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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2007 - 02:38pm PT
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TR - The Gollum, Right and Left
1/27/07
It didn't look like a good weekend, especially when we, Jay, Gary and me, pulled out of Livermore in heavy mist to encounter rain during the central valley crossing.
Our OW objective of the week was Gollum, Left, while the target of opportunity climb was Gollum, Right.
A famous name in the Valley we so closely associate with Rivendell
"Gollum is a fictional character from J. R. R. Tolkien's legendarium. He was first introduced in the author's fantasy novel The Hobbit, and later became an important supporting character in its sequel, The Lord of the Rings.
Originally known as Sméagol, he was later named Gollum after the disgusting gurgling noise he made in his throat. Though his date of birth is unknown, he was born in the Third Age and died on March 25, 3019 of that Age. His life was extended far beyond its natural limits by the effects of possessing the One Ring. His one desire was to possess the Ring which had enslaved him, and he pursued it for 76 years after he lost it."
Who named this formation "The Gollum" and why? Was it Kelsey, Laba and Hudson?
The Gollum is a formation of piled blocks, some very large and some smaller, that sits at the S.E. base of El Capitan, just above the Alcove. Gollum, Right, 5.8 was done by Joe Kelsey, Roman Laba and John Hudson in 1967. Gollum, Left 5.10a was done in 1972 by Peter Haan, Rick Linkert and David Moss.
The floor of the Valley was chilly as expected, no cars at the El Cap Meadows parking pull off when we get there. We hike up to the base getting warmer and warmer, not an entirely unwelcome event. Since the sun was shining on the Right side we started there.
This climb, Gollum Right, is a stout 5.8! One 150 foot pitch to the flake around which many slings create the escape route off this thing. The right side is a set of right facing corners, three or four, which have to be negotiated with a whole set of hands and off-hands technique. As is usual for this grade, holds show up at just the right time to get you through. Even though no single move is probably harder than 5.8, there are places where there are successive moves, and moves that need to puzzled out in positions not conducive to puzzle-solving. And in what I now believe is the character of both Gollum climbs, there is always one more problem to solve all the way to the top. You don't get a break with a short crux and a cruise to the top, you work the whole way there.
Of course the day was a gift, with the sun in and out of the cloud cover, and the occasional strong gust churned the cold air off the Valley floor up to our perch.
After I had a less-than-wonderful lead on that side, with Gary and Jay cruising to the top, but with respect for sure, we ventured to the Left side, now in the afternoon sun. Gary got it all together and decided he'd give it a go, "but I don't know if I won't lower at the roof" he warned, "and I'm going to save your gear for up there so you will have to finish it if I don't." Of course the mentor in me soared with this sign that Gary had picked up the nuances of climbing team relationship at the same time I was calculating just how long this collective effort would have to last to get all of our gear down. Oddly I didn't think of the gambit of just climbing Right and rapping Left to get the gear out, but I'm sure I would have thought of it in the event it would become necessary.
The Left side is, of course, a set of left-facing corners, the 5.10a crux is a roof and the obvious way through apparent from the ground. While stronger face climbers may be able to swindle their way around the crux, they still have to negotiate a lot of crack climbing to get to the top, or be content to run things way out.
Gary starts in the wide bottom crack, left knee in, right foot heel-toeing up about 40 feet to right under the roof. It can get cramped there, and Gary spent a good time getting the pro right, slinging things to minimize the potential rope drag. Big gear is wonderful, and we had it. BD old #3, #4, #5 and a couple of #6 Friends, good fit to the crux. I hope that Peter Haan can tell us what the FA was like, I can't imagine that there was much pro that fit, back in the day.
The crux moves are wild. Jay's comment was "elegant" as the pieces of the crux sort of fell into place in a logical manner. I'll give a blow-by-blow as I remember it... micro-beta for a climb I doubt many will do. The left foot finds a thin flake on the left wall level with the ledge under the roof. There is an even thinner hold about 2' above that one, I found it necessary to get it to do the move. Arms in the roof crack find nice edges and features, but ultimately rely on bars and chicken-wings, for the left, and a couple of gastons for the right. Classic offwidth technique, only horizontal. Then you lift up and get your right foot on the first of three edges on the roof, each one essential for your progress. After extending the first time, you get your left leg in, knee and all, that and your left arm bar stablize you for getting your right foot to the next ridge. Body smear and move the arm bar and gaston, then the knee, then the right foot again. Patience, and methodology get you up a little at a time. Your goal is the great hold for your right hand that is so improbably distant when you start that you can't believe it's there when you grab it. But the fun isn't over, as you have to continue to be patient. First, slowly, move-by-move rotating your left arm into a chicken wing. Continuing with the left knee jams, and eventually rotating clockwise into the squeeze righting yourself from 9:00 to 12:00. Then squeezing up.
