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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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Mt. Huntington SE Spur - about 36 hours on the successful summit bid, 1977. (took something like three days to get down)
1-day winter ascent of the Grand Teton (likely late '70s-early 80s) - might have been the 1st or 2nd. Didn't keep track of the hours back then.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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"1-day winter ascent of the Grand Teton...might have been 1st or 2nd."
That's a highly competitive thing amongst you locals. Good on you.
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Jack Burns
climber
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Desert Shield - 12 hrs car to car, even though we hauled food for three days and a portaledge.
Sheer Lunacy - 7 hrs
Touchstone - 6 hrs
Shortest Straw in two bivies, 2nd El Cap route
Spaceshot - 6 hrs
Not speed climbing, efficient climbing.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Who-dun-it 30 min.
Juan
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2008 - 02:15am PT
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Amigos, there's some tight accomplishments in this list.
The amount of energy this represents is astounding & Inspiring!
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Al_T.Tude
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Tami - Thanks for correcting the story that I've been telling amout Peter getting knocked off the final 5.4 traverse of Royal Arches onto the brushy ledge below while soloing - prompting the First Rule of Yosemite Climbing: "Thou Shalt Not Fall on Peter Croft While He Is Soloing".
Despite my considerable admiration for your ex-beau (I have an ex from Naniamo B.C. also), I'm afraid that his 24 hour slowest climb on The Arches is not even close to the dubious honor of besting my 37hr 20min differential between slowest and fastest.
Cheers to you and thanks for all the fun that you've poked at us and our sport over the years!
Al
Pierre - I will never match your choice of routes or times, but your achievements are inspirational and I assure you that they will fuel my efforts at my own level.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Hey Todd, I went running in that very same 1990 Iteration PBC shirt, this morning. Smoked no cigarettes, though.
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
hither and yon
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Hmm...
Space Shot in a day solo
Epinephrine 3 hrs CtC
SW face Mt. Conness dawnish to duskish - we got back in time to grab dinner at the Toulumne lodge
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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A few years back in the Alabama Hills this guy named Hans had set up two 5.7 top ropes side by side for all comers. I had never thought much about climbing fast, but late in the day I gave one a try.
Didn't go so well, but I figured I was warmed up and could improve it on the other. Now this fellow Hans was used to counting out seconds, and maybe he lost track of how many times around the dial it took me. What he said was, "That's the slowest today."
Anyway, it was late so I set about cleaning hardware off the anchors. Not much of a sport climber either, so while I was sizing up the task this guy named Bridwell sidles over to the Hans dude and in a loud stage whisper says, "He doesn't know how to get down."
Which at that moment was right, though I didn't think anyone was still timing things. And of course I owed some of my mental dexterity to the hippie lettuce.
All of which makes me a tad relieved that someone mentioned downhill times. Now we're talking.
Palisades trail: Third Lake to roadhead, 43 minutes. Several of us whittled away at the time over the years, and that was my personal best.
Maybe I bragged about it a tad too much, though. Shouldn't have mentioned it to Peter Horvath, a former star of the Hungarian national soccer team. He smoked it onsight in 38 minutes.
I skied the Sierra High Route in 22:05. 11,300' up and 13,300' down over maybe 40 miles. But, like blazing up that rock pitch in the Alabamas, this one too was drug-aided. That was mid-80s; I think someone has recently gone faster.
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Double D
climber
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I'm always amazed to hear about speed records. Kim Schmitz and Bridwell used to always harp on about speed, but it just didn't seem to match much of what we were climbing unless we were doing a grade IV in a day.
I once emailed Ammon to find out how he did his wall records, the strategy and such. I can see it on clip-ups that get done often, have lots of fixed gear or at least plenty of beat-out cracks for placements. What boggles my mind are some of the ones that don't see much traffic getting done quickly.
When Dale and I did the second ascent of Zenith we had a flash-flood cut loose while Dale led the 3rd (A4) pitch. Some poor guy was right at the apex of the 5.6 section of the slabs approach and the waterfall washed him down. So we finished the pitch, rapped and helped get a rescue going.
Long story short, when we returned the following day, we finished the route in 2.5 days. Greg Child, who did the third ascent, pulled me aside one day and was amazed that we really did it in that time. Pondering it over Dale and I had just gotten off of Sea of Dreams and been climbing a lot in the meadows together so we just were fluent together. We really didn't focus on speed, it was just a result of honing our systems together, and of course I didn't let Dale be in charge of the water and food rations...EVER! (-;
It's great to see the successive generations get stoked about speed but when I see reliance upon single points of contact being used, like a pendulum that’s not backed up by a belay or anything else, it just seems to go against the grain of climbing safety.
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Al_T.Tude
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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Adventure Sports Journal printed Doug's amazing story of his High Route speed ski a few months ago. It's a terrific read.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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My big speed goal is usually to make it back to the car w/o getting out the headlamp. Ankles and knees have nearly been sacrificed in order to push this envelope.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
all bivied up on the ledge
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Royal Arches 2:06 car to car via NDG. Did it before work and got chewed out for being 3 minutes late. I thought I'd get some flack for showing up dirty, sweaty, and smelly, but it was the lateness that the boss complained about.
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Royal Arches 53 Minutes Car to Car
South Crack 13 minutes Car to Car
Steck Salathe 4.5 hours to summit with Rob
Reg on Half Dome 6 hours with Micah
Eagles Way El Cap 26 hours with Trundles and Micah
First Ascent Camp Four Wall Free with Magoo 6 hours ?
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rmuir
Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Riverside to Bakersfield in 1 hr. 50 min., via the Tehachapis, in a BMW 2002 in 1970.
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Jan 23, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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In the early 80's we climbed so fast on the Sun Ribbon we had to sleep on the mountain. It was pitch black and we could not find the chimney at Contact. We watched the sunrise from about 30 feet from the chimney at the pass.
We took our time taking it all in. When we got to our camp at Third Lake, one of our group was eating my breakfast. He just looked at me and said "I didn't think you guys were coming back".
The only thing we did fast back then was the drive on 395.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Jan 23, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
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An afficianado of the Pete Z. Speed climbing school.....
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Jan 24, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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I once soloed the East Face route on Whitney , base to summit in 45 minutes.
BITD Mike Harbison and I left LaVerne at noon and were checking into the Park Oakland Hotel at 4 for an AAC meeting. My Honda Accord never skipped a beat. I miss that car.
Tony
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