Discussion Topic |
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Messages 1 - 216 of total 216 in this topic |
henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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If you don't donate a dime, how will you ever pull on a dime?
Mike Graham on, well, it's pretty obvious...
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 12:45am PT
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South Face
Eagle Pinnacle
Sunshine, left side
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 12:57am PT
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Always wondered what led to a name like Arpa Carpa. Nice little historical tidbit.
The far left isn't half bad, Arpa Carpa, Wild West, Wild Women, Wild Gazongas. Most people probably don't make it that far left. Too bad.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jul 28, 2014 - 05:48am PT
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Jeez, Ed, maybe you should reconsider your thread title (add the word rock). I was preparing myself for something much more greusome . . .
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 28, 2014 - 08:11am PT
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Me too....I was expecting a selfie taken just as the trigger was pulled.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 28, 2014 - 08:23am PT
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love this thread already!
edit: had to find my picture of me Aid practice on insomnia 2007!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 09:20am PT
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Quiz time, don't DQ yourself by looking at the internet or a guide...
1. Name 4 routes that are still aid. Don't include Double Exposure as it has a free start.
2. What activity was in vogue for many years, shortly after crossing the stream (up), or shortly before crossing the stream (down).
3. Name three routes that utilize a tree to get started.
4. What route has the longest name?
5. What activity was in vogue for many years in Humber Park?
6. Name four routes where Tom Gilje was a member of the FA.
7. What was the reason for the working name "Smoke Detectors Save Lives"? What was the route ultimately named when it was completed?
8. Name ten routes, 5.10 or harder that have been free soloed. Probably no definitive list here, so it'll be interesting to see what pops up.
9. What tree "object" was visible for a few years. Near the Weeping Wall hang.
10. What route was done ahead of its time in 1971? Who drilled the psycho bolt?
11. Who was the falling climber that hit his head and swallowed his tongue? Who was the climber that had the presence of mind to fish the wiggly worm out, thereby probably saving a life? Bonus: what was the name of the route?
12. This is visible from the south face on a really clear day.
13. Complete this early 80's saying: "Ho man, there I was, * * *, * * *, didn't know what I was gonna do".
14. What "object(s)" started at the roads end, but somehow mysteriously rolled down to near the stream crossing. How did DE get them down there (haha)?
15. Identify the two bolts that long held the distinction of being the most notorious spinners.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 09:27am PT
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I know one, but only because I was looking at Munge Dihedral so That don't really count. Can't wait to see what pops up.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 28, 2014 - 09:58am PT
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Way cool you had ANY photos, Tad. Whatever ones I had, long gone.
From last summer's road trip to SoCal.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:05am PT
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That trivia quiz looks good! Deserves a thread of it's own?
#2, has to be sparking up
#5 is it a mundane answer, like bouldering?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:16am PT
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#2, Haha, that answer is probably still in vogue. The activity was stopped by actions of the water district.
#5, Not bouldering, far more serious consequences.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 28, 2014 - 10:22am PT
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#5....unprotected sex, I remember it well.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Jul 28, 2014 - 11:21am PT
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^^^
What's that donini? The sex or the consequences?
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
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I know a some...
1. Forest Lawn and I'm pretty sure there's one or two left on Eagle Pinnacle.
2. Safety stops...?
3. Johnny Quest (to start the stemming corner); It's been a couple years but doesn't Serpentine start on that oak tree?
8. Johnny Quest (Clark for sure), 10K Gold (heard Bob G did it), Insomnia, the Pirate, Frustration
12. The Pacific ocean
That's all I have without cheating.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 28, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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1. Name 4 routes that are still aid. Don't include Double Exposure as it has a free start.
Forest Lawn and I can't think of anything else on Suicide
2. What activity was in vogue for many years, shortly after crossing the stream (up), or shortly before crossing the stream (down).
Bivying
3. Name three routes that utilize a tree to get started. Flower?
7. What was the reason for the working name "Smoke Detectors Save Lives"? What was the route ultimately named when it was completed? A knob the size and shape of a smoke detector was "lassoed" (lead rope was "looped" over it, to provide protection.
8. Name ten routes, 5.10 or harder that have been free soloed. Probably no definitive list here, so it'll be interesting to see what pops up. Revelation, Sundance, Ten Karot Gold, Pink Royd, Hesitation, come to mind.
9. What tree "object" was visible for a few years. Near the Weeping Wall hang. Remnants of the tree that got chopped during rock fall back in early 1990s.
14. What "object(s)" started at the roads end, but somehow mysteriously rolled down to near the stream crossing. How did DE get them down there (haha)? two water tanks. I don't think de was solely responsible for rolling them down on their side. For a long time prior to their moving, everyone used to throw rocks at them to hear the loud noise they would make.
15. Identify the two bolts that long held the distinction of being the most notorious spinners. Rebolting Development is one.
Without cheating or devoting the entire morning, this is my best guess. Unlike some of us, I freely admit to a failing memory.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 28, 2014 - 01:17pm PT
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What activity was in vogue for many years in Humber Park?
Bong loads + hacky sack.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 28, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
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Bong loads and sleeping bag bivies.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 28, 2014 - 01:44pm PT
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^^
I though New Gen was a Yaniro/Leversee route (no guidebook at work, aside from MtnProj...and I ain't no cheater anyway)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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1. Forest Lawn and I'm pretty sure there's one or two left on Eagle Pinnacle. Yeap, good enough. 50% there, Forest Lawn and Baby Eagle (or some name like that - Fry route on EP.) Still missing two obvious ones.
#4, "Man That Fell To Earth" isn't long enough.
7. A knob the size and shape of a smoke detector was "lassoed" (lead rope was "looped" over it, to provide protection.
Yes. Ultimately to become "Hit It, Ethel"
8. Johnny Quest (Clark for sure), 10K Gold (heard Bob G did it), Insomnia, the Pirate, Frustration
Revelation, Sundance, Ten Karat Gold, Pink Royd, Hesitation, come to mind.
Good progress. I'm thinking RV may have been the first on 10KG though. Who did the Royd - don't remember hearing that.
9. It was some sorta shiny silver metallic sphere hung up in the branches with cords or string, like a giant Xmas ornament or a stray sputnik Close enough. A metallic helium balloon that had drifted into the area and become entangled in a tree.
#10, New Gen is post '71, too late.
12. The Pacific ocean Way close. Looking for something in the PO though.
two water tanks. I don't think de was solely responsible for rolling them down on their side. For a long time prior to their moving, everyone used to throw rocks at them to hear the loud noise they would make. Correct. But, uhmmm... I don't think any of the rest of us could ever have been persuaded to engage in such criminal activity. The preferred method was to make like a hamster in a wheel and stand inside while rolling.
15. Rebolting Development is one Correct. Half way there.
New Gen is Graham/Sorenson. Tony did Race With the Devil, just left of The Gen.