It is an unbelievable set of moves. When done "right" it is oddly not very stressful... I got it on my third try, thinking that there was no way I had the gas in the tank. Jay got through it styling, and Gary got it on his third time on lead.
Of course, the climb isn't over by any means. A series of tricky passages await, there is another minor crux just above the true crux. Oddly shaped crack, holdless faces to the left, a critical horn that seems to be missed to your right. Then the final push to the summit flake up a sharp, off-hands crack requiring a most unwelcome 4 moves to get to a ledge, and then a couple of more hands to finally reach the flake for the traverse to the belay slings. You are worked by the time you reach this top part... at least I was. But it is a rewarding finish.
What a nice climb, actually, both are nice.
On rapping the face of the Gollum we saw chalk in some of the face cracks... maybe someone's put a route or variation there. Also, the slings at the top were rather new, as were the two 'biners. We added a sling and used the 'biners for our raps... someone else knows about this place.
But that was the day's production... 300' of climbing and another tick of the 5.10a off-width list.
Pictures to follow from me tomorrow, Jay might be inspired to put a few up...
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 28, 2007 - 02:49pm PT
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excellent job and write-up. I especially like the "micro-beta" blow-by-blow replay of the crux. It sounds like fun. looking forward to the photos.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 28, 2007 - 02:53pm PT
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Great TR Ed. Talk about obscure but dry! That shattered little formation never quite caught my interest, but I am inspired to check it out now.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 28, 2007 - 04:58pm PT
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The weather was spectacular,
Anyone up for NIAD?
'Scelito IAD?
Dr Ed, showing us the way up the right side (the Smeagol side?)
I know I led this when I was about 19, but I could barely recognize the formation, let alone the placements (hexes and wires, duh)
Meanwhile,
Gollum's other aspect awaited us.
But
Gary was prepared to deal with G's shenanigans. (didn't use That one you didn't want to see the light here)
as the climb got more
threatening,
so did
the Weather
But,
Gary made it through 'the bidness'
And the sun
came back out, in time for
Ed's moment in same.
Great day, great climbs, like Ed said, that left side must have been a burly lead in '72 with hammers, bongs, EB's and runouts!
If the route on the front goes, I hope it has an appropriate name, maybe Deagol's struggle.
question for El cap officianados;
could this ledge
be the one at the tope of pitch 5 (?) on Mescalito? In '84 I sat there or some place similar sipping a Foster's and watching my first base jumper go by.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 28, 2007 - 06:05pm PT
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Somehow it just doesn't seem right without a photo...
ps Nice thread!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2007 - 06:26pm PT
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how about this one?
is he wearing white painter's pants?!
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john hansen
climber
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Jan 28, 2007 - 06:32pm PT
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That is perfect Ed. CLASSIC
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phillygoat
climber
portland,
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Jan 28, 2007 - 06:47pm PT
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Nor pants!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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Jan 28, 2007 - 06:50pm PT
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Thanks. That was an awesome read. And the photos actually evoked a physical response. Beautiful day for you guys. Awesome!
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Jan 28, 2007 - 08:04pm PT
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Yes!
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 28, 2007 - 08:18pm PT
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Hi Ed,
As I have said before, your posts are just fantastic. I wish we could force you to do several a day, along with photos of course. They are so pleasurable and full.
I remember the right side of Gollum as being really very engaging and unusual. It was continuous and had several distinct semi-cruxes and as you say, was a full rope length. It was “old 5.8”. The rock was wonderful, the location insanely inspiring if not intimidating. This climb really should be more popular because it has tons of character and is safe, exciting and can be done in the middle of winter.
The first ascent of the left side is worth talking about too. After I had done the right side, of course I checked the whole area out for possibilities and found that the left side, although appearing a little junky from below, had the likelihood of being a very serious technical free climb.
Here is photo/link of the whole pinnacle of Gollum from that Xrez site, zoomed:
[url=http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture1hq3.jpg]{{img}}h~~p://img187.imageshack.us/img187/8831/picture1hq3.th.jpg[/img][/url]
So March, 1972, the year following my Hourglass FA, I took my friend and partner from that climb, Rick Linkert and the very very young David Moss from Berkeley’s Indian Rock as well on a little casual hike up there. David was frankly a child I think, maybe 12?? Today, Rick is a very successful attorney and happy family man in the Central Valley and David Moss---kind of Liberace-like in appearance now--- still climbs and can be seen at Berkeley Iron Works. It was really a kooky threesome in ways. But it was early in the season, I was kind of slowing leaving climbing, as was Rick, and the child Moss would do anything we told him to, and had velcroed himself to me perhaps on a family outing up in the Valley.
