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Messages 1 - 57 of total 57 in this topic |
SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2014 - 11:38am PT
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Saw "Hardman Appreciation Thread". So how do YOU define a MODERN hardman? No need to post pictures of Sacherer, Donini, Bridwell or Royal. We all know they are the real deal.
In your opinion, does modern Hardman onsight 5.12 sport? Puts up ground up FAs? Can bust up your face if you call him a d#@&%e? Who are the modern hard men???
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:43am PT
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You'll know it's not me when you see me
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:50am PT
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To me, the criteria for a hardman or hardwoman haven't changed, but the level of difficulty has increased. I would define a hardperson as one who climbs at the very top levels of the sport for the medium and location involved. Thus, someone like Honnold or Tommy Caldwell - even though their climbing resumes differ - would fit my definition for contemporary Yosemite, in the way that Robbins, Sacherer, Pratt et al. did for Yosemite in the 1960's.
John
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:51am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 23, 2014 - 11:55am PT
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Truly hard hard to me means proud cutting edge ascents where there is some risk involved, some real unknown.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:00pm PT
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Ask the ladies.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
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A hardman is good to find. -- Mae West
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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In my view, a hardman or hardwoman does first ascents, ground up, on gear. A man can put up a thousand 5.13 routes bolted on rappel, and redpoint them all, and that man ain't no hardman(and a woman would never climb in that style).
A hardperson gets out there and does the research. They scout the lines, gain the access properly or stealthfully(if a route goes up in a forest and no one hears it fall....), and go get it.
They put up routes that are at the limit of their ability, whatever that grade may be. They put up some stuff that is enjoyable for others, even if it is easy for them, because the line is good.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 23, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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There are terms that climbers throw out
all good climbers are hard in a type of way
True Satus and the cred behind that 'Verve
It Is the Climbing That builds reputation
then when it happens you see it
An EPHEMERAL MOMENT
**THE CONFIDENCE THAT COMES FROM CLIMBING ALL TYPES OF ROUTES
YEARS OF DOING SAFE AND SURE ON THE STELAR HARD LINES AND FLOATING
ANY THING THAT IS CLIMBED**
. IN THE HUMILITY OF ACTIONS THE CLIMBING SHARES
THE STAGE WITH LIFE AND ALL THAT FAMILY! WORK! CLIMB! AS A WAY OF LIFE
REQUIRES. NO ONE MIX IS AN ASURERITY OF THE SWEET SPOT
INSIDE THERE IS THE MIXED EMOTIONS THAT SHARPEN AND BLUNT SENSITIVITY
SOME CLIMBERS ARE BORN "HARD" LUCKY TO COME TO CLIMBING WHEN
THEY WERE YOUNG.AND FIND A WAY TO SUSATAIN THE PASSION FOREVER
SOME HARD PEOPLE ARE OPEN AND EASY GOING AND OTHERS ARE NOT,
MUCH LESS APPROACHABLE,THEY ARE THERE FOR THE "SPOT' WHEN YOU NEED ONE.
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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Top notch boulderer? Can they be considered hardmen?
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son of stan
Boulder climber
San Jose CA
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Oct 23, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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1. climbing kit always in the car
2. upon spotting a likely crag will park in the ditch, climb
barbwire fences and ignore curious sheep and barking dogs
to inspect the stone bottom to top.
3. rehydrates with beer.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Oct 23, 2014 - 01:50pm PT
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SweetCrimp,
No. Unless the boulder is half dome.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 23, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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“A true hardman is just any tough climber who can lead (without falling) any, and I mean ANY, 5.10 or 5.11 gear route that he comes across, on sight”~Scubbing Bubbles.
Crimp, Sweety, the guys in my first post may not all re-hydrate with beer or trespass but
the bubblers quote fits the five and I might add it has been that way for many years.
(check out the 1st guys crimp It was a picture taken in august!)
Mooselose ingit
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 23, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
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Hard watcha ma call it ..........girl
[Photoid=383
......and also Lynn Hill of course.!!
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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 23, 2014 - 02:43pm PT
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No. Unless the boulder is half dome.
Photo cred: not mine
Seems bald enough to earn respect.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Oct 23, 2014 - 02:55pm PT
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Off the top of my head, one soc medic, one SEAL that was a teacher for my WEMT class and one Navy diver.
I have yet to hear a climbing epic that compares to what the guys above went through.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 23, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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ruppell
climber
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Oct 23, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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The type of climber you'd want to be with when the sh#t hits the fan. The guy that always takes the sharp end when the sh#t hits the fan. The guy that does runout climbing at his on-sight level and excels at it. The guy that looks up at a hard sequence and breezes through it a few moves later. The guy who takes a half liter of water and a windshirt for long routes. The guy that starts long routes at noon. The guy that does all that sh#t and still smiles. That guy.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 23, 2014 - 04:59pm PT
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I think that there has to be an element of doing something new combined with an element of risk. Really hard boudlering somehow does not work in this equation just a gym competitions don't work.
The tough guy stuff and hard living is not necessary--most historical Hardmen were not rough-and-tumble'tough' guys: Pratt's favorite music was Mahler. Also, women can be Hardmen, although the term sounds wrong--Bev Johnson and Lynn Hill come to mind.
Mikey Schaefer is a current Hardman.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 23, 2014 - 05:50pm PT
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The definition of hardman died with Ricardo Cassin, Lionel Terray, John Menlove Edwards, Walter Bonatti, Charlie Fowler, Craig Leuben, Derek Hersey and Warren Harding (since Bird is now on "probation").
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DickSilly
climber
cutlass supreme
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Oct 23, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 23, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
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He doesn't resemble THAT character much (specially if you talk politics, which I highly recommend)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 23, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Can't believe google did not reveal a good erection when I typed it in...
