Fixed lines on Merriam's North Buttress

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Messages 21 - 26 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
dufas

Trad climber
san francisco
Sep 19, 2006 - 09:51am PT
5.8? really?
i'd been a bit nervous of that one after reading trip reports of very loose big blocks, and 10c at altitude kind of makes me sweat sitting here. but if overstated, please elaborate. Went up to do it once, but bronchitis kept me wracked up in pain at camp so I just got to drool at it. Yes, I'm a dufas. It is such a sweet line, like the direct line on feather just over from it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Sep 19, 2006 - 09:59am PT
Big deal if you fix in the BC. Just take it down after a reasonable time.

I used to get my panties in a bunch from fixing in the BC. Ruining the wilderness experience. Now I try to figure out the reasoning first before hector projectoring onto others how they should experience the world. I said try, not that I always do. Especially online.

Now how about those copperhead placements for putting in a bolt?
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Sep 19, 2006 - 10:05am PT
I did the climb in august with Ultrabiker and another. I would add the following comments.

If you think the climbing on the upper section is 5.8, you are probably from New Paltz?

Each of us had our own reaction to the fixed lines (we knew they would be there 'cause the trail crew guys told us when we passed them at work.) Personally I was a bit put off that they would do that. BUT, we decided to pay the whole thing no mind and have fun, which we did. At the time we were there the ropes did not interfere or get in the way, perhaps they got moved around later.

I do agree with the OP, that this would be an unfortunate trend to see develope... even at roadside crags let alone in the back country.
Old_Duffer

Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead
Sep 19, 2006 - 10:22am PT
Cochise Stronghold IS a little TROLL. HE does have WARTS !!
clustiere

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2006 - 11:22pm PT
oh Graves. go climb a rock
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2008 - 12:31am PT
The rout is good and it is likely .10-
Messages 21 - 26 of total 26 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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