Discussion Topic |
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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Just used that Mammut 8.9 for a 3 week sport climbing trip, that thing is fantastic!
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 10:47am PT
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I think it's more of a function of getting the right rope for the particular use.
Sterling for rope displays only.
Someone mentioned Metolius. Mine works great. It had a life long after 40.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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I got bit in the ass with the super-shedding Petzyl Zepher as well, that was a waste of a money I will never get back.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:55am PT
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Without a doubt, MSR. Back in the mid-70's when the first energy crisis hit, the price of nylon skyrocketed and the price of ropes did, too. MSR came out with a rope that was less than half the price of the ropes we were getting from Europe(Edelrid, Mammut, etc).
You could by the 'red stripe' rope either in MSR's standard color of yellow or you could buy the rope un-dyed(white) and dye it yourself.
The rope stretched way to much under a static load. You can only imagine how far you fell on a lead fall. The sheath was loosely woven so it collected dirt like a vacuum cleaner and fuzzed like a Brillo pad. We climbed on it for years and thankfully, I have no idea where it is now.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Nov 21, 2014 - 11:05am PT
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I hated those stretchy Beals. Ironically though one saved my life when I fell the length of TKO. It wad so stretchy it allowed Bruce and Ellie to stop my fall by grabbing it with their bare hands.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 21, 2014 - 11:16am PT
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Yo Mark...how's the weather, Angela and I are going skiing.
I'll let the cat out of the bag....Chappy and I only use ropes endorsed by the very best pros, except in Honnold's case, his endorsement says little about rooe durability.
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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Nov 21, 2014 - 11:30am PT
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Solid red sheath Chouinard 11 mm, in 1978, 1980, thereabouts. Droopless, stiff as a wire. I had it flaked out on the big ledge on Sundial, and a big chunk of Sundial fell on it. When the dust settled, I saw it there chopped to hash! I rejoiced! My heart was light!
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Nov 21, 2014 - 11:44am PT
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A Czech friend told me about the ropes they used in the 70's. They were govt issue and intended for industrial use (steep roofs, smokestacks).
They were totally stiff but got a good handle after soaking them in paint thinner. Combine that with the home made harnesses from thick fire hoses and you why those guys are tough.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 21, 2014 - 11:57am PT
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Have to say, I've never been disappointed in a rope.
I have a beal right now that was gifted to me.
Like a bungee?
HAYL YEAH!!!!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Nov 21, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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By the "end" of this thread I have a feeling every rope manufacturer will be named....
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
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Mammut, hands down.
Of course Mammut's also the best brand I've ever bought, since I'm still on rope #1 (which is pretty good, considering how much TR abuse it's taken).
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Nov 21, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
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Half inch manilla fiber rope from Sears in 1953. Rap that sucker around your body as you rappel and you're pulling out splinter fibers from your back for weeks. Those guys from the 1890s were tough.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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Beal, for sure - stretchy as hell.
Gate out le Bruce? Disappointed.
If minutiae like this brings you down, the disappointment train may be stopping at your station regularly!
;-)
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bergbryce
climber
East Bay, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 02:23pm PT
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My Beal ice lines are the best ropes I've ever owned. Never owned a bad rope really. Even the one i got for 80 bucks as a store was closing turned out to be a good one.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 02:32pm PT
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Hahaha, MisterE, tji is good people and messing with me. He forgot the winky emoticon. Course, we are now sworn enemies tji. Gates out or GTFO of here.
Salathe's pitch up the headwall on SS? Leading to the chimney?
DMT
DMT's cash $. Wasn't so hard I guess.
Life is good when you love your rope, and when your gates are out
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 04:10pm PT
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A 300' 3/8" goldline. What amazing tangles that made!
We used it to rappel off Chimney Rock (Washington Cascades) in 1970 or so. Might have been faster to downclimb.
Actually my dad bought it, so I'll blame him.
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 04:15pm PT
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yep sterling nano 80m 9.2 fell apart after 3 climbs on the hulk
current 80m blackwater has been through the ringer and looks new
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
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Early Mammut, I think. Like a piece of yarn then the sheath getting elephantiasis. I love Edelweiss and Edelrid. But now ropes are pretty much all great enough to use. I thank god I am not a rope manufactuer. The videos you can see of the making of person show what a bitch it must be to get it right.
go here for really excellent Mammut rope production video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lSAAl4HODHU&spfreload=10
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Nov 21, 2014 - 04:36pm PT
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My gold line rope was way better than the Petzl piece o crap I bought decades later!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Nov 21, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
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Haha le Bruce. Totally.
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