Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 54 of total 54 in this topic |
whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - May 20, 2014 - 07:44pm PT
|
I was reading the speed climbing book by Hans and came across the records section...
It said that the fastest time on snake dyke car to car is 3 hours by Dean Potter.
Now if you were to SPRINT down the death slabs it would take like 45 minutes at least, right? that leaves 2:15 minutes to go from the car to the top of half dizzle?
does anyone know what kind of tactics he used for the approach/descent? he for shore soloed and didn't stop for shoes or water or break but what way did he approach?
I can see 5 hours being a realistic time for a speed ascent but 3, holy moly!
how did he do it?
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
|
dude was MOTIVATED!
|
|
Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
|
More like MOTORvated.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 08:28pm PT
|
Mountain bike.
|
|
gunsmoke
Mountain climber
Clackamas, Oregon
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 08:29pm PT
|
Last summer I made it from Mirror Lake to the base of the route in about 3 hrs.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 08:30pm PT
|
I don't know what the big deal is. I got to the base of Snake Dike in well under three hours.
|
|
Erik Sloan
climber
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
|
pretty sure he did Mist trail to Snake Dike trail between Liberty Cap and Broderick. Animal!
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 09:21pm PT
|
At least he doesn't suck.
|
|
adrian korosec
climber
Tucson
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 09:30pm PT
|
Who cares about speed records anymore?
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 09:58pm PT
|
I didn't realize Potter is into dykes.
Oh, you meant Snake Dike??
(couldn't resist)
Two hours up seems reasonable for Potter. Back in the Day I made it to Lost Arrow Notch in 3 hours with rack and ropes.
After the first 30 feet he would have run up Snake Dike. It's not nicknamed Snake Hike for nuttin'.
Potter running back down Half Dome seems plausible in less than 1 hour. Although I have to wonder how he got past the Cables Cluster F**k
Still a mighty fast round trip.
|
|
zBrown
Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 10:23pm PT
|
If the reports are to be believed, then I'd go with quickly.
|
|
wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 10:27pm PT
|
I'm old fat and slow and did it in 5. Left happy Isles at noon. Hiked the mist through the gap to base in roughly 1:45 hrs. Climbed to top in roughly 1:45, speed walked down the cables which were still up in beginning of October but no crowd and ran down the trial with two other youngun's pacing ahead in about 1:30. A kid like you should be able to fly up the trail and a god like Potter doing it in that time seems reasonable. Warbler. Don't you know of a shortcut up the somewhere to the west of the death slabs? Strenuous and slow though or not?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
|
I word....cocaine.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
|
Record for the Half Dome trail is about 2:30 or so, 3:30-4 is pretty easy for the reasonably fit. Snake Dike is a considerable shortcut. Sounds like a soft record to me.
|
|
mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 11:55pm PT
|
Deanno is so fast and fit because he has white meat for breakfast.
With cheese. :0)
|
|
couchmaster
climber
pdx
|
|
|
May 20, 2014 - 11:56pm PT
|
Classic Steve Roper description Kevin. LOL.....:"work up and left above a platform then nail right for 60 feet"....:-)
As far as it being a "soft" time...uhhhh. 14 miles, 16 miles? nahhhh.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:19am PT
|
Didn't Dean Potter do Royal Arches car to car in under a hour? That impresses me even more! Running down the North Dome gully at a sprint, cool
|
|
Ropeboy
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:53am PT
|
Potter could have done the Mist Trail and made the loop in three hours. When I was doing my best trail running I went from Curry Village, up the cables, and back to Curry in four hours. I am sure other people have done it quicker and Potter would be one of them.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 01:00am PT
|
A few summers ago, I was heading up and down the mist trail a lot. One day, I was carrying a small pack and jogging up the first part of the stairs. A SAR member blew by me running with full bullit pack, 2 qts of H2o on the back and a radio vest.
I stepped it up and followed him all the way up the stairs, which was about all I had left. He pulled away in a cloud of dust.
At the Nevada falls stairs, toward the top was a heart attack victim. The helo came in and dropped a load off and I started chatting with a ranger 100 feet below the victim.
I asked about the SAR member, and how fast he was going. He told me that he made it from the call to the top of nevada falls in 32 minutes.
32 minutes.
That was not his fastest time to the top of nevada falls I was told.
|
|
enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 01:02am PT
|
Record for Half Dome round trip is 2:28 set by Ricky Gates. That's to the top and back to Happy Isles.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 01:45am PT
|
snake dyke car to car The "car" would have to be be parked at Curry, Ahwahnee or the stables. Death slabs from Ahwahnee is probably the shortest distance, but alot of technical ground to cover - and then to retrace steps back to said "car" in under 4 hours is unlikely. Dean has the lungs of an elephant, the wingspan and gait of a giraffe, so I'm guessing he took the JMT to the top of Vernal, and veered off there (west of Broderick) poo pooing the use-trail(s) etc higher up. No biggie with the cables crowd, and loped back to Boy's town in record time.
|
|
Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 01:55am PT
|
Ya, I've done the cables on HD car-to-car in under 4 hours. (3:40 maybe?) & I wasn't in all that great of shape. You can get down from the top in about an hour.
Agreed with the Royal Arches record. I really don't see how you do that car-to-car in an hour.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 02:51am PT
|
I used to routenely run a Nevada falls loop in the 80s.
One day I saw this guy I knew at the top of Nevada, and he's all "lets run up to Half Dome."
I humoured him, and started up the trail.
He soon blew apart tho - but I felt strong still. We turned back, but I got a glimpe at least.
Propers to Ropeboy, Sheets and Warren Harding etc who actually ran it.
BTW - In 1990 I went out to try that Skywalk line, not knowing it had ever been done. It was a little chilly and breezy that day, and I completely snaileyed.
|
|
wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 03:08am PT
|
Thanks Clint and Warbler........
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 07:49am PT
|
You won't see the best athletes in the world at the Olympics, you'll find them grubbing around in Camp 4.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 09:22am PT
|
No selfies, no record.
|
|
whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2014 - 10:25am PT
|
methinks I will try the skywalk thing to the dyke then death slabs... perhaps I can beat it with a little trainen! that would be a fun activity, I guess :)
thanks for all the info! that pic clint posted is rad! I am going to print out and laminate!!
thanks!
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 11:10am PT
|
I believe the Royal Arches car-car record is 2-ish hours, Cedar Wright.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 11:29am PT
|
I'd say the only question is whether he actually even touched the cables.
Wouldn't that be like not calling a bank shot but still counting it?
|
|
snakefoot
climber
cali
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 11:33am PT
|
royal arches has also been climbed in 33 min in a pair of vans skate shoes, without the penj aid.
|
|
Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 11:37am PT
|
Regarding Royal Arches, its clearly not 'car-to-car' but motivated after reading Hermann Buhl, Roper climbed it solo (mostly unroped) in less than an hour in the Summer of 1961.
|
|
Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 11:49am PT
|
Here is a great link to a recap of the run made by Ryan Ghelfi who held the record prior to Rickey Gates with a time of 2:30:26 of Half Dome CtC. He provides advice on managing the run and strategy per each section. Pretty inspiring stuff!
http://yosemiteexplorer.com/yosemite-news/080623-half-dome-record
In the comments section, another runner who did HD in 3:20 CtC provides an interesting benchmark: He runs a (EDITED) 1:40 1/2 marathon at sea level. So that's pretty darn telling...
And on speedclimb.com, Cedar Wright is listed as blowing the doors off the RA CtC in 0:52:26. Holy Sh&T!!!!!
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/royal.htm
|
|
macleodnc
Trad climber
ca
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:00pm PT
|
Probably the same way Cedar did Royal Arches car to car in 52 minutes, reaallly fast.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
|
He runs a 1:40 marathon at sea level....don't think so. That would be 23 minutes and 2 seconds better than the fastest marathon time ever recorded.
|
|
Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
|
Great catch Jim. And yep, I'm an idiot. Or, at least an under-caffeinated normal person.
