Where Have All The Old Climbers Gone?

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ladyscarlett

Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
Feb 5, 2014 - 04:52pm PT
Yes yes, where have you all gone?!

Shall we go climbing?

;)

Cheers

LS
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Feb 5, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
Like many here on ST my forays with climbing began as a result of a love for the outdoors, particularly the mountains having first experienced them camping with family as a fisherman then with my buddies as a backpacker. Climbing resonated with me instantly when I was first introduced to it by joining a junior high school friend out at Stoney Point in the mid 60’s.

I do believe that most of the “lifers” have at their core a love of nature which keeps them at it as the mountains call and they are able to get up and outside. I’ve never separated other mountain pursuits such as skiing and backpacking as anything different, I think of it all as mountaineering. Moving over mountainous terrain whether it be rock, ice, snow or dirt skillfully is all part of the game.

I’d also say there are more old climbers out there these days than ever before in fact doing some impressive feats in my opinion. Back in the 60’s the only “old guy” I remember was John Mendenhal hammering out his malleable pitons at Lunch Rock there at Tahquitz. Certainly some of the notable figures of American climbing in that Golden Age where there too. Naturally they seemed old to me as a teenager but were really only in their 20’s and 30’s.

Another observation without over generalizing is that many of the boldest climbers of the day didn’t stick with it. I’ve often thought that their passion had more to do with the competition associated with the game then a love of a spirit we sense in the mountains. Once their bodies and drive began to wane and they could no longer compete at a high level as it does with age they dropped out.

Like many of you climbing has been a defining aspect of my life. I hope to continue moving over stone for the rest of my days. I would suggest as some have here on ST the best way to stay in shape is to never ever let yourself get out of shape. Let us not forget to thank the mountain gods as they call us to their flanks for ibuprofen....long may you climb!!!!!

Berg Heil,

Charlie D.
Chris Wegener

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Feb 5, 2014 - 08:01pm PT
Interesting discussion.

I mostly agree with RGold about climbing not offering any great emotional or intellectual insights. The only thing I have learned from all my years climbing are: "Go up or go down, but you have to do something."

Firstly climbing is a wealthy persons pursuit. If you live in a culture or economy where starvation is a real possibility then no one will spend time climbing. It requires a well developed economy where the additional labor of any given individual is not required.

Secondly, my impression is that climbing is like many sports an opportunity for young men to gather and socialize without having to admit that is what they are doing.

I say sport intentionally. Most people develop some passion in their life that they follow, even if it is just sitting on the sofa and drinking beer. Some of us are lucky and find a passion that leads us outdoors and to the rocks, but never for a minute imagine that that passion is better, or purer, or more deserving than any other passion. Golf, bowling, off-road motorcycling, running, cooking, flower arranging any activity that a human pursues and find satisfying is as good as any other.

My experience is that those climb for their entire live may feel that passion more strongly but often the reality is that they forgo other pursuits that are just as worthy. Children, marriage even life can be sacrificed for the continued pursuit of climbing.

This does not make it more noble or sublime, just different.

Regards,

Chris
Jim Pettigrew

Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
Feb 5, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
There are several factors....mind and body. If you let yourself get out of shape as you age you're in trouble....it becomes much more difficult to regain conditioning. I know a lot of older climbers still with desire but who are troubled by joint issues. Let's face it, body parts wear out.
Then there are the myriad of climbers who just give into the temptation to sit on the patio, drink in hand, and wax poetic about the good old days.
As energy levels wane with aging, a concerted effort has to be made to get off of the couch. Trust me, once you do that the rest is comparatively easy.

I tend to agree with Jim above! But what's the point did you want a physiology report? Or, are you just wondering what happened to the guys and gals that seemed to have helped to create this wonderful sub-culture that many seem to wish to be included in? Most as I have discovered are just fine and living the life of where the cards fell. Some as all know have passed. Generally speaking, raising families, living, and good grief responsibly taking part in society! Married, raised my kids (both graduated college), riding my bike because my patience level requires instant gratification when I want to work out! Thinking of climbing again! Possible in near future. That's how it has gone for many I suppose.
BBA

climber
OF
Feb 5, 2014 - 10:05pm PT
After being in the military, one is forever a veteran. After putting up with heat, thirst, cold, bears, snakes, ants, dirt filled cracks, climbing partners and one's own stupidity, one is forever a climber. We just don't have a separate word for one who is no longer active.
jstan

climber
Feb 5, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
Many of the responses seem to imply respondents feel their no longer climbing every weekend has, somehow, let someone down. There has been a failure to repay a debt of honor. Two things seem to be revealed.

