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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 27, 2006 - 01:17am PT
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karl -- jeeeeebus dude -- you lived through P3 and didn't gun for the top? lotsa runout sh#t up there as i recall (after 19 years it's a bit fuzzy...) but i'm guessing P3 is the R/X pitch. althogh P4 has it moments, i beleieve you can fall anywhere on it and walk away with nothing worse than a bad rug burn and a good story...as you sell all your gear and take up knitting...
mt first peek at greasy but groovy was when i beleayed lance lynch on a new route he was working on just left of it in '75; became an obsession that took 12 years to put to bed after that....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2006 - 01:30am PT
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bvb, haven't heard that name in a great while. What has become of Mr. Lynch? He and a bunch of other Tucson climbers were at a party. Lance was very drunk, and coupled with exceptionally bad eyesight, led him to hit Mike McEwen, the top dog in Tucson, in the neck with a dart. He had no idea he'd done it and I'm not entirely sure why Mike didn't knock his block off. He still holds a grudge about that.
I'll write up my tale about an early repeat of GBG another time. I took the screamer on pitch 3 and kept on climbing. More later.
Cheers,
Steve
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 27, 2006 - 01:59am PT
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"I'll write up my tale about an early repeat of GBG another time. I took the screamer on pitch 3 and kept on climbing."
that'd be killer, steve.
having been nudged by a PM from one of the psychos still breathing after the FA, i've been calling around to the olddads to see who's been on it. a very short list it apprears.
i'd recalled that me and joc just went up there and fired it after doing shakey flakes, but she has inserted the reality that we pecked away at the sucker for close to a year before we managed a continuous, no-falls ascent. she refreshed my memory on how i wore through a brade-new pair of levis on one mmemorable skider....
this during a time when we'd go do the calf and play misty and quicksilver for laughs.
it's time GBG recieved it's due as one of, if not THE, gnarliest, longest, most nerve racking "slab" routes around.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 27, 2006 - 02:03am PT
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If I remember correctly, pitch 3 of GBG has OK pro after the first runout, which probably wouldn't kill you. (I do remember thanking God when I reached the 'hole' where you clip the first bolt after some 10a moves looking at 30 foot slab whack if I screwed up. I do think of that pitch as probably my proudest no-falls onsight on slab. It never lets up and burns your calves and tips good.
I think the X rating probably comes from the 2nd pitch, which, even though it's only 5.7, has only one bolt in a ropelength. (maybe none now, can't remember)
Either that or some of these routes have sick chossy pitches near the top. My newer guides are buried in the car and I ripped all the relevant pages out of the ones in the house to take up the climbs back when.
I enjoyed the Rambler and Mid-Life Crisis. Both of these are exciting, thought provoking, and yet, not so death defying.
Peace
karl
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 27, 2006 - 02:13am PT
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i dunno man, the first "hard" pitch on GBG is a hairball sonofabitch lead..and as with all hard slab, seems casual on a tr....i'm pretty f*#king sure we pretty much soloed the first two pitches and didn't think much of it.
as i try to ressurect these old memories, i would not be surpriseed the the X rating comes from the long, long stretcheds of 5.8 - 5.9 on the last 4 pitches where you basically solo a pitch, trailing a rope for your buddies....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 27, 2006 - 02:51am PT
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I think you're right about the higher pitches of GBG getting the X rating.
The first 7 pitches of the Hall of Mirrors is another place I used to go for mind-numbing slab-0-meditations. Your shoes would squeek on the stone like you were climbing a balloon and you could turn a 30 foot slider into a 15 foot slider by simply grabbing the sling on the bolt on your way past it! (not that doing so was a good idea.)
Falling on the Apron seems comforting compared to Middle, which is steep enough to make you fly.
Peace
Karl
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2006 - 10:08am PT
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Hey Kevin and John,
I have some very good sequence shots of 'Freewheeling.' Some were used by Wilson in my history of Middle Rock that he published in Mountain.
