3, 2014 - 09:37am PT
Come on people, there MUST be more classics abroad. How about in the Dolomites? The one on Drei Zinnen looks awsome, but I'll never get my wife on that.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Dec 3, 2014 - 10:00am PT
Dolomites

Via Miriam on the Torre Grande in the Cinque
1st Falzarego Tower, Via Comici
1st Sella Tower, via Trenker
Piz Ciavaces, Rampa Torso & Piccolo Micheluzzi

Those are 5.6 to 5.8, close to the road and relatively short, i.e. 5-8 pitches. The first three are acknowledged classics.

Would like to do Torre Vallejo in the Catanaccio. Dolomites are chock full of classic moderates.

Scarf Arete/Velo Arete on the Madonna is a step harder at 5.9 and is arguably the best route of its grade in the Dolomites. Could be the best 5.9 I've ever done. The wife would love it, excellent base hut and thrilling descent. Can be done in a day but why?


Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Dec 3, 2014 - 10:16am PT
eah. Have you done it, munge? The regular route that Bolton Brown did. A bit of fun scrambling, and then that last move to the summit is downright exhilarating.

It's pretty fun. Saw a group of bighorn sheep for the first time in the Sierra while on that route. While on the same trip, thought the ridge to get up Gardnier was more fun/scenic. Was a tough two day trip, the approach is quite long. Doing a peak on the day we approached and CK on the day we hiked out was a bit too much. The area is stunning though.

Here is some scenery with Cotter - Rowell put up a route here. Bitch of an approach and rock does not look as solid closer up.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Dec 3, 2014 - 10:24am PT
Sticking with the 5.8 or less theme, which seems appropriate to me, and no Cali routes. These are all must-do:

Halletts - Culp-Bossier
Petit Grepon - S Face
Sundance - Kor's Flake
The Book - Pear Buttress
Eldorado - Ruper
Lone Peak - Lowe Route
Lone Peak - Open Book
Grand Teton - Direct Exum
Middle Teton - Buckingham Ridge
Midsummer Dome - SW Face
Snow Creek - Outer Space
Finger of Fate - The Book
Red Rocks - Chrimson Chrysalis
Red Rocks - Frogland
Red Rocks - Group Therapy
Red Rocks - Dark Shadows
The Wedge - The Mutt and Jeff
Yamnuska - Direttissima
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Dec 3, 2014 - 11:35am PT
Sweet Dolomites list ddriver. Looking into it now.....
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Dec 3, 2014 - 01:46pm PT
Sweet Dolomites list ddriver. Looking into it now.....

If I remember correctly there are about three good older overview guides, the old James Guide and the 100 classics guide, both small format from the UK and the newer Annette Kohler color guide for a starter perspective. Nowadays there are zillions of local detailed guides as well. Don't have any of those handy at present.
AndyG

climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2014 - 04:03pm PT

Can't believe no one has mentioned High Exposure at the Gunks (5.6). That is a fantastic route. It was one of my early leads.

Andy
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
Agree with High E.

No love for the Tree Route on Dome Rock in the Needles?
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Dec 3, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
Jaybro- What I remember about TAd is grunting and pigging up an off width crack through an overhang-I barely made it! I must have missed the secret hold.
Memory is hazy on that trip- I also remember-or at least I think I remember climbing Broken Tree? 10a with a wild barn door lay back up an outside corner.............
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Dec 3, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
It was on my top 3 list.

No love for the Tree Route on Dome Rock in the Needles?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Dec 3, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
Oops, missed it.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Dec 3, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
What's My Line...Cochise Stronghold
The Eye...Joshua Tree
Cathedral Peak...Yosemite

Easy routes that even hardmen love.
FinnMaCoul

Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
Dec 3, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
Sorry... obvious but true... a route that "anybody" can do. Apparently you forget what taking a beginner out is like. The Third Flatiron for sure. High E in the gunks is exquisite.
pb

Sport climber
Sonora Ca
Dec 3, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
4
108
120
Travis Haussener

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Dec 3, 2014 - 08:03pm PT
Giving Utah love:

1. Pentapitch any pitch or all (I've taken several noobs on the first 3 particularly the 1st)
2. There's a real easy unnamed 5.8 at power wall in the creek crisp good jams and it's only 25 ft.