The intricate details you describe, Ed, are what I am remembering as well. I thought the climb was really elegant too! And like the other side, very very unusual. From below, of course it looks pretty damned hard. The roof is really a roof, not just some 15 degree overhang, and it is not welcoming in mien. In fact the false semi-junky camouflage of the route just adds to the hairiness of it as you begin. And you imagine offwidthing the roof and don’t know if that is at all feasible---it would be quite unique and you would be nearly horizontal. But as you say, it turns out that by climbing it studiously, it just never gets that bad. The edges all over the place really save it. I rated it 5.9 at the time but obviously it is 5.10a. I flashed it and I think Rick followed it without trouble. I can’t remember what happened to David however. We were all really impressed and thought we had plucked another feather, as we all used to say back then. There are other new things to climb in the vicinity btw.
Best to you, PH
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2007 - 10:00pm PT
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Thank you for the kind words Peter, and your route and the description of the FA. I wish I could both climb enough and be creative enough to post several times a day, and keep everyone interested.
Jay was looking up the FA when we were at the base yesterday, "oh boy, Peter Haan did the first ascent!" It was a real treat to learn that, glad you liked our little report.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Jan 28, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
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Great TR. Great photos. Looks like great fun!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jan 28, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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Peter,
You guys truly did pluck a feather with that one!
A -sophisticated move inventory™ for a climb at that level. Not a sandbag, but maybe not the best choice for a first lead of that grade-hehe.
Thanks for commenting and thanks especially for the route!
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Rick L
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Jan 28, 2007 - 11:28pm PT
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Ed and Jaybro-
What a treat to turn on the computer after a long day at the office and read your TR and see the great photos. It blows my mind that we did the route more than 30 years ago. Seems like yesterday. I do not remember many of the details of the climb except that Peter flashed it like it was a walk in the park. I have no idea how he protected it. We just had bongs to pound or use end-wise when it got wide. I had become something of an OW savant as a result of hanging out with Peter so I recall having a relativley uneventful time with it. I remember a hidden crack in the side wall of a wide crack that was pretty cool and made a section considerably easier than it looked. "Little David" was an unbelievably talented boulderer from Indian Rock. A real prodigy,he would drift up problems like smoke rising in the air. I do remember being a bit gripped about the rappel. Peter- I'm pretty sure we rapped on one 1" runner looped over the pointed summit. Do you remember? Were we really that confident/nuts?
In looking at those great wide cams in the photos, I'm thinking that, while the protection is much better, the OW's may be actually be harder for the leader today as a result of having to navigate around the pieces of machinery. We had swamis, turned the knot to the outside and took off, placing pro where we could or running it out a bit.
This post, for me, has been an oasis in the winter doldrums of recent postings. When I look back on it, I treasure the fact that I was able to do some of my first hard climbs with guys like Peter, the Bard brothers and Vern Clevenger. What a privilege...
Regards to all
Rick
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 29, 2007 - 10:56am PT
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What a great way to start the day. Ed's TR. Jaybro's photos and commentary by the first ascent team. Outrageous! Thanks guys.
Bob and I went to Sugarloaf. We finished the day with a bit of grovelling on Self Abuse, a 10b squeeze, which Bob lead in great style and I followed by headlamp. We also climbed the 5.9 unnamed thing that leads to the top of the Pedestal to the left of Pony Express. We climbed the short section of 5.9 OW near the bottom and went looking for the other 5.9 part. We couldn't find that but there is this long and wide chimney that is almost more of a room! It is 30 feet of unprotected easy (5.4?) chimney to some big chockstones and a scramble to the top.
Thanks again for the TR
Zander
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jan 29, 2007 - 02:05pm PT
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Fun thread. Great photos. Thanks!
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scuffy b
climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
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Jan 29, 2007 - 06:02pm PT
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Most excellent report, Ed, Jaybro, Peter and Rick.
It didn't quite make me feel I was there, but it certainly made
me wish it.
Peter, I'm going to peg David at age 14 at the time of your FA.
That was when people didn't really know what to think of his
potential. Some were almost surprised when he turned out to be
mortal.
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Wild Bill
climber
Ca
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Jan 29, 2007 - 06:15pm PT
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Really enjoyable TR guys. Good to see the "old guard" out there wrestling them big rocks into submission.
And "Little" David Moss works with me here, he's just down the hall and an extremely nice man. While I remember him from CityRock days (he was an early member) I had no idea he was a child prodigy. I'll have to slip that into our conversation sometime.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2007 - 12:16am PT
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Big cams and Aztecs, still life
Gary at the top of The Gollum, Right
Jaybro at the top of The Gollum, RIght
Gary starting into the crux of The Gollum, Left
Jaybro with his right hand on the hold, getting by the crux of The Gollum, Left. This was a tough image to pull out since Jay likes to wear dark colors... need to get that boy some white painter's pants and a red pull over!
The Cathedrals beyond the Alcove, late afternoon light
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