I have to confess that time-wise I've been unable to keep up with all the posts, so forgive me if I spout off on things already hashed out. Regarding our use of Zamac rivets, our intent was several fold: keep the commitment level high, create something reliable for future ascent parties, leave as small of a footprint as possible. No device is best at even two of these, let alone all three. We felt the Zamac was the best device available to compromise all three concerns. I still feel that the Zamac was the best choice because I haven’t seen anything else that does a better job at balancing these three issues. However, given the flack we’ve taken for them, having to do over we likely would have chosen something else out of respect for the will of community at large. But I should note that when Tom told me that he was going to replace the rivets on the first two pitches I asked him if he would save the removed rivets for me. He gave me four of them. The stainless steel nails which are the key to their strength had essentially no corrosion and looked as strong as the day they were place. The lead alloy sleeves have become noticeably brittle, but seem to have more than enough integrity to keep the nails in place. I would much rather lead the climb today with modern screamer technology than I would with new rivets and no screamers. My major point is that we intended to leave a repeatable route and the recently removed rivets indicate that we succeeded.
Dang it, Teth/darod... I was the FIRST one to post the sarcasm about protecting MY resource, THEN Matt hopped on MY bandwagon. Then I upped the ante. But it's MY bandwagon! MINE, MINE, MINE! Don't you see??? (sniff, sniff). I'm so misunderstood! (sniff, sniff) You guys are sooooo MEAN! (sniffle) (I take back everything I said about sharing a beverage with you, darod... you meanie!)
(On my site, from which that pic is taken, there's another with a thumb holding it, which gives a sense of scale. Both of the pics show hooks that did hold body weight.)
OVERdrive, Pete? You have no idea. I put pitons into pin scars, when HB nuts would have been perfect. THEN, I take a two-pound sledge to 'em until that ol' eye is FLUSH. "Rising tones???" Bah! Don't need 'em! THEN, I pull out the five-pounder for a few extra whacks, you know, just to make sure! THEN, because I hate to fall... ever... I have Mark send me up the two-handed twenty-pounder, I lean waayyy back in my aiders, pull that big brute waaayyy back, and give that piton ONE more good hit, just for good measure! THEN, finally, I give that puppy racks-over-the-head, agressive testing before I eeeeaaaassse up on it.
Oh, and then I notice that I had threaded a manky old 1/2-inch tie-off through the eye of it, and I'm scared anyway! Does THAT answer your question?
Some of you have been asking, who is this Mark guy? Relative to Richard, he seems like a real nice, some have said “reserved.” And he never descends into ALL CAPS. Looking over the recent posts, it seems like a good time to shed some light on this. The main difference it twofold. First and most importantly, Richard doesn’t care a whole lot about being PC, at least relative to me, when being PC conflicts with saying what needs to be said. So I while I’m putting a big chunk of my neural power into thinking about how others will “feel” when they read what I write, Richard uses his neural power toward considering what needs to be said and whether it is logically consistent. Second, esp. over the last few weeks, I’ve been insanely busy with other demands which means you hear less from me. The truth is that Richard and I are much more similar in real life than we appear and philosophically are pretty close to twins. So feel free to address us collectively and know that if you met us you’d probably conclude that I’m more opinionated and Richard is more flexible than you would have expected.
pete said, "Wings of Steel may be the most overdriven piton in the history of this forum! Recently, I scored as the Second-Most Loquacious after Lois, with a word count of 141 per post. Can someone please calculate Richard Jensen's average word count? He might be #1!"
Puhlease, you have an enginering degree right pete? Please factor in WHAT is being said into the actual word count. In terms of the BS level, there is no equal to LEB. Factor in that she is a troll and I take that as meaning that all her posts are 100% BS.
uhoh. That means you guys might be #1 and #2 on the Real Scale...But hey, if it helps you guys any, I personaly would rather read 100 words from a real character than 1 from a troll.
I've tried to follow nearly all of the WoS epic (including the original WoS threads) but recently it seems to have exploded and amplified exponentially in many directions so it's possible that I've missed or passed over several critical points of argument (is there a Cliff Notes or Grand Flow Chart version in the works?).
Months back I recall talk of topos: the published Reid topo (which I have), another published topo, and also talk of an original lost topo ... can someone please post a clear, reliable, and verified topo of the route?
PS: I understand that the FAists carefully recorded their aid placements en route. I also realize that the FAist's memories may be faulty on this one point, but if at all possible can you please post a marked-up topo that identifies the location of the enhanced hook placements?
Thanks a bunch.
(This is getting burly, maybe time to split into part XXVI)