Book of Hate repeat

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 20 in this topic

matty

Big Wall climber

Valencia, CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 18, 2007 - 11:39pm PT

Has there been one yet? The welcome Randy thread got me wondering...

Yah00

Trad climber

Jan 19, 2007 - 05:57am PT

Platinum Rob worked on it some this summer, dunno any more than that.

matty

Big Wall climber

Valencia, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2007 - 09:44am PT

Thanks, others should know more. A second query: Where in the park is the climb located?

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Jan 19, 2007 - 10:32am PT

It is in the Elephant's Graveyard, left of Elephant Rock

matty

Big Wall climber

Valencia, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2007 - 07:20pm PT

Thanks Peter. For those not familiar:

matty

Big Wall climber

Valencia, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2007 - 07:22pm PT

Anyone else ever use rubber-palm gloves for a climb?

caughtinside

Social climber

Davis, CA

Jan 19, 2007 - 07:27pm PT

gah!! that corner makes me want to puke just looking at it! Looks waaaaaay hard.

Matt

Trad climber

places you shouldn't talk about in polite company

Jan 19, 2007 - 07:32pm PT

i am just hearing the frat brothers in animal house yelling, "YOGA - YOGA..."

matty

Big Wall climber

Valencia, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2007 - 07:32pm PT

Here is a short video clip of the start of the climb, before Randy enters the dihe..before he starts reading. Enjoy

Scroll to Inertia and press the watch clip button.

http://www.totalvid.com/Climbing-Videos

WBraun

climber

Jan 19, 2007 - 08:07pm PT

I've never really heard anyone do it. I's a calf pumper. You can always climb razors edge to the left if you're down there.

Some good obscure routes in that area.

phillygoat

climber

portland,

Jan 19, 2007 - 09:22pm PT

I've seen video of the send and it cracks me up when he tells the onlookers, "Quiet please." I mean, they're cheering their heads off and the climb's not done yet. Book of Hate is absolutely the best thing about that video!

Larry

Trad climber

Bisbee

Jan 20, 2007 - 09:22am PT

"Unfortunately, TotalVid videos are not yet compatible with any non-Windows XP computers."

Pffft...

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Jan 20, 2007 - 10:19am PT

Larry, this clip works on Macs...at least with Safari as browser. BTW it is a good video!

This very creative climb of Randy's is really an amazing, extremely hard and intense achievement that usually is overlooked by many. It was a project for quite some while for him. I am sure it became bloody repulsive after awhile.

I can't remember if it was on ST or rec.climbing, but he has an account of it out there somewhere.

matty

Big Wall climber

Valencia, CA

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2007 - 01:49pm PT

The vid woks on my XP system, so I'm not sure what's up...

And a TR somewhere on the web? This I must find!!!

I also love the "quite please" moment, paints a picture of intense focus. Plus it's such a wonderfully stark contrast to the newer bouldering vids where an entourage goes wild everytime their talentend friend gets on some hard route they could never do. Gets pretty lame after a while.

Gunkie

climber

East Coast US

Jan 23, 2007 - 03:47pm PT

Holy crap! I finally downloaded the whole video [$7] and watched it. Those moves just before the rest at the top looked horrific. I had eaten just prior to watching this and *I* thought I was going to puke.

Wow.

James

climber

A tent in the redwoods

Jan 26, 2007 - 06:24pm PT

The Book of Hate is a beautiful line. The corner is perfectly split, steep, and clean. I've been down to the Graveyard a couple of times with Rob. Ivo says it's 10d chimney. Heinz told him. Rob was spitting distance from the anchors a couple of times. AT 10d...it's a little hard for the grade.

Leavittator

climber

san diego, ca.

Jan 30, 2007 - 12:30pm PT

Doug Englekirk made the second ascent a few years back. With binos, we watched him from across the Valley. It was epic. He was run out on those ball nuts (new, micro cams would be better pro these days) when his feet cut loose at the end of the run leaving only his shoulders pressed into the stem. If anyone of you have seen Doug climb when maxed-out, you can imagine what a show he puts on. Really impressive effort. Doug and I couldn't make sense of the chimneying Heinz did. It must be his body type + it is hard to pull slack when leading that way. When I went there with Heinz, he did large sections of the crux in a chimneying position. Either way, the climb burns your legs!