Metolious Cams = SH#T

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 83 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
WanderlustMD

Trad climber
New England
Jan 7, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
My TCUs have gone years without trigger breakage (or any real fraying, for that matter).

Sounds like you may have had some bad luck. Metolius makes good stuff as far as I have seen and I'm sure they will take care of you.
Lanthade

climber
Jan 7, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet, but the trigger "wires" on master cams are Kevlar, not metal. In theory more susceptible to damage and then failure. Haven't had any problems with mine though...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 7, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
The nice thing about the standard (metal) trigger cables on Friends, Camalots, TCUs, etc. is that they usually visibly fray before breaking.
So you get a chance to replace them.
Vs. the kevlar string on mastercams.
pell

Trad climber
Sunnyvale
Jan 8, 2014 - 12:29am PT
Just do not use Metolius single stem cams in sizes bigger then orange. Small (purple to blue) are good, yellow and orange are OK, red and bigger suck.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 12:38am PT
Vitaliy have you talked to Metolious customer service? They are generally big on safety, at the very least you can make them aware of the issue you experienced.

What am I gonna tell them? "Hi, I placed your cam in a perfect spot and when it was time to take it out the kevlar cable snapped as soon as I applied light pressure to the trigger."
I am sure their response would be something like "ummm do you want a cookie? got your cam stuck huh?"

When I tried to retract the lobes with my hand on one side and move it out I basically just pushed it in downwards and wasn't able to get it. So I have nothing to send them for proof.

Never had so many problems with one brand of cams.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 8, 2014 - 12:45am PT
Just another sign you should take up sport climbing V!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jan 8, 2014 - 12:49am PT
Hexes are durable.

I only have a couple small master cams and they get sticky if I don't keep them really clean, kind of annoying but I like them besides that.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jan 8, 2014 - 12:56am PT
Its true they suck. I placed my #4 fcu in a crack at 90' wall and forgot it. noone returned it!
but i will say that i liked it enough to really want it back.
squishy

Mountain climber
Jan 8, 2014 - 02:19am PT
this? from the guy who never has a camera? I call bullsh#t, Metolious rocks, you suck..how much is BD paying you?
Alpinist63

Mountain climber
Schleck-Country
Jan 8, 2014 - 03:06am PT
on the very first mastercams, there was a problem with the kevlars not well fixed on the cams, so they snapped. I got mine replaced and the new ones work fine
tarallo

Trad climber
italy
Jan 8, 2014 - 06:03am PT
i never had a problem with metolius
try : wired bliss( made in usa ) they are great
totem cams the best (do not follow Mnamara review.....)
Manjusri

climber
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:04am PT
I've been rocking one set of Black Diamond C3/C4s and one set of Metolius mastercams as my base rack for several years now. I've had a few broken wires on the black diamonds but no problems with the kevlar on the mastercams, even though I tend to reach for the metolius first.

I baby my gear, keep it protected from the sun and weather when not in use which I imagine degrades the kevlar and glue quicker. The kevlar seems to handle the day to day abuse of getting crushed in the pack better than the stiff black diamond wires.

I love metolius (esp the offsets) but I still like carrying different brands for a wider array of options to fit odd placements.
all in jim

climber
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:05am PT
"What am I gonna tell them? "Hi, I placed your cam in a perfect spot and when it was time to take it out the kevlar cable snapped as soon as I applied light pressure to the trigger."
I am sure their response would be something like "ummm do you want a cookie? got your cam stuck huh?"

What's the point in speculating what they might say? I speculate that they will send you a replacement. It might be worth it to take the two minutes it takes to call them to find out what they have to say.

I have Metolius tcu's that are 25 years old and still work fine.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 8, 2014 - 10:09am PT
Vitality you need to use your nut tool to walk the cam back out of the crack. Take the hooky part of the tool, and work it into the notches of each cam lobe to contract and move. This method works great with Metolius gear.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO
Jan 8, 2014 - 11:04am PT
Let's see: Climber takes long fall and gets caught without personal injury by a Metolius cam AND then call the cam sh#t because he can't get it out.

Some people just can't be satisfied. Subsequent posts make clear that the "wires" on all brands of cams fail at some point. Sounds to me like gratitude and appreciation for the technology that allows us to pursue this insane sport and survive falling might be in order?

Weird rant! Along the lines of "Standing in a bread line asking for toast."
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2014 - 11:14am PT
Let's see: Climber takes long fall and gets caught without personal injury by a Metolius cam AND then call the cam sh#t because he can't get it out.

WTF are you talking about? I did not fall on this cam, ever. I pulled the trigger to take it out and momentarily the cable snapped.

this? from the guy who never has a camera? I call bullsh#t, Metolious rocks, you suck..how much is BD paying you?

I don't usually bring a camera when I am cragging. How would you know if Metolious rocks, Squishy? You don't even climb dumbass.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jan 8, 2014 - 11:17am PT
The older Metolius cams are bomber construction. I have a set of 4CU's I got in maybe 2000 and they are still working fine. Never even had to replace a trigger wire yet, though they do tend to gum up easily and are more prone to rust than most brands.

However those Kevlar or whatever lace strings they use on the newer cams is total sh#t. You get about 6 months before "Snap"! Every other cam I have I usually get a few years out of the cables. If yours aren't breaking, you're not climbing enough ;)
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Jan 8, 2014 - 11:29am PT
Hmmm. Well I can't comment on your experiences, but I have a large number of Metolious cams that I have been using for the past 20 years without a single problem. My BD Camalots on the other hand have had trigger repair, after trigger repair, after trigger repair.

Maybe contacting Metolious directly and asking them for help before bashing them on internet would be a good idea.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Jan 8, 2014 - 11:30am PT
Just don't f*#kin' fall and you'll be aight.

Simplistic, but it's one philosophy. And pretty damn cheap, I admit. But I don't climb enough to justify commenting fyrthyr. All I really know is nuts and pins.

Real simple, V. Call them and tell them you are Vitaliy and you are not happy with their product. See how delighted they are to deal. You may be amazed. You might even come away happy.

You have the highly-prize ST Cred goin' like no one.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jan 8, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
DMT,

Got a couple Totems over the holidays. When we climb you can try them out if you haven't already.


Vitaly,
Go back, try and get the cam out. Check the base for the string. If it is a bad run of string, then everyone benefits from sending it back to metolius to analyze.
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