Discussion Topic |
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 02:07am PT
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is this a tower or is it knott?
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 26, 2013 - 02:17am PT
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I duno. Can you walk up the other side? Looks pretty damn good. You sure find some high quality stuff out that way.
2nd crag, at center left below.
I really need to bring binoculars so I can get better shots.
This is the little crag I mentioned in Your Carson Valley Report thread. It's up off Kings Canyon.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Dec 26, 2013 - 02:34am PT
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hey there say, johnnyrig...
nice thread, hope more pics are added, too!
i really LIKE that one from thebravecowboy...
very nice shot, too...
and i really like that kings canyon crag!
thanks guys!
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 03:05am PT
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no you can knott walk up the back side. finish either chimney visible above and you must complete a beauteous doubly triply exposed navajo sandstone slab to the virgin summit.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 03:22am PT
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what do you mean?
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 03:35am PT
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oh, yeah, those things
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:41am PT
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See, now that's just cool. We don't get that kind of freestanding tower around here. Neither do I live in Tahoe, like Gumby. So I'm out 4x4ing through the desert, hunting chukar, elk, fishing and poking around the old mines and ghost towns.
If I can just learn how to climb this junk volcanic flakey biscuit crap, you guys might get a trip report out of me. And a few new top-rope-able routes in the 5.3-5.7 sorta range. 4x4 required ha ha ha.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 26, 2013 - 09:28am PT
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nice thread, hope more pics are added, too!--neebee
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 26, 2013 - 09:36am PT
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Speelyei choss fest from AZ. I could bury this thread. I like finding the mines and stuff almost as much as I like finding the rocks.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 26, 2013 - 09:41am PT
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More Mohave County obscurities:
Frankly, I'm afraid of this
top: where's waldo?
L: glass Jergen's bottle (solo on the high lonesome?)
C: todays goal
R: .41 cal rimfire, stamped H: Henry rimfire circa 1890
DOC Mine
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 26, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Rockhounding? Lots of that! Found a few rattlers, but left them alone. Old mines abound. Never can tell really what they were after at the random places, but there are some good references.
Mouse, have you climbed there? Looks like an incredible place.
Sometimes its hard to leave these places, but work is a necessity. So i take a picture or two and file it away in the category of places-to-go-back. Someday. Some go with the category of if-i-was-braver, like wanting to go underground.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:11am PT
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I'm right there with you, J-rig.
Lots of these spires, walls, and summits are best appreciated through binoculars. It wasn't that the past generations didn't find them, they knew better than to fool with them.
The old mines are such a cornucopia of danger, I tread lightly. I've walked back in a few, but mostly I just poke around the outside and look at the old buildings. There's so many ways to buy the farm around these f'ing things, it's not even funny.
What part of NV are you in?
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:22am PT
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Eye of the needle in Death Valley , specifically this formation is on the Echo Canyon trail ...
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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That looks like a giant arch!
Im in Carson city. I think mostly the potential for bad gas keeps me out of the mines, followed by cave-ins.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 26, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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Yea I guess that's why land managers put up giant gates like this to keep people from their own stupidity .
I still went in past this gate about 100 feet into this mine , but quickly turned around .
There are so many open mines and shafts out there though , impossible to bar them ... I love mines .
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 26, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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Not too long ago, some girls were killed while out riding quads with their family near here. An old shaft from the early 1900's had been partially covered by time and debris, and wasn't significant enough to be on any maps.
Periodically explosives of various makes and vintages will show up at the Sheriff's Office or Police Department. People will find det cord, blasting caps, sometimes old sweaty dynamite...
I have walked back a couple adits (horizontal tunnels), and one had a shaft in the floor that went way down. Most mines around here are big shafts that go down hundreds of feet. Some have been surrounded with wire, some barred over, a few are wide open.
May 7, 1910
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:31pm PT
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I have to admit , I always thought it would be cool to rappel into some deep and scary shaft .
So what is the danger ? Is it lack of circulating oxygen down in the shaft? Is it poisonous gasses down in there ? Then why weren't old time miners killed by being in there back in the day?
How safe are horizontal shafts to walk round in ?
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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John Shaft?
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 26, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
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Dapper Dan,
As far as the gasses go, the gasses that will kill you are heavier than air and accumulate over time. Mine ventilation systems were well established by the late 1800's/ early 1900's.
The mines as you see them now are abandoned. Who knows how much of the structural supports were removed along with anything the mining company wanted to salvage? A lot of the mines I see used to have rails, ore cars, pumps to draw water out etc. All that stuff is gone now. I've been to a couple where the mine entrance was blasted to seal it, but has since opened up again due to erosion.
Also, mining was a dangeous job back then. Plenty of miners were killed in the diggings.
Even if the shaft or tunnel was relatively safe when it was dug, that was 125 years ago in some cases. There has been plenty of freeze-thaw, water erosion, looky-loo's throwing stuff down, etc. over the years.
I have rapelled into a couple lava tubes in Oregon, where the ceiling collpased and created a sky light. We rigged up a tripod out of 4x4pt posts, it worked pretty good. I felt okay about it because I felt the natural processes that created it had done what they were gonna do, so to speak. These mines were dug out, man made, they've created a failure prone unnatural opening.
I've thought about rapping down in, too, but I think it would be really risky. Not enough reward for the risk.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Dec 26, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
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moosedrool, is that climbing wall on a cruise ship?
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 26, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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Thanks Speely , lots of good info there...
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
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pretty jealous, Speely and Jrig, of your weather. still, though, we shall see who is who once the season turneth....
be safe out there on yer solo ventures, fellows.
EDIT: Dapper Dong, errr, Dapper Dan, I have heard that most abandoned mine workings are legit for novice exploration so long as you only work the shaft.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Johnny Rig: you have to TR the shite that appears most impossible or it's knott worth it.
yes, you will clean huge plates of sh#t to the ground, yes you will come close to an undignified death by solo exsanguination, yes you will be alone in your finest moments......but, bring a dog, a camera, and zero ego but for desire and you will do good - nay, GREAT - sh#t.
mainly, once more, speaking to mineownself, but...you phukkers provide a decent sounding board: all that four wheeling is not for naught, if you put down the gun and do something unique (any drunk phuqqer can shoot a chukkar).
EDIT: ^ Jesus Moosedrool, needa getchyew out.....^
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
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Saline Valley salt trams , used to move mined salt over the Inyo Mtns. to the Owens valley I think...
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
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that is a most-intact structure, DD. I dig it. thanks for sharing.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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Hunting,s just something I do, like climbing, hiking, fishing, wheeling. I have a 16mo old now, and expecting the 2nd next month, sooo... I maybe relegated to playing arm-chair quarterback for awhile.
Love seing the good stuff posted up, and will try to concentrate on the climbing stuff.
The mines interest me, both for my own prospecting and rockhounding, and because my family mined a bit in Utah way back when. Like was said, they,re an unnatural hole in the ground which is trying to close itself. There are about 4 main gasses that cause ya issues, mostly undetectable til yer hosed. Check mojaveunderground.com and undergroundexplorers.com for some great pics.
Havent been on a cruise ship with a wall yet, and the road up to Little Valley is closed.
Tis the hunting season now, so I,m gona be out there after birds again. Maybe if I was drunk i,d hit more? lol But the rope is always in the truck, and I got a go-pro for Chrirtmas. All I need now is someone to hold my beer... and something unique to do...
Most of the rock I see is short. Single or double pitch at most. But I have seen some taller things, and I will be paying more attention now that I climb.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 26, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
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Seems like we got a lot in common, I love wheelin' and mines .
I have this built out 'Runner , this is in the Saline ...
This is in the Mojave .
Eureka Valley sand dune.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 27, 2013 - 12:08am PT
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Dan, I like your rig. It goes place mine would only dream of.
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 27, 2013 - 12:22am PT
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... off Red Rock Rd north of Reno ... You find the raddest cliffs etc. Keep it alive, cuz nobody else will.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 27, 2013 - 12:24am PT
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Ha! suuure. I find lots of short gravel piles that work well as noob training grounds. Mostly me.
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skamoto
Mountain climber
coalinga ca
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Dec 27, 2013 - 03:01am PT
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This is by far my favorite posting I've come across so far. I love obscure crags and I'm always on the look out for new ones. I also like the mining pics. Tfpu
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:16am PT
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 27, 2013 - 10:53am PT
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Ah yes, the 4runner. Ours carried us over many a slow and bumpy mile.
We have only recently parted ways.
I pine for her daily.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 27, 2013 - 11:30am PT
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Damm Speely that 'Runner looks Loaded Down ! I hope you at least had the 3 liter motor in there , my previous 3 liter Toyota Truck was about the slowest vehicle ever .
How any miles did you wring out of the motor before you let it go ?
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 27, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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That's the good ol' 22re in a stock '90.
We drove from Waldport Oregon all the way out to Rome,Paisley, Ontario, 3 forks on the Owyhee.
