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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 3, 2014 - 11:45am PT
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After a couple of days climbing the hard cracks, with torn-up hands (and more likely than not, battered egos) we'd say, "Let's put on our bras and climb at the apron."
I suppose our idea was that climbing low angle slabs built up our pecks, but I for one looked forward to the balance challenges, and climbing with light-weight racks.
Here, I'd like to start a conversation about favorite routes on the apron, a vast piece of solid granite where I'm sure many have unfolded interesting stories to tell.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Sailin' Shoes is a great intro to harder slab and the fist pitch lures you in. Starting on overlapping arches, you place pieces here and there until you break out onto the slab proper. The .10d crux starts slow, but keeps coming until you realize you're gonna make the move to the chains, or not.
The next few pitches are technically easier, but never do you feel like you're on a sport route--the bolts are welcome (and especially so because of the rebolting efforts of our heroes), but the security of their closeness doesn't last for long.
The third pitch is especially eye-catching, you make your way up an arching ledge, and get a piece before climbing a thin left-facing seam. With one piece between you and the belay, the goal is the top of the seam where you can get pro under an overlap. And the fun keeps coming.
Brilliant climbing on a sea of dark grey.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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For me 'Tightrope' was the iconic route on the Apron. It had serious runouts..you could hit the ground from 300' up if you blew the 5.8+ friction moves at the top of the second pitch. It had a lot of varied climbing from face to pure friction. It only had 3 or so bolts per pitch so you really had to have your act together in the head department. It had route-finding difficulties. Thankfully the crux(5.11b or c) was a boulder problem and reasonably well-protected. Tightrope had it all.
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Barbarian
climber
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Monday Morning Right Side - I appreciate that there is still something in Yosemite that I can still lead with my broken down body.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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The Grack Center and Marginal are two of my all-time favorites, although I confess that I, too, still climb Monday Morning Slab not only to get to other routes, but for its own sake. The Daley Route (as it was originally done, not the first pitch of the Chouinard Variation, which is how the route is shown in ST) has been remarkably uncrowded of late, particularly compared with the Grack Center.
John
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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I love the Apron too. My first climb in the Valley was Sunnyside Bench and my second the right side of Monday morning slab.I also liked the old version of the Harry Daley. My first 5.9 was on Coonyard above Monday Morning, which was harder than it might now seem, because of the old kluttershues.
The chief advantage of the Apron back in the day and why it was thought of as girl climbing, is that you didn't have to hammer pitons in and out (I always found getting them out worse than putting them in). I liked having the focus on the climb and not the hardware.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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The new wall route Jericho A2+ just to the left of the death zone is by far my new GPA fav.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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I love the apron !
Love the early classics but I luuurve the Morris/Cantwell era treats such as...
Green Dragon, Mr. Natural, Sailing Shoes, Short but thin, Synapse collapse and Shuttle madness, Son of Sam and... and and and ;)
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Yep, my first 5.11 lead was Green Dragon.
More rcently, I found Goodrich Pinnacle to be quite the excellent (heads up!) adventure.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Almost died from rockfall on green dragon
Never will go back
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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"Short but Thin" (5.11b)
That's over on El Cap just below Sacher Cracker, isn't it?
From the Punch Bowl west to Lean Years is a prime avalanche zone; always has been, always will be. However, the worst time of year is the spring when the melt water loosens up the rocks and scree, but the fall is fairly quiet (sometimes!). September-October-early November is your best bet for a safe non-lethal east Apron visit.
I too almost died at the base of Lean Years not far from Mr Natural-Green Dragon. Absolutely huge boulders raining down. Amazing that I only got the back of my hand whacked good and proper.
Best strategy? Don't go over there until the area has stabilized late in the year.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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mmmm, i have yet to sample large amounts of the apron, but i like what i have been on thus far.
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Barbarian
climber
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I agree with JEleazarian. I've run a number of laps on Grack Center and Marginal over the years. I used to free solo Harry Daley on a regular basis - I loved those perfect jams on the final pitch.
Coonyard has always been fun, and I have a special affinity for Looking for Lichen on Monday Morning for personal reasons.
