nah000
climber
canuckistan
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May 17, 2014 - 02:50am PT
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the following jeff lowe climbing cv is from a google map that is linked on lowe's metanoia site. climbs are cut and pasted and so are organized into the same categories as those used on the map.
unf*#kingbelievable:
Pioneer Achievements
1958, youngest climber: Grand Teton, Wyoming: At age 7 years, the youngest person to climb the Grand Teton, Wyoming.
1967, big wall speed climb: Triple Direct, Yosemite National Park, California: 1967-1971, learned big wall techniques in California’s Yosemite National Park by repeating El Capitan classics such as Triple Direct (24 hours climbing time, very fast for that era); North Face and West Face of Sentinel Rock; the Salathé Wall (seventh ascent); and North America Wall (fifth ascent).
1974, pioneer waterfall ice climb: Bridalveil Falls, Colorado: first ascent of Bridalveil Falls, Colorado, III, WI 5+, free without hanging from leashes on tools to place protection. Set the standard for the era.
1979, pioneer alpine climb: Ama Dablam, Nepal: first ascent, solo, of the South Face of Ama Dablam, Nepal, VI, AI5, M5, 9 hours. The solo first ascent of a major new route in the Himalaya.
1982, pioneer alpine climb: Kwāngde, Nepal: first ascent, Hungo Face of Kwangde, Nepal, VI, WI6, M6. First application of waterfall ice techniques in the Himalaya.
1983, pioneer alpine climb: Taulliraju, Peru: first alpine style ascent of the Italian SW Pillar route, Taulliraju, Peru, VI, AI6, M6.
1983, notable solo: Putscanturpa Norte, Huayhuash, Peru: solo first ascent and first free ascent of the Italian Route on Putscanturpa Norte, Peru. Lowe was not aware the route had been climbed by the Italians the previous year until he saw evidence on the climb. The Italians fixed ropes, employed aid, and spent two weeks, whereas Lowe free climbed and made the ascent in 6 hours. Grade V, 5.10.
1991, notable solo: Eiger North Face, Switzerland: Metanoia, Lowe’s tribute to the pioneers of the Eiger North Face, Switzerland. VII, 5.10, M6, A4.
1994, pioneer mixed climb: Octopussy, Colorado: first ascent of Octopussy, Colorado, the first M8. Lowe introduced the M grades with this route, and pictures of the climb were published around the world, sparking interest in this new way of climbing.
Difficult Free Climbs
1965, leading 5.10 routes: Ogden Canyon, Utah: began leading new routes (clean, no falls) at 5.10 standard, such as Air Time, Ogden Canyon, Utah.
1967, leading 5.11 routes: Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah: began leading new routes (clean, no falls) at 5.11 standard, such as the Ross Route, Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah.
1975, leading 5.11+ routes: Ogden Canyon, Utah: began leading new routes (clean, no falls) at 5.11+ standard, such as Pass or Flail, Ogden, Utah
1980, leading 5.12 routes: Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho: began leading new routes (1 or 2 falls, max) at 5.12 standard, such as Black Crystal route, Sawtooths, Idaho, grade IV, 5.12a.
1992, still leading new free routes at high standard: Zion National Park, Utah: still leading new free routes at a high standard, such as Wind, Sand and Stars, Zion National Park, Utah, grade V, 5.12c.
Alpine Face Climbs
1967-2000, London Spire, Utah: opened up many new alpine faces in the mountain ranges of western North America, such as North Face of London Spire, Utah, IV, 5.9.
1967-2000, Mt Temple, Canada: opened up many new alpine faces in the mountain ranges of western North America, such as North Face of Mt Temple, Canadian Rockies IV, 5.8, AI 5.
1967-2000, Mt Kitchener, Canada: opened up many new alpine faces in the mountain ranges of western North America, such as Ramp Route and Grand Central Couloir on Mt Kitchener, Canadian Rockies, both V, M5, AI4.
Big Wall Aid Climbs
1968-1972, Zion National Park, Utah: opened up the sandstone walls of Utah’s Zion National Park and southern Utah with a dozen major routes, such as Timeline, V, 5.9, A4; North Face of Angel’s Landing, V, 5.10, A3; Moonlight Buttress, V, 5.9, A4; and The Toad, VI, 5.10, A3.
1969-1973, Haystack Mountain, Wyoming: opened up new big walls in the mountains of western North America, such as North Tower of Haystack Mountain, Wind Rivers, Wyoming, V, 5.11, A4.
1969-1973, Snowpatch Spire, Canada: opened up new big walls in the mountains of western North America, such as the South Face (Jones-Lowe route) of Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, Canada.
1969-1973, Keeler Needle, California: opened up new big walls in the mountains of western North America, such as the East Face of Keeler Needle (Lowe-Weiland route), Sierra Nevada, California.
Big Wall Free Climbs
1970-2000, Wheeler Peak, Nevada: opened up many big walls completely free climbing, beginning with climbs such as East Face of Wheeler Peak, Nevada (Lowe-Lowe route) IV, 5.10.
1970-2000, Slesse Mountain, Canada: opened up many big walls completely free climbing, beginning with climbs such as the North Rib, Slesse Mountain, Canada, V, 5.9.
1970-2000, Mt Gould, Montana: opened up many big walls completely free climbing, beginning with climbs such as the East Face of Mt Gould, Montana, V, 5.11.