For Yosemite
3. Gotta agree with those that say Munginella, that's a pretty fun climb
Pete Hill

Social climber
Squamish
Dec 3, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
Lowe route Lone peak cirque Utah
Complete Exum
Snake Dyke

Diedra to the Squamish Buttress
PIz Badile Nordkante Swiss Alps
Greg Barnes

climber
Dec 3, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
Pioneer Route on Monkey Face, Smith

N Chimney on Castleton

Matthes Crest
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jun 27, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
Softman bump with a couple that haven't been posted:

Venusian Blind 5.7

Cosmic Wall 5.6
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Jun 27, 2016 - 01:43pm PT
Mt. Conness North Ridge

Cathedral Peak

Fairview Dome



Doesn't Two Wallabies Meadows have the Top 10 ?



Honorable mention in the Obscurities category is the North Buttress(?) on Mt. Darwin.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 27, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
Thor's Hammer

Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Jun 27, 2016 - 02:28pm PT
bliss of movement: 25%
This is the joy of tapping your inner monkey, ninja, stink-bug, or what have you.

bliss of macro-surroundings: 50%
An alpine skyline, a verdant river valley, a noble quiet desert wasteland, waves lapping at a coral sand beach, and so on.

bliss of micro-surroundings: 25%
Crazy dike intrusions, swirling orange and pink and cream, striking precious stones in the cobble matrix, and things of that ilk.

Regarding NutAgain's weighted evaluation system, I see no reason why the weighting of the categories has to add up to 100%. We all know that climbing is 90% mental and 90% physical, right?

So I'm thinking that when the value for each of the categories approaches 90% it's probably a pretty good climb. Does "anyone can do" mean up to 5.8?

Three such lines at The Needles area:

Black Magic
The Tree Route
Spooky
clode

Trad climber
portland, or
Jun 27, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
Can't believe no one mentioned Prussik Peak, W. Ridge, Enchantments, Washington, six-pitch 5.6 Becky Route. Alpine scenery in the Stuart Range. A brutal approach though, but well worth it.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jun 27, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
We all know that climbing is 90% mental and 90% physical, right?

That math makes me queasy.

But anytime I see your name in conjunction with "Needles" I get excited, so I'll let it slide.

Keeping my post on topic, here's another submission. When a single pitch route is worth an hour approach it's a goodun:

Runnel Lust 5.7
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Jun 27, 2016 - 03:47pm PT
I love these threads too, lots of suggestions for the list regardless of OP intention and Mr. M's photos are some of the best.
Greg Maschinot

climber
Jun 27, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
The Wasteland 5.8 Cochise Stronghold
Diagnol 5.8 Wallface Adirondacks
What's my line 5.6 Cochise Stronghold
Contractor

Boulder climber
CA
Jun 27, 2016 - 07:38pm PT
I can't go anywhere near the Needles without doing Tree Route- but that descent back to the car:( You really have to want that one...
fear

Ice climber
hartford, ct
Jun 27, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
Cannon cliff NH - Black Dike (No, it's not a 5)

Cannon cliff NH - Moby Grape 5.8

Bugaboo Spire - Main route... 5.6 or something.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 27, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
Wait, if you really mean a route that anyone can do then nothing beats la voie normale on
Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos. Nothing, got it?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 27, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
The Czech Route...Denali
The Rupal Face...Nanga Parbat
The Torre Traverse...Patagonia
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Jun 27, 2016 - 08:31pm PT
The Czech Route...Denali
The Rupal Face...Nanga Parbat
The Torre Traverse...Patagonia

Too cold.
Too little air.
Too uppy-downy.
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