Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 12:56am PT
|
We put up Helm's Deep on Power Dome above Helm's Creek.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 12:57am PT
|
interestingly, I just went through the 2300 route names in Yosemite Valley and didn't come up with any...
is that possible?
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 01:05am PT
|
manual review, or scripted/control +f for some?
There's gotta be some.
|
|
ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:06am PT
|
virtually every multi-pitch venue -- crag, waterfall ice, big wall -- has the obligatory Stairway to Heaven how does Yosemite not?
"Stairway to Heaven" is like the town of Springfield ... almost every state has a Springfield
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:07am PT
|
dude, step away from the bong
|
|
Ward Trotter
Trad climber
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:11am PT
|
interestingly, I just went through the 2300 route names in Yosemite Valley and didn't come up with any...
Crack of Doom.
The Crack of Doom was one of the first 5.10's done in the Valley and has a lot of history and lore surrounding it
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:12am PT
|
manual review...
it's not like I haven't been over the list before (and it's expanded, but I didn't include new routes)...
Yosemite is, after all, a real classy venue, an international venue, with all the somber gravity of such...
I mean, route names like Hung Like A Hamster reflect the culture...
|
|
Ward Trotter
Trad climber
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:15am PT
|
I mean, route names like Hung Like A Hamster reflect the culture...
LOL
That's funny.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:17am PT
|
I know Ants' Line (Ants Leemets).....but
Ent's line
??
The face on the left. A lot of years ago, but I remember it as hard 5.10.
Edit: I see it as a variation of ant's line in the Williams third edition (5.10+)
I don't recall they shared any rock except the last couple moves, but maybe I'm wrong.
Edit2: Swain has it as 11-
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:17am PT
|
Ents line is a 5.11 just to the left of Ants line.
Edit: It's not a variation. It starts left and stays left. At least that's the way I've always done it. Swain calls it 11- if you step right a the top into Ants line. 11+ if you don't.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:18am PT
|
maybe, but it is The Cracks of Doom... on Mt. Doom...
plural,
Crack of Doom Chuck Pratt and Mort Hempel, 1961
don't recall any Tolkien intended reference
it wasn't the first 5.10, that would be East Chimney, RIxon's Pinnacle in 1960 by Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick
|
|
Ward Trotter
Trad climber
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:29am PT
|
it wasn't the first 5.10, that would be East Chimney, RIxon's Pinnacle in 1960 by Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick
Lots of misinformation out there about the history of many routes . It is generally reported that C of D was the first 5. 10 in the valley. In any case, given that the Crack of Doom was climbed in 1961 would probably make it very iffy for a Tolkien derivation ; given that Lord of the Rings did not become widely popular in the US until a few years later.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:34am PT
|
Ents line is a 5.11 just to the left of Ants line.
Edit: It's not a variation. It starts left and stays left. At least that's the way I've always done it. Swain calls it 11- if you step right a the top into Ants line. 11+ if you don't.
The edition I have of swain doesn't have the 11+, but it says you move into Ant's line below the crux.
I think you end up at the same belay either way, don't you?
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:41am PT
|
Yep you end up at the Ants line belay. Most people actually do Ants than TR Ents. At least they used to. It's been a while since I've been back. lol
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 01:58am PT
|
Here's a picture from the Williams guide of rgold looking down and realizing he left his harness on the ground.
Ent's line is to his left. ( presumably the skinny tree is an Ent)
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 02:42am PT
|
pics!
Ran across a small dark and foreboding crag on the 108 many years ago. It was buried in a shallow canyon and had a strong canopy of trees blocking a lot of the light. Started calling it Murkwood. Still haven't sent anything over there.
Monsters, you see.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 06:20am PT
|
Seriously Ed?
I'll give you a hint, El Cap base, awkward and dirty, rainy day destination.
|
|
tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 07:38am PT
|
Mike, when I was in the area in 96 we dound forest service camping outside the park. Lucious green grass in open pine forest. It felt like Elves were liveing there but one had to be on the watch for Orcs and what not. When you walked through the split in the rocks at Slyvan lake you came out the other side in a different world that was undoubtably part of Middle Earth. I do not remember all that we did in there but definatly. Frodo, Three Rings and Shelobs Lair. We ran into an old drunken wizard at the parking area who wore a ball cap that had Tower Repair Service printed on it. yellow with black letters? He had a bud light majicly affixed to his hand and no longer climbed. He followed us arround insisting that we climbed this route and that route giveing us beta and background on the climbs.
I found the place to be incredibly majicle and always wanted to go there with Isa. i did see a photo you posted showing all the dead trees and am saddened by that.
|
|
markf
Trad climber
Frisco, CO
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 08:21am PT
|
Lots of misinformation out there about the history of many routes . It is generally reported that C of D was the first 5. 10 in the valley. In any case, given that the Crack of Doom was climbed in 1961 would probably make it very iffy for a Tolkien derivation ; given that Lord of the Rings did not become widely popular in the US until a few years later.
Lord of the Rings was copyrighted 1955, and it did have a following on US college campuses fairly early in the game.
As for other Tolkien-inspired route names in the Valley, there's a pinnacle called Gollum at the base of the SE face, just uphill from the start of Wall of the Early Morning Light. Left side is 5.10a, right side is 5.8.
|
|
Da-Veed
Trad climber
Bend Oregon
|
|
|
May 16, 2014 - 09:42am PT
|
Gandalfs grip. Rockey butte in pdx. My first lead fall!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!