For sure - if people have photos, post 'em up.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Jul 28, 2014 - 02:06pm PT
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All guesses~
#4 something related to zucchinis,
#8 Pirate Crack - Reardon
#10 Rebolting Development
#12 Catalina Island
#15 They're not supposed to spin?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 02:34pm PT
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#4 something related to zucchinis,
#8 Pirate Crack - Reardon
#10 Rebolting Development
#12 Catalina Island
#15 They're not supposed to spin?
#4 - Zorro Zucchinis From Alpha Centari Four
#8 - Yes.
#10 - Yes.
#12 - Yes.
#15 - No. haha.
Not bad for "guesses".
Nice winter shot.
#2, walking the relatively small diameter elevated water pipes that crossed the stream.
#3, some correct answers already - but was thinking Pin Head, Five Tree, and When You're a Sap.
Edit - ok, Centuri
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 28, 2014 - 02:57pm PT
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Name ten routes, 5.10 or harder that have been free soloed. Probably no definitive list here, so it'll be interesting to see what pops up.
Insomnia - Tom Gilgie and others.
Flower of High Rank - Clark has about worn that route out.
Johnny Quest - Me, and prolly many more.
God only knows what insanity Mark Wagner did up there.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 03:32pm PT
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Name this pitch. It should be pretty obvious.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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I'll second Duck Soup on that last photo.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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The climber is not 7 feet tall. You're correct about that being Insomnia in the background.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
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Last pic looks about where Valhalla should be. I was tempted to say 1st pitch of New Gen, but that book/overlap by the first bolt is missing.
I've seen folks solo stuff on the Weeping Wall that was not Surprise or Serpentine, so I'm guessing Revelation had been soloed.
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Ryans
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
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You got it! It's the start of the second pitch of Valhalla. The crux moves are right above the climber.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:45pm PT
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Valhalla. Nice. So that's what that looks like up there.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
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Duck Soup, yes. A few more I can think of, Arcy Farcy, Ours, Last Dance, Spatula Direct.
#1, besides the 2 already mentioned, the aid line left of Warm Up, and Euphoria (mixed but no free variation.)
#5, climbing one of the large pine trees to a "marked" high point.
#6, got myself, now I can only remember 3, thought I had 4 this morning. Pin Head, South Side (or is it Face?) Arete, and Hit It Ethel.
#11, Fred Zeal swallowed his tongue, E plucked it back out.
#13, ..., couldn't go up, couldn't go down, ...
#15, the other spinner was the first bolt on the intrusion of Caliente.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
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someone gave an 'uncourtesy' tilt?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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Who did the Royd - don't remember hearing that.
Same stupid person who did all WW routes one year (except DS).
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Jul 28, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
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A couple of old shots from the 80's
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
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Same stupid person who did all WW routes one year (except DS).
Right, I suspected as much. I think the last part of the sentence says it, (not the first part - haha.)
I would think The Royd would be a little sporty.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 05:11pm PT
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Since we're guessing at routes, here's a real easy one.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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Jul 28, 2014 - 05:15pm PT
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Obscured By Clouds
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 05:37pm PT
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Too easy for you Doug. Yes, obscured.
Hey, different subject for a sec, cool about night shift, eh? You did catch that little news tidbit, right? I think I'm going to do some PC stuff with her in August, get in touch if you're coming up, guaranteed to be a good time.
OK, more pictures anyone?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 28, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
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I asked E about it, "Dude, I heard this story..." He claims it was for real. "It was pipe, the Zealot was turning colors and getting ready to go down." Sounded pretty serious.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Jul 28, 2014 - 06:32pm PT
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You guys know these routes. One anecdote I remember well was talking to Gaines about Graceland. I was praising Bob for the runout to the first bolt. Very bold. I stained my shorts in the process. He then informs me, " oh Dood, , we threw the rope over the highest branch of that tree at the base to protect the first 30 feet or so." I was slack-jawed. Why didnt I think of that!!!!!
TY
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jul 28, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
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Graham crackers 2007
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 28, 2014 - 08:58pm PT
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jul 29, 2014 - 04:17pm PT
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bump.. and go for the trivia!
On the aid route list.... Flower of High rank was an aid route years before it was frreed with an "FA" first ascent? yes, Phil Warrender,
he never reported anything...
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jul 29, 2014 - 04:51pm PT
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Couple of 70's photos
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 29, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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Superfly. Yeah, always fun.
Sad how you can sort of tell if pictures are pre early 80s. The bark beetles hadn't killed a bunch of trees in the background.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
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Darn, how did I miss the quiz?
Henny is this you on belay, and is that Pat Brennan leading? (It says '81?)
I've got scores of old pics from bitd up there but only a few scanned.
I believe RV did solo Ten Karat first and I was first to solo The Flower. I have a selfie that I took at the tree.
It was later that Clark took to soloing it every day for years. How many times Clark?
Rolling the water tanks was by no means a solo effort!
I had forgotten about the pipes we used to tight rope across.
The tree climb in Humber was great, a couple 5.6/7 moves on bark to the first branches and then cruise to just below the top. It was super fun at night or on a real windy day.
The memories have been jarred and are flooding back.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jul 29, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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Early photos have healthy trees and swamis
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 29, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
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Cool DE! Montezuma's. I would say that is me on belay, I think I remember that shirt, the white painters pants are right, as is the hair for early 80s (sheesh). Don't know if it is Pat, but if your notes say so I'm sure it is.
That picture does (like most) trigger memories, eh? Grab that stupid knob over the roof above the belay and mantle like a madman, hoping you don't stall before standing up over the overhang.
Baby Cobra to the right. I still have pretty clear memories of a warm summer evening getting the pins in before you, Todd, and I bagged the FFA.
And Godzilla's just out of picture left. Remember when we did it with John Fairicks (spelling?) You were belaying John off the single bolt on the ledge at the end of P2 and I was tied into it as well. He fell off and ended up pulling you off the ledge so you were both hanging on that single 1/4". I about lost my lid watching the two of you hanging on that bolt, with me tied into it as well. Doing the only logical thing, I started to untie as fast as I possibly could. In an effort to stop me you said something to the effect of "Stop!, or I'll tell Powell." My reply was simply, "So what, he'd do the same thing." I was able to help unweight the load somewhat until John got back on, but it was exciting there for a minute.
Oh yeah, good memories. You better scan some pictures. No excuses.
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Tan Slacks
climber
Joshua Tree
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Jul 29, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
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sheepdog
Trad climber
just over the hill
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Jul 29, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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The Classic Rick Ridgeway photo
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 29, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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Anyone else remember on the approach, the sketchy fallen tree on the right side of the trail that hung over a gully, the last 20 feet were potato-chip thin? We used to see who would go out the farthest. Always figured someone would ride it someday. Scary as hell, but a great warm-up for those runouts.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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Yeah, I remember. You cared more for your life than what Powell would say, my mistake.