People would pass us in a fury the couple times we had to get on pavement. We could do 65 on the flats, but the $50 trailer chewed through bearings and the goal was to be on dirt anyway.
We finally drew a smiling waving cowboy with chalk on the back of the trailer and wrote "goin as fast as we can!"
Then people waved and laughed and passed us politely.
I bought the 4runner for $3250 with 160k miles on it. I sold it with 315k on it 2 years later. I tuned it up once, replaced an alternator, and changed the oil every 2000 miles.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Dec 27, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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You changed the oil 80 times in two years?
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 27, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
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I know a place in the Humboldt range with limestone, but it doesnt look like that. Will have to go take pics some day.
My dodge is nearing 315k. I change the oil at random, whenever it feels dirty and i have some cash.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 27, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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That's what I told the guy that bought it... :-)
Doesn't everybody change their oil "every two thousand miles"?
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 27, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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Nice Speely , keepin the oil companies in business.
My rig is also a 90' , rebuilt 22re regeared to 5.29's for my big tires and lift.
The 22re is no speed demon but it sure lasts , easy as pie to work on too...
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 27, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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There's some excellent quality limestone if you travel a bit. The continuous vertical distance of superb rock isn't, say, any more than Owens River Gorge, but the rock quality can be as good as limestone gets. Some great looking roofs and caves, pretty firm stuff with only a minimum of cleaning and trundling needed to make some really great pitches. A few facets should be avoided for raptor reasons (the falcons will rip you to shreds anyway, if you get too close). Check it out:
And it's scenic:
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Dec 27, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
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^cool!^
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dec 27, 2013 - 09:08pm PT
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 27, 2013 - 11:08pm PT
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How far of a travel is that mongrel?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 28, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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great thread. tfpu. will try and add some more later.
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RoryKuykendall
Mountain climber
Glacier National Park, then maybe Death Valley??
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Dec 28, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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justthemaid,
Is that in Death Valley? Near Titus Canyon maybe? Looks big.
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MisterE
climber
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Dec 28, 2013 - 01:17am PT
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justthemaid,
Is that in Death Valley? Near Titus Canyon maybe? Looks big.
Good call and partially correct - we're calling this one "Jailhouse Rock":
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Dec 28, 2013 - 01:41am PT
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Titus canyon is cool! So is Hole-in -the -Wall, where they put in that ring trail, down in Mohave
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 28, 2013 - 01:52am PT
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jonnyrig, those cliffs are in White Pine Co., about 25 miles east of Eureka, then south about 15 or 20 miles. So, pretty far out in the boonies. The ones in the photos are a mile or less walk from a dirt road. There are other crags of good limestone rock in Dixie Valley, and in the Monitor Range too, but some of those are a lot further to walk. It's adventure climbing for sure, although the best actual climbing potential would be for sport routes over the giant roofs. Way out of my league.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 28, 2013 - 01:56am PT
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... a little Titus Canyon shot
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 28, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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Wow. Some of this stuff is awesome. Thanks for sharing!
I've been into Dixie valley a little, but not much, and long before I started climbing. Hopefully, next year we'll be settling in with the kids and getting back out to camp and explore. Never been out there by Eureka, not yet.
Never been to Death Valley area either. Man, if I could just hit the lottery so I could keep the gas tank full...
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Dec 28, 2013 - 02:56am PT
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some other random
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RoryKuykendall
Mountain climber
Glacier National Park, then maybe Death Valley??
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Dec 28, 2013 - 02:57am PT
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On second thought, maybe it's in the western Panamints? Looks a lot like the rock when you first enter Goler Wash or Coyote Canyon. Really cool stuff.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dec 28, 2013 - 09:39am PT
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[photo
id=337587]
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dec 28, 2013 - 09:42am PT
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Dec 28, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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Good call and partially correct - we're calling this one "Jailhouse Rock":
Jailhouse rock is already the name of one of the best steep crags in Ca. Development dates back to the mid 80's.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dec 28, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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I'm almost positive I know where Just the maid's first photo is taken. And if I don't then I know another limestone wall in death valley that has several bolted routes and you can drive right up to it with a stock toyota truck.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 28, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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Christmas day chukar hunt. I'm learning how to use the GoPro, the video editing software, and Youtube. Bear with me. Don't watch if you don't want to see a dead bird. First of the season for me, so, um, I got a little excited. I also see that a chest mount could be much better.
I know, I know... put down the shotgun and do some climbing! Ok, I will. Meanwhile...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Dec 28, 2013 - 03:11pm PT
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You guys are killing me!
