Route names born of Tolkien

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Original Post - May 15, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
At least one Zepplin song was inspired by Tolkien. Surely there are route names? pics and stories welcome.


Queen of Light took her bow, And then she turned to go
The Prince of Peace embraced the gloom, And walked the night alone

[Chorus]
Oh, dance in the dark of night, Sing to the morning light
The dark Lord rides in force tonight, And time will tell us all

[Verse]
Oh, throw down your plow and ho, Rest not to lock your homes
Side by side we wait the might of the darkest of them all
I hear the horses' thunder down in the valley below
I'm waiting for the angels of Avalon, waiting for the eastern glow
The apples of the valley hold, The seeds of happiness
The ground is rich from tender care, Repay, do not forget, no, no
Dance in the dark of night, sing to the morning light
The apples turn to brown and black, The tyrant's face is red
Oh war is the common cry, Pick up your swords and fly
The sky is filled with good and bad that mortals never know
Oh, well, the night is long the beads of time pass slow
Tired eyes on the sunrise, waiting for the eastern glow
The pain of war cannot exceed the woe of aftermath
The drums will shake the castle wall, the ring wraiths ride in black, Ride on
Sing as you raise your bow, shoot straighter than before
No comfort has the fire at night that lights the face so cold

[Chorus]
Oh dance in the dark of night, Sing to the morning light
The magic runes are writ in gold to bring the balance back. Bring it back

[Outro]
At last the sun is shining, The clouds of blue roll by
With flames from the dragon of darkness, the sunlight blinds his eyes
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
May 15, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
Not my video.
The crux is the face move below the roof.
The roof itself is not really, really hard but interestingly somewhat tricky.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
May 15, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
Zep Songs with Tolkein references:

Battle of Evermore (lyrics above)
Ramble On
Misty Mountain Hop
Over The HIlls and Far Away
Stairway to Heaven (to some people)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 15, 2014 - 08:58pm PT
Tolkien names all over Mount Lemmon in Tucson. Helm's Deep, Bridge of Khazad-dum, Isengard, Galadriel, Barad Dur, Stormcrow and many more.
macleodnc

Trad climber
ca
May 15, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
Tuolumne is loaded with Tolkien inspired routes.
Hobbit Book, Middle Earth, Narcil, Anduril, Mordor, Galadriel, Isengard, and Lothlorien
Mt Russel has the Mithril Dihedral and then the Hobbit roof in J Tree. There's probably
A ton more those are just what I can think of off the top of my head.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
May 15, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
Gandalf Peak, on the Sierra Crest outside of Big Pine
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
May 15, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
Great topic!

There are whole bunch on Mariuolumne Dome:
The Nazgul
Lothlorian
Black Rider
Galadriel
Strider
Middle Earth
Hobbit Book (already posted

RyanD

climber
Squamish
May 15, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
We've got a few in the smoke bluffs here. Bilbo baggins is one? I dunno they are all kind of short & ledgy & don't deserve Tolkien names IMO.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 15, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bored-of-the-rings/106653337
(Joshua Tree)
:-)
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 15, 2014 - 09:24pm PT
There are a bunch in North Conway. Mines Of Moria, bridge of kazid Dum off the top of my head. A bunch in SD needles. i remember Three Rings For The elvin Kings being quite spicy.
The Lisa

Trad climber
Da Bronx, NY
May 15, 2014 - 10:45pm PT
Balrog and Middle Earth at the Gunks come to mind.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
May 15, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
The Strange Path of Elvish Dreams on hwy 4 in Cal.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
May 15, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
Journey through Mirkwood.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 15, 2014 - 11:22pm PT

couldn't resist
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 15, 2014 - 11:27pm PT
As Tradman said earlier. There is a large areas of the black hills needles that are named after the Tolkien. Pete Delannoy was one of the big developers of this. Near downs, far downs, middle earth, ect. It certainly does seem like a Tolkienesk place specially before the Beatles killed all of the large trees.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
May 15, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
Peter was real into JRR. He put up a bolted route in a very trad Gunnison area crag called Lothlorien.
zBrown

Ice climber
Brujo de la Playa
May 15, 2014 - 11:36pm PT
good one jefe.

there apparently is something called "Tolk Rock" or "Tolkien Rock"


probably the first entry in the discography would be


Leonard Nimoy's The Ballad Of Bilbo Baggins


Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
May 15, 2014 - 11:50pm PT
RyanD those names were applied to routes with other names by one K McLane

For instance a route called Toe Jam was subdivided into two separate Tolkien named routes

Go figure
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 12:14am PT
ah, nice, all superb contributions!


Mtn project route was a surprise. :)


Black Rider and Nazgul was sitting in the back of my mind. Hobbit Book and Hobbit Roof. Classics.


The Needles was a great memory shaker. Forgot about those.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
May 16, 2014 - 12:21am PT
Gunks routes I can think of :

Orc stone
Gil Galad
Ent's line
Bag's end
Middle Earth
Nazgul
Balrog
Elf stone
Ringwraith.