This one made me think it was Pat. Look at the beard!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 29, 2014 - 07:09pm PT
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bvb, yeap. That was another of the warm up activities. As would be expected that log is now long gone, at least the section sticking out over the hill. I think the log is/was the money tree as well, and that part of it is still there.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
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I remember RV on the ledge with me, elbow to elbow. We both have almost identical shots but RR...? We must have all been there.
He got the money shot though.
Yes, Lynnie was on fire.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2014 - 07:16pm PT
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Bob V. B. that was the same tree that had all the dimes (coins). You had to duck under on the hike up and then drop the pack and go out and Hang Ten.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 29, 2014 - 07:20pm PT
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I've got pics from the First Free Lead of Ishi as well. I was belaying but either I snapped a couple or someone else did so with my camera.
Wasn't Powell at a different angle with a camera?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jul 29, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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Ahhh, man...EdBannister...I can't believe how nostalgic this thread is making me. I love that place, spent a buttload of time there through the years, and can't wait to get back there again.
Thanks,
Tom Patterson
"mooser"
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 29, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
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I don't think I've ever seen your Ishi pictures - it would be way cool to see a few of those.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 29, 2014 - 10:57pm PT
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Off White should get in on this. I know he's holdin'. Many 70's pics.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 29, 2014 - 11:08pm PT
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Alan Nelson shot this photo of me the last time we did Valhalla together. Spring 1978 or 79. The Freind he got from Jardine in front of the MRB for 22 bucks might help date it. Aside from a couple of Woodson rendezvous in the 80's, and a one-day visit to Capitol Reef in 1993, it was the last time we climbed together, that I can recall.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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Sick sick sick!!!!!!!
Best new thread ever! Keep it Rollin!
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Jul 30, 2014 - 01:30am PT
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really fun…
"Who did the Royd - don't remember hearing that."
Eric Mckinley Erickson
not sure if the same person was being referred to by other means.
I watched Clark, Mari, and two others solo the flower faster than i would climb it with a cord.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 30, 2014 - 05:52am PT
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Really GREAT thread. I've just started going up there and it's just so cool to learn some of the history and see the climbs. The place, sh!t the whole area, is just incredible.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 07:57am PT
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Back in the Old Days, there were never any climbers up there.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Jul 30, 2014 - 08:05am PT
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Rob, those don't look like "real" climbers.
They look like a bunch of hippies!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 08:05am PT
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My photo of Allen Bartlett on Ten Carat Gold gracing the cover of the Indigent Idyllwild Climbers' Welfare brochure.
…love the roster of unknowns. Lots of good folk were members of the IICW. (…and who the Hell taught the "Survival course"?)
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 08:23am PT
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^^
Other than Summer trips to the Vee Notch and Mendel, the only Summer ice I remember was at the Chart House!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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rmuir.... love the shot of the WW with all parties climbing.
Who remembers the Mass Assaults Alpine Style?????
This is a killer thread, I will go home and look for some old prints....
we need to drag bullwinkle into this....
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jul 30, 2014 - 08:58am PT
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far from home-
is that the Pirate you are aiding?
Wish we would have carried cameras BITD.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:06am PT
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#3. NAWAB..
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:14am PT
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KP also has a lot of pictures he's hoarded from bitd - sort of like all those pairs of pristine EBs he STILL has. Unfortunately he rarely visits ST so we're probably out of luck on that one.
A couple more questions:
What other name was Tar and Feathers known by for quite some time?
Here's one a bunch of people should know - how did Insomnia get it's name?
Oh yeah, another solo would be Dickhead, because it was FA'd as a solo. I guess that qualifies.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:15am PT
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Surpentine in 1970, with Roy Naaz. I led that with RRs—The Blue Suede Shoe.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:19am PT
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Another, from the Suicide Party:
And the flyer:
Low Pressure, the same day, in dress whites:
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:33am PT
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curt wohlgemuth
Social climber
Bay Area, California
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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This is the best ST thread in a long time. Wow.
(My first Suicide climb was also Surprise, fall '79.)
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overwatch
climber
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:51am PT
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Great pics, thanks for sharing them. Been a couple years since I have been there
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 30, 2014 - 10:42am PT
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Does Valhalla still get climbed often?? That pic of BVB on it is so sick!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 11:11am PT
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 30, 2014 - 11:20am PT
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Robs, I'm going to take a wild ass guess. That picture may have been taken at the base of the smooth sole, right as one comes to the base of the wall. Directly beneath Ultimatum, but the rope would be running over to the start of Micky Mantle. Any chance that's possible? - assuming you can still remember what routes you did that day...
BTW, nice shirt, and hip belay.
Yes, Valhalla is still popular. I'm not sure anyone styles it anymore quite the way bvb used to though...
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 30, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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One from back in the day. Me on Valhalla in 1977.
Trying to get stood on the crux knob.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Trying to free Mecca Godzilla.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
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That, ^^^, really does look good.
Edit. Yes, Woodpecker.
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john bald
climber
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Jul 30, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
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Big thanks to Ed Bannister for this thread! Wonderful memories brought back by all the pics from Robs, Henny and Mr ee.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jul 30, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Low Pressure with hexes.....classic.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 30, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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Complete with the one danglin' on the rope that fell out at the most inopportune time!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Jeff beat me to "The Woodpecker Crack!"
I'll dig through some old pics, not sure if the old scanner works on the newer OS.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2014 - 02:42pm PT
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Dave Tapes on Iron Cross. We had a big day that day doing about 12 routes all 5.10-5.11.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2014 - 02:44pm PT
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Anyone remember doing speed ascents of Arcie Farcie?
My records show my best time was 1:38 but Tapes had the best time of :42 seconds.
Yes way.
That thing is WAY harder now.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 30, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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The Woodpecker Crack was never 5.11c on a TR. Leading, the 5.11d rating is one of the biggest sandbags at Suicide. This is before small cams. I thought I made the FA of that with EEEEE, and we kept lowering off (gingerly) funky wires and when we'd bounce test them on the deck they always popped. I finally go antsy and went for it and those greasy lybacky moves off the beveled bunyon at the end were grevious and I was telling EEEEE to watch me else the world was going to end right there.
JL
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DonC
climber
CA
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Jul 30, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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Here's a few oldies.
The Pirate photos are 1968 and Serpentine 1967. The story from my brother is the weekend after Pat Callis and Lee Harrell put up the Serpentine, Lee and my brother did it the next weekend for the 2nd ascent... who knows...
Me on the The Pirate
Hanging belay on The Pirate - scarred me to death with just several Lost Arrows in a vertical crack.
Top of The Pirate
Serpentine
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 30, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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Spencer Lennard's nude ascent of the Sunshine Face...any pics out there? We can only hope not.
Tapes had the best time of :42 seconds Tapes is light.