I love the high desert, but I'm living in NH.
Thanks for sharing slices of places you love, I love those places as well.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 29, 2013 - 03:29am PT
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Ok... 20 feet of choss, in the middle of nowhere. Laugh all ya want. Pretty sure it was a FA, and not likely to be repeated (who the hell would want to?). Could have been sooo much easier if I'd had a mattress instead of a rope...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Dec 29, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Some pics of the London Mine in CO , near Mosquito Pass...
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 29, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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Thankyou. I'm glad I didn't fall on them. That rock was ROTTEN. I had three nuts set as an anchor, and when I cleaned it the middle one cam out with a baseball size chunk of rock.
All this short stuff I get on is fun, but man... it's grounder potential every time. Some day, I'll get some longer routes on good rock.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 29, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
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Uranium prospect north of Reno at 39°54'47.04" N 119°55'41.05" W
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Dec 29, 2013 - 09:42pm PT
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@ Donutnational... nope... reasonable guess though.
That canyon is very difficult to access without 4WD and there's only one bolted route. We did a FA trad route to get to the (cactus studded) ledge to TR that thing. Hands down the weirdest rock I've ever climbed on. It's all razor sharp mega-choss BTW.
Edit @ Johnnyrig.. that choss video is classic. You should post it to the "Power of Choss Compels You" thread.. it's definitley worthy. ;)
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Dec 31, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
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These rocks are not terribly obscure... they're uphill from Washoe Boulders. Nobody seems to care about them though, so...
39°14'55.94" N 119°43'34.75" W
I picked a taller 30+ footer and led up on some sh&%ty pins and the silent partner.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Today I cleaned my pins and put two bolts on top. Pins might have held a fall, but Im glad i didnt test that. The bolts are two inch, 5/16 with a sleeve type that you gota drill a 3/8 hole.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Off Red Rock Rd, in Reno.
Last video I posted got flagged for copyright, so there's no music to this. And its shaky. You may not be impressed. But, it's better than gambling or arguing in the gun threads etc. Sped it up and cut it to about 5 minutes. Critique as you feel appropriate.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Oh yeah... up the hill for next time...
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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up the hill for next time...
looks real badass (limestone?) with the caves etc.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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I've hiked up to it once, guess it would maybe make 80 ft? Could be limestone, and fairly solid except the top. VERY loose at the top.
Going after it when I can head up for an early start, not just an hour before sundown like the video.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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There. Posted GPS coordinates from GoogleEarth for almost all the pics. Go do some 1st or 2nd ascents on some of this crap. I'm having a 2nd kid in two weeks, so it's gonna be awhile til I get out there.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jan 12, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
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Thanks TH.
Probably my last free weekend before the new kid arrives, so I drove two hours fully intending to climb this:
But between the biting cold wind, a bad attitude, and the rock quality putting me in mind of Ron's flakey biscuit escapades, I pussed out and explored some roads in four wheel drive instead.
I guess it's 80-100 feet. Crack system all the way up, oughta be fully protectable. However, rock's exfoliating on the surface, so the slabs aren't exactly what I'd call solid.
Directly below this is another little thing with a sizeable overhang, full of turds from chukar, coyote, and who knows what.
On the way there, you drive through the middle of an old Tungsten mine with several fenced tunnels and shafts, and a couple old foundations.
There are also two top-ropeable faces just past the mine. One has some bolt heads that I've not seen before, so as much as I'd like to think I'm getting out in the middle of nowhere, somebody's been here before. meh.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jan 13, 2014 - 12:53am PT
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nice prospecting! today i followed the masses and liked it for once. greased out desert holds beat the friable desert holds some days.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jan 13, 2014 - 01:01am PT
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I think you got me beat for actually climbing those portable holds. Maybe in about six months after the new baby is settling, and the better half recovers from a C-section and hernia, she'll let me get out again. I will SO totally go back to the same rock... and punk out 'cause by then it'll be too hot. ha ha ha
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jan 13, 2014 - 01:17am PT
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Yep. All volcanic. There's some stuff that simply won't hold together, then there's some stuff that looked kinda solid way up on the back of the ridgeline, but it would only yield 40-50 foot routes, maybe. There's a sort of crumbly tower a little further east that I've got my eye on that may hold a loose route or two, but I dunno.