Those bolt protected climbs on Middle, both the Northeast face and the Apron, set our generation apart. The 60s guys had nailed crack systems and then guys like Beck, Sacherer, and Fredericks did them free. But by the early 70s, we were climbing on blank faces, running out the leads, and placing bolts for primary protection. Ray's comment: "I got us into trouble, and Rik got us out," sums it up pretty well (about their first ascent of 'Paradise Lost’, the first of the new routes.) The second route, CPoF followed a crack system and had no bolts until my ‘chicken sh#t traverse—didn’t Jim have a way of summing up the whole matter?—at the first ‘top’. Then Jim returned with Billy and John and climbed straight up, thereby ruining a great climb with hard climbing.
I heard that John led the pitch by doing a full, four points off, lunge to a single blade of grass, which he captured in his teeth for a deadpoint, off balance, stemming smear.
Launched a writing career, I think. Probably 5.8 static in sticky shoes.
The 60s guys never ventured onto those bolted face routes--I am sure Jim's comment to Kevin about leading on the Apron is pretty indicative.
Regarding the first pitch of 'Freewheeling,' I don't think that we placed any bolts. I remember George belaying me, just standing on the ground, and asking me if I was going to put anything in, in his super polite, gentle way. I remember replying that there were no cracks and it was easy climbing. George just gave me one of his trademark quizzical looks and dropped the belay rope, with an open palm gesture of resignation--(hip belays). I kept wandering around, back and forth, as if I were tacking into the wind. I claimed the lead on the second pitch since the first pitch was an 'approach pitch.' I place a couple of bolts on that pitch. To John's point, we had the head-trip wired so to speak, although I never bouldered on the base--too lazy.
(Come on John, what sort of freak were you? Driving back from climbing in the lower Merced River Valley, on your way to a beer and hanging out, with the possibility of pretty girls to chat up, and you stopped at the base of Middle to boulder? To my knowledge, pretty girls never hung out at the base of Middle, serving beer, waiting for climbers to show up. You had a lot of drive but no focus, man. Heehe.)
As natural as it seemed at the time--fun too--those runouts above single ¼ inch bolts were sort of crazy. I don't think any of us gave it a second thought.
I’ll dig out the pictures I have and post them up. George has some photos from those first years, right after he got his camera. He promised that he would post them after he and Merrill returned from their trip.
Best, Roger
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 27, 2006 - 10:32am PT
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Working on old Breedlove routes you get the feeling that there was a lot more "head work" going on in the training program... bouldering or not, actually I'd call it "boldering." The correct identification of the climbing "limits" issue is that it is mostly mental.
Those routes had to venture onto ground that had no real natural protection to get to the features. Once you identified that ground as "climbable," the only challenge was to actually go and climb it. Sometimes a 1/4" x 1" split shaft steel bolt was placed with one of those Dolt hangers... probably was strong enough (originally) to hange a 1200 lb VW bug off of... and way less sketchy than a lot of pro that got pounded in on other routes....
...but then Royal was watching over your shoulders too, at least in your thoughts, so you guessed you shouldn't put too many bolts in.
You left us many examples of what it means to break through the thoughts that keep us planted on the ground... when you can climb at a 5.10d level, you should be able to safely run out stuff at 5.8 and 5.9, maybe even solo at that level... and you put theory to practice. But it was the idea that the mind needed to be able to do the route more than any body training (which you also did... at least some of you); you left us some mental exercises to work on.
Thanks!
The Arches Apron is great for that squeaky rubber sound!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 27, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
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Greasy but Groovy
This was a sure bet for Richard Harrison, Rick Accomazzo and yo because the climbing on that apron was almost exactly like the steep slabs at Suicide, one of our home crags, and we were totally dialed into that kind of work back then. However, the major challenge on GBG was (like on Middle C.) not so much the moves or even the runouts, but route finding and drilling all those bolts on the lead. This was especially the case on the 5th pitch, which has some decent edges but is no longer a true slab--it's steeper.