Now I guess I'm going to plan a trip to do some stink-buggin on the Apron!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Ochre Fields and Hoppy's Favorite are good routes.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Ahhh.... The Apron.
My very first climb in Yosemite Valley was on Glacier Point Apron back in 1978.
My very first 5.11 lead was on the Apron.
Almost all of my free-solos were on the Apron. I used to down-clmb my free-solos on the Apron instead of rapping off.
I used to lead Harry Daley with the lead rope tied in a hangman's noose around my neck (instead of attached to my harness).
I was almost killed on the Apron from rockfall - god a bad gash to the head when I was unroped 200 feet above the ground.
The Apron is one of my all-time favorite climbing areas.
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Grack Marginal, nuff said.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Any Apron climbs done in other than Kronnies or Blue Suedes deserve an asterisk.
Edge, 'heavenly' shot!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Green dragon, goodrich to the oasis, some fun climbing for sure
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Hall of Mirrors
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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The recently published database of Yosemite rockfalls (http://pubs.usgs.gov/ds/746/ ) provides some insight into the seasonality of rockfalls at Glacier Point.
Bruce Morris is broadly correct when he states that rockfalls tend to be more common at Glacier Point in the spring (32%), but the other seasons also see significant activity (summer 27%; fall 20%; winter 21%).
Thus, there is no strong seasonality to rockfalls at Glacier Point, nor in Yosemite Valley in general. This is likely because there are a number of different processes that trigger rockfalls (e.g., rain, snowmelt, freeze-thaw, heat, etc.) operating over different seasons.
So while it may be somewhat safer to climb at Glacier Point in the fall, rockfalls should be expected there at any time.
Greg Stock
Yosemite Park Geologist
(209) 379-1420
greg_stock@nps.gov
PS - I think Mr. Natural is one of the best finger cracks in Yosemite.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Ochre Fields
Goodrich Pinnacle
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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There might not be a huge difference in Glacier point Apron rockfall seasonal timing but there is a big difference between the rocks coming down glacier point center versus far left and far right, where there have been far more severe rockfalls.
PEace
Karl
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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I was talking about seasonal rock fall during the spring on the west side of GPA between Monday Morning Slab and the Punch Bowl. Sure, there's rock fall coming down Goodrich Pinnacle, but that's more like one-zy two-zy and mostly occasional. When it cuts loose on the west end, it's more like a wall of rocks. Why? If you go exploring above Mr Natural up Bad Acid, you'll find innumerable rocks perched on top of each other in all kinds of odd unstable positions ready to cut loose. Of course, how many people have ever gone up exploring "Bad Acid"? Not a nice stable place to be sure! Go see for yourself. Have fun!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Greg has the data on rockfall by volume, or you can check it yourself.
There was a big rockfall which hit the top of Monday Morning Slab sometime between the late 70s and the 90s (I figured out the date at one time but don't recall it at the moment). It left the rock on top of Monday Morning pretty pulverized and took out some trees.
It's also not entirely clear how to distinguish between a "small" and "large" rockfall. It seems any rockfall that's observed could be fatal if it hits you. And even the "large" rockfalls that take down big trees seem to miss people. The big rockfall which killed Peter Terbush spared the guy leading Apron Jam above him. It came down the Punch Bowl, then rolled down along the base and struck Peter. It seems the rockfalls which cover wider areas involve higher risk, though. I'm not exactly sure how the volume translates to area at risk; maybe Greg has done an area/volume-weighted seasonal risk study.
I've been up on Bad Acid, twice. Most recently it was the thick moss that was pretty scary! Also having come down from the top of Glacier Point to rap down Hall of Mirrors for rebolting, there are definitely lots of rocks here and there up high. I haven't had any close calls with rockfall there, but it may be due to luck.
I'd say Mr. Natural is my favorite there also. I've repeated many of the other moderate climbs, including Angel's Approach and have enjoyed most of them. This includes the original Harry Daley p1 which John mentioned. It was the first 5.8 for many people back in the day. It still has the mangled bong at the upper crux!
