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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 29, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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This is the type of expedition I wish I could sponsor. Go team!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Aug 29, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
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Just watch out for those bent cam cables. Could be deadly.
But it was bent greater than 13.253 degrees and according to my metal alloy analysis of the ongoing investigation you're an idiot and you need to ask yourself one thing: would you let your grandma fall on that cam in a horizontal placement with a 33% rope stretch factor 2 fall!?!?!?
Ha! That was my first time jumping into the MP forum ind it got aggressive!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 29, 2014 - 02:40pm PT
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Only micronut and limpingcrab could give us a pre-trip report this entertaining. I can hardly wait for the debriefing.
John
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 29, 2014 - 02:52pm PT
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You fellas have a blast up there. What a line. I liked it better than the W ridge, which is also grand, but doesn't have that smooth and spiraling bend to it like the N ridge does.
Something pleasing about that long, ascending curve. Something cosmically graceful about it. You look up at it on the last hour of the approach and think excitedly, "I get to amble on up that!" What a good line should evoke!
Edit: photo from 8 Aug '09. Would be curious to see how the glacier is this season.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 29, 2014 - 03:01pm PT
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Mongrel, thanks for the beta. Who is this Peter Croft? Is he fast? He sounds European.
classic!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 29, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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Only micronut and limpingcrab could give us a pre-trip report this entertaining. I can hardly wait for the debriefing.
Just remember I called the briefs first, preferably with autographs. But if they don't get the record, you can keep them.
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Aug 29, 2014 - 04:26pm PT
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You guys are all way off. Light and fast=meth. No food, no shelter, no teeth....its go time!
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Aug 29, 2014 - 11:20pm PT
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Was up there today, if you draw a line from the blue ice on the left of the photo le Bruce posted and take it horizontally all the way across, that is about the level it is at. Quite depressing.
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phylp
Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
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Aug 30, 2014 - 10:08am PT
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I am planning that same route with a partner in another two weeks. Maybe we should team up and climb it as a party of four? Then we could divide the weight. I'll carry the camera and take photos and you other three can carry the water, food, ropes and gear. That seems fair to me.
Phyl
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cornel
climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
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No self respecting speed attempt would be complete without a grade 7 haul bag for each climber with a minimum of 2 cases of beer, 24 oz. cans of course. I think I would take 5 cams of each size and a full pin rack w/5 of each pin, 25 beaks, 50 heads, all hooks too. So with everything previously listed you should be good to go.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Why not take the NW ridge instead? Much more fun and easier on the feet...
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Barbarian
climber
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Would be curious to see how the glacier is this season.
Sorry to say that the state legislature has melted the glacier to deal with the drought. Seems that one its members has a farm in the Central Valley and needs the water to grow almonds.
There is no truth to the rumor that the missing glacier was the result of climate change. The earth has always been, and will always be, the same temperature.
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crøtch
climber
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hot off the presses at Alpinist!
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Run the PDL and really go for it!
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!