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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Actually there are untold stories of rangers and of a certain magistrate, doing their best to help climbers, even understand them. The best source I know for the magistrate accounts is Joe McKeown (our very own Guido, of Guido Roofing (g)). Joe encountered His Honor more than once, maybe even dated a daughter or??? But Joe has spoken and written of this official in pretty positive terms over the years. Accounts from the Sixties, mind you. Apparently the judge was somewhat rustic, independent, and novel, even.
In the early seventies we still had the great Pete Thompson. We worked with him directly on the first big El Cap rescues. The man was just absolutely wonderful and way powerful as well. Pete even helped out Bridwell in a bunch of ways privately back then. Alas, Pete transferred or was transferred out of there at some point and we lost a terrific friend and ombudsman. Pete's son Josh became a famous Olympian biathlete. (1984 Olympics for example) See here: http://www.sports-reference.com/olympics/athletes/th/josh-thompson-1.html
I will never forget the calm and power than came through the radios on the first West Buttress and Nose rescues. It practically brought me to tears. Pete was down on the Valley floor, scoping us all and conducting operations from there to the ant hill of technicians in action on high.
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SweetCrimp
Big Wall climber
Bay Area
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Many people are able to stay in the park for longer than the set limit. If you keep a low profile, look normal and don't bother random people, why would you be bothered? As far as the Rangers are concerned, you are just like any other money spending touron.
Chongo section was silly.
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Modesto Mutant
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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I just watched Valley Uprising at the Rio theatre here in Santa Cruz. I was able to overlook the inaccuracies, and inconsistencies to thoroughly enjoy the film. The highlights to me was Royal. I loved his sense of truth and humility. Anyways, thumbs up.
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Oct 10, 2014 - 06:23am PT
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truth and humility [??]
you make this judgement from a few sound bites?
Speaking of "sophistication" this guy Royal may have it over both Largo and Tommy Frost. I really do question the conveyance of his sincerity.
I used to sell my guidebooks to Royal. He was the biggest as*hole for eternally late payments with no interest. We are talking maybe getting payment a year after repeated requests for payment in full. I soon required prepaid payment for my guidebooks to this huckster.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Oct 10, 2014 - 07:49am PT
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Wow, climbing sounds complicated!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 10, 2014 - 09:01am PT
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Climbers are a family. Watched Valley Uprising with my peoples at the Rio. It was "The Show", the shat, terribly expectation beating awesome, hip, coolio, rad, sick-wicked-bitchin, OH YEAH!
History, and the STORY told by some ugly ass commentators, with heroes, villains, characters, beauties and burley babes, and a new kid too. Smartasses and CEO's and my favorite drunk, well damn it was good. A critical ass kicker, shut up!
IMO this flick rocked it out of this world!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 10, 2014 - 09:56am PT
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Funny that Roger!
Watched the flick last night here in the Cruz. Entertaining to say the least.
What a crazy lot these climbers.
Take it for what it is worth, a night of reflection, awe and entertainment. No reason to fact check as things were all over the board.
Ease off on Royal there Mr McGee, or is it McGoo?
Have at it mates!
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Modesto Mutant
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 10, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
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Hi Dingus, I'm not Robbins apologist but I did work for him for a few years back in the 1970's, and got to know him and his family well. My comment was more to the side of seeing RR have a more compassionistic take on things compared to some of his previous dispositions. But I do have to admit that I have great admiration for him so my view may be a bit clouded. Anyway, I very much enjoyed the show.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 24, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
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Got to see Valley Uprising when in Yosemite for Facelift and the audience basically was apesh#t. The other night got to see it again in Moab and expecting similar whoots and hoots, but the audience was very sedate even when the local boy Dean Potter was featured.
They gave away prizes at the end and Daphne won an awesome day pack by North Face.
The show was introduced by Royal Robbin's daughter who lives here in Moab. She looked so much like her mother.
A fun time had by all.
Susan
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 24, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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I enjoyed it quite a bit. It's an overview, a general outline if things, I thought it covered wide ground pretty well.
Daphne as first raffle winner in Moab showing!
That pack has been to castleton and through entrajo canyon now!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 25, 2014 - 09:12am PT
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That pack has been to castleton and through entrajo canyon now!
I knew you'd take advantage of her booty. ;)
Susan
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Oct 25, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
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I enjoyed watching the "Valley Uprising" last night. A colleague who had seen it previously in the Valley thought it was substantially different. Are there different cuts being shown? When can we expect the Director's Cut available on DVD?
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 25, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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^^^^ Yes, I believe you are correct. The version I saw in Moab was slightly different than Yosemite. I didn't find it "substantially" different. More subtle.
Susan
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 25, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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Something about chix?
And that back is on it's way to the bay via otto's approach; no booty was taken advantage of.....:)
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 25, 2014 - 08:32pm PT
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Yep and oh sure
Susan
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 25, 2014 - 09:00pm PT
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[photoid=383828]
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Oct 25, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
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Jim at the Costa mesa show last nite.....we had a fun evening..
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roy
Social climber
NZ -> SB,CA -> Zurich
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Hi,
Valley Uprising came to the Zurich area last week so we had to go and see it. Ed's initial analysis is interesting and I thought that the conflict part was a little overdone. But I did enjoy the interviews with Robbins and (to the extent that you would call the excerpts interviews) Harding.
To a general audience (and maybe not too many general audiences will see this) I thought the climbers might come off in a poor light. The Chongo section seems a bit silly.
Ok - allowances for a bit of dramatic excess. It was well done and it showed the valley well. But mostly it triggered memories that made my palms sweat. And that made it worthwhile.
Cheers, Roy
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Finally saw this on Saturday at the Boulder Int'l Film Festival. I liked it a lot. I thought that Steve Roper was absolutely hysterical and the bits on Harding were priceless...particularly the whole living with his Mom thing.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I was disappointed that Peter Croft was not given any screen time or recognition. Seems like he was the leading climber of his day, and set the stage for Potter and Honnold, etc., so even a brief mention would have been appropriate.
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