flash freerider

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GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 22, 2014 - 08:34pm PT
I'm a bit confused at exactly what happened up there. It appears they rapped to the ground after the first day which in my book is an interruption of a continues free ascent which is something I consider fairly important in bigwall free climbing. But maybe this is just a rule I set for myself

Has this ascent been verified by Valley D#@&%ebags (VDs)? I would like to submit a formal complaint that their ascent was never approved nor endorsed by the El Portal Committee and is heretofore invalid.

Please bring your passport, Work Visa, Patagonia Live Simply hat and Hipster beard for further examination before entering Yosemite Valley. Not everyone is born in California, you know, some of us have to EARN it.


Hanging Belays. A0. Next.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 22, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
^^^LOL


mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Oct 23, 2014 - 03:36am PT
Gdavis I can't really tell if you are talking sh#t or not.


No one needs their ascents validated, approved or endorsed but when a possible important benchmark in climbing is claimed I think a critical eye and discussion is important. If not now then when? I've been called out on things I've done in climbing and it was good for me. It made me stop and think about my decisions, about the way I choose to climb and if I was holding myself to the highest standard that I could.

Do people think its important to free climb big walls in continues ascents or does it matter if your rap down to eat warm food, take a shower and sleep in a bed? All I'm saying is for ME it is important that i start on the ground and go to the top in one continues climb, and I thought it was for others. Maybe I'm wrong? I'd like to hear others thoughts on this.


And the standard I've set for myself regarding claiming a flashed ascent, means no falls, on the WHOLE route. If I were to leave the belay and go the wrong way and fall while off route and then come back to the belay and find the correct route and climb that way without falls I wouldn't claim I flashed the route. Maybe I'd say i flashed the pitch but not the route.


What Pete Whittaker did is an incredible effort and something that without a doubt he should be super proud of and totally psyched about. Its really damn impressive. But I'm still excited to read about the day when someone climbs El Cap from the ground to the top in one continues ascent with zero falls on his or her first try.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 23, 2014 - 06:30am PT
thanks for adding to the discussion Mikey! I think Gdavis is just ribbing you a little bit, and as a result got a much better follow up to your original post.

I agree in that although he didn't flash the entire route he did give it a great effort, and is transparent about his asterisks on the boulder problem. The media hypes it, and every believes it so who needs to think any further? Clarity is key, and I applaud Petey for giving us all the dirty details of the trip.

I think an el cap flash will happen very very soon.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Oct 23, 2014 - 06:39am PT
Gdavis I can't really tell if you are talking sh#t or not.


No one needs their ascents validated, approved or endorsed

Oh yeah? Especially Brits. I formally endorse anyone named Peter who hails from an island, and is brave enough to put up on a proper continent.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 23, 2014 - 07:58am PT
Gdavis I can't really tell if you are talking sh#t or not.


aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Oct 23, 2014 - 10:58am PT
Kinda agree on the hanging belay/AO comment.
SweetCrimp

Big Wall climber
Bay Area
Oct 23, 2014 - 11:04am PT
All I'm saying is for ME it is important that i start on the ground and go to the top in one continues climb, and I thought it was for others. Maybe I'm wrong? I'd like to hear others thoughts on this.

If you want to claim a "flash", that would be right. From what I understand, if you have done Freeblast (or even a few pitches of it) prior to your GU ascent, it would not be a flash?
I am very impressed by Pete's achievement though. As a personal accomplishment, I believe it to be as impressive as a true flash. At least he knows he had the skills and came prepared for what he came for. Hats off!
Wouldn't be surprised if Mirko did a true flash in a few years. Kid has the strength to lay-back the whole thing, linking it with a 3000ft rope and not even get pumped! New generation of climbers are quite incredible.

Kinda agree on the hanging belay/AO comment.

Sure someone would. It was sarcasm however. I hope. haha If you are so anal, than every time someone sets up a portaledge while free climbing a route they should have their ascent downgraded to A0. Ice climbing and mixed would be A1, or whatever. Personally, I would have to laugh it off and disagree. Climbing is anarchy, everyone can have their opinion.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Oct 23, 2014 - 11:20am PT
A hang is a hang*
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Oct 23, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
Rules are rules, and I'm from Southern California where they were forged in the fiery crucible of Mount Doo-, er, Tahquitz.
Edwardmw

climber
Oct 23, 2014 - 05:26pm PT
I agree with what Mickey Schaeffer said above,
Messages 21 - 31 of total 31 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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