Truth be told, Rick A. was going for the Mother of all Runouts on the 3rd pitch, about 35 feet above the first bolt (the one placed in that hole) when he ripped a flake off the wall and took a huge whistler. The 2nd bolt on that pitch was never supposed to be there (it's about 10 feet below where Rick took his fall) and never would have been placed had Ricky not rodcketed off. Too bad, too, because he was already on easier stuff when the hold ripped. This kind of dicy fandango was in line with the philosophy many of us held back then--that you had to run the rope peoperly "to keep the fluff off" the route. Pretty arrogent come to think about it, but it worked for us . . .
Speaking of Rick A., few people these days understand how skilled he was at the king-sized runout. Two routes come to mind: Mouth to Perhaps, on the Apron, and Spooky Tooth, on Lower. I wouldn't suggest falling on either route. And all of these routes were done in either RDs, PAs, or later, EBs. If anyone repeated Greasy but Groovy in EBs, my hats off to them.
I could go on and on . . .
JL
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Nov 27, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
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Good insight on GBG John. I have some vivid recollections of that route.
I thought I would contribute a few photos that seem relevant to both a Worrall Route and GBG conversation.
Bridwell and I did Free Wheelin with Max Jones and Augie West (is the last name right?) we were two parties of two which seemed the most efficient and gave you more leads to boot.
If memory serves me right Augie did the long awaited second ascent of GBG with Bill Price And all.
Bridwell smiling in the sun
Augie working out a great section of moves
Max Jones in heavy concentration.
Edit: Auggie Kline, Thanks now I Remember.
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Tired Trad Tales
Trad climber
southern cal
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Nov 27, 2006 - 02:49pm PT
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It's Auggie Klein
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Nov 27, 2006 - 06:53pm PT
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Kevin-
Here you are in Eldo in the mid 70's
And here you are on the Northwest Corner
And the red line is that unprotected variation to Jules Verne that you, Breashears and I did. Good memories, thanks!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2006 - 11:07pm PT
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Howdy folks,
Lots of action on this thread! Fig and I also did Shakey Flakes in preparation. Greasy But Groovy was a very mysterious undertaking back when I was asking around. Nobody had been on it and the name alone seemed to invoke a good clench among the folks that were aware of its reputation. I think that Fig and I did the third repeat of the first three pitches before the short October days sent us down. My guide is hiding and I have been sorting through slides to bolster my memory.
I recall nothing of note until the thirty foot runout at the bottom of pitch three. The wall steepens and the entire pitch looks like a mirage with hangers at first. A little rubbernecking and the celebrated hole shows itself as the only visible feature. Immediately, its all silver dollar edges and every move feels 5.10. I remember being so absorbed that I was a little startled to suddenly see the beacon of security just a couple moves away! To call it a hole is generous when you get to it and can't even catch your breath. A quick glance down the wave face to Fig was the wrong idea and the adrenalin surf was up! Surging back on the tiny edges again for my hands, I smeared with the left and foot dynoed high into the hole. My right foot missed the back of the saucer and just caught the lip. Unable to press it out, of course, the left foot begins to ooze downward along with the rest of me. "Fig, I'm coming off!" I yelled as the ooze turned into a squirt, then a gush, then a torrent. I looked down at Fig hastily hauling in rope through his belay plate as I went geek skiing on by. Eventually l passed the stance and began sliding on my side down the lower angled intermediate run coming up. About ten feet below the belay I suddenly stopped. Fig had reeled in no less than seven arm lengths of rope! After the usual niceties and a moment's recollection, I swarmed back up to the belay. Awash in adrenaline and with much less fear of the consequences, I didn't wobble the second time around and stood up proudly in the beacon hole.
Then the hard climbing actually starts and the entire coin collection is in play. The thin work doesn't let up for the rest of the pitch. My memories are vague on what the fourth pitch had to offer beside more relentless crimping. Suicide style as JL pointed out. All this fun and more since neither of us carried chalkbags back then. More images soon.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Nov 28, 2006 - 10:27am PT
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steve, you did it without chalk???? didja use refried beans instead?? damn you are one crazy mutha. but from my visits to tuscon when you and off and eve et al lived there, i always knew you tuscon guys were a bit addled from all that heat....
