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gerardvanlaar
Boulder climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 11, 2014 - 12:00am PT
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Hi all,
I'm a sport climber and have an idea of a device to measure the amount of rope given out by the belayer, so that they know how much rope is available. It would be mostly for more novice climbers, who don't know the area well or are not yet great in estimating the length of a route.
-A midway point on the rope does the job, but you might miss it.
-The tope book should tell you, but it would be good to know how much rope is left in case you're zig-zagging or are in unknown territory.
-Bi-pattered ropes are great, but not many people seem to use them, and you can't see it in the dark.
Would you like such a device or you wouldn't want it?
Thanks,
Gerard
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 11, 2014 - 12:11am PT
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Only if it had a siren and flashing red lights that read "Yer gonna die!!!" when you hit halfway.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 11, 2014 - 12:15am PT
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If you are a sport climber then why does it say boulder climber by your avatar?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 11, 2014 - 12:33am PT
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Putting a knot in the rope is easy, quick and pretty darn affordable.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 12:47am PT
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I might have liked that back when I started climbing. How much rope is left? Less than last time you asked!
Would it work both ways, taking up and giving out slack?
I guess It would be nice to give one of these to my wife or other friends I con into belaying.
I don't really understand the use for sport climbing, but maybe trad when you're trying to figure out where to build an anchor.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:10am PT
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How would it know the length of the rope that it's starting with?
50m? 60? 70m?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:19am PT
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the belayer could just tie in to their end, which prevents the worst accident contingency...
other wise, you could practice estimating how much rope you have... when I stack the rope I usually do it the same way, with a regular pattern... when I'm asked "HOW MUCH ROPE?!" I can usually estimate by counting loops and multiplying by the loop length.
but that's me... I also climb with 80m ropes, the usual answer is "YOU'VE GOT PLENTY!"
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:57am PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 11, 2014 - 02:09am PT
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I can't even post after that.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Feb 11, 2014 - 02:34am PT
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An electronic c*#k ring?! I can imagine it, like one of those GPS units that talks to you:
"You now have 4.5" of 'rope' out"
"You have 5" of 'rope' out"
(partner) "Hey, you told me your 'rope' was 8"!"
"You now have 3" of 'rope' out, the sheath is worn, and your dry treatment is failing"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 02:35am PT
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What a bunch of Luddites.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Feb 11, 2014 - 02:36am PT
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Rong has spoken.
Therefore, this thread has officially gone to sh#t.
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Braunini
Big Wall climber
cupertino
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Feb 11, 2014 - 02:49am PT
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Rong has spoken.
Therefore, this thread has officially gone to sh#t.
Ron is retarded, but you have some serious issues dude.
namaste
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 03:00am PT
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I agree with Ron on this...
....whatever else, he's been climbing for a long time and has that experience to share.
At some point you've climbed long enough to know how much rope is left by looking at the rope (and also knowing the climbs).
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John M
climber
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Feb 11, 2014 - 03:06am PT
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Locker is right, no extra devices. Instead, incorporate a rolling measuring instrument in your belay device that dings when it gets to the half way point. Or dings at whatever measurement you want.
fake LOCKER beat me to it.
but has he copy righted it???? bwhahahaha..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 11, 2014 - 04:05am PT
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It will have a digital readout on your google belay glasses!!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 11, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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Ron is retarded, but you have some serious issues dude.
For once I agree with you Braunini, bringing petty posts about somebody in a thread like this is worst than my off topic postings. ;-)
Anyway, to the OP, IMO no need for such a device if you learn how to climb properly and gain experience. But if you design and produce one and NooBs are gonna buy it, fair play to you, gotta make money somehow, ask Gary Dahl, he made some millions off the Pet Rock.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 11, 2014 - 08:12am PT
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Siri knows. Ask her.
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Feb 11, 2014 - 09:28am PT
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It should be required equipment for guidebook writers. It's funny to read two guidebooks with widely different pitch lengths. Important information when you want to combine pitches.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Feb 11, 2014 - 10:14am PT
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Like Ed, I look at the rope and estimate how much is in a loop and then count how many loops there are. Very precise. So the leader calls down and asks how much rope. I figure each loop is 5' long so 10' per loop. 4 loops means 40' so I tell him 30'. He knows I always underestimate for safety's sake and assumes he has 50'. After a few minutes we start to simulclimb. Next pitch when I think there is 50' left I tell him 25 to compensate because I hate simulclimbing. He stops to drill from an awful stance for fear he won't make the next gear placement. And so it goes.
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