This central slabby thing has a protectable crack right to the top, which looks to be pretty easy, and easily protected once you're 20 feet up or so. The bottom sucks, and part of my attitude today was a matter of not seeing anything suitable for a lead solo anchor down at ground level. The top 20-30 feet may end up being off-width a bit, but I also suck at judging crack width from a distance. There ain't no walk-off, going to have to rap or down climb.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 13, 2014 - 01:21am PT
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Funky bolt head! I've seen several allen head bolts, but I don't think I've seen a rounded allen head bolt before. Next time you're there unscrew it and see what kind of hardware store bolt it is...
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Jan 13, 2014 - 01:21am PT
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sometimes you just have to do what you have to do. nice work dude and it will be there when you are free again.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jan 13, 2014 - 03:28am PT
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weird the way that bolt is recessed into the rock it makes it hard to imagine a hanger ever being there or how it was used for climbing.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jan 13, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
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there are some rocks that never caught my eye before i was a climber. but now, every time i drive back from kirkwood my eyes are drawn to them. i tried to hike to them today from big meadow trailhead but only got to the outskirts.
here's one i stumbled across on the way there
the formation is the furthest of the ones i saw from 88, and the closest from 89
i climbed the right facing corner on the left in the pic. the start and lower portion of the climb is obscured by the white pyramid shaped boulder in the shadows.
climbing
about where i was in the pic i cloved the rope into a piece and climbed on absentmindedly. got up to a shelf where i could go no higher because of the clove hitch. my choice was to down climb back and move the piece up or untie and climb up easier parts hoping i could walk off. fortunately walking off was an option. then i climbed back up and retrieved the gear.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jan 15, 2014 - 01:31am PT
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Nice rock, gumby. Still up there on limited gear or did I miss something?
Looks like I'm getting one more free day before the kid arrives, so I'm thinking of heading back out to the little towerish thing in my last set of pics. Flakey biscuit loaf, I think I'll call it. I will either find a suitable anchor at the base or drill a couple bolts in. Unless I find a partner to go.
Any takers?
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jan 15, 2014 - 01:43am PT
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yeah i was putting in a piece there with a dynamic sling and then one clove hitched to the rope. that's when i sort of forgot what i was doing and climbed past where i could reach those pieces. i unclipped the sling from my harness which wasn't an issue since i had more. the bigger issue was not wanting to climb 10' back down to undue the clove hitch, so i untied the rope and kept going, making sure i didn't climb up anything i couldn't backtrack comfortably.
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ß Î Ř T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 15, 2014 - 02:36am PT
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Found this 30 foot face (and crack) right under the noses of everybody. There is nothing that tall in like a 7 mile radius. Posting a few photes at the risk of it being grid-bolted by morning.
Weird window/ brace holding it up from the back ...
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:54am PT
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It's now been almost a month since my son was born, and I finally have a little something to report. He's doing well, and his mother is too. She is now recovering from last weeks hernia surgery, which occurred from coughing during the pregnancy.
So, after many weeks of crying, colds, doctors office visits, stomach upsets, lack of sleep, and dirty clothes, I was going nuts. And then there's the kids! Clearly, the family needed a break from me.
One of my friends got conned into an obscure climb on a backcountry cow trail (where, incidentally, the cows would most likely resemble that dried out cow skull and horns in some desert cartoon), hours from nowhere, on a balmy winter Nevada day. I promised him sunshine and a FA on a south-facing, easy, two-pitch slab. One blown tire and a steady thirty mph wind chill not withstanding, the sun DID grace us with its presence. Promise fulfilled, we gave it a go.
Ten minutes of hiking had us at the base of the upper slab. The lower outcrop has some potential routes, but I'll leave those to the boulder monkeys who like to grid-bolt, or, you know... my next life-cycle as my friend might have said.
I led the first pitch on the flakey-biscuit-quality rock. It's easy climbing, relatively easy protection after a little feng-shui rock gardening of the crack along the way. The surface, while offering an endless variety of portable holds, also has a great crack system that runs bottom to top with enough adequate holds to propel even an untrainable goober like myself in a direction that resembles up. The hardest part seemed to be positioning one's feet in such a manner as to not rain down biscuit/pancake size shards of volcanic muck upon your windbitten lifeline handler below. Oddly, the comparison had me craving a second helping of waffles and syrup.