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 28, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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Eeewww...!
Steve, you fell from the ho'! the longest and knarliest whip! That was a totally classic description. Always wondered what would happen if I whipped there! Nice fishing reel by the Fig.
The fact that you didn't get ripped up somehow doesn't help summon the inspiration to jump back on that thing. I AM inspired, I just hope I know better.
I had no idea the thing had a reputation. We were just going through the book doing all the 5.10 or so multipitch routes that didn't seem like certain death.
Thanks!
Karl
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Nov 28, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
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Y'all is crazy. I dig this thread.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 28, 2006 - 01:59pm PT
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Christ, Steve, I can't believe you ripped from that hole--and lived. Skidding down that lower-angled slab below, with a head of steam up, is enough to take you down to the bone, or so I thought. Fig must have had a power winch to reel in that much slack so fast, otherwise that would have been a genuine 80 footer. That you went BACK up there suggests to me that professional help is indicated. You da man.
Dood, I'd love to see any slides of this thing if you have any.
JL
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Nov 28, 2006 - 04:48pm PT
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THIS is the shot I was looking for, Kevin. The Warbler out havin' fun in the olden days!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nov 28, 2006 - 09:49pm PT
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I wanted to ad my thoughts on why these routes like GBG and the ones on Middle Cathedral are runout. I think it was more than just “to keep the fluff off” as Johnny said.
I think we were aware that too many bolts could lead to the “murder of the impossible,” in Messner’s famous phrase. It made for a better game if you got above the protection until you were a bit (or more than a bit) uncomfortable about the consequences. Also we knew that placing bolts was completely inconsistent with the “clean climbing” ethic of the time, discussed recently in Jello’s nut thread. Placing a bolt was an admission of defeat of sorts , since you had to resort to permanent and unnatural anchors to complete the route. Consequently, we all tried to keep these defeats to a bare minimum. Add to this the ordeal of hand drilling from small stances and it seems to me that it was a combination of sporting reasons and practical reasons that caused the bolts to be few and far between on rocks like Royal Arches and Middle Cathedral.
Correction to JL’s post: Richard Harrison and I did a couple of very unusual routes on the East face of Lower Cathedral, Shake and Bake and Starfire. Spooky Tooth was the third route on that face and was done by Richard and Yabo.
Mike- that shadowed shot on Freewheelin really captures the brilliant colors that are a key part of the Middle experience.
Steve-Yikes! Great description of a monstrous fall. I can still envision those last moves like it was yesterday. As you indicated, the hole is not as good as it looks from below. I remember that I climbed past it and then gingerly stepped left into it. Great effort for you to go right back up there after that.
But this is Kevin’s thread and the subject is Middle Rock , so back on the topic. I helped in trying to push the Jigsaw project up a bit with Roger, Kevin and George one day, but we were all stymied by some moves trying to go straight up one of those tiny corners like the ones that can be seen in one of the photos early in this thread. When I met Roger and George for lunch recently, Roger brought me a photo he took on that day. Thanks again, Roger. Hey Kevin, do you remember who eventually solved the part of the Jigsaw puzzle that foiled us that day?
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Jorge
climber
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Nov 28, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
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Geesh, I leave for a while and you guys can't leave it alone...
Here are some shots...A number of Jigsaw, then two of Black Primo. I really don't remember much from yesterday, let alone last week, but I do remember Kevin getting burned a bit on pushing the last pitch of Jigsaw, as it steepened a bit more...and we talked Clevenger into going up on that. We nicely led him up to that pitch, then said, well, we did the work, you just go ahead and finish this off...He was straight up above us perhaps 25 feet with a #2 stopper in as sole pro, trying to blast in a bolt while holding the holder behind his head. The bit split, hit his lip and the blood started flowing, he started freaking--we were a bit concerned ourselves since we were directly below, and when he lowered off a slightly anchored bolt he was covered with blood and pretty much swore off going with us ever...I really don't recall who finally did the pitch, Kauk?, but I do remember getting to a nice flat ledge at the top...
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