Under further examination, that commentor said that they run the 1/2 marathon in 1:40 at sea level. That wasn't Ryan Ghelfi either, but just someone in the comments section below.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
|
Al, fastest half marathon is 58:23.....looks like that Half Dome time can be approved upon.
|
|
Al_Smith
climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:53pm PT
|
Ryan Ghelfi is quoted as saying he believes it could go in 2:10.
Rickey Gates thinks 2:10 is a bit too optimistic, "The potential for others to drop the time is most certainly there...to 2:10? I think that's far fetched. Maybe 2:15-2:20. I'd love to be proven otherwise though."
Interestingly, Rickey Gates' record time of 2:28:18 was made on his first ever time running the trail (let alone hiking it..as in, first time ever up there.)
He power hiked the steps below Nevada Falls (which he believes should be run, but notes he was feeling somewhat tired in the legs from the accumulated training he had done over the previous few weeks.)
While it seems that there is room to improve on these times, it should also be noted that Hari Mix (2:38:21) ran for Stanford, Ryan Ghelfi also ran in college, and Rickey Gates is an actual horse-man. Portion of his resume below:
 1st at Mount Washington Road Race in 2009 - finished in <1 hour.
2007 USA Track and Field Mountain Runner of the Year
1st US Mountain Running Championship 2007 (Mt. Cranmore)
1st U.S. Trail Championship 2007 (Steamboat)
((THE ABOVE TWO WERE RACED IN BACK-TO-BACK WEEKS!!!))
4th at Sierre-Zinal which is perhaps the most competitive mountain race in the world.
So, I believe that should the time be bettered (which one look at Nose records would suggest it will be) it will likely come from a professional trail runner, and not a climber (although I'd love to be proven wrong.)
Perhaps, Kilian Journet or someone of that caliber will give it a go?
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
|
Put some real money into it and watch the East Africans bring it down to sub 2:10.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
|
The only thing that really matters is what time YOU can do it in.
Let's blow off the obsession with celebrities and numbers and worry about our spirit in the mountains.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
|
Okay....fair enough, I think that I can do it in sub four hours at age 70.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
|
I believe you!
|
|
fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 03:07pm PT
|
^^^ who's obsessed with celebrities?
|
|
John M
climber
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
|
when I was running I could do sub 6 minute miles on some average steep trails. I have run to the top of half dome, but I didn't time myself and I took an hour break at the top. I know that I could have done the downhill in an hour, its that last 2 miles uphill that would probably be a problem.
What I am interested in was Dean's time. Lets say that he could have gotten to the base of the dike in an hour and 15 minutes. And he could get back in an hour. That leaves 45 minutes or so for the climb. What do people think? Is that possible? That is a lot of slab.
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
|
John,
I was just checking out the topo map for 0.5 Dome. The Snake Dike rope up - for those who use such things - is at about 7,400 feet. The Dome is just over 8,800 feet. For someone fit and fast, 45 minutes should be no problem.
g
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
|
^^^ who's obsessed with celebrities?
Not me fluff, Donini is a friend and a fellow special ops man, and he's pretty farging amazing at 70 years old.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
|
I believe much of it coincides with the old "Diving Board - West Side" route.
If I remember rightly, Roper described that route as "one of the most worthless in the Valley[!]"
Also, didn't Harding do a sub three-hour round trip from Happy Isles to Half Dome when he was in his mid-40's?
Then again, about 20 years ago I did an eight-hour Fresno-to-Fresno round trip to Half Dome, because I had a golfing date in the afternoon.
John
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
|
didn't Harding do a sub three-hour round trip from Happy Isles to Half Dome when he was in his mid-40's? 3:50:00 - Warren Harding. 1950s ( no water!)
from
http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/trailrun.htm
(Note: Hans has not updated it with the latest Half Dome trail records).
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
May 21, 2014 - 04:48pm PT
|
I could do sub 6 minute miles on some average steep trails. ...in Kansas, on the way back down...
Breaking 10 minute miles (on average, going up) on trails like HD is elite, especially if you toss in some real altitude - which the HD trail does not have. Do the math to confirm.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
May 22, 2015 - 10:58pm PT
|
bump
|
|
| Messages 1 - 54 of total 54 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!