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Byran
climber
Yosemite
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The Apron is cursed by it's low angle and north facing aspect. No sun in the winter and all day sun in the summer, without a doubt the GPA has the shortest climbing season of any formation in the Valley. That combined with the fact that most of the routes are beyond my ability means I haven't done much there.
Slab is the only style of climbing that I've never been able to break out of the 5.10 grade, and not for a lack of trying. The furthest I've ever made up the GPA is a linkup of Cold Fusion > Point Beyond > Angels Approach, and that was pushing it a bit. Came down all dehydrated and sunburned. Good type 2 fun.
Personally I prefer my slab to be a little bit more featured and a little higher angle. Like the Apron on Middle Cathedral, or the knobby stuff in Tuolumne and Whitney Portal.
I guess my favorite route on the GPA is Mr Natural (with Apron Jam to start), although Goodrich Right is also pretty good and the Grack Center is probably the best climb of it's grade in Yosemite.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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It seems any rockfall that's observed could be fatal if it hits you.
I got hit on the Apron by a cantelope-sized rock. I thought it was going to miss me, but it took a wild bounce at the last second and almost took off my head. I was sure that I was a dead man it was bleeding so badly and hurt so much. I was a couple hundred feet up and I wasn't on a rope.
When those rocks are moving that fast, it doesn't take a large rock to kill you.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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anyone got pictures of the mr. natural?
that there is a beautiful crack.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jared on Mr. Natural - April 27, 2008:
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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That granite on the Apron is just so beautiful. When you get up a few pitches, you just feel the sheets and sheets of perfect surface cascading all around you, like living inside of a pearl.
I'll never forget the day in November Nutjob and I came off of the last rap from Goodrich, Right and the sky entered into its Sunset-of-the-Year garb. The entire surface of the Apron began glowing a warm pink hue like the light was coming from the rock itself and lighting up the sky, rather than the other way around.
Tried to capture it in this vid, didn't get it of course. I was ready to tie back in and cast off on Goodrich again, just to swim into that perfect, warm plane of glowing pink granite. Like the allure you feel when standing at the end of a high pier on a glassy day... You just want to jump in.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Some more pics:
Scott had to lead through this wet streaks:
And one of Mr. Natural:
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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That pink! Truly a glorious moment. I remember it clearly, and le_bruce, your words captured it better than the point and shoot camera video ever could.
I could use a healthy does of Glacier Apron right about now.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 09:08pm PT
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Ah Yikes!! Soloing in the Apron must be a rush. I can't imagine down-climbing from high up.
Great shots. And I'm glad to see Ocher Fields represented! What a beauty that is, staring with a 5.5 crack that traverses the lip if a huge roof, then straight up off the belay, so if you fall it feels like you'd fly into space over the lip.
Such a cool spot!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Mr. Natural and Son of Sam.
Used to go to the Apron and just traverse all over the bottom. Just working on my footwork.
Good Times!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice that the rock steepens above the slabs....reminds me of ice climbs with avalanche slopes above them.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Yay Apron climbing!
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 20, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
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Not the Apron proper,
but was looking at this part of
a Vern Clevenger photo of Illilouette
Canyon, and saw route potential in these
interesting cracks and faces.
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AlanDoak
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:31pm PT
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I love the Apron!! I wish we had one in Colorado.
My first friction slab climb ever was Marginal, I got scared and bailed. When one of my friends sent it, I got super pissed at myself and looked for any slab I could toprope so I could go back and lead Marginal. I sent it and was hooked on slab for life.
I haven't found anything else like the Apron, so smooth and polished.
Until Alex repeated HoM, it seemed like that route was like Atlantis, Easter Island or the Pyramids: an ancient monument from some lost civilization.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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Alan.....so smooth and polished. And you want one in Rado....my oh my.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 21, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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I've always loved the Apron ever since it was the second place in the Valley where I climbed. First Apron climb was M.M Slab, Right Side with Jan (Baker) Sacherer and Roger Dalke. I then climbed the M.M Slab, Left Side in the mid 1970's with Neil Johnson while I was doing a Post-Doc at UCSC. We went on and did the Grack, Center on the same trip. Also did first pitch of Grack, Left Side but ran out of time and daylight to do the finish. On another trip, Neil and I completed Harry Daley Route on M.M. Slab.