I finally go antsy and went for it and those greasy lybacky moves off the beveled bunyon at the end were grevious and I was telling EEEEE to watch me else the world was going to end right there.
HoMan. Looking kind of buffed in that picture big man.
Remember the total points days? You'd get the same number of points as each pitch you did was rated, ie, 5.9 = 9, 5.10 = 10, 5.11 = 11. If you ended the day with under 100 points you hadn't climbed. DE reminded me of that. Wonder what the highest day ever is.
Where's E? We need E.
Edit. Thinking about this. C'mon DE, you expect us to believe that? 42 seconds? You can't even run down the route that fast. He must not have pulled on any holds, only used his hands for balance and basically ran up it. That's ridiculous.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 30, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
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Pirate. Did it in 70
The "Hammer Tail piton lizards" kept trying to knock the pins back out.
(the blue bellies would get irritated and make a clicking noise and that became the running joke)
At the end of the crack there's a big chicken head that I lassoed with a sling and clipped the etriers into.
The plan was to end up standing on the chicken head and commence the little bit of free to finish.
When I weighted the sling the knot slowly started to unravel.
Grabbed the chicken head with both hands and didn't fall.
Never trusted a tied sling that wasn't bounce tested since.
Someone was drilling and putting up a new route to the left around the corner from us that day.
Red haired guy?
Valhalla fits the timing.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jul 30, 2014 - 09:28pm PT
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Old prints, I will keep looking for more.
So good to see folks from the late 60's getting on board, when I started in 73, you guys were so bad ass.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 31, 2014 - 01:21am PT
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Insomnia. The bats living in the crack. Anyone get that yet?
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jul 31, 2014 - 07:09am PT
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Jul 31, 2014 - 08:59am PT
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You just got it, bvb.
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Friend
climber
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Jul 31, 2014 - 09:14am PT
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Love this thread. The vintage tales and photos are so inspiring. thanks guys.
Here's a more recent shot of Rico and DEE EE EEeeeeeEEEe, passing time at Suicide.
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jul 31, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
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pix4u
climber
Sonoma, CA
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Jul 31, 2014 - 01:56pm PT
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Kironn Kid
Trad climber
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Jul 31, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
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Geez, I haven't thot of "Bullwinkle" Jim Rubidoux in decades. I scored my very first rope from him.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Somewhere out there is a pic of Brett Maurer mimicking Lynn Hill
leavitt? Mr. Randall?
post it !
one of the funniest photos ever.
and largo, you could disclose the details of the Kong boulder cover photo…..
well, you could..
sincere thanks
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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;-)
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Geez, I haven't thot of "Bullwinkle" Jim Rubidoux in decades. I scored my very first rope from him.
Not the same people..... think again.
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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I was right next tp Miller when he shot the pics of Tobin and Mike on Insomnia.
It was a bit of a circus,and Mike and Tobin were getting a bit frustrated with the photo directions ect. Classic!!!!
TY
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Is that the same Mark Miller that lives in Reno and posts here..?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
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Hensel, YES WAY! Arcie Farcie. High Speed Top Rope. Actually my notes call it "Russian Speed Climbing."
There were a bunch of people there and we kept doing laps and the time fell and fell until DT did the unbeatable at 42 SECONDS!
No handholds or footholds were used, just high speed paddleing.
Picture Usain Bolt in the 100 or Vincenzo Nibali riding the cobbles in the TDF. OK, that could be a slight exaggeration but not the :42.
June 1983.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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With The Troll on the Sunshine Face in the late afternoon, I can't tell if it's Sundance or Valhalla. Swami, Edelrid, hip belay and EB's.
Some poor fool on Insomnia.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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De …. You forgot to point out something never seen in today’s climbing…. a slack top rope.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
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My first 5 routes at Suicide were Passtime, Superfluous Bolt, Revelations, Blown Out and Bye Gully.
Drove up with Mike Graham, Matt Cox and Ed Lasley. We also climbed with E and Bill Squires March 1974. I was a junior in high school.
There is a funny story behind the Passtime ascent which I may or may not tell.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Come on ...Let's hear it...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Good point Guy! Well, I had to take my hands off the rope to take the pic.
I was just perusing the records and see your name in there bitd.
July 13, 1974. Hair Lip 10b, and Harms Way 10b with Guy Keesee, Matt Cox, Eric Ericson, Bullwinkle, Mike Pope, Peter Wilkining, Sean Curtis and "Wild" Jim Wilson.
July 1978. Iron Cross 5.11+ with Craig Fry, Mike and Mari and Guy Keesee.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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rj, I'll have to think about it for a couple of days to get it right. Somewhere else I wrote it up. I think I know where.
What was that Mike Graham thread called about going back with his son to climb some Suicide classics?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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De.... so cool that you had that "dear diary" deal going.
I had all that stuff stored in my MEMORY....
I think it crashed a few times in 1982....
I have a box of prints buried someplace, I will try to get to it.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
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I know what you mean Guy!
Mr. Hensel sir, I just dug through my main stash of old slides and can't find Ishi. I did find some cool old stuff though. Will try the scanner.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Awesome thread, thanks you guys!
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
|
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Some photos from this century.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
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When I first saw this thread, "Suicide Photos," I avoided it.
It wasn't Suicide Rock that came to mind.
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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so i was climbing sundance last weekend and found a brand new fixe bolt which someone has placed next to bomber gear. actually its higher than the gear making it better protection.
Bud couch wouldnt be happy as its really pathetic
who fired in that bolt? its the second one off the ledge now and the only big protection bolt on the route
oh and did'nt clip it.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
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Was there a hanger on that 2nd bolt? Bolts added to routes will get chopped as long as I'm still climbing there. But I am just a weekend warrior.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Anyone know about the patched 3/8" hole about 10' below the last bolt on Winter Solstice?
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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hanger on bolt
its in a really dumb spot cuz you can clip another one in about 8 feet
I did'nt see that bolt and was just about to run it off the piece way up right when i spied it. most bolts on that route are in choad condition inc. 3 out of 5 anchor bolts at the top of the first pitch.
EE
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Who takes a bolt kit on an established route? WTF? Is 2014 1984? I don't get it.
Well if EE says "most of the bolts on the route are in choad condition," maybe some of those original bolts should be replaced.
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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I think that the bad bolts are fine
prolly 2nd generation smc hanger with 5/16 screwtop with tons of rust.
just the new one is bad style cuz its 2 feet from a bomber crack
that place is run out ...and thats the price of admission
E
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I don't think the bolts on it right now are the originals. I replaced the originals with KP way back when. It could be (can't remember) that the current bolts aren't stainless. If they do get replaced again, it needs to be with stainless.
