anybody climb this

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i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 26, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
it's lake tahoe, so i'm assuming it has been climbed, but i couldn't see any evidence of it
skunk spire near skunk harbor, lake tahoe
skunk spire near skunk harbor, lake tahoe
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

we did
jasmyn on skunk spire
jasmyn on skunk spire
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

skylyn reaching the anchor
skylyn reaching the anchor
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

me at the 5.7ish crux
me at the 5.7ish crux
Credit: i'm gumby dammit

rest of the pics are up here
http://www.powdork.com/2013/waiting-for-winter-at-skunk-spire/
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Nov 26, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Did you name it 'Tale of the Skunk'?


Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
U.N. Ambassador, Crackistan
Nov 26, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Nice.

DMT
moosedrool

climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
Nov 26, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
You've been busy, gumby! Very cool!

Check your email, please.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 26, 2013 - 05:23pm PT
Looks like fun.

A single locking 'biner at your TR master point?

OK...as you like it.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
from Climbing Anchors by John Long and Bob Gaines pg 169
credit-Bob Gaines/John Long
credit-Bob Gaines/John Long
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 05:40pm PT
moosedrool I got nothing yet.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 06:29pm PT
Niiiiccce!!!! I'm jealous that you got to do something over 30 feet long. THat equalette set up is pretty sweet isn't it. I'm liking it myself...and I think it's pretty quick to rig (speaking from a slowpokes point of view that is). Just have to remember to rig the clove hitches right relative the spine of the carabiner.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 26, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Looks fine. Will you die? Probably not. (Obviously not.)

There's lots more movement at a TR master point, though...my personal preference is for two 'biners there.

Others will disagree. That's fine.

Beautiful location.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Nov 26, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
SWEET!
TFPU
Tad
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 07:04pm PT
There's lots more movement at a TR master point, though...my personal preference is for two 'biners there.
I prefer two also, but couldn't find another (they were hiding amongst all the cams). For some reason, whenever I think of using one locker and one regular crab I feel like mixing them would be bad. No idea why I feel that way.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 26, 2013 - 07:25pm PT
I think that picture is simply illustrating a specific method of creating an equalized anchor- not specifically a TR anchor.

Rope moving through that master point has greater potential to move that 'biner around, perhaps into a position that wasn't intended, or open a gate. (The way you've got it positioned, though, is pretty good- free hanging, less likely to push against the rock.) For the purposes of easy rope movement, I generally prefer two of the same type of 'biner at a TR master point- preferably not a 'D', because they tend to pinch the rope (creating drag) when opposed. Ovals work nicely there- rope moves smoothly through them.

Again, others will probably have differing opinions. My opinion comes from institutional applications (teaching climbing for groups), where TR's get lots and lots of mileage.

Apologies for any thread drifting...

Edit: As mentioned below, 3 oval 'biners at the TR master point makes for smoother rope movement (not a safety thing)- wider radius in the rope's bend. It's the kind of subtle benefit that becomes apparent after running TR's all day long....
adam d

climber
CA
Nov 26, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
New tr crags are fