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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 11, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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Two things:
1. There is already a vast improvement on a middle mark, that is pretty much impossible to miss: the bi-color/bipattern. There are also ropes with about foot wide marking at the middle and at ~10m from each end.
2. That's not Locker. That L0cker. with a zero. An imposter.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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Just solo. Then you don't have these problems.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:14pm PT
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RFID tags embedded in the core with a sensor on the belay device. The sensor is linked by blue tooth to your smart phone, and the leaders phone. A sexy voice tells you how much rope is left. Hell I am even going to link the data to the internet so the whole world knows where you are on the sharp end. Your GPS has already figured out what climb you are on. As you climb it tells you what gear to place and where to place it.
Not really that far off in the future
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:16pm PT
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Jon Beck = designer winner
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:39pm PT
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But what about those ropes where I left the tail hanging out the trunk and didn't notice until we got to Oakdale? Chop 10 meters off one end, now that RFID middle mark means the whole rope is toast. Same with bi-color ropes.
Just need a die/marker that doesn't cause the rope to break down when you mark it.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
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But what about those ropes where I left the tail hanging out the trunk and didn't notice until we got to Oakdale? Chop 10 meters off one end, now that RFID middle mark means the whole rope is toast. Same with bi-color ropes.
Solid evidence that you are too dumb to live and should be culled from the gene pool, lest you pollute it by reproducing. Taking the chop in that case is a feature, not a bug.
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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Feb 11, 2014 - 01:59pm PT
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This device is called Sharpie Rub-A-Dub Laundry pen. Mark your rope every 10 feet and that'is it.
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Feb 11, 2014 - 02:13pm PT
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But what about those ropes where I left the tail hanging out the trunk and didn't notice until we got to Oakdale? Chop 10 meters off one end, now that RFID middle mark means the whole rope is toast. Same with bi-color ropes.
technology is an amazing thing. Someone might figure out how to tell the software that a noob chopped the rope. RFID tags can be reprogrammed. That small RFID tag holds 32 bits of data that can be read by the sensor. You could simplify the system by just embedding a tiny ball bearing and sensing that passing the belay device
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 11, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
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In answer to the original question...tape measure. Heh. Actually, Metolius use to put remarkable little tufts in their ropes to mark the middle and close to the ends. Even in the dark you could "feel" where you were. Folks complained about mistaking the 30 feet from the end with the middle. It might behoove you to make a mark with a rope marker 30' from the end. When I remark my middles I make it BIG...like 3 inches or more, so a single band for an end, where you have a lot of time to look for it as you pay rope out, might be a good idea for you. Most of us just shake the rope out, decide what the real length is and deduct 3 feet off that as we yell it up.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/858395/middle-mark
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 12, 2014 - 12:16pm PT
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I used to think that marking the rope near the ends was a good idea until I witnessed a party rapping off of Jorge's Crack at the Pinnacles. I forget what we were on, but the ropes from that party were lowered, one end on the ground, the other was high above; no knots tied in the rope ends. The party at the anchors couldn't see the ground, one of the party was rapping and came over the lip. I called up to point out that the rope end wasn't on the ground. She got excited and retreated back to the anchors.
They sorted it out and she came down, quite flustered and thanked me, said her Dad, which was her partner, had been climbing for a long time and never had had an accident. She trusted him completely. But they had mistaken the end mark of the rope for the middle mark.
Since then I've been unhappy with end marks that look like middle marks... and they all do in some condition or another.
Maybe manufactures could go to tri-color or quad-color ropes? I have a uni-color 80m rope, I usually smudge a middle mark in with my Blue Water rope pen. So far I haven't broken a rope.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Feb 12, 2014 - 03:51pm PT
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"But what about those ropes where I left the tail hanging out the trunk and didn't notice until we got to Oakdale? Chop 10 meters off one end, now that RFID middle mark means the whole rope is toast. Same with bi-color ropes.
Simple solution... chop 10m off the other end and the center is, again, the center.
Do I win, Werner?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Feb 12, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
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...but locker, you can only measure in micro- inches then.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Feb 12, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
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....troll
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