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Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2006 - 10:43am PT
Hi Kevin,

Welcome to ST land. I think that your excellent post on the Salathe slabs, John Hansen's Bolts on El Cap thread [url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=251146&msg=252263#msg252263"]The Warbler[/url] and Mike's bolt removal is your first post.

Some of the best times I had climbing were with you and Geroge on Middle.

Best, Roger


The Eye of the Snail
Sep 13, 2006 - 10:50am PT
Mr. Worral's long shot of Herr Alex Huber on the Salathe Headwall circa 1997(?) is one of the most breathtaking climbing photos I ever saw. Taken from over near Ribbon Falls or something, and I believe it took him all day (hike in, sunset photo, hike out all night) for one shot. Bravo!

Umm, Buzz, if you're gonna keep inviting people in here make sure some of them nail, okay? Otherwise it's a total double stannard.

(Thank you.)
Russ Walling

Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
Sep 13, 2006 - 10:54am PT
Kevin Worrall??? NO way... where is he? Welcome to the TacoDome.

Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
Sep 13, 2006 - 11:45am PT
yo or anyone have a link to the pic?

blinny those are some mighty fine guitars!

welcome to supertaco Kevin
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Sep 13, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
Hi Kevin

Good to see you on here.

Pat Nay

Social climber
Ventura, California
Sep 13, 2006 - 06:14pm PT

Nice to have to you around. Glad you could remember that day on the Salathe slabs so well. It was pretty cool free climbing to the terraces one afternoon without a care or a thought of the ramifications to come.

Iíll track you down.


Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Sep 13, 2006 - 10:38pm PT
swami belt. small backpacker's stuff sack as a chalk bag. huge loop of slack in the rope. crisp, new e.b.'s. spring updraft lifting breezes up the face.

when my wife and i finally sacked up to do quicksilver, i'd had this photo stuck in my head for seven years. one of the more classic valley images ever, in my not-so-very-humble opinion.

welcome, indeed. if we see so far, it is because we stand on the shoulders of giants.


Social climber
Sep 13, 2006 - 11:17pm PT
Wow, Kevin Worrall! I haven't seen him in twenty years!

Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Sep 14, 2006 - 12:23am PT
Hey Kevin,

How do you like being a Dad? Heard you were up here recently from Sabina and Eddy. Sounds like you had fun on Hoffman. Sorry I missed you.

Ken Yager

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:27am PT
On Quicksilver, the second pitch. WTF were you guys thinking back then. I could've died from that run out.

It didn't happen, and look where we ended up.


Bawhahahaha ..... oh man.

Sep 14, 2006 - 12:45am PT
Kauk told me to lead that pitch because it's the "easy one".

Sh#t .........
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 14, 2006 - 01:02am PT
I have a hunch that M. Worrall may be interested in the hydra-headed Stonemaster Stories. They can be found by searching ST under "Stonemaster", or:

"The original Stonemaster Stories thread by John (Largo) Long started here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=145850&f=0&b=0 (208)

JL: Anyone out there with old (before, say, 1975) Stonemaster stories, I'd love to hear them as I'm slowly trying to put something together. Hearing other perspectives might help trigger some long lost memories. The Stonemasters were always as much a frame of mind as anything else, but what folks remember--especially in terms of anecdotes, or what they thought the Stonemasters actually were, or stood for--might help give some little shape to what feels like a very amorphous subject.

Stonemaster Stories (Part II) can be retraced here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=150211&f=0&b=0 (171)

Stonemaster Stories Part III can be retraced here (Many nice photos in this part):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=155821&f=0&b=0 (129)

It was requested to continue onward here from Part III. It was getting
too long again (very rapidly actually). Stonemaster Stories Part IV:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=157408&f=0&b=0 (125)

We continue onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part V):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=161148&f=0&b=0 (150)

We continue further onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part 6):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=164782&f=0&b=0 (126)

We continue further onward with the epic saga "Stonemaster Stories" (Part 7):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=169730&f=0&b=0 (119)

Stonemaster 8: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=173337&f=0&b=0

And Stonemaster 9: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=176623&f=0&b=0"

Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2006 - 11:56am PT
Jeeze, Kath, with all this talk about guitars what will come next: politics, conspiracy theories, pets, climbing ethics...?


And what's wrong with plywood, other than it sounds dead? I had to keep my concert guitar at my parents home the whole time I climbed. It didn't like the great outdoors.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
I had a beater that I played in Camp 4. But I totaled a car I owned, collected the insurance, and purchased a fine, spruce topped guitar made by Mario Martello in about 1967, from the guitar shop in Berkeley. I think Mr. Martello lived in the Bay Area at the time.

You can hear that guitar all the way to the last row with a nice open sound I like for modern classical, with its precise overtone structures. You had to play carefully though, any sound you made--intentional or otherwise--was projected to the back of the hall.

I still have the guitar. It suffered a non-threatening crack in the rosewood back somewhere along the way. However, the string length is very long--close to 670mm and it is a bear to play--the fingers on my left hand are still a 1/4 inch longer than on my right. I have considered getting a 650mm with a mellower more forgiving sound.

Hard to climb hard and maintain guitar fingers.


Sep 15, 2006 - 12:27am PT
Remember jamming in the old wooden Camp4 bathrooms, Kevin.

The acoustics were awesome .......

Sep 15, 2006 - 01:08am PT
What electrical cord, do you remember any electrical cord going to the site? Nah!

Hahahahaha .............
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 15, 2006 - 01:44am PT
Hey Kevin, while you and Mike are around, I've wondered about this for years. When I first led the crux pitch of Space Babble, the belay at the top was a 1/4" bolt backed up by a No. 2 stopper with MG on it. Was Mike involved in putting that route together? My recollection was that it was you and Ron.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 15, 2006 - 02:37am PT
Hey Kevin, I did the third ascent leading all the pitches without chalk. It's still my favorite Valley free climb. I have an Ansel Adams photo of that part of Middle hanging where I see it everyday. Thanks for putting up such a masterpiece and encouraging me to get out on that wild piece of rock.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
I have more pictures of you climbing, Kevin. I think that 1973 or so was the year that I scraped up enough cash to buy that little Rollie 35. I recorded Jim Pettigrew doing the entire first ascent of "Catchy" in which you can just make out a white shirt in various positions, moving up the rock. I was such a terrible photographer. (Still glad I have some of the those all shots, with our long hair, EBs, swamis, and nuts only racks.)

I have pictures of you leading "Ugly Duckling" on Swan Slab with my hand covering half the view to keep the sun off the lens. The sun would have been better. So would have a SLR camera.

That day that you and George were getting up the first pitch of "Ugly Duckling" I was walking by and just assumed that it was my turn next. I remember two things: the giant flapper I cut into my finger on the razor sharp, sloping hold just a few moves up, and the sense that it was your climb and you didn't want any help for anyone else, especially someone as 'old' as me--I was probably 24.

First time as a climber that I felt the passage of time and place.

Great times.

I will dig up more picture so you to show to your bride. You were the longest limbed, baby face in the Valley.

Best, Roger

Social climber
Ventura, California
Sep 15, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
Steve thatís funny. I did do Space Babble with Ron after he and Kevin did it. Great first pitch huh!
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