The belays on Sundance are a mess, at the end of both P1 and P2. E says 5 at the end of P1, and when I did it recently I remember the same. Let me guess, there is supposed to be a set for the climbing party, and a different set for the rappelling party, plus a spare or two? Perhaps this is a side effect of Sundance having been set up as the Sunshine rapp route? Messy, should be cleaned up. The superfluous bolt should be removed, with extreme prejudice. OK, I'll rephrase that, it should just go away. Good gear right by it, and gear is needed for pitches 1 and 3, it's not like it's a single gear placement on a three pitch route.
I don't think the present generation is responsible for this one, and they weren't part of the FA. Should have left it alone.
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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good stories Dean!
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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FFA of the Plank, BG did the FA as a mixed route.
Check out the top of the Pirate. Looks good, eh?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dimes.... I know you have more.
post em up
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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nice solo on Arcy Farcy!
More photos would be awesome!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Cell pic of a print from late 80s when I was a teenager. At the time I lead it, my Uncle had been pushing me. I had some doubts, but figured it would get easier higher up. He wasn't sure at all, and I thought about my skills at the time (maybe hubris), but managed it. Getting that done at the place where I learned what real slab was on the Weeping Wall, well that was such good stoke I started thinking about more road trips... and maybe the Valley.
Like many others before me, Idyllwild was the launching point to other amazing rock destinations.
Makes ya just want to get out and climb!!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mungeclimber, you forgot to name the route in your picture, so some people may not recognize it.
A little puzzle like that is kind of fun, although it only took a couple of seconds. Three dead giveaways in the pic, the most interesting being the black knob right on the skyline.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Henny-
Was the Plank the thin RP crack start just climber's right of the Pirate? Or is the one I'm thinking of one more climb right?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Maybe you're actually remembering the start of the Pirate? The only real RP seam in the area would be the Pirate. Then again, now I can't seem to remember if any of the other things to the right take RPs for their start - but nothing is striking at that size like the Pirate. Walk The Plank starts with the 5.7 layback variation into Captain Hook (finger size), but then, rather than stepping right into Captain Hook proceeds straight up to the seam/thin crack where the picture was taken.
That picture makes one want to get on the Pirate. Looks so good. If you look carefully you can even see chalk on the RP section of the Pirate, going diagonally up from near the rope to where the crack becomes pronounced.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I think KP and DE are hoarding stacks of pictures. C'mon...
Certainly a regret not having taken more pictures over the years. Always too busy trying to get up something. Lucky that some people like DE and KP did go to the trouble though.
One route I wish there were pictures of is Burning Down the House. But I guess even if we had a camera it wouldn't have mattered. KP and I did that in the evening, basically topping in the dark. We had stashed our packs at the toe of the Buttress Of Cracks knowing we were going to be really late coming down. When we went to pick up the packs it was already pitch black. That turned into a mini-epic. Must have stumbled around in the dark searching for those stupid packs for a good half an hour or more.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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hint - a face for a big ball of gas!
heck, anyone interested in Suicide would already recognize it.
slab4lyfe
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Agreed, if you've climbed up there enough you'll recognize it.
I have a couple more, then I'll be forced to threaten KP if he doesn't post something. I know he even has an original Smoke Detectors Save Lives shot somewhere, I think with RV and JL in it.
This would be? I know, an easy guess. So for bonus points, name the climber belaying - someone with historical significance at Suicide.
A testy little thing beneath the Smooth Soles...
The angle is off in this picture unfortunately. Nonetheless. This route is, IMO, one of the best at the grade at the entire crag, and certainly on the face.
BG - with everything you've done on the South Face, I'm betting you have some pictures stashed away. Cruxifiction?, Hell's Angel? Post 'em if you got 'em.
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Friend
climber
|
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This thread keeps getting better and better. Keep it going guys. Love the stories and photos.
Tom on the Guillotine, Steve on the WEt Dream, photos by me
me on Etude, photo by Epperson
This the shot you're thinking of Darrell? This was in R&I #19. About as classic as they come..
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Wow!!!
Thanks to both of you guys!
Friend, how did you ever, ever remember where that Smoke Detectors picture was, much less that it had been published? Oh yeah. I'm pretty sure that's the sketchy one lurking back under the pinnacle. What a hoot! Later to become Hit It, Ethel.
Etude is a sweet one isn't it?
Yes, perfection. Best rock at Suicide I'm thinking.
Edit: classic JL hip belay no doubt. "Ho man, go for it. I'll just pinch the rope. You aren't going anywhere." Can't believe there isn't a huge loop of slack in there as well - for motivation.
Edit2: Haha, the Guillotine. There was time to do what during the infamous fall?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Yeap, my guess as well. And given that KP is involved one would have to assume the whole operation was a bit on the, well, suspect side. Lasso the knob. Right, where do I get in line?
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Friend
climber
|
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It’s not the kind of photo one forgets!
Funny coincidence – I just recently scored some classic old mags from Sketchy himself. Thanks again Randy.
And re. the Guillotine... I wasn’t there but I have heard a first-hand account of the infamous Acapulco Bill whipping off that thing. Post up DE.. you always know how to spin a great yarn.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Another infamous fall, off of a route you don't want to fall on. The story goes that Bill Antel would at times pick the worst possible place, the one place you didn't want to pitch from on a route, and fall from there. So, over the edge of Hair Lip he went. Bet that was fun.
Just talked to KP, he claims he'll post something in a day or two - I wouldn't hold my breath while waiting though. He claims the second rope was in case the knob broke off, because it appeared the knob had a hairline fracture running around it. If you're familiar with that spot you'll know there is a big chasm (25/30' ?) right under it, a chimney type thing that narrows as it goes down. So in case the knob blew and you went into the "basement" the second rope might save you. Of course, it might not as well. As a backup plan in case someone went into the basement and got wedged they brought JL along, so he could yard the poor guy out. A bolt was added when it became Hit It, Ethel so it's just history at this point. Wish I hadn't missed out on that gig, sounds like it was a party.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Of course, you'd never forget it if you were around when Bill Antel was following Insomnia!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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OK Robs, I sense there is a story behind that...
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
|
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We found this route while replacing the bolts on Caliente. We had both looked over and saw the perfect edges going up the headwall and were back the next weekend to begin working on it. 2 of the headwall bolts were drilled off hooks. Then we did what we had never done before-damn this is going to be hard to write-hangdogging! Not sure who got the first shot at the crux, I think it was me and when I fell off I began barking like a dog and Henny held the rope tight instead of lowering as was customary back in those days. This was the start of several days of aerial bouldering until Henny finally pulled the crux and grabbed the "Perfect Pair". Two small knobs that hung like breasts, one even displaying a nipple like feature above the wanton men lusting from below!! Since we had never done such a corrupt and inhumane thing as hang dogging before, we decided to name the route Someone You're Not. I remember having to avoid looking in mirrors for several days afterwards as the shame of it all was pretty overwhelming!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
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Wow, fantastic stuff guys. Keep it coming.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
|
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Well, the big boys finally woke up and posted some pictures!