After anchoring in an alcove out of the wind just below the chimneyish pitch and starting the partner up, the wind changed direction and I was suddenly both ecstatic to be wearing an insulated plaid bubba shirt and distraught that I'd foolishly left the thermal leggings at home. My partner easily cleaned the pitch and dished me up a healthy admonishment that I'd not place enough gear for this middle-of-nowhere type of shenanigan, then did a brilliant job of both leading the chimneyish pitch, and sending the flapjack style rock flakes careening down the chute in front of me, instead of on top of me. Bravo sir! After a brief handshake and a presidential selfie on my first two-pitch (ok, so the 1st pitch was over half a rope, maybe 120 ft, and the second was probably under half a rope, so I guess technically some brave soul with a 70m could link up and make it a single pitch slabhappy thingy of it) FA, we elected to get out of the wind-tunnel-like vortex of not-so-warming breeziness and slung a large block with a baby angle backup (sharp edges) 70ish ft rap off the top side.
All together, it was fun day starting with waffle breakfast, two easy pitches of pancake-flakey biscuit crack, minor teeth-chattering wind-chill, and a blown out tire. Sure beats a dirty diaper. Which was the most immediate need-to-do when I walked in the door at home, followed by a Killians Irish Red and some warm soup.
Now, all that's left to do is:
Three slings and piton left on obscure rock just northeast of Lembert Dome. Free PBR to the good soul who's kind enough to return them to me!
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 18, 2014 - 01:29am PT
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JohnnyRig- brilliant trip report of what is undoubtedly the first ascent and probably the last ascent of the mighty Creelman Crag. Obscurity of obscurities and a damn good adventurous find.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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Thankyou. Im saving my first real TR for something a little more worthy of Taco standards.
Next up: something taller, and with video. Aka- hold my beer and watch this...
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:46am PT
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Great thread, keep em coming!
I still think this spot has some fun potential and it would be a good diversion driving north on the 14 on the way to Mammoth or Bishop.
Interesting rock here but access is by kayak.
I did a few routes on this wall a few summers ago but there is much more to do. It's up in the Whites.
This boulder is deep in the Sespe. Camped next to it on a raft trip a few years back.
Did a FA with Tom Woods on this dome a few years back, also in the Whites
I really think this peak has some potential and if you have a 4x4 you can almost drive to the base.
More White Mountain potential.
A horrible shot of the peak in the Inyos I posted above. Taken on a recon trip in 1986 or 1987.
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kennyt
Trad climber
Oregon
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Feb 18, 2014 - 11:54am PT
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Good thread!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 18, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
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The route done a few years ago. I went up with a non climber friend and felt bad about making him belay so I only ticked off the one route. There is a cool face to roof climb to the left that I really want to go back and try. MisterE??? you up for a little adventure this summer?
This is the Papoose Flat area down toward Marble Canyon. We did a route on the left side of the formation. Rap bolts on top.
Fun splitter hand crack right off the road in the Whites.
Another Papoose Flat climb. The route we did climbs the longest left to right crack system. Pretty chossy but could be good with more traffic.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 18, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
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In the late '90s we bootied a really old, freeze-thaw damaged hex from the second pitch of the biggest formation in that photo…people have been climbing there for a while!
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 18, 2014 - 06:09pm PT
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Greg,
I remember you telling me you did some stuff on that formation. I have not ventured down to that crag yet, maybe this summer. I am hoping to spend more time exploring that whole area. My family has been camping up there for years but I have only been climbing off and on up there for maybe 10. Great place to get away from the heat.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 18, 2014 - 10:22pm PT
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I was thinking a spring trip to Papoose this year, that's where split decision is or is it the cow camp?
There's not a lot of snow, but still more than you think in the canyons right now. It should be an early year for access if the winter keeps up the way it has.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 19, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
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Looks like I,m going exploring this weekend for a day. Looks like potential for as much as 1500 feet of slab. All that remote stuff you guys come up with has me drooling. Hoping for a FA worthy of posting an actual TR.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Feb 19, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
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I like the 5.3d and off the beaten path stuff. I doubt I'll ever do a big wall or 5.12, or climb in some foreign locale... Seeing other people traipsing for trash and adventuring at technical limits that are within the reach of "Joe Weekender" inspires me. I'd like to see more of that stuff.
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Feb 19, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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Maybert Boulder
Yuba/Bowman - Falcon Crest
North Fk American R
Maybert Cliff
Other Random. . . .
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 19, 2014 - 11:57pm PT
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Trusty Rusty:
You and I have been stepping in each others footprints.... Did you haul climbing gear all the way down there, American River, or just a camera? I've been trying to convince someone to go to both of those places with me for 25 years but nobody has been willing to pack climbing gear in there with me with all of the easy access stuff around...hiked in to the American River spot again this summer for a swim,(Keeping a look out for those that don't seem to want you down there ;) as well as the multitude of rattlesnakes in there)They both are on the radar for this summer...maybe...as I get older it keeps getting farther...