I'll leave it to others whether White Pillar, Wizard, and Journey's End qualify.
Stephen McCabe

Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
May 16, 2014 - 12:56am PT
We put up Helm's Deep on Power Dome above Helm's Creek.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 16, 2014 - 12:57am PT
interestingly, I just went through the 2300 route names in Yosemite Valley and didn't come up with any...

is that possible?

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 01:05am PT
manual review, or scripted/control +f for some?


There's gotta be some.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
May 16, 2014 - 01:06am PT
virtually every multi-pitch venue -- crag, waterfall ice, big wall -- has the obligatory Stairway to Heaven how does Yosemite not?

"Stairway to Heaven" is like the town of Springfield ... almost every state has a Springfield

klk

Trad climber
cali
May 16, 2014 - 01:07am PT
dude, step away from the bong
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
May 16, 2014 - 01:11am PT
interestingly, I just went through the 2300 route names in Yosemite Valley and didn't come up with any...

Crack of Doom.

The Crack of Doom was one of the first 5.10's done in the Valley and has a lot of history and lore surrounding it
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 16, 2014 - 01:12am PT
manual review...
it's not like I haven't been over the list before (and it's expanded, but I didn't include new routes)...

Yosemite is, after all, a real classy venue, an international venue, with all the somber gravity of such...

I mean, route names like Hung Like A Hamster reflect the culture...

Ward Trotter

Trad climber
May 16, 2014 - 01:15am PT
I mean, route names like Hung Like A Hamster reflect the culture...

LOL

That's funny.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
May 16, 2014 - 01:17am PT

I know Ants' Line (Ants Leemets).....but

Ent's line

??



The face on the left. A lot of years ago, but I remember it as hard 5.10.

Edit: I see it as a variation of ant's line in the Williams third edition (5.10+)
I don't recall they shared any rock except the last couple moves, but maybe I'm wrong.

Edit2: Swain has it as 11-
ruppell

climber
May 16, 2014 - 01:17am PT
Ents line is a 5.11 just to the left of Ants line.

Edit: It's not a variation. It starts left and stays left. At least that's the way I've always done it. Swain calls it 11- if you step right a the top into Ants line. 11+ if you don't.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 16, 2014 - 01:18am PT
maybe, but it is The Cracks of Doom... on Mt. Doom...
plural,

Crack of Doom Chuck Pratt and Mort Hempel, 1961

don't recall any Tolkien intended reference

it wasn't the first 5.10, that would be East Chimney, RIxon's Pinnacle in 1960 by Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
May 16, 2014 - 01:29am PT
it wasn't the first 5.10, that would be East Chimney, RIxon's Pinnacle in 1960 by Royal Robbins and Dave Rearick

Lots of misinformation out there about the history of many routes . It is generally reported that C of D was the first 5. 10 in the valley. In any case, given that the Crack of Doom was climbed in 1961 would probably make it very iffy for a Tolkien derivation ; given that Lord of the Rings did not become widely popular in the US until a few years later.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
May 16, 2014 - 01:34am PT

Ents line is a 5.11 just to the left of Ants line.

Edit: It's not a variation. It starts left and stays left. At least that's the way I've always done it. Swain calls it 11- if you step right a the top into Ants line. 11+ if you don't.

The edition I have of swain doesn't have the 11+, but it says you move into Ant's line below the crux.

I think you end up at the same belay either way, don't you?
ruppell

climber
May 16, 2014 - 01:41am PT
Yep you end up at the Ants line belay. Most people actually do Ants than TR Ents. At least they used to. It's been a while since I've been back. lol
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
May 16, 2014 - 01:58am PT
Here's a picture from the Williams guide of rgold looking down and realizing he left his harness on the ground.


Ent's line is to his left. ( presumably the skinny tree is an Ent)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 02:42am PT
pics!


Ran across a small dark and foreboding crag on the 108 many years ago. It was buried in a shallow canyon and had a strong canopy of trees blocking a lot of the light. Started calling it Murkwood. Still haven't sent anything over there.

Monsters, you see.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
May 16, 2014 - 06:20am PT
Seriously Ed?

I'll give you a hint, El Cap base, awkward and dirty, rainy day destination.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 16, 2014 - 07:38am PT
Mike, when I was in the area in 96 we dound forest service camping outside the park. Lucious green grass in open pine forest. It felt like Elves were liveing there but one had to be on the watch for Orcs and what not. When you walked through the split in the rocks at Slyvan lake you came out the other side in a different world that was undoubtably part of Middle Earth. I do not remember all that we did in there but definatly. Frodo, Three Rings and Shelobs Lair. We ran into an old drunken wizard at the parking area who wore a ball cap that had Tower Repair Service printed on it. yellow with black letters? He had a bud light majicly affixed to his hand and no longer climbed. He followed us arround insisting that we climbed this route and that route giveing us beta and background on the climbs.

I found the place to be incredibly majicle and always wanted to go there with Isa. i did see a photo you posted showing all the dead trees and am saddened by that.
markf

Trad climber
Frisco, CO
May 16, 2014 - 08:21am PT
Lots of misinformation out there about the history of many routes . It is generally reported that C of D was the first 5. 10 in the valley. In any case, given that the Crack of Doom was climbed in 1961 would probably make it very iffy for a Tolkien derivation ; given that Lord of the Rings did not become widely popular in the US until a few years later.