Get that lock E, but be careful, ..., 'cause it's pipe!
Ho momma, fire another burger on the Presto Maker.
Yeap, I went down Caliente first on the bolt replacement effort. On the way down I accidently saw the line of holds off right, but didn't say a word. As soon as KP finished coming down he walked over and simply said, "Did you see that?" My answer was just as simple, "Yes." Nothing more was said. Next weekend, there we were. What a score.
It may not look like it, but the headwall is actually quite steep. Drilling the first bolt on it turned epic since the first decent edge is so high there was nothing to hang onto while drilling. After running easy ground to get there I pulled up the Bosch and tried to drill. The problem was, I had nothing to pull in on to put enough pressure on the drill to get the hammer to engage, plus the length of drill/bit made me lean too far back. I tried hooking a heel among other things, but always felt like I was going to pitch backwards once the drill was up. Every time I would pull the trigger the drill would skate, or bounce, across the face - making me feel even more like I was going over backwards. I kept looking down into Paisano Chimney thinking, "guaranteed, that's where I'm going to end up." Of course KP had no sympathy for my whining. I finally gave up and drilled the bolt just left of me in that last picture - just so I could drill the first headwall bolt high without dying. Stupid bolt, only there because the FA party was whimpy and needed it to drill the first true headwall bolt.
At least when the drill was skating I didn't just throw it off (attached to the trail line of course) like KP did at Tahquitz. But that's a different story.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Another infamous fall, off of a route you don't want to fall on. The story goes that Bill Antel would at times pick the worst possible place, the one place you didn't want to pitch from on a route, and fall from there. So, over the edge of Hair Lip he went. Bet that was fun. I pitched over the lip on Hair Lip back in the day. Reachy move between where that fixed pin was getting to the bolt, at least for me it was and I pitched off backward. Flipped around in midair and landed on my back on the slab underneath and slid a good ten feet since my partner had a slack belay. Of course I was shirtless. The only thing going for me was that I was 16 or 17 at the time, so healed up quickly. If that happened now, I'd probably shatter into a thousand pieces.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dimes, Henny, Epi...and all.
Thanks for digging up the goods.
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Doug Tomczik
climber
Bishop
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I think the photo of Ivan up thread might be my favorite suicide photo. Great stories and photos all around! Sweet shot of Arcy Farcy, KP. And Hades...can slab get better than that?? Would love to see more photos even if they are of Darrell...
Jeez, I had read about lassoing the knob and after seeing the photo, it seems amazing that KP lived to climb another day
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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KP, I feel for ya bro. Nothing like hangdogging to bring a man down.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
|
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Wow, a lot of good action on this thread since I left for Barstow! I have more but it will have to wait till we get back from Yellowstone in a week or so.
Will post up the Acapulco B. story.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
|
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Gear of the day,
EB's and Schlitz, usually malt.
Paisano Jam Crack
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Shlitz , eb's , and the skinny swami belt...when life was simpler...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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I remember a poster or picture of Lynn Hill on the Pirate at Adventures Unlimited there in Orange. Super inspirational to a kid that only done some top ropes at Rubberdux and a couple pitches up Hard Lark, and one pitch on Weeping Wall.
Finally got to walking around that side one day after leading Spatula or Nawab (which is the corner?). Saw that thin stuff and was just like "That's impossible"
You guys doing that steep slab sh#t were beyond comprehension! Seeing that rope trick on the knob reminds me about my own rope shenanigans elsewhere (much later). Pure fun trying make things happen with your buds is what its all about!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 16, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
|
I found this one, buried in the closet. I think Im getting close to finding a whole bunch of old stuff...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
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Aug 16, 2014 - 08:19pm PT
|
Boogie Chillun chillin’ at the base of Johnny Quest, 1984/5.
Left To Right: Margie Floyd, DE, Pat Brennan, Henny, Carrie a.k.a. Old-ass Hippie, Kelly Carignan.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 16, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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Going cordless on Flower of High Rank, circa 1984/5
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Aug 17, 2014 - 07:15am PT
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These pictures and stories are awesome. Thanks for the routes, the history and the stoke!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Aug 17, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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That rope toss was no easy feat. Several of us took turns, honing the technique until, miraculously, it looped over the knob. We all gave the moves over the lip a try, but none of us were fully committed to giving it our all, since we lacked a degree of confidence in the knob's integrity. And, yes, we had a back-up belay "just in case."
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Aug 17, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
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Roy,
Great to see these shots from your archives! FOHR looks great, but I hate to admit that I never did it in the 1970s, then moved away. So, it's still on my list!
Randy-That photo is a perfect example of the laughs and adventures that epitomized the So Cal climbing experience in those days.
Rick
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Aug 17, 2014 - 11:27pm PT
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Ricky, I find it hard to believe that you never did the Flower, in fact, I'm not sure I can believe it. It certainly still needs to be on your hit list.
My schedule gave me an afternoon to swing by the little stone today. Rather hot but still good as always. Johnny and I even managed to get the bonus points for shutting the crag down (haha DE, I think I'm starting to pull away from you.) Being there late in the day refreshed in my memory how absolutely awesome the alpenglow on Tahquitz is as the sun sets. That, right there, is one of the great treats you get on a summer evening. I had almost forgotten just how rich and vibrant the color can be.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Aug 18, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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Roy, I'm with Ricky, thanks for posting the pictures. Funny thing with pictures like that, it brought back a vague memory of being there the day that group photo was taken. Only question is, where's Washoe?
Guy, who's the young looking one at the base of Rebolting? Haha. Oh, boy - sigh.
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Jamesthomsen
Social climber
Mammoth Lakes, California
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Aug 18, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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Wow Ed, thanks for starting this thread! What great memories , climbing there and sitting around the old Tarzana Mountain Shop with you, Greg B., Dan M. Jim W, and everyone else talking about the new routes just done or being worked on. I sure remember "rebolting development" being an ongoing discussion. 1971 I think?
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Aug 18, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 18, 2014 - 01:36pm PT
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Henny.... Don't remember being that young! Not with Black Hair at least.
I do recall trying Rebolting... try being the word. I fell 3 or 4 times trying to get the stand up to clip the 3rd (??) bolt.... Shawn Curtis did a great job belaying by running down hill, stopping me a few feet off the deck, every time!!
It became sort of routine.
They sure don't make climbs like that anymore.
And I like the fact that there are no helmets, what were WE thinking???
and zero belay devices, too.
Sioux .... give that one to peter hann to fix.... I recall the time we carried Bullwinkle down in the rain and gave him to the EMTs. One hour later he was back! thanking us for the carry down!!!
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Aug 18, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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good one Guy you remember..................the photo is so bad
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Aug 18, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Aug 18, 2014 - 06:19pm PT
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Yesterday I saw something that was slightly depressing. The money tree on the trail has been chain sawed out of the way. A rather large section where you used to duck under it (with the predominance of the money in it) has been freshly cut out and rolled down the hill. While it made hiking easier it somehow felt wrong.
