Zip's triumphant return to the stone. Advice needed.

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List

This thread has been locked

Messages 21 - 33 of total 33 in this topic

<< First | < Previous | Show All | Next > | Last >>

Todd Gordon

Trad climber

Joshua Tree, Cal

Oct 10, 2014 - 09:15pm PT

Call up up......I'm good to go. (760) 366-9395.........let's go!....talk to you soon, and hopefully ...see you soon, Blair...

Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber

moving thru

Oct 10, 2014 - 09:17pm PT

zip, I have a new rope and a helmet. Had fun climbing my second climb with yo in JT after a long hiatus several years ago. Your lead was great. If you want to try again, let me know. Cheers, lynne

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Oct 11, 2014 - 08:00am PT

Zip!!! Get 'er done!

9.8mm-11mm rope, 60 meter.
Any helmet is fine.
Any harness is good, as long as you understand it.
Stick to TR's at first, or easy leads.

Take up Todd on his offer.

zip

Trad climber

pacific beach, ca

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2014 - 10:46am PT

Looks like I'm getting close.
I had a couple surgeries a week ago, and I now see the light at the end of this long tunnel.
Have two post op appointments next week, and should be cleared to return to work with minimal restrictions on 11/3, which would put me in JT on the following weekend.

Thanks for all the input, and offer of climbing partners.

Looks like I will go with a 9.5-10mm 60 or 70 meter cord, and no idea on the helmet or harness. I'm just gonna show up Friday morning at Nomad's and see what they got.

Lynne, maybe we can climb again soon.

Rodger, you're on, but no rattlesnakes.

Todd, I have always enjoyed climbing with you and Sweet Pants(Tucker), and the rest of the Gordonettes. I am not sure I would be strong enough for TECA(Todd Eco Challenge Approach)right now. I'm walking 7 miles a day now, but have been taking a mid day nap.

James, going to start with EZ stuff close to the road, and then see how it goes.

I might just post a climbing partner wanted notice for Noobs in HVCG.

Going to stay with my 27 year old Aces with the Locker resole to start, but I would imagine new shoes are on the horizon.

Thanks again for all the great advice, good vibes and stoke.

Hope to see a few of you soon.

Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber

moving thru

Oct 25, 2014 - 11:08am PT

Glad to hear things are going well for you, Zip!
Have you ever climbed with Wendell? He goes to JT quite a bit. Also might get Ron Gomez out there.....

Cheers, Lynne

zip

Trad climber

pacific beach, ca

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2014 - 02:30pm PT

Locker, yep I'm a walking fool now. I've dropped almost 20 pounds too. Not quite at Alex Honnold weight, but getting there.

Isn't huffing and puffing part of your lifestyle?

Captain...or Skully

climber

in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where

Oct 25, 2014 - 03:48pm PT

Welcome back, Zip.

Spider Savage

Mountain climber

The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles

Oct 25, 2014 - 03:57pm PT

The new double buckle harnesses like the now discontinued Petzl Corax are awesome!!

A set of Camelots or Dragons and a set of stoppers is all you need on the rack.

Plenty of fresh draws. Camp makes some sweet ones.

I don't know jack about helmets.

Those Boreal Ace's are the best shoes ever if you have narrow feet. Make sure Locker puts C4 5.10 rubber on them.

kaholatingtong

Trad climber

Nevada City

Oct 25, 2014 - 04:46pm PT

the only peace of advice I could offer that may be of any use and hasn't been mentioned yet ...

Bi color rope. I am ignorant enough to not know whether they existed when you used to climb before or not. Call me weird but I won't ever buy a rope that isn't two different colors ever again.

couchmaster

climber

Oct 25, 2014 - 05:48pm PT

CONGRATS ZIP! WELCOME BACK.

Best gear IMO:

Harness: Misty Mountain Cirque (if you are doing longer routes like in Yos, get the Cadillac)
Rope - Any UiAA rate #1, but I'd get a 9.6-9.8 x 70 if I could only have one.
Cams - Small cams Totem Basics or Metolius Mastercams.
Large cams -Totems
Nuts Both DMM Offsets, brass and Alum, and a set of DMM wallnuts (their std nuts)
Nut tool - Wild Country Pro-Key and Metolius (Torque) all have clips integrated into them and have bigger back end you can whack with your palm. For opening beers, the BD is the best though.
Shoes - get comfortable ones. Every Mfg makes great shoes, rubber gets argued endlessly. You should simply double check yours fit as edema and feet change with age.

http://mistymountain.com/

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Cams-Reviews/Totem-Cam
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Nut-Reviews/DMM-Offset-Nut

Lynne Leichtfuss

Sport climber

moving thru

Oct 25, 2014 - 09:14pm PT

"Walking 7 miles a day".....This is good. But is it flatland walking? Imho, it's better to do a steep mile or two than more miles walking the flatland. I could be wrong, but seems to get my cardio and muscles in good shape quicker than the flatland stuff. If you ever want to do something like Mt. Monserate call me. It's a puffer and I can't race up it, but it is great for conditioning.

Kaholatingtong mentioned a bi color rope which is what I have and recommend. The 70m is worth the xtra cost imo. But I've learned this more from climbers than from my (limited) time on the rock. First rope I bought JB recommended, the lighter 70m rope.

Cheers to yo zip!

tinker b

climber

the commonwealth

Oct 26, 2014 - 12:32am PT

alright here is my two cents...

if you are going to do most of your climbing in joshua tree stick to a 60 meter. pulling up that extra thirty feet on every route is really annoying. especially when the route was only 40. there is no route in joshua tree that you can not get off of with a sixty. a 60 is lighter to carry around in your pack. quicker to flake, and cheaper.

a 70 meter is nice for places with longer single pitch routes (owens, yosemite, indian creek) and works well if you want to link pitches on long routes.

welcome back. i am sure your heart will soar and your body feel ten times better the moment that you touch the rock and feel your body instinctually know how to move. be gentle on your self and remember 5.7 is really fun.