Karma done again!

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 123 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2010 - 10:58am PT
T H

It think this it. My first attempt with photos.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=213503&tn=0

Ken
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Apr 14, 2011 - 01:00am PT
Go back to the first post. Holy.....sh#t....!!!!! Dike-tacular!!!!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 10, 2011 - 02:29am PT
Cherish the impossible bump.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
May 10, 2011 - 03:03am PT
Thanks Ken, the high-rez thread (link) is still awesome. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=213503&tn=0
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
May 23, 2011 - 12:33pm PT
Bump
Pass the Chongo, Chongo

Social climber
love, trust, and T*Rs nuts!
May 23, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
Bump
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Dec 22, 2011 - 12:34pm PT
K-man and I had a discussion about this route last night. It seems like no one will go up there because of the questionable bolt situation. We thought you would at least need new belays to make it feasible. And somewhere on here Roger Brown stated that he wouldn't replace bolts there because he wouldn't know which ones to replace. It seems like to head up there to repeat this route you either need new anchors and some lead bolts or a will to just go for it.

We got to thinking when is Honnold gonna have a go at this solo. Seems pretty close to the ultimate climb, Karma 2nd ascent free solo. He wouldn't have to worry about bolt replacement at all.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Dec 22, 2011 - 04:14pm PT
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlEzvdlYRes&feature=player_embedded
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Dec 22, 2011 - 06:03pm PT
There's nothing to stop anyone who wants to repeat the route from rappelling down and replacing the anchors first. Perhaps the FA team could advise as to what to expect and do. It seems likely that 95% or more of the bolts would simply need to be pulled and replaced, and if there are any question marks, they could be discussed and decided.

Ideally, there'd be two teams. Team A would rappel and restore (say) Karma, Team B would rappel and restore one of the other long, hard route on that side of Half Dome. They could then switch, and so have true on sight experiences.

It's not like Roger, Clint and friends are the only people who can replace bolts in the Valley.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Dec 22, 2011 - 10:32pm PT
Since the climb has only been done once, there's no question which bolts
should be replaced (from ASCA standpoint), because they're all original.
A Schultz

Boulder climber
Mar 1, 2012 - 12:33am PT
I love these pictures
nopantsben

climber
Feb 28, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
looks good . . .
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
Jun 7, 2013 - 03:24pm PT
BBST!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jan 2, 2014 - 11:48pm PT
Bump for the stuff that's just around the corner.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Feb 20, 2014 - 03:23am PT
Bump for the Tiger Belly pic on page two, plus the rest of it.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Feb 20, 2014 - 04:12am PT
There's nothing to stop anyone who wants to repeat the route from rappelling down and replacing the anchors first. Perhaps the FA team could advise as to what to expect and do. It seems likely that 95% or more of the bolts would simply need to be pulled and replaced, and if there are any question marks, they could be discussed and decided.


Regarding Anders comment, has anyone been up to check this thing out in the past 5 years? Were the anchors or bolts ever upgraded? It looks like such a fantastic route.

Like, wow. Right?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 20, 2014 - 05:44am PT
It's not the "old bolts" that are stopping people from doing the climb.
Roger and I have replaced "old bolts" on many routes, and still nobody is doing them. Example: Greasy But Groovy. It's hard, and slabs are not popular.
The problem is that there are so many other competing routes to do.
This climb has several disadvantages:
 both hard free climbing and multiple aid sections (this discourages both free climbers and aid climbers)
 long approach
 summer heat
 supposedly a risk of getting rope cut by the dike in a leader (or follower?) fall
Trusty Rusty

climber
Tahoe Area
Feb 20, 2014 - 07:23am PT
This route used to bully me like a playground punk. One half dreaded the inevitable peril it was being forced into while the other plotted in naive frenzy. As a micro stick-man pimping delicate ink lines, I had that topo wired from start to finish. It was down to a few minor details like real balls and a neanderthal to follow the traverse pitches . . . the latter was unfortunately coming together.
The stressed out fantasy ended when I decided to hiatus climbing in Yosemite for awhile. Though I haven't been back since 2006 following an utterly comical stab at Iron Hawk, I still greatly revere Karma with nervous reticence. Not something I'd place on a mantle, but you guys deserve the golden balls award.
Tremendous effort and achievement.
Abe

(And thanks for the revised and added pictures, awesome!)
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Feb 20, 2014 - 10:42am PT
What an amazing thread! Ken, your photos are inspirational. Thanks.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
Feb 20, 2014 - 12:28pm PT
Climbs like these are neat and there are some of us (but not many) trying to keep them alive, Clint and Roger,and Greg being the primary (and in most cases,only)preservationists. To add just a bit to what Clint says, it also seems like the FAist's want to see the replacement done ground up which also adds to the complexities that Clint mentioned and may be why Roger didn't replace. I have set ropes on old climbs for Roger and Clint on climbs that have harder access (i.e. diagonaling slabs hard to access from the top)like Karma by leading them on the old bolts, replacing the anchors, and then rapping to replace as above posters mentioned. And this is rare enough (and in my opinion a most ethical way so far) but to replace and re-drill on lead on site is a whole other world and is almost unheard of.

The FA team had to drill from sketchy stances but at least they were using 1/4"ers which are far easier to drill. Add having to pull bolts from those stances and then re-drill 3/8" by hand adds to the already daunting task outlined by Clint. The best way to replace Karma is as Clint says. Drop a long line from the top and replace. I would be happy to replace with Clint and Roger provided the FA team gives the go ahead because I highly doubt anyone wants to spend the time if Roger and Clint don't.
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