Sioux Juan, you have a rough date for that rescue picture? Fun detective stuff - I assume it is right by the road. The shortness of the hill means it would have been back when the trail was right by the water tanks at the hard right hand uphill turn in the road, instead of down where the trailhead is now.
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Aug 19, 2014 - 04:33am PT
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henny for such a old picture you got it right. I think it was 1973 ? my first day on the rock and yes I was climbing with bull ....he had another moment on the 2nd pitch of serpentine that had me do the third pitch ! a good introduction to a first day on a rope..............
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 20, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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I promised the Acapulco Bill story and here it is. I have included several comments from Sketchy.
THE GUILLOTINE
I was 16 or 17 (1974) and still in high school when this took place. We were up at Suicide, I was there with Randy V. and Spencer L, We were over on the North side and somehow Randy ended up belaying this guy "Bill" on the Guillotine. I'm not sure how they hooked up but back then we would just troll around and get belays from anyone and everyone at the crags. The scene was small and we knew most everyone. Anywho, Bill was on the lead with RV belaying. Bill was not solid but he was driven to advance his climbing skills. It could have been the first time we met Bill.
Spencer and I were sitting down and to the right slightly from the belay ledge which is a bit above the talus, as you guys know. Bill was shaky but kept advancing up the climb in spurts. He was having trouble placing pro and a couple pieces were placed blindly from a lieback position. These were wobbleing hexes and none looked good. At some point he started running it out, he was a ways up at that point.
We watched with increasing nervousness as he got farther and farther out there. At one point he came to a fixed pin and was so sketched that he put his finger through the eye while trying to compose himself. By now, those of us on the ground were starting to freak out a bit. Randy was standing in the most ready hip belay position possible and Bill had everyone’s attention for 50 yards in both directions with his panicked moans, whimpering and yelps.
RV [He had a hex or other piece of gear about 15 feet below the roof (deep behind the "flake"). The fall Bill was facing would be long and likely cause him to swing into the flake, risking (at least it seemed to me) being sliced by the flake. Fortunately(?!), this piece pulled when he fell and he headed pretty much down the clean slab to the right of the flake. The next piece -- the one you mention next...]
It was clear that his last piece was dangerously near his halfway point, rendering a ground fall a distinct probability or worse. Spencer and I moved over to Randy’s position to assist with the belay if possible. The plan was to fling off the ledge and run downhill if Bill blew. It seemed like the only way to prevent the catastrophic event which seemed inevitable. Bill couldn’t clip the pin and just decided to go for it. You know how there are some sucker flakes that tempt the leader to abandon the main flake and go right? Well, that’s what he did, he launched out right into no-man’s land.
He made a several completely desperate undercling moves and BOOM, he was off! I looked up to see his body silhouetted against the sky and lazy coils of rope drifting down with him. Randy was yarding in rope like a madman, like someone’s life depended on it because, well…….it did! I can’t remember if they went with the fling and run, Randy would.
The sound was horrendous. He screamed and he hit the rock several times emptying his lungs. There were the ugly sounds of an accelerating mass ripping through the air like a rock falling and people screaming in the background. I might have been one of them.
(RV- he screamed and fell, stopped screaming and realized he was still falling and screamed again)
RV- (We all later joked that Bill had fallen so far, he had time to scream twice -- funny, yet true).
When he stopped he was inches from the ground.
RV-(absolutely true -- but it may have been 18-24 inches. What was amazing was that his fall line and where he stopped were free of ledges and boulders at the base).
The Riverside Mtn. Rescue Group was there practicing and before we knew it they had him strapped into the Stokes litter and he was out of there.
RV-(I recall that we may have quipped -- probably before the fall (MHU("Mobile Harassment Unit")), but I'd like to think that it was after -- that Bill had picked the perfect day to die in complete safety).
He was basically unhurt and I think he was even back in Humber that evening.
RV-(Absolutely true -- and drank more than a couple beers too).
He went on to have several more famous big ones. Years later he told me about soloing the East Face of Whitney and getting off route on 5.9 variation and almost dying again. The sad thing was he died soloing the Nose in bad conditions years later. He dropped the bag with his bivvy gear, sleeping bag etc. from near El Cap Tower but continued anyway. A bad storm came in and he died of hypothermia just below the top.
My memory of the famous day may not be 100% accurate but it’s pretty close. Randy and I reminisced about it fairly recently.
Footnote: When I soloed the South Face of the Column later the same year the only rope I could find around Camp 4 to borrow was the rope Bill fell on. Due to a mistake I made high on the South Face at one point I was facing a 300 foot fall with Bill’s rope clipped to the back of my harness! I was linking two pitches and was trying to stretch the rope to the stance, I untied the backup knot and unbeknownst to me it slipped through my Robbin’s style self belay setup. I was climbing the last 15-20 feet to the stance and looked down to see no lead rope, just a few lonely pieces of pro and the haul rope dangling below me. I was very careful on those last moves to the stance.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Aug 20, 2014 - 07:53pm PT
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Dee EE...I heard that story about Acupulco Bill from Steve Mackay back in 75...He fell so far he had time to scream twice...Never knew if that was a true story or not...? 40 years later i learn the truth...that's what i call closure...
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 20, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
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Not a whole lot better, but hope it helps
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 21, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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E stylin' the Chisolm Trail, early 80's:
Doug Munoz photo
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Aug 21, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
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Maybe a little better?
TY
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 23, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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What's the story behind the bad photo? Who's in there?
Someone is wearing a very stylish hat.
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Aug 25, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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e that's the other e ...............mostly in the photo.......... you all know AS Stonedmasters
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
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MisterE and Skip on Serpentine a couple years ago.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Sep 15, 2014 - 11:48am PT
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Just to clarify a post from Largo. I did the FFA (belayed by Chris Robbins) of the Woodpecker Crack on trad gear in the late 70's and renamed the route Tar and Feathers (Randy).
I also don't quite recall a naked ascent of the Sunshine face, but wouldn't discount that it happened.
Spencer
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Friend
climber
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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I know there’s more vintage tales and photos floating around out there.
I’ve also heard rumors of some of the ultra-desperates being dusted off, in the last couple years.
Let's see some more granite inspiration. New, old or anywhere in between...
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 17, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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I finally was able to lead Burning Down The House on Saturday. What an incredible slab, thank you Darrell!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 17, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Dave your memory is getting a little rusty.
I was actually belaying Acapulco Bill during his infamous plunge down the Guillotine. Randy showed up just in time to help me "belay" by yarding loads of road while Bill plummeted over 100 feet, landing upside down, inches from a large block.
Incidentally, Bill grabbed at least three pieces of gear before his fall, failing to clip into any of them. Randy and I were aghast.
And yes, Acapulco Bill screamed twice.
