Karma done again!

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Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Dec 22, 2011 - 06:03pm PT

There's nothing to stop anyone who wants to repeat the route from rappelling down and replacing the anchors first. Perhaps the FA team could advise as to what to expect and do. It seems likely that 95% or more of the bolts would simply need to be pulled and replaced, and if there are any question marks, they could be discussed and decided.

Ideally, there'd be two teams. Team A would rappel and restore (say) Karma, Team B would rappel and restore one of the other long, hard route on that side of Half Dome. They could then switch, and so have true on sight experiences.

It's not like Roger, Clint and friends are the only people who can replace bolts in the Valley.

scuffy b

climber

heading slowly NNW

Dec 22, 2011 - 10:32pm PT

Since the climb has only been done once, there's no question which bolts
should be replaced (from ASCA standpoint), because they're all original.

A Schultz

Boulder climber

Mar 1, 2012 - 12:33am PT

I love these pictures

nopantsben

climber

Feb 28, 2013 - 12:19pm PT

looks good . . .

dhayan

climber

los angeles, ca

Jun 7, 2013 - 03:24pm PT

BBST!!

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Jan 2, 2014 - 11:48pm PT

Bump for the stuff that's just around the corner.

Willoughby

Social climber

Truckee, CA

Feb 20, 2014 - 03:23am PT

Bump for the Tiger Belly pic on page two, plus the rest of it.

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Feb 20, 2014 - 04:12am PT

Regarding Anders comment, has anyone been up to check this thing out in the past 5 years? Were the anchors or bolts ever upgraded? It looks like such a fantastic route.

Like, wow. Right?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

Feb 20, 2014 - 05:44am PT

It's not the "old bolts" that are stopping people from doing the climb.
Roger and I have replaced "old bolts" on many routes, and still nobody is doing them. Example: Greasy But Groovy. It's hard, and slabs are not popular.
The problem is that there are so many other competing routes to do.
This climb has several disadvantages:

both hard free climbing and multiple aid sections (this discourages both free climbers and aid climbers)

long approach

summer heat

supposedly a risk of getting rope cut by the dike in a leader (or follower?) fall

Trusty Rusty

climber

Tahoe Area

Feb 20, 2014 - 07:23am PT

This route used to bully me like a playground punk. One half dreaded the inevitable peril it was being forced into while the other plotted in naive frenzy. As a micro stick-man pimping delicate ink lines, I had that topo wired from start to finish. It was down to a few minor details like real balls and a neanderthal to follow the traverse pitches . . . the latter was unfortunately coming together.
The stressed out fantasy ended when I decided to hiatus climbing in Yosemite for awhile. Though I haven't been back since 2006 following an utterly comical stab at Iron Hawk, I still greatly revere Karma with nervous reticence. Not something I'd place on a mantle, but you guys deserve the golden balls award.
Tremendous effort and achievement.
Abe

(And thanks for the revised and added pictures, awesome!)

RP3

Big Wall climber

Sonora

Feb 20, 2014 - 10:42am PT

What an amazing thread! Ken, your photos are inspirational. Thanks.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

Feb 20, 2014 - 12:28pm PT

Climbs like these are neat and there are some of us (but not many) trying to keep them alive, Clint and Roger,and Greg being the primary (and in most cases,only)preservationists. To add just a bit to what Clint says, it also seems like the FAist's want to see the replacement done ground up which also adds to the complexities that Clint mentioned and may be why Roger didn't replace. I have set ropes on old climbs for Roger and Clint on climbs that have harder access (i.e. diagonaling slabs hard to access from the top)like Karma by leading them on the old bolts, replacing the anchors, and then rapping to replace as above posters mentioned. And this is rare enough (and in my opinion a most ethical way so far) but to replace and re-drill on lead on site is a whole other world and is almost unheard of.

The FA team had to drill from sketchy stances but at least they were using 1/4"ers which are far easier to drill. Add having to pull bolts from those stances and then re-drill 3/8" by hand adds to the already daunting task outlined by Clint. The best way to replace Karma is as Clint says. Drop a long line from the top and replace. I would be happy to replace with Clint and Roger provided the FA team gives the go ahead because I highly doubt anyone wants to spend the time if Roger and Clint don't.

Greg Barnes

climber

Feb 20, 2014 - 01:28pm PT

Hah, that's funny - when I asked Bachar about replacing You Asked For It, he said "You gotta do it ground up!" Then a minute later, he said "Just kidding, just make sure to do a good job." In the end Drew wanted to do it, and so Bachar ended up getting what he wanted! Drew got the last 1/4" lead, and only the second lead with a bolt kit (this time with 3/8" bolts, tuning fork & removal gear)…then he delivered the original bolts to Bachar in Mammoth (and I think Bachar gave them to Dave at MMS?).

I've replaced plenty of bolts ground-up. Sometimes it's by far the easiest way, but it is also a good strategy to end up with new bolt holes instead of reusing the hole. Worked fine on Urioste routes in Red Rocks where every bolt needed a new hole (1/4" stud bolts which would snap no matter what), but it's super unfortunate when you end up drilling a new hole instead of reusing the old one.

HighDesertDJ

Trad climber

Feb 20, 2014 - 02:47pm PT

The low res pictures don't do justice to the high res ones. Holy crap I got physically scared looking at the high res pics.

wstmrnclmr

Trad climber

Bolinas, CA

Feb 20, 2014 - 03:01pm PT

Good stuff Greg. And as Clint points out, look how many are clamoring to get on climbs like "you asked for it" now that it's been rebolted. I'm willing to lug ropes up and replace the climb if you Clint and Roger are willing and the FA team ok's rap replacement, otherwise It won't get replaced. I don't care whether your Honnold or Joe gym climber, onsiting over an old aluminum hanged 1/4" spinner from 1970 looking at a 50 footer on 5.10 slab levels the playing field. Getting on 12 + and hanging on old crap in the aid section traversing? You'd be better off soloing it then taking the chance of body weighting that crap.