I came back in 1980 while in the throes of my first divorce and again did Grack, Center, followed by Harry Daley Route. Finished thing off nicely with Point Beyond on the same day.
With Anne Carrier in 1981, we did the Grack, Center Route; Grack, Left Side Route; Grack, Marginal; and Grack, Right Side. We also did Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route and another repeat of Harry Daley Route.
P.S. added in "edit:" I'd still like to do some of my "unfinished business" on the Apron, especially Goodrich Pinnacle, Right Side; The Mouth, Regular Route (Anne took a bad whipper leading that one in 1982); and another runnout classic, Angel's Approach to Lucifer's Ledge.
Since these trips, I've avoided the Apron due the perceived rock fall...
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Jan 21, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Nobody else ever done Tightrope? At one point in 1978 my partner and I had done every known free route(and several unknown routes as well!) on the Apron. A couple of days ago I asked him what his favorite route was on the Apron and without hesitation he replied, "Tightrope."
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 21, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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I climbed it with Randy Hamm and he did ALL the leading. I had a cast on my left ankle. Yep. Clean, too.
Can't say the same for the socks I had over the cast.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Jan 21, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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I've always loved climbing over there. Stacks of great routes for sure.
Greg
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Jan 21, 2014 - 07:13pm PT
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Ochre Fields and Dead Babies were a couple of memorable ones... man that was 33 years ago. :O
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Jan 22, 2014 - 01:06am PT
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Mouse-
That's a great picture of Apron Jam!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Jan 22, 2014 - 11:13am PT
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 22, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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Conyard, Grack Marginal, Patio, Calf, Goodrich, The Oasis...I used to love the Apron in early days. Funny as my climbing career progressed I spent less and less time over there. When I finally retired, I hadn't been to the Apron in years.
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Jan 22, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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Following up on some of the earlier posts about rockfalls at the Apron (and not to detract from the great climbing content), I think it is interesting to look at the distribution of talus at the base of the Apron. Remember that this talus has all accumulated in the past 15,000 years or so, since the last glacier retreated from Yosemite Valley.
You can clearly see the talus distribution in the image below, which was derived from airborne lidar data and has the vegetation removed. Monday Morning Slab is in the center of the image. It's not entirely clear to me whether the large talus piles on either side of MMS are the product of incremental deposition by small rockfalls or whether they are more a product of a few really large rockfalls, but I prefer the former interpretation based on the morphology of the talus slopes. Based on that interpretation, the observations by Bruce and Karl above appear to be borne out over geologic timescales, i.e. that there is more rockfall to the east and west of MMS. Features like the Punch Bowl have clearly funneled a lot of rockfall debris and would consequently be more "rockfall prone".
Here's another view:
When we measured talus volumes beneath various cliffs in Yosemite Valley and normalized those volumes by the size of the cliff above, we actually found that many cliffs (El Capitan, Cathedrals, Three Brothers) had higher rates of rockfall than Glacier Point over thousand-year timescales. Make of that what you will.
Greg Stock
Park Geologist
(209) 379-1420
greg_stock@nps.gov
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 22, 2014 - 03:53pm PT
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GeeStock amazes us again!!
Heck of an image, Greg. Thanks for the explanation and theorizing.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 22, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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Thanks for sharing this stuff Greg.
Bump for a great place. Some pics from a fun day on Coonyard with Davidji a few years ago:
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 22, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
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Greg,
I've always felt like Monday Morning Slab was on the center of a subtle ridge that would divert falling rocks to either side, so it doesn't surprise me to see bigger talus piles on either side of MMS.
And Mouse, do you still see Randy? I haven't seen him since my Berkeley days.
John
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 22, 2014 - 05:17pm PT
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I used to lead Harry Daley with the lead rope tied in a hangman's noose around my neck (instead of attached to my harness).