......btw...shhhh
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 20, 2014 - 12:27am PT
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I would throw some gear in a pack. Maybe one of these days it would be good to meet in person.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Feb 20, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
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le_bruce, awesome. Totally awesome.
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sangoma
Trad climber
south africa
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Feb 20, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
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OK this aint NV of CA but this is what we got down here, could spend a lifetime putting up routes on this virgin rock, and this is only one of the canyons (we call them "kloofs")we went up !!!
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Feb 20, 2014 - 06:55pm PT
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Excellent, Sangoma!
Today's top-rope first ascent (thanks MiniTraxion!)
About 135', start with 5.6 crack, through a notch, and the rest (that you can't see) is a really fun slab to the anchor.
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Feb 20, 2014 - 10:02pm PT
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great thread!
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Feb 20, 2014 - 10:58pm PT
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Adventurous One-
So it would seem. . . and are you the one removing hangars? :)
All but one of those pics are in one of the Yuba drainage's, which we've brush-oared into and climbed extensively. A lot of rugged stuff in there, totally worth the beating in my opinion, at least till the next morning.
The single American R shot was taken from across the canyon...NOT the approach. If you know this one you know its attainable from the North. Been to it a few times but everything we found was nauseously loose and vehicular. A good place to disappear if you get my drift.
Certainly potential there, we just got molested.
You climbed that sucker?
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Trusty Rusty
climber
Tahoe Area
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Feb 20, 2014 - 11:17pm PT
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Jingus mulch by swamp in Piedmont area:
Gold Country Bouldering
Cool Sierra County feature
Super Slide on lower S. Yuba. Someone actually climbed this crop.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 20, 2014 - 11:34pm PT
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Devils postpile, two pics up, up toward Downieville. That one is on the maps. Worth the short hike up to the nearby fire lookout too.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 21, 2014 - 12:33am PT
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Haven't brought a rope into either one of those places, just shoes for bouldering around and exploring easy stuff. The "ambiance" at the American River location is a bit creepy, was surprised to even see a photo from across the river. Not sure it warrants the slog back out with rope and gear. "Falcon Crest" location is a place that has intrigued me since my childhood, having grown up down the road in Nevada City. Without giving away the location, how do you approach it? When I was there we approached from upstream. Thought there must be a much easier approach from above? I would love to hear about the routes you have done there. Are there any free climbing options through the, very, impressive roof section? Pm me if you feel like sharing....
Edit: Johnnyrig-we'll have to meet some time...and swap stories/notes of local backcountry choss hunting adventures.....(and maybe some not so chossy local backcountry adventures ;) )
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:22am PT
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I feel like I should know where those areas are, but sadly choss hunting (climbing) is a new thing for me. Only been at it a couple years. Spent plenty of time between Auburn, Nevada City, and up to around Washington, down over toward Foresthill fishing and hunting deer as a kid with my grandfather, and have some interesting (maybe) stories from all that. Just never paid much attention to the rock. Never went prospecting either back then, in some of the richest ground around. Go figure.
I remember the first time I went fishing, down on Wolf Creek. Don't remember how old, but very young. Hiked down several miles from my grandparents house with my granddad, and proceeded to catch a limit of trout. Also hooked my pinky finger to the bone, but the fish made up for it.
Well, the sun went down and the flashlight died. It also started raining. As a cold, wet, lost (granddad was turned around in the dark and the rain too), scared, miserable little kid, I swore from that night forward I'd never get lost again. So far, I've only been lost once or twice since (once in downtown Oakland at 2am, but that's another story). Didn't make it back to the trailer until well after midnight. Boy was grandma worried, and then furious! Crazy old grandpa.
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Feb 21, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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Trusty-
When I was exploring that American River stuff, about 30 years ago, we boulder scrambled/swam upstream (an all day, sun burnt adventure as I recall) from the suspension bridge where we were camped.
Last summer we parked at the trail head, didn't want to take the risk with the gully crossing in the Subaru, and walked down the steep dirt road in search of those cliffs (with shoes but no ropes) until we came to the locked gate with all the no trespassing warnings. Ended up going back to the trail to the suspension bridge to access the river. (The person I was with was "scared" to hop the gate and wouldn't continue) An aggressive, custom built gate in a very remote location in a forested canyon (where the locked gate is)with lots of no trespassing warnings....hmmm...The growers and miners with mining claims can be unfriendly and aggressively protective down there..