1974-2000, Glenwood Canyon, Colorado: From 1974 onward, deciding to climb rock walls completely free or not at all, continued to do the first ascents of many big walls free for two decades, such as Internationale, Glenwood Canyon, Colorado, IV, 5.10+.
1974-2000, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado: From 1974 onward deciding to climb rock walls completely free or not at all, continued to do the first ascents of many big walls free for two decades, such as Risky Business, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, IV, 5.11+.
1974-2000, Zion National Park, Utah: From 1974 onward deciding to climb rock walls completely free or not at all, continued to do the first ascents of many big walls free for two decades, such as Sandblaster, Zion National Park, Utah, IV, 5.11.
1974-2000, Square Top Mountain, Utah: From 1974 onward deciding to climb rock walls completely free or not at all, continued to do the first ascents of many big walls free for two decades, such as the West pillar of Square Top Mountain, V, 5.10, and NE Face of Square Top Mountain, V, 5.11, Wind Rivers, Wyoming.
1990, Nameless Tower of Trango, Pakistan: took big wall free climbing to Pakistan, where Jeff Lowe made the second free ascent, with a new 7-pitch direct start, of the Slovenian Route on Nameless Tower of Trango (VI, 5.12a) with Catherine Destivelle.
First Winter Ascents
1971-1972, Grand Teton, Wyoming: 1971, first winter ascent of Black Ice Couloir, Grand Teton, Wyoming, V, AI3,M5 (winter grade). 1972, first winter ascent of West Face, Grand Teton, Wyoming, V, 5.8, AI3, M5 (winter grade).
1976, Longs Peak, Colorado: first winter ascent of D1 route, Longs Peak, Colorado, V, 5.9, A2.
Solo Climbs
1971, Swiss Peak, Canada: 1965-2000, although Jeff Lowe never considered himself a dedicated soloist, among his thousands of climbs over the years, he was alone on several hundred, such as in 1971 on the North Face of Swiss Peak, Canada, III, AI3.
1971, Mt Andromeda, Canada: West Shoulder Direct, Mt Andromeda, Canadian Rockies, III, AI3, M4.
1972, Grand Teton, Wyoming: Simpleton’s Pillar, IV, 5.10, North Face of Grand Teton, Wyoming.
1975, Scotland: although Jeff Lowe never considered himself a dedicated soloist, over the decades he amassed a significant record of solo climbs, including several routes in Scotland in 1975.
1979, Mt Andromeda, Canada: Asteroid Alley, IV, AI5,M6, Mt Andromeda, Canadian Rockies.
1983, Pumori, Nepal: although Jeff Lowe never considered himself a dedicated soloist, over the decades he amassed a significant record of solo climbs, including the 1983 solo of the SE Spur of Pumori, Nepal.
1986-2003, Mont Blanc: many solos in the Mont Blanc Range, including the Super Couloir, free climbing the direct start, in 2 hours to the end of the ice difficulties below the summit. V, M6, WI4.
Waterfall Ice Climbs
1974-2002, Stewart Falls, Utah: first ascents of several dozen waterfall ice climbs around the world, such as Stewart Falls (on the east side of Mt Timpanogos), Utah, AI5.
1974-2002, Lake Louise, Canada: first ascents of several dozen waterfall ice climbs around the world, such as Curtain Call (north of Lake Louise), Canada, III, WI6.
1974-2002, Scotland: first ascents of several dozen waterfall ice climbs around the world, including several new routes in Scotland up to III, WI5, M6.
1974-2002, Tête de Gramusat, France: first ascents of several dozen waterfall ice climbs around the world, such as Blind Faith, France, V, WI6+, A1.
Modern Mixed Climbing
1995-2001, Gorillas in the Mist, New York: dozens of new Mixed climbs throughout North America. Routes up to M9 have already become legendary – seldom climbed but much sought after, including Gorillas in the Mist, New York, III, M6+.
1995-2001, Deep Throat, Colorado: dozens of new Mixed climbs throughout North America. Routes up to M9 have already become legendary – seldom climbed but much sought after, including Deep Throat (Glenwood Canyon), Colorado, III, M7+,WI6+.
Alpine Climbs, Great Ranges
1974, Tajikistan: first ascent of the North Face of Peak 19, Tajikistan, IV, AI2.
1978, Latok I, Pakistan: almost complete ascent of the North Ridge of Latok 1, Pakistan. Climbed 75 pitches to within 150m of summit, turned back by storm, sickness and no food. More than 200 attempts since and the next best high point is still 800m below Lowe’s.
1980, Skyang Kangri, Pakistan: first ascent (to junction with Japanese E ridge at 7,400m), South Face of Skyang Kangri, Pakistan, VI, AI3, M5.
1983, Nuptse, Nepal: solo first ascent (second overall) and first winter ascent of the French route on the SE Pillar of Nuptse (in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal), Nepal, VI, AI3,M4. 1986 saw two unsuccessful attempts on the South Pillar.
1986, Kangtega, Nepal: first ascent of the NW Face Kangtega, Nepal (to lower, NW peak), VI, AI5, M7. Followed by two attempts on the South Pillar of Nuptse, Nepal, unsuccessful.
1989, Tawoche, Nepal: first ascent (in winter) of the East Face of Tawoche (Solukhumbu District), Nepal, VII, 5.11, AI6, M6.
1993, Makalu, Nepal: attempt to solo a new direct route on the West Face of Makalu, Nepal, stormed off at 7,300m.
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