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slayton
Trad climber
Here and There
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Nov 17, 2014 - 11:23pm PT
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I'm a gumby, a numby, a fart from the start. I have no claims and no pictures. I've been away from this climbing game for quite some time since moving to SE Alaska and away from southern California where Joshua Tree was my back yard and Idylwild was literally up and over the mountain from my Palm Springs home. I feel young but it seems that those years b's etween here and then are cropping up.
Suicide. .. . .I've been there more times than I remember. I forget climbing dates. I forget climbs. I forget all kinds of sh#t. I do remember climbing Serpentine and getting all kinds of scared and then proud that I finished it. I remember soloing something easy 5.5ish with a friend and saying "no f*#king way" when the exposure became too much and the move maybe just too much with that spice of exposure and plugging gear in to see me through. I remember a stupid 5.7 off-width that left me gagging, mad, and spewing obscenities to my partners delight.
I remember a bet between a couple of friends about climbin "flower of high rank" and going up to lead it myself. I remember that climb and so many of it's particulars, the opening moves and nut placements, the tree with old webbing, the horizontal crack before the top out that nearly did me in, me gasping and yelling self deprecating BS as others stood and watched from formations a bit away. But I remember making it up that thing and I remember loving it.
I've since moved away. Climbing has taken a back seat to other things, sometimes more, sometimes less passionate. My memories, though, of Suicide, Tahquitz, Joshua Tree, they will live with me forever. And. .. .I do get back sometimes. Not as often as I would like but enough to let me know.
Thanks all for sharing. It's nice to see home and those who pioneered it.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 18, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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Now I feel old. Burning Down the House was done in '87, wow. Twenty seven years ago. Ran up a bit of flier mileage on that one trying to GU boulder it out on two bolts before finally adding the third. Good times on a great route.
What impeccable stone, could well be the best of the best at either rock.
Good job Johnny.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 18, 2014 - 12:51am PT
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Just to clarify a post from Largo. I did the FFA (belayed by Chris Robbins) of the Woodpecker Crack on trad gear in the late 70's and renamed the route Tar and Feathers (Randy).
Spencer, dude.. I don't get it, why would you want to tar and feather Randy? He's a good guy. Haha, sorry, couldn't resist. Seriously though, are you trying to somehow attribute the name change to Randy? What does Randy have to do with all this? We all know Randy has always been a trouble maker, is it somehow related to that? Please clarify.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nov 18, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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Well done, John (and Henny in 1987)!
Somebody has to have some photos.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 18, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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I recognize a lot of these routes. But it's been since 1990 latest that I climbed there. Sure do miss it, thanks for the stories and photos.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 18, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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to further clarify Daryl....the reason I placed the term "Randy" in the thread is that he (RV) is the keeper of the archives and documents the semi-recent (and somewhat silly) human history of who did what, when and how
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 18, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Thanks for the Guillotine story. That route is notorious for long falls. I was up at Suicide in the mid 80's, Largo was there guiding some Hollywood models, when someone grounded while leading. Horrible sound, he was pretty banged up. We carried him down in a Stokes litter, but never heard how he made out.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 18, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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The start of Burning Down the House is just left of the huge flake. 50 feet of unprotected climbing takes you to the fist bolt that is 15 feet left of the top of the flake. Move left and up into the main black streak for 15 feet to the second bolt at a decent hand hold, clip and mantle. This is the only good hold from the 1st bolt to about 15 feet above the third. Clip the third bolt and I step right and start climbing on the right side of the streak. Many moves of braille climbing on nothing leads to a small right hand hold that you need to get your right foot on. Falling here would be very big. A couple of easy moves right leads to better holds and an easy stroll to the top.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 18, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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This is the only good hold from the 1st bolt to about 15 feet above the third.
KP used to say that if you took all the holds from the 1st bolt to the easy moves at the end and stacked them on edge the total width would be no more than a quarter. Not far from the truth.
What a pretty slab - if one is into that kind of stuff. Even more appealing if you know just how bullet hard and clean that rock is.
Cheap Day Return is pretty good as well.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Nov 18, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
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I saw this thread and I couldn't help but wonder if this day was posted:
It was indeed around 1974, I had just moved to San Diego after a 5 year hiatus from Tahquitz spent in the PNW. All the Sierra Clubbers were long gone and it seemed everybody's attention was now over at Suicide.
I remember thinking then just how much things had changed. Little did I appreciate just how much more change would take place!!! Thanks Robs for the trip down memory lane. I met you on several occasions back then and always remember you as a kind and inclusive person, the image of you in that white robe is what I immediately flashed to when I met you again at the JB memorial, talk about change!!! LOL.
Cheers,
Charlie D.
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Nov 25, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Nov 25, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Nov 25, 2014 - 09:09pm PT
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Friend
climber
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Nov 26, 2014 - 07:54am PT
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Dimes- killer photos as always. That last one is a classic.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 26, 2014 - 08:02am PT
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Classic ...... real men ..... none of that over branded commercialized look.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Nov 26, 2014 - 03:00pm PT
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Real men except for that guy second from right.
He's still a kid (at heart)!
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Thanks to all for the very cool posts!
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Robs John Muir wins the funniest post award for his post of Kong Boulder!!
Hysterical!!
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Truth in advertising, Ed. Truth in advertising…
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Truth is, Largo has been more than kind to me.
but it was still funny, hope he laughed also!
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Can't pass a chance to re-post this…
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Awesome photo Beehay! Is that the weeping wall?
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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It is the Weeping Wall, I think about 1978.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Dec 14, 2016 - 06:30pm PT
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Werner, that pic, is that guy on the right a fireman?????
he is not grey in that one....
is it the August meadows inhabitant??
kidding aside, i climbed with Warrender, Maurer, Leavitt, Nobody was as strong as Mike Waugh. well maybe Tony.
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Peater
Trad climber
Salt Lake City Ut.
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Dec 14, 2016 - 09:26pm PT
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I didn't read all of this topic but:
On the way up the "trail" we would stop to rest at the tree hanging over the big gully. The tree started out solid then got smaller and smaller and turned into a splintered end. So we would take a piece of chalk and walk the log to see who could get out the farthest without chickening out or falling into the steep gully. I think Mad Dog Wilson got the farthest.
On the way down we'd take the detour to the 6" water pipes. They pipes were 10' off the ground thereabout on spindly supports. So if you got to wobbling your were pretty much toast. I was pretty much good at this and loved it. Tobin one time fell off and hooked his under knee then got himself up and made it across.
At the hang out spot at the base of the Weeping Wall there was a Stokes litter. We unfortunately made use of it one time but fortunately not to any dire consequences.
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Dec 16, 2016 - 06:04pm PT
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wow Wilkening!
nice! start a "new" thread?
ok
first Al Barkamps who probably thinks Castro was ok and i am bad,
and now this.. i am entertained... but disappointed.
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