In any case, someone reliable and as ruppell said, willing to face the consequences when sh#t hits the fan. Someone who challenges himself. I think boulderers CAN be very hardcore. I seen some climb very high sh#t with real bad consequences if you fall, at their limit. Majority of so called 'trad' climbers would load their draws if they had to do something like that. Pretty much 25 ft of unroped 5.11+ climbing with a 8 inch pad to catch you if you blow it. Pretty real!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 23, 2014 - 08:51pm PT
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Can push for 48hrs if needed , Can open bivy in sub zero temps, Can go without food or water for extended periods and still climb hard without whining.
Can still do most of this when severely injured.
Oh.. wait.. that's a tweaker.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 23, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Or a penguin
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Oct 24, 2014 - 01:08am PT
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Oct 24, 2014 - 04:19am PT
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Not me, I tried though.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 24, 2014 - 04:27am PT
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Any way you get it done
to just be out there doing it makes you hard ...Man.
If it makes you hard ..if it swells, girl ..Ya ride it!!
Unless you make it dangerous for no reason on a route of yours that would be fun at the grade but instead some trying climber might get the chop for want of enough protection. why or what is up with that? KLAUSE.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 24, 2014 - 07:01am PT
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^ Good definition.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 24, 2014 - 08:15am PT
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TODD SKINNER was the man!!
who picked on me in front of every one and at my expense made unkind comments and joked
that I would not amount to much. I am, that said, He is not and that is very sad for every one.
If you have nothing nice to say why would you go on a memorial site/ thread at all
grow up Klause
and if a route was deadly and needed a bolt or three added
That reflects badly on you not Todd or Bob or steve or mike do you know who go make your routes safe and fun ...you are small memberd here
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 24, 2014 - 08:19am PT
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Hardman is very hard on the outside and very soft on the inside ......
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 24, 2014 - 08:29am PT
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Starts giggling with glee as the A4 gets going.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Oct 24, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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Hardman is very hard on the outside and very soft on the inside ......
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 24, 2014 - 02:56pm PT
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At the risk of playing into the innuendo on this thread, a supreme court justice once said he couldn't define porn but knew it when he saw it.
Hardman is like that
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 24, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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Everybody knows the quote, but few the author;
Justice Potter Stewart
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cintune
climber
The Utility Muffin Research Kitchen
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Oct 24, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
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David Roberts gave it darker definition, in On the Ridge Between Life and Death, I think.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 25, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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Ordinary person spends his live avoiding tense situations. Hardman, like Repo Man, spends is life getting into tense situations. It's a part of his code.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 26, 2014 - 08:59am PT
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John Bachar
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Oct 26, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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I'm a little disappointed in the responses, which seems to devolve into "who is your favorite climber".
I was hoping for a little more introspection into WHAT makes a hardman or hardwoman----if a person is named, then WHY are they? I think it requires a demonstration of character, as well as a demonstration of toughness.
An example might be Joe Simpson, demonstrated by his climb off of Siula Grande.
Another might be Aron Ralston, who cut off his own trapped arm with a pocket knife.
Yet a third might be Layton Kor, who at the top of his game, quit climbing to ensure he'd be there for his children.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 26, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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Richard Harrison.
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Handjam Belay
Gym climber
expat from the truth
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Oct 26, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
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My blink answer:
Brian McCray
Mugs Stump
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 26, 2014 - 02:58pm PT
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Goes out into the middle of absolute effing nowhere with no more support than their partner to establish Grade IV+ routes ground-up.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Oct 26, 2014 - 07:33pm PT
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Each of our climbing buddies that grabs the rack when we are too scared to take the next lead, and charges into fray!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Oct 26, 2014 - 09:12pm PT
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Hardman: Smokes a pack a day for most of his life and lives to 80+
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 27, 2014 - 02:11am PT
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Oct 27, 2014 - 06:59am PT
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Two words define "hardman"
Burt Bronson
;)
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 27, 2014 - 09:42am PT
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quickly conquered the game and then quit after a few years
Conquered climbing over a short time? That's pretty cool! After 4 years I feel like I am just barely starting to learn things. Seriously.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Oct 27, 2014 - 02:45pm PT
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Anybody who has ever gone to climb in Patagonia. Anyone who has led 5.11 at Devils tower. The guy that takes the lead when the weather turns, the guy or gal who makes sure the injured climber gets down safely, someone who is willing to spend 3 months to life on a climbing trip.
Their gear should be very well used. Someone who is immune from snail eye. Someone who never gets the girl or guy-or if they do, they wish they hadn't.
Well, that counts me out!
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jgill
Boulder climber
Colorado
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Oct 27, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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Burt Bronson aka Doc Savage
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 28, 2014 - 07:49pm PT
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After 4 years I feel like I am just barely starting to learn things. Seriously.
Says a man who meets my definition:
Goes out into the middle of absolute effing nowhere with no more support than their partner to establish Grade IV+ routes ground-up.
(reposted from the previous page)
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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a wo/man, who while progressing the state of the art, doesn't lose their shIt, when shIt hits the fan.
[like a military award, once the achievement is unlocked, the status can be tarnished but is very difficult to revoke. ie. once a hardwo/man, almost always a hardwo/man, even if they are no longer in the arena]
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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I like Naahoo's comment; "a wo/man, who while progressing the state of the art, doesn't lose their shIt, when shIt hits the fan."
WE all know or have climbed with a few, over the years. To me the "alpine" seems to separate the men from the boys, or any big wall, when the going gets tough.
A few photo's and expressions can say a lot, as well.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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