Climbing Heroes


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Social climber
Jun 25, 2014 - 06:02pm PT
There's the legendary belay on K2, when Pete Schoenig [or????] held 4 or 5 team-mates who were all entangled in a death fall. A truly epic feat.

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jun 25, 2014 - 07:04pm PT

Jack Tackle. . .

Jim Donini. . .

Ask these two--they walk the walk!
The Warbler

the edge of America
Jun 25, 2014 - 07:51pm PT

Could have sworn they got down on their own, or that's what Joe told me.

It has been a good thirty years since I heard the tale.

Didn't know Joe well, is he still alive?

I'm sure he remembers some details if he is.

I just used his trick to pull old failing fence posts, with the weight of the fence and vines on them, up to new solid ones - hammer handle, slings, and all.

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2014 - 08:05pm PT
Gary Hemming's rescue of two stranded climbers on the Dru. I think Pierre Mazeaud was in on this as well or it might have been another rescue. Either way, Mazeaud upset the powers that be in Chamonix by going up when the Chamonards refused to climb. He claimed that when he was stuck on a new route on the Grand Jorasses for 13 days and his partner ultimately died it was payback from the Chamonards for showing them up.

Social climber
Butterfly Town
Jun 25, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
Joe Faint's partner was Pete Sproecker (sp?). I visited him the next day in the Lewis Memorial Hospital in YV. He was in good spirits but still in some pain. I don't think he ever climbed again. I'll go with the helicopter rescue from Sentinel's summit. It was the first major technical rescue in the Valley, I think. If I remember right, Jeff Foott was on that rescue; he's alive and well, living in and out of Jackson Hole.

I'm not sure, but I think Joe Faint has passed onward...

Social climber
Jun 26, 2014 - 12:32am PT
Definitely a chopper rescue. "I saw it with my own eyes" as they say. We must have been in C4 at the same time.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Jun 26, 2014 - 03:49am PT
Howard Doyle, a now deceased but prolific climber from the East, while on a whitewater trip noticed a trapped and soon to drown person in the river. Story has it that he immediately jumped in to the river and saved his life. Later the guy became a US Senator or some lawmaker and a good friend of Howard.
steve shea

Jun 26, 2014 - 07:03am PT
I stand corrected. Of course, the Ogre.

Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
Jun 26, 2014 - 09:54am PT
Hero bump!
colin rowe

Trad climber
scotland uk
Jun 26, 2014 - 11:45am PT
Anatoli Boukreev was awarded by the American Alpine Club The David A Sowles Memorial Award 1997. This Award recognised Boukreev's heroic efforts in repeatedly leaving the safety of his tent, risking his life to fight through a blizzard on Everest to rescue another group of climbers' stranded a few hundred yards from their tents. The following day he climbed back up to 8,400 metres, in a forlorn attempt to help his American friend Scott Fischer.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 26, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
Peter Terbush. He kept his leader on belay with tons of rock headed his way.

Agree, Gary.

I don't know about the Faint/Spoeker ascent, but Mike Caldwell (Tommie's father) and I were climbing In Cold Blood on Sentinel in May of 1973, when Mike fell and hurt himself on the "rope throw" pitch. He was able to carry on to the top, including leading free a variation I couldn't follow near the summit. When we got down, he was in a lot of pain. X-rays back in Berkeley showed that he'd taken a chip off his hip. We were tempted to name our variation "Bust your Butt," but we thought it was too trivial a variation of a major route to deserve a name.

Also, Don Whillans was thwarted on the Eiger more than once because he had to help rescue rival teams.


Social climber
your mom's house
Jun 26, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
My Uncle Dave. OG Vulgarian.

Credit: portent

Credit: BBA
Credit: BBA
Credit: portent

Social climber
Loveland, CO United States
Jul 4, 2014 - 12:37am PT
Donini for his efforts in the rescue of Malcolm Daly, Thunder Mountain, AK (1999).

Jim Davidson, self-rescue on Ranier.

This is a 5-part account that was reported in the Rocky Mountain News (Denver). Days 3 and 4 are especially riveting.

Balcarce, Argentina
Jul 4, 2014 - 09:24am PT
A few years back a local kid, Matoco Erroz, and Damian Benegas, put their own climbing projects aside to make a difficult and complex rescue on Lhotse, saving the life of a Spanish climber who, unable to continue down with his exhausted companions, spent a lone night out in the open at nearly 8000 meters.


Boulder climber
the woods
Jul 4, 2014 - 11:41am PT
Ron Kauk, Midnight Lightning, and I wish I could be as mellow as he seems.

Trad climber
Idyllwild / Joshua Tree Ca.
Jul 6, 2014 - 03:41pm PT
Anatoli Boukreeve for his actions on Everest the year Scott Fisher and Rob Hall died.

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jul 6, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
Hanky panky Caylor for have the balls to try Southern Belle and then for self rescuing when he found out the hard way that the 11d was really 12a..
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