Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 18, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
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Came across this one while trying to dig up a leavitation vid for skcreidc's fist stack thread.
So sick!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Apr 18, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
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Nice!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 08:12pm PT
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Makes it look so easy....
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overwatch
climber
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Apr 18, 2014 - 08:41pm PT
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Is that being facetious, blue ring? Didn't look easy for him to me. Pretty cool but "quiet please"? That gave me a chuckle
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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thanks for posting, good footage.
he did not make it easy, but his footwork is amazing...
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pc
climber
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:01pm PT
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Horrible. My hips and shoulders ache just watching.
Nice work though.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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No, I meant that. He made a sick exercise in stemming look easy. And his feet have almost no friction in some of those moves. Couple that with his use of counter-pressure in his hands, and he made it look 5.11.
It was pretty impressive.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
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yeah, quite please was good. I wanna say that all the times but feel like i'm being a dick haha.
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Michelle
Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
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MisterE
climber
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
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Love the velcro-attached gear - brilliant energy and time-saving idea.
Damn, so that is what 5.14 stemming looks like.
Huh.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
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Smear tactics on the book of hate.
Loved it!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
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I don't think many have done this route. Honnold a few years back and Beth R. are the only leads of it that made news. Any of the excellent climbers who hang around ST been up there?
EDIT: quick search turned up this. Engelkirk made the second and it sounds like Heinze Zak also got it.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/309288/Book-of-Hate-repeat
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Sanskara
climber
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Apr 18, 2014 - 09:57pm PT
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Content!
Now that makes me want to get out and climb..
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Apr 18, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
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hey there say, RyanD... and all...
i will never cease to be amazed at what the human body, eye-brain-and-all, in sync, can do... :O
wow, is hardly a good 'exclaimation'...
whether watching this, or seeing some 'intricate' (and i mean intricate) ballet sequence of movement, it is a marvel to watch...
i myself, too, see years of training as to brainwork, here, too...
thanks for sharing... i always am impressed with the work involved and the brainwork, in climbing, as well as the actual physical work...
and wow--i sure can appreciate the joy, felt, once done, too!
thanks again, i am so happy to be able to see videos of such, with you all...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Thanks Mike B, I was wondering that as well.
2 other questions to throw in the mix:
Was this the hardest climb in the valley when it first went up?
What was the reaction people had to the palm gloves?
Great effort & a beautiful line.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 18, 2014 - 10:32pm PT
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AMaZinG
One of the best shot vids I've seen.
So did Randy put it up?
No way did he make it look easy, even for him. Those moves up under the roof are a b*tch.
Now I don't feel so bad when I'm up under a roof and struggling to not fall out.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 10:33pm PT
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Book of Hate 5.13d FP(bolted by): Rolland Arsons, by 1999; FA: Randy Leavitt, 1999
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 10:36pm PT
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Where's the route located, Ed? Which cliff, what area?
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Apr 18, 2014 - 10:41pm PT
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It's a striking corner from a distance and the climbing looks really, really hard. I heard a story that Leavitt trained for it by pushing large stacks of tires around. TFPU.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 18, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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bluey
From the link posted on the previous page
It is in the Elephant's Graveyard, left of Elephant Rock
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Rudbud
Gym climber
Grover Beach, CA
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Apr 18, 2014 - 10:55pm PT
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Was that a pink point?
Honestly though, Randy is Rad period.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 19, 2014 - 12:45am PT
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Thanks RyanD!
Randy Leavitt is the footwork master! One can learn much from this display of near perfection.
Pretty sure he donned the gloves for pure palm adhesion.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Apr 19, 2014 - 02:16am PT
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Amazing footwork. Yea, it didn't look easy for him. But the footwork looked sooo precise. Very nice find Ryan.
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Apr 19, 2014 - 04:28am PT
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dope.
RyanD: king of unearthing the sweet obscurities...
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 19, 2014 - 11:53am PT
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Great find! Super psyched to go climbing after work today!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Bump for an awesome video. Randy Leavitt is a badass. Respect.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I have a love hate relationship with this climb
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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I have a love hate relationship with everyone who climbs like that! So great.
Pretty sure he donned the gloves for pure palm adhesion.
I also was doubting that he put stealth rubber gloves on just to "cover the holes in his palms."
But hey, whatever.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Pretty cool but "quiet please"?
You got to admit the guy "encouraging" him was getting annoying :)
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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There is some irony in shouting "focus!" while someone else is climbing :)
I can't remember watching a climbing vid that sucked me into feeling more anxious. I don't normally like electronic music soundtracks, but this one fit.
GNARLY climbing.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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not a fan of the gloves but I love the quiet please.
The world could use a bit more quiet please
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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That was great.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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not a fan of the gloves
Why not? I was wondering about my own discomfort with that aspect.
Once "we" said that friends were cheating.
I met Randy a few times in the 80's. I was impressed.
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Leggs
Sport climber
Made in California
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that was awesome... TFPU
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I have nothing but the utmost respect for Randy. I've also aid climbed many pitches, I'm no purist, and am not trying to say what's "right." Just saying that I get more satisfaction when I don't wear a glove;)
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
Sep 9, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
That climb looks so hard!
'Am I mistaken or have Tommy Caldwell and Heinz Zak said you can chimney that at 5.10d?'
Interesting question you ask JR...
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Did he have his pro taped to his sling?
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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TFPU. !!!
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Pro was velcroed to sling in the order he would place them.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Three grades harder than The Shadow. Wow!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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I will most humbly add my, "Wow!"
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2014 - 05:31am PT
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Wow! Now I wanna do it! I love that kind of climbing I love that tenuous feeling you get in extreme stemming when you're balancing on just your shoulders or pelvis, and your knees or elbows try to buckle like that. You could see it in the vedauwoo.
Only problem is that the hardest cling of this sort that I've done is .12c...
Where does one get gloves like that?
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| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
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