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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:17am PT
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Thank you all for replacing bolts.....
to be more specific... Some are historical, e.g. The bolt placed by Ax Nelson way up on Castle Rock spire... Its not really needed now because a #3 cam may be placed next to it. (they didn't have 3 inch pins BITD) That bolt has the bent aluminum hanger.... and AX placed it with his own hands... grab it, feel it and your touching AX's handi work..... At the Needles, first pitch of Spook Book, there was a bolt Kamps placed... in a hurry... it was 1/2 way in, bent over like a poorly pounded nail with a spinning hanger. We used it for like 25 years. Now in its place is a bomber 3/8 one... solid and functional, but the old one had character. That bolt should have been left in place with the new one adjacent to it... just so modern cragsters could get a glimpse of the "old style".
At places that are heavily used, go ahead and replace and add more if need be to make good anchors, im down with that. And get rid of all webbing rap stations, thats a good thing to do.
Just call me a hopeless romantic.
The three amigos
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 27, 2015 - 07:34am PT
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^^Nice!
Posing down at Smith Rock Rockfest, Late 90's:
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Feb 27, 2015 - 10:17am PT
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Guyman,
we try to do the best we can with respect to the historical nature of the bolts. For example, on the Shaft, at Pinnacles National Park the 5.10 route is an old 1/4" bolt ladder with 10 bolts. The 8th bolt is a bolted piton(hole drilled in the blade for the stud, you clip the eye). Since there were seven good, closely-spaced bolts, below it I left it in place.
On the Northeast corner of the Monolith, the only protection on the whole pitch was Mark Powell's bolted piton. We had to replace that for safety sake. If we had just put a new bolt next to it, someone would have mistaken it for a belay.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 27, 2015 - 11:21am PT
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That JT crew looks like they belong on the Yellow Bricks with Dotty and Toto.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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Feb 27, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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Guy, those are three of the UGLIEST girls I have ever seen.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 12, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 12, 2015 - 03:49pm PT
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Broke out the scanner this week for the first time in years, so I don't think these have been seen before.
Fuzzy shot (hey, it was cold!) of Steve Larson starting into the crux on Black Dike in 1979. Whillans harness, Dachstein mitts, Lowe hummingbird & Chouinard alpine hammer. The hammer broke when he was halfway up the lead, leaving Steve in a precarious position.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 12, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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Another shot of Steve running it out on the scary part of Black Dike. The ice was so thin I followed this pitch by letting my wool mitts freeze to the rock, just for balance.
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Tobia
Social climber
Denial
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Mar 12, 2015 - 05:02pm PT
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First weeks in Yosemite April 1978. Myself and Steve Sereda, Cathedral Peak.
I'm the poser, Steve was the climber. I put all the gear on to send a pic to home. Still Rainin', Still Dreamin'
Steve Sereda
Myself
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 12, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
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1974
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Mar 12, 2015 - 06:23pm PT
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Chiloe-Most Excellent Pix of the Black Dike! What a line! (my own ascent was kinda late, '81 or maybe '82.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 13, 2015 - 07:04am PT
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What a line! (my own ascent was kinda late, '81 or maybe '82.
Not too late to recall Chouinard's wonderful 1971 description of this route,
"A black, filthy, horrendous icicle 600 feet high. Unclimbed."
Or John Bouchard's solo first ascent -- in that same year!
The route had some charisma in those days.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 30, 2015 - 02:30pm PT
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Happy Thursday....
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Apr 30, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 30, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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rbolton
Guy, those are three of the UGLIEST girls I have ever seen.
My thoughts exactly! Good gawd, what were they thinking?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 30, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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More ugly GF's .... It was the style BITD
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 30, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
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What's the icy bivouac, Philo?
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philo
Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
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Apr 30, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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From a winter attempt on the Nose of Chasm View from BITD.
From right before the blizzard and freeze nearly killed us.
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richross
Trad climber
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Apr 30, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 30, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
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Chiloe. great shots of the Dike! its still a special climb if you can get on it without a crowd. a few weeks ago
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