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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FStock: "When we measured talus volumes beneath various cliffs in Yosemite Valley and normalized those volumes by the size of the cliff above, we actually found that many cliffs (El Capitan, Cathedrals, Three Brothers)"
When measured by my experience of just 30 years, I've seen more rockfall at El Capitan, Cathedrals, and the Three Brothers than at the Apron and i've hung at the apron a lot. Not as Catestropic at El Capitan and the Cathedrals, but more frequent
Peace
Karl
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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G-Stock wrote:
...derived from airborne lidar data and has the vegetation removed.
Stunner imagery. Would LOVE to see more if you have other corners of the Valley similarly imaged?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Always seems to be spitting rock over on the west side beneath the Punch Bowl. Heard from Bob Harrington back in 1975 or so that it was pretty active over there. Never had reason not to believe him. I think frequency has a lot to do with whether you'll get hit by rockfall or not. Sure, a big catastrophic rock avalanche will obliterate everything at the base. But all it takes is one good hit to knock your head clean off. And if there are a lot of frequent individual rocks coming down, there's a pretty good chance you'll be a target. That's the way it is over below the Punch Bowl. A big giant avalanche every once in a while. But every day, spit, spit, spit, spit.
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Sid Mo
climber
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Jan 30, 2016 - 08:02am PT
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Lived in Curry in 70s and did all Apron routes that were up then and put two up ourselves, but never met anyone else that liked the Punch Bowl. Rockfall was an issue but from what I'm reading may have gotten worse. What was funny were the frisbees any trash cans thrown down from G.P.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 31, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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hey there say,k-man ... wow, neat thread... i missed this one...
had been busy this month...
thanks for sharing... neat pics, too, and info and shares, :)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jan 31, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
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Tightrope is a good one. Can't believe nobody had mentioned Misty Beethoven or a Mother's Lament, both rites of passage on the Apron.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Jan 31, 2016 - 02:16pm PT
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^^^misty was good back in the day. so was the perfect master!
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jan 31, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Jan 31, 2016 - 03:58pm PT
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Looking for change.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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Jan 31, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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Way back in about 1956 or 57, Ellen Searby and I got way up exploring a new route - I don't even know which one - pushed a little too long before retreating, and noticed a crowd gathering in the meadow to see the Firefall as the sun went down.
If you aren't familiar with that, the Curry Co. used to burn a huge pile of red fir bark on Glacier Point, and just after dark someone in the valley would shout through a megaphone with immense drama, " Let the fire fall!!". And the guys on top would slowly push a torrent of glowing coals over the edge, creating quite a spectacular display while a loudspeaker in the background played "Indian Love Call". Unbelievably hokey. But people loved it.
Anyway, we figured if anyone spotted our headlamps there would be all kinds of excitement and agitation for a rescue and we'd be in trouble. So we just hunkered down and waited, trying to look inconspicuous, and the fire fell. Almost all of it stopped on the big ledge - just a few bits whizzed by us.
After everyone left the meadow we cautiously resumed our rappels, trying not to use the lamps.
The Firefall was discontinued a few years later, being recognized as the artificial display that it was, and because Stoneman Meadow threatened to become a dust bowl from the crowds, and because all the red fir bark for miles around had disappeared.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jan 31, 2016 - 04:57pm PT
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GPA in Winter
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 31, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
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I gave myself a new scanner for Christmas & scanned this slide from 1975 yesterday.
The Mouth, with Gary Clark following Dave Neff. Gary had PA's & he was a very unhappy slab climber that day. Dave & I, with EB's had a great time.
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Jan 31, 2016 - 07:51pm PT
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Lots of fun times on GPA back in the 70's
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Jan 31, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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some fun in the 80s too
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Jan 31, 2016 - 11:32pm PT
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BVB wrote:
Tightrope is a good one. Can't believe nobody had mentioned Misty Beethoven or a Mother's Lament, both rites of passage on the Apron.
Yes! Mother's Lament! The fourth pitch has real pucker factor regardless if you do the original 5.10c line to the left or the 5.11 more direct line to the right which has about a 50' runout on 5.11a or so climbing. I seem to remember the next pitch being only 5.9, but there was no protection and the belay was a single 1/4" bolt.
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