Lord of the Rings was copyrighted 1955, and it did have a following on US college campuses fairly early in the game.

As for other Tolkien-inspired route names in the Valley, there's a pinnacle called Gollum at the base of the SE face, just uphill from the start of Wall of the Early Morning Light. Left side is 5.10a, right side is 5.8.
Da-Veed

Trad climber
Bend Oregon
May 16, 2014 - 09:42am PT
Gandalfs grip. Rockey butte in pdx. My first lead fall!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 16, 2014 - 10:31am PT


Stairs of Cirith Ungol reported by Price as Kirith. Tuolumne


http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/930986/The-Stairs-of-Kirith-sic-Ungol-TR-Tuolumne-obscurities
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 16, 2014 - 10:33am PT
I think Gollum would actually be a reference!
I should have known that one (having climbed both sides).

the yiddish word is Golem.

Gollum, Right Side 1967 Joe Kelsey, Roman Laba, John Hudson
Gollum, Left Side 1972 Peter Haan, Rick Linkert, David Moss


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=313637
richross

Trad climber
May 16, 2014 - 11:06am PT
Ant's Line with Ent's to the left.

Ent's line is to his left. ( presumably the skinny tree is an Ent)

The tree has fattened up a bit!

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
May 16, 2014 - 02:07pm PT
From the Needles guide book. Don't know the hobbit that well but here are some related ones I think. Aku Aku, bartizan, the brothers kaseltzer, cricket tor, dallymore spur, frug, gollum, Orc cave, kaoz, koh-ring, rubaiyat, khayyam, and many more.
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
May 16, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
We've got "Middle Earth" at Mission Gorge here in San Diego... LOTS of Tolkien references!

"Glamdring" is a favorite...

...and "Shadowfax" !
Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
May 16, 2014 - 03:00pm PT
Eye of Sauron. A real killer

Andy Fielding

Trad climber
UK
May 16, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
Scafell Crag, Lake District, UK

Black Rider
Shadowfax
The White Wizard
Ringwraith
The Nazgul
jeb013

climber
portland, or
May 16, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
Frodos Journey
Hobbit Hole
Gandalf's Grip

All at Broughton Bluff in Troutdale, Or

jeb
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
May 16, 2014 - 03:47pm PT
Pat Callis put up Gandalf in the Humbug Spires south of Butte.
Bold climb.

Great TR here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=363979&msg=2155408#msg2155408
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
that tree did fatten up (just comparing the two pics)!


There's something about the ominous feelings we might get climbing on dark and foreboding climbs that resonates with the Sauron based evil in Middle Earth.

Doing battle, overcoming against all odds, small things matter are other themes.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
May 16, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
From the Needles guide book. Don't know the hobbit that well but here are some related ones I think. Aku Aku, bartizan, the brothers kaseltzer, cricket tor, dallymore spur, frug, gollum, Orc cave, kaoz, koh-ring, rubaiyat, khayyam, and many more.

Some of these didn't sound right from my Tolkien geek days, so I ran some through the Tolkien Gateway, the definitive source on all things Middle Earth.

Aku aku -- no matches. Sounds like something Polynesian. Fish, maybe? At any rate, it's a Thor Heyerdahl book. Alternatively, Aku Aku is the guardian of the Wumpa Islands and the father figure of Crash Bandicoot and his friends.

Bartizan -- no matches. It is a wall mounted projecting turret on medieval wall fortifications.

Kazeltzer -- not even looking it up. There was a comedy troupe. One guy was named Al.

Cricket tor -- see last answer

Dallymore Spur -- sounds like a branch line in the Toonerville Trolleys comic strip.

Frug -- I'm from the 60's. It was a dance.

Kaoz -- a tattoo parlor in Pensacola Florida. Sailors go there.

Rubbiyat and Khayyam are a Persian love poem and poet, respectively.

Koh ring -- goggle returns
"With regard to a lap hysterectomy, dictator uses a Koh/KOH ring ..."

I'm saying bogus, or truly one ring to rule them all.

johnboy

Trad climber
Can't get here from there
May 16, 2014 - 10:09pm PT
Many around Sylvan Lake area.
Here's most of them as listed on Mt. Project.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/middle-earth/105714258
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
May 17, 2014 - 12:31am PT

Saugy

Mountain climber
BC
May 17, 2014 - 02:27am PT

Mt. Gandalf - Coast Mtns, B.C. - Mar. 2013


Gandalf two days later - Now the Misty Mtns. - Shadowfax and Peregrine abide here as well
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Feb 2, 2016 - 10:29am PT
The "Mighty Roofs of Mordor" on Journey Through Mirkwood 5.11b

Courtesy MP.com and Brad Brandewie
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Feb 2, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
I wore a musty mtns harness, when I climbed the mines of Moria pitches on tricks of the Trade, in Zion.
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