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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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hanger on bolt
its in a really dumb spot cuz you can clip another one in about 8 feet
I did'nt see that bolt and was just about to run it off the piece way up right when i spied it. most bolts on that route are in choad condition inc. 3 out of 5 anchor bolts at the top of the first pitch.
EE
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Who takes a bolt kit on an established route? WTF? Is 2014 1984? I don't get it.
Well if EE says "most of the bolts on the route are in choad condition," maybe some of those original bolts should be replaced.
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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I think that the bad bolts are fine
prolly 2nd generation smc hanger with 5/16 screwtop with tons of rust.
just the new one is bad style cuz its 2 feet from a bomber crack
that place is run out ...and thats the price of admission
E
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I don't think the bolts on it right now are the originals. I replaced the originals with KP way back when. It could be (can't remember) that the current bolts aren't stainless. If they do get replaced again, it needs to be with stainless.
The belays on Sundance are a mess, at the end of both P1 and P2. E says 5 at the end of P1, and when I did it recently I remember the same. Let me guess, there is supposed to be a set for the climbing party, and a different set for the rappelling party, plus a spare or two? Perhaps this is a side effect of Sundance having been set up as the Sunshine rapp route? Messy, should be cleaned up. The superfluous bolt should be removed, with extreme prejudice. OK, I'll rephrase that, it should just go away. Good gear right by it, and gear is needed for pitches 1 and 3, it's not like it's a single gear placement on a three pitch route.
I don't think the present generation is responsible for this one, and they weren't part of the FA. Should have left it alone.
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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good stories Dean!
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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FFA of the Plank, BG did the FA as a mixed route.
Check out the top of the Pirate. Looks good, eh?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dimes.... I know you have more.
post em up
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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nice solo on Arcy Farcy!
More photos would be awesome!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Cell pic of a print from late 80s when I was a teenager. At the time I lead it, my Uncle had been pushing me. I had some doubts, but figured it would get easier higher up. He wasn't sure at all, and I thought about my skills at the time (maybe hubris), but managed it. Getting that done at the place where I learned what real slab was on the Weeping Wall, well that was such good stoke I started thinking about more road trips... and maybe the Valley.
Like many others before me, Idyllwild was the launching point to other amazing rock destinations.
Makes ya just want to get out and climb!!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mungeclimber, you forgot to name the route in your picture, so some people may not recognize it.
A little puzzle like that is kind of fun, although it only took a couple of seconds. Three dead giveaways in the pic, the most interesting being the black knob right on the skyline.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Henny-
Was the Plank the thin RP crack start just climber's right of the Pirate? Or is the one I'm thinking of one more climb right?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Maybe you're actually remembering the start of the Pirate? The only real RP seam in the area would be the Pirate. Then again, now I can't seem to remember if any of the other things to the right take RPs for their start - but nothing is striking at that size like the Pirate. Walk The Plank starts with the 5.7 layback variation into Captain Hook (finger size), but then, rather than stepping right into Captain Hook proceeds straight up to the seam/thin crack where the picture was taken.
That picture makes one want to get on the Pirate. Looks so good. If you look carefully you can even see chalk on the RP section of the Pirate, going diagonally up from near the rope to where the crack becomes pronounced.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I think KP and DE are hoarding stacks of pictures. C'mon...
Certainly a regret not having taken more pictures over the years. Always too busy trying to get up something. Lucky that some people like DE and KP did go to the trouble though.
One route I wish there were pictures of is Burning Down the House. But I guess even if we had a camera it wouldn't have mattered. KP and I did that in the evening, basically topping in the dark. We had stashed our packs at the toe of the Buttress Of Cracks knowing we were going to be really late coming down. When we went to pick up the packs it was already pitch black. That turned into a mini-epic. Must have stumbled around in the dark searching for those stupid packs for a good half an hour or more.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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hint - a face for a big ball of gas!
heck, anyone interested in Suicide would already recognize it.
slab4lyfe
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Agreed, if you've climbed up there enough you'll recognize it.
I have a couple more, then I'll be forced to threaten KP if he doesn't post something. I know he even has an original Smoke Detectors Save Lives shot somewhere, I think with RV and JL in it.
This would be? I know, an easy guess. So for bonus points, name the climber belaying - someone with historical significance at Suicide.
A testy little thing beneath the Smooth Soles...
The angle is off in this picture unfortunately. Nonetheless. This route is, IMO, one of the best at the grade at the entire crag, and certainly on the face.
BG - with everything you've done on the South Face, I'm betting you have some pictures stashed away. Cruxifiction?, Hell's Angel? Post 'em if you got 'em.
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Friend
climber
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This thread keeps getting better and better. Keep it going guys. Love the stories and photos.
Tom on the Guillotine, Steve on the WEt Dream, photos by me
me on Etude, photo by Epperson
This the shot you're thinking of Darrell? This was in R&I #19. About as classic as they come..
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