Is there another way in?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 21, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
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nice le bruce….that canyon looks Long.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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More Nevada stuff from this weekend. Had invited a friend here, but things were just not right on the timing. Took a friend from Sacramento, but his foot bothered him. Also got a three hour late start for a three hour trip out to this location to investigate what might be nothing at all. Turns out there's a lot of rock, not all of which is climbable, but plenty that is. Definitely heading back out to this location in the future.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
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Very cool. Was wondering how the trip went this morning.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
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How big is it John and how long is the approach? Did you actually get to the base of any of the formations?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
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Colorado miscellaneous, Bear Creek.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 23, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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The mountain is pretty big, and depending on the rock I'd say there's a couple outcrops that might run 4-500 feet. Some of it was pretty solid, looks like a desert granite/gneiss, and some of it is pretty portable. I dragged my buddy with the lame foot over to some short stuff (not over maybe 150ft) that was close to where we parked, say 5min hike. The taller stuff higher on the mountain would be maybe a half hour uphill hike, but that's a guess. There's definitely potential there, but next time I'm bringing the bolt kit, cause there are some runout slab looking things.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Feb 23, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
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So John, can you get another hall pass for early march? The biggest slab thing looks good and I"m getting the bug for obscure new routing? Has our names written all over it. Got four new off road tires and two spares now
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 23, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
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It may be possible. But that will depend on logistics with the kids. The pics from our little climb were just a test- 100yds from camp, and my buddy in street shoes. He could hardly walk due to plantar fasciitis or something. Not even a whole pitch. But now i know there is climbable rock.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 28, 2014 - 02:30am PT
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Tell me about Alvin McLane.
Anyone read any of his books? In particular, I'd like a look at Silent Cordilleras, and A Bibliography of Nevada Caves. There's another one on Rock art I think I'd like to see as well.
...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 28, 2014 - 03:50am PT
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hey there say, johnnyrig...
wow, i love seeing this again! great bump...
and now:
great new stuff here...
say, i will soon have dial up (chappy is helping me) and--i WILL
BE ABLE to comment of picture soon!!!
saw a few here and i they are really this...
this was a really nice share...
thanks so much!
nothing like the crisp freshness of the greatoutdoors and ROCKS... :)
WELL--maybe trees, we MUST get trees in here too...
and a river or such, ;))
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Feb 28, 2014 - 11:10am PT
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Think I just found a link to the episodes of Wild Nevada he was on. Now to find time to watch them...
and thanks neebee. Glad to know I,ve contributed at least one good thread. Anxious to get back out to my latest discovery.
If I leave my initials and some beer money (say, maybe a tenspot?) on any pin or bolt i might determine necessary on some obscure backcountry choss pile FA, do you think that would be tacky, or just a justifiable sacrifice to the Rock Gods and the second ascent party? heh heh.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Its intended to show what else is out there, and was started more as a question of whether there really IS anything new, and obscure, and unexplored.
Apparently there is. You just have to work for it.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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random.
Feeling the urge to go prospecting and treasure hunting. Been watching too many episodes of Gold Rush i guess. And the article on the coins found in California...
Seems to be a powerful image.
Some things may not be impossible, but they may be out of our grasp.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Ron,
Christmas Tree Pass?
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Ron, that place looks Wild. I've taken a look at it a couple times.
Have you been out here:
We've got some obscure stuff here in the North Bay. Enough to keep us entertained.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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sangoma
Trad climber
south africa
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nice eye candy dudes ....
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Urizen
Ice climber
Berkeley, CA
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johnnyrig,
How was the water temperature in those tanks? Last time I was in that particular spot a couple of years ago it was more like a "warm" spring.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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There were no cows this time. but my pal wouldnt get in. Smelled too much like ass he said. In retrospect, i should have dove in and had a couple beers just so he,d have to smell it all the way home.
I,d guess near 100 degrees.
I also have every intention of going back out there soon. Though with recent rains the road is likely impassable mud. Definitely heading back out to some of the places in these pictures, if I can convince the mother of my young children to give me a hall pass, and drag along friends like rick, climbski, or ron to let me lead a pitch or three.
All those places look awesome!
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:40am PT
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something in the california backcountry, not far off 80.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Mar 14, 2014 - 03:09am PT
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only an hours walk
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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Jun 13, 2014 - 05:39pm PT
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Yo, Carson City area dudes...
Anyone climb on this, up above Centennial Park on the east side of town?
It looks doable, some loose, a chimney, some face climbing, and probably 50ft of fun.
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jonnyrig
climber
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Aug 11, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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