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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 20, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
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Do it! We were stoked to have a #4,5, and 6. I placed the #4 bro in the safety valve, next to the old terrible bolts at the crux, and the super long squeeze pitch, but most people hate that piece or don't know how use it lately and the bolts are good at the crux now so it isn't backing up a possible maiming fall anymore.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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May 20, 2014 - 05:00pm PT
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Curt, in my opinion, what made the LA chimney a very serious climb from the Sixties onward was the protection of the crux (aid or free!)-- that one short pitch. Outside of that 15 feet, the climb was varied enough, terrifically historic, nothing ghastly, and the route contained tons of 5.7, 5.8, and some bits of 5.9 in my experience. And had no hanging belays.
I am glad the crux was properly bolted recently. The temptation over the years was not to bring a bolt kit or anything really other than a small rack and maybe water. Hauling the climb would just be ignorant, in my view. By the time you were doing that important crux pitch, you just wanted to get it behind you and fire on to the notch. And so no one did any replacement work.
But you had to be pretty good to climb that section as it was rotten, granular, overhanging, a pinned out non-crack, with the chimney narrowing out just below you like some log-pulping machine. And horrid pro, really bad pro. This is in 1972. And of course you were impelled to do it free.
Actually it should simply share a level with Steck Salathe today, as Barry suggests. The narrow cracks are not at all unrelenting like those on Elephant Rock. There you can go perhaps a hundred feet sometimes and find perhaps no means of protection.
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Trad is Rad
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
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May 20, 2014 - 05:56pm PT
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Im going up to do it on Friday. I haven't found any solid approach directions. Can someone who has done the approach in the way they believe to be the quickest please tell me the best way to get to the base?
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WBraun
climber
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May 20, 2014 - 06:07pm PT
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Click photo to enlarge
A = quicker
B = longer but no scramnbling to the top of Sunyside Bench
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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May 20, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
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why make noise about it, jim?
it's there.
it is not really inviting.
why do you need our consideration
to validate your attempt?
just bring a number 3.
jesus christ the forefathers
are now wearing the clean socks
of today's sorry excuse for climbers.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 20, 2014 - 07:46pm PT
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I have very good memory from this route , but it was harder than I expected. All those 5.7, 5.8 and 5.9 which was rated in early 1960-th shell be taken with respect- otherwise you can be surprise. Zander and I climbed it two years ago and benighted at the notch. Next morning after decent we met Werner near the SAR base and he asked "Why you guys so trashed?"
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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May 20, 2014 - 09:44pm PT
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I did it a few years ago and the fixed pro was trash. I made it to the notch by noon but can't tell you who was leading. (a hint, it wasn't me)
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 20, 2014 - 11:26pm PT
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why make noise about it, jim?
it's there.
it is not really inviting.
why do you need our consideration
to validate your attempt?
Wow! I really don't see anything in Donini's posts that warrants such a response. We have endured your many selfies Weeg . . . JD doesn't wave his willy, he's gettin' after it.
Chill the f*#k out bro.
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wee man
Trad climber
truckee ca
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May 21, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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trad we took werners approach B which was easy up the talus above the stables and cut left above sunnyside cliffs then up an right , i was happy i took some mental notes on the somewhat slabby middle section after this, as we came down late i was also happy to have #6 on the climb enjoy
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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May 21, 2014 - 01:55am PT
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With all the trash reported in this thing, might it make a worthy Facelift expedition?
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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May 21, 2014 - 02:13am PT
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Not the anchors, Clint. Both Zander and Salamanizer reported tons of actual garbage (broken cameras, tat and rope, a radio, etc.).
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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May 21, 2014 - 02:42am PT
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I'll lead it and help fix ropes, but I'm not bivying in there. Ya'll can follow and do the hauling. That would be a total PITA.
You'd need a small group of half a dozen or more volunteers to pull it off. Climbers, followers, cleaning, jugging and hauling with several hikers to fix the notch, with bivy gear and cold refreshments for the climbers on top.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 27, 2016 - 08:07am PT
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Very cool thread bump.
So, Jim, have you got to do the LAC, as you were thinking you might when you were a sprout back in '12?
Here's some second ascent photos I've scanned from Bullwinkle's fun new book, Yosemite in the Fifties (Pantagonia Press). All are credited to Bob Swift, who made the ascent with Frank Tarver and Batso.
Thank you, Bullwinkle, photos & captions.
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Feb 27, 2016 - 10:16am PT
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Those are sick old photos..
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 27, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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Those are very cool!
Way, more work than steck salathe....
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jun 16, 2017 - 11:45am PT
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Bump.
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