Request for stories about Valley climbs

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Messages 41 - 48 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Appalachia
Aug 21, 2011 - 05:45am PT
Patio & Goodrich Pinnacle

I used to free-solo a lot of stuff in the 1970s. In Tuolomne I free-soloed the Great White Book about 20 times, often after a bunch of toking and often carrying an open can of Budweiser on the climb. I free-soloed the Water Cracks on Lembert. I also did a lot of free-soloing on glacier Point Apron. I even free-soloed and down-climbed the Grack in hiking boots. I always down-climbed the routes, although I used to carry a 50m rope on occasion. Down climbing really made you a much better climber. Here I am free-soloing Patio Pinnacle (no rope for the descent).

Free-soloing Patio Pinnacle, Yosemite Valley, late 1970s
Free-soloing Patio Pinnacle, Yosemite Valley, late 1970s
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat


Also did a winter ascent of the Prow over Christmas 1983 with Bill Crouse.

Anchorage Ledge, The Prow, Christmas 1983
Anchorage Ledge, The Prow, Christmas 1983
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 21, 2011 - 08:20am PT
This is an old thread!

Here is my trip report on the first ascent of Freewheeling with George Meyers and Kevin Worrall. //Freewheeling: La Direttissima per Ora Dove, in b/w, Oct 1973// I found two rolls of B/W film we had taken. Ed scanned them for me and I wrote down everything I could remember.

Selfish Man, did Barry feel up to climbing his classic "Lunatic Fringe?" I think it is so cool that Barry has started climbing again.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Retired to Appalachia
Aug 21, 2011 - 08:32am PT
Holy crap, is selfish man Barry Bates?

Hey Barry, I remember watching you crank one-finger (one-arm) pullups in the back room at the Cupertino North Face store.

How you been crazy man?

Harry
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Aug 21, 2011 - 08:48am PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1114340&msg=1114340#msg1114340

My story of soloing the Prow.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Aug 21, 2011 - 09:01am PT
SLR, Barry posts under his own name and he lives outside of San Antonio. He climbs at Enchanted Rocks, close to Austin, where Selfish Man lives. This is a recent picture of Barry, I think.

Speaking of Lunatic Fringe, sometime soon after Barry had first climbed it, I casually rode down to Reeds with Dave Bircheff to climb it, assuming, wrongly, that I was more than prepared for such a classic 5.10. We only climbed with Hexs and Stoppers, so the protection was sketchy. The crack width was outside my sweet spot by a mile and I started melting, a long way from my last good point. Then the 'Watch me' calls could be heard thought out the Valley, with increased frequency and abject terror, followed by whimpering and gasping sobs as I downclimbed pulling my decorator protection and yelling “up rope” to Dave.

Finally at my good point, I regained by manly status and announced that it wasn't a good day for climbing and lowered off, never to return.

Barry and I have remained good friends.

Bridwell said it best: "I don't like to climb with Barry: he is too strong!"
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Aug 21, 2011 - 05:50pm PT
Roger's information is precisely correct. We are lucky to have Barry around here in Texas and he is a strong and inspiring climber. But I'll shut up since he may be reading. The Lunatic Fringe photo was taken couple months or so ago.

Credit: selfish man

Credit: selfish man
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Retired to Appalachia
Sep 7, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
Great to see Barry again, still looks good!
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Sep 7, 2011 - 10:10pm PT
This thread is absolutely amazing.

Please more stories from you hard folks. These are the best.

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