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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 21, 2014 - 07:38am PT
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A Sterling 9.2 mm. The sheath simply disintegrated in one day of sport climbing and TR-ing. True to tone this rope was the "editors choice." on a gear report from this ST site.
Other brands of rope used on the same routes have far, far surpassed the life of this stiff easily trashed life line. Also with several Sterlings I have got shear tear at the high carabiner from a fall.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Nov 21, 2014 - 07:51am PT
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It would have to be my first rope, purchased in the late 70's. It was an MSR rope. My friends guessed that MSR stood for "mighty shitty rope".
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Nov 21, 2014 - 08:35am PT
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Sterling, handles like crap and gets filthy faster than any rope I have owned in 40 years.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Nov 21, 2014 - 08:46am PT
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Funny, I had a Sterling, maybe it was a 10.2 (?) that was ok, except it's true that it seemed to bleed this black carbon stuff. Hands got very black belaying. Other than that, it was fine. I also have had a few Beals over the years, no complaints. They're nice and flexible and pleasant to handle. Maybe a little stretchy, though, and knots are hard to untie.
My worst rope was an old Edelweiss. (Well, except for the goldline I got started with, which was lots of fun to rap in dulfersitz). It was nominally 11mm, but seemed more like about 14mm, or even more, in reality. The thing was super stretchy. Did the Nose with it. Jumaring was horrifying, thinking it was sawing away on any edge, what with the bouncing. On the other hand, there was a lot of thickness to cut through. It didn't seem to suffer much wear during the climb, though.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 08:46am PT
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Ropes are so funny. Sterlings have been my favorites for handling and longevity.
I've had a couple bad blue waters but also a good one. Had a bad maxim years ago but my friends have them now and they are fine ropes.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 08:51am PT
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Cable you say? Pretty sure my first Goldline has that title secured.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 21, 2014 - 08:56am PT
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Beal it is.
The fuker was a bungee cord or a giant rubber band it stretched so far .....
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:07am PT
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How has this thread made it 10 posts without Petzl ropes being mentioned? Hands down, the worst ropes ever made. I've never been dumb enough to buy one but I have had several partners who have purchased them. Twice, the first day out with them (I was along), they disintegrated terribly. The single, on the third climb (and third rap), the sheath completely separated from the core and bunched up, making it impossible to rap any further due to the now huge diameter of the rope.
The pair of Petzl doubles, after the first day (again, I was along), they looked like they had several years of use on them. Petzl ropes are often on sale but are not worth it at any price.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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Loved my goldline! You could spin forever on free rappels...
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:13am PT
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Another for Beal. Sterling too, but Im convinced I just have bad luck. Tons of my friends have them also and theirs are fine.
Metolius is the new bomb in my world. Definitely buying again.
No mention of Petzl because I was lucky enough to have had others experiences stop me from trying one. Have heard no good about their ropes lately. Shame, my old Petzl PMI from the early 90s was the best. Who makes their ropes now? In-house?
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The Call Of K2 Lou
Mountain climber
North Shore, BC
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:16am PT
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The one I bought but never used.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:16am PT
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Edelweiss recently took a downturn also, a model year or two ago their quality and lineup have turned tail IMO
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Other than Goldline, interesting that I had a similar experience as Ekat with Chouinard. Hated that POS steel cable. Hate! Years later, a buddy chopped my Mamutt line accidentally and offered to buy me a new rope. I said no way, as I had so much more money than him. Years pass, buddy gets a kick ass job and has money coming out his ass. Shows up at my house with a brand new still in the bag rope: CHOUiNARD! CRAP. But I gracefully accepted and was surprised that is handled fairly nicely.
Currently Petzl is on my sh#t list for the way they treated customers of their ZephFurr. That sh#t fell apart within a week - BRAND NEW, and Petzl ignored their customers. See this: http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1785716;page=1;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;mh=-1;t=search_engine But like Dingus, I buy on price, so I wound up with the 9.4 x 70m Petzl in a dry version anyway cause I got it new at REI sale for $94.83 bucks. Stiff for a skinny rope. Gave it to my kid.
Petzl Zephyr 10.3 after 5 climbs
....of which the Petzl dude said in teh thread: • Re: Rope referenced by OP: we have tracked it down at the dealer and are having it returned to us for evaluation.
• We have found no evidence to suggest there is a safety concern with Petzl rope. F em.
Have had good luck with Metolius, Beal, Bluewater, Mammut, Edelweiss and Edelrid.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:36am PT
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Any Beal rope.
DITTO!
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Nov 21, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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100' of truckers rope.
From a place called Orchard Supply Hardware (does it even exists anymore, lol!)
We were "young, dumb and full of cum" and couldn't wait to climb!:)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:17am PT
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I've been using a Sterling for the first time this year, and it's been my best rope. I bought it on sale for $90 shipped.
I have never bought any rope on any criteria other than price, diameter, and length (in that order), so it's been mostly BlueWater and Beal over the years.
This mossy green 60m 10.2 Sterling has far outpaced those. I've used it in the gym about 20 days, and taken it up maybe six or eight multi-pitch routes so far. Handles both the airy whips in the gym and the long, grinder, slabby granite pitches in the Valley really well. No fraying yet, still handles smoothly.
Loving this rope.
Name that pitch!
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:21am PT
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Gate out le Bruce? Disappointed.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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Blue Water . . hands down.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:37am PT
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first rope a Hardware store rope, stretched about 25 feet on a toprope fall! Immediately bought an REI special sale rope.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 21, 2014 - 10:41am PT
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I think it's more of a function of getting the right rope for the particular use. I always get the smallest diameter rope i think appropriate. I'm willing to sacrifice longevity for lightweight. I went overboard a few years ago and got a Mammut 8.9 ( only intended for sport climb redpoints) rope for an alpine rock climbing trip to the Sierras. We trashed it in forty pitches on rough granite with lot's of rapping.
I didn't blame the rope,,,,i used the wrong tool for the job. I still use the 8,9 Mammut but only for sport climbing....works great!
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