1. That when we climb, our entrusting our lives to our partner creates a relationship quite unlike any other.

2. That continuing to climb is required to honor that debt and our failure to comply is detracting from one of the seminal experiences of our lives.

Stay with me on this. Those of us who have since undertaken other priorities, still feel a powerful affection. Mind you, love is a relationship out of which both parties expect a return. Affection is given with no need of return. Affection is the higher. And that is what we feel.






east side underground

climber
Hilton crk,ca
Feb 5, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
pettigrew " my patience level requires instant gratification"..... what patience !..heh heh heh
JedHiker

Social climber
Long Beach, CA
Feb 5, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
Regarding balance. I'm seventy and certainly feel the balance issue.
Initially I thought it had to do with the inner ear and balance mechanism within, but am thinking otherwise now that something else might be contributing to the balance issue. It appears that my muscles/tendons in my feet have loosened up like the rubber bushings in a cars steering arms. Once things start shifting around at the feet level, the body follows suit as I try to recover. Has anyone else observed this condition and if so, might there be some physical conditioning that will "tighten up" the body mechanism.
It's not my reaction time as that's still sharp as a tack.
Thanks in advance, Jed
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 5, 2014 - 11:26pm PT
I really don't think it has anything to do with joint laxity. (Nice try.) Chances are you are experiencing the effects of age-related proprioception loss, a combination of neuronal deconditioning and cell loss in the inner ear.

I was shocked to find that I can no longer balance for more than a few seconds on one foot with my eyes closed. I'm still pretty good eyes open, but once I realized what was going on I started to work at it.

There are lots of balance exercises and gadgets (eg wobble boards) you can use. I find a fairly effective exercise is one footed reach and touch: You balance on one foot---say the right foot---and bend over (very partial one-legged deep knee bend) and touch a spot to the right of the right foot with your left hand (so you have to pivot your torso). Three set of ten reps on each foot, or whatever you can do at first.

Just standing on one foot for a long time is good---see if you can work up to five minutes---but also just do it whenever you can, eg when brushing your teeth. If you have a place to do it, stand on one foot and throw a basketball against a wall and catch it. If no wall, just throw something up in the air and catch it. The point is to be doing something else and balance at the same time, hopefully retraining the lost (or decreased) reactions to work without having to give them your full attention.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Feb 5, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
There are lots of balance exercises and gadgets (eg wobble boards) you can use
My trainer has added a lot of balance exercises to my workout. Initially I wondered "why" because it seemed I didn't really have problems with "balance" related sports...skiing, biking, ice skating etc. After doing months of balance related workouts I couldn't believe the difference I felt in strength, increased flexibility, just general sense of body awareness in space. Big advocate of balance related workouts as we age.

Susan
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Feb 5, 2014 - 11:54pm PT
Those of us who have since undertaken other priorities, still feel a powerful affection (jstan)

Very well said, John!
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Technically...the spawning grounds of Yosemite
Feb 6, 2014 - 12:21am PT
Can I legitimately post here having been asked by a family member why I was taking up learning how to climb at my "age"?

Those of us who have been around the block and who haven't had the good sense to leave the field can, in a small way, perhaps give back a little to the miniature world of climbing itself, although whether there is anyone out there who wants to listen is a very real question. - rgold

Even with my very limited climbing experience, it seems to me that climbing is a mentoring activity, like so many others (e.g., learning how to safely be around the ocean). You can read book after book, but this pales in comparison to being engaged in an activity and having a mentor turn to you and explain why he just placed an extra this or that, here or there, and why it is good practice. You just can't get that from a book.

I'm a sponge. I'm all ears. ") There's at least one.


In any case, beyond our own stage, I don't think climbers have much to offer the world, if all they have is their climbing experiences and the lessons learned from them to recount. - rgold

Wrap the lessons in life experience (e.g., learning to wrap your brain around a fellow climber committing suicide, recognizing depression, overcoming perceived failure, assimilating changes in physical abilities as you grow older), and I believe that climbers have plenty to share beyond their own stage. As a newcomer to the campfire, I continue to be blown away on almost a daily basis by the lessons in humanity offered up to me by so many climbers...some of whom I've not even yet had the pleasure of meeting.


Don't get me wrong, I think climbing is a fundamental ingrained human activity, unlike hitting little balls with clubs... - rgold

Golf is every bit as kinesthetic and analytical and adrenaline-riddled as climbing, albeit on a different plane. Don't get me wrong, but I suspect we've been hitting objects with sticks for many a millennia. ;D

This thread is really wonderful...thank you.
covelocos

Trad climber
Feb 6, 2014 - 01:25am PT
I was recently referred to as 'That old fry'... I resemble that!
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Feb 6, 2014 - 10:18am PT
Golf is every bit as kinesthetic and analytical and adrenaline-riddled as climbing...

Are you kidding?? Given: Golf is an acquired skill.

When I was a third grader we got a new school building and playground. The jungle gym--monkey bars were put in a few weeks later. Every boy and girl were on these new toys and no instruction was necessary. We all were climbing. I suppose had there been some golf clubs there, a few emotionally disturbed boys would have started beating on something. Not to mention our distant ancestors habitat was in tress which necessitates climbing wired into the brain. The killing-club was picked up far later, once they had moved to the ground and started eating meat.

About 20 years ago Climbing Mag reported on some University research studying Problem Solving in Athletic Types. The climbers beat all other groups in general problem solving. The lowest scoring group was the the hockey players. Get the likeness both golf and hockey: a stick, a ball and a final location.

The energy dispersed in a 3 sec windup and slam does not equal the anaerobic energy output of a 2:57 min/sec overhanging 100' climb. We don't use the equivalent of golf carts namely elevators to arrive at our destinations.
Abissi

Trad climber
MI
Feb 6, 2014 - 10:55am PT
I have been climbing for 46 years so far. I no longer can comb at the level I did in my early 30's but still have ambitions. My plans now are for the Eiger Northface in 2015, Ama Dablam is still on my tick list. I started climbing a the age of 10 years old and have no intentions on stopping.... ever...
cornel

Big Wall climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Feb 6, 2014 - 11:03am PT
65 in a couple of mos. been a climber for 40 yrs. it has been incredible to say the least.. for me Attitude dictates altitude. There is always a way you to continue doing what you really love. You just have to figure it out. Make the nessary adjustments as the body changes, dietary(lots of herbal and various supplements that can help) keep your training regimen strong - no excuses, stay close to where you need to be...period.. YOGA really helps me too. Oh yes Remain with dissatisfaction..in every facet of your life...Keep your dreams alive...set those goals and make em happen...I will quit climbing, skiing, mountain biking when I am Dead... not one day before...Get out and get it on!!!
cornel

Big Wall climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Feb 6, 2014 - 11:47am PT
In regards to the blessed aspects of climbing...they are there...they are always there...it is amazing what can be seen from time to time..one time I was stuck 2 pitches from the top on the Salathe. It was The first wk of April and a storm came in plastering the last couple of pitches with 3 to 4 inches of verglas.. No ice gear, not even a hammer or a pin so we asked for a little help.. Thinking YOSAR would send a Hurry Up team around the backside to just drop a couple ropes down so we could jug off..They decided instead to call in a chopper to pluck us off. Now as the helicopter approached EL Cap meadow I suddenly saw Angels surrounding the chopper, large, small, and intermediate size, maybe 10 or 12. I was astounded. My eyes were streaming tears. I could not speak. When the heli lifted off I lost the vision and became focused on the skills of the pilot..winds were to big but they swung a bag of pins and a hammer into us. We smashed our way off.. I never mentioned it to my partner..but that was for me a very blessed moment..
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Feb 6, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
That's cool Cornel. You should get somebody to paint the scene of the chopper for you.



cornel

Big Wall climber
Lake Tahoe, Nevada
Feb 6, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
That is a good idea...maybe I will.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
Feb 6, 2014 - 02:54pm PT

...I will quit climbing, skiing, mountain biking when I am Dead... not one day before...Get out and get it on!!!


I admire your spirit! Report back in ten years and let us know how it worked out.


;>)
Messages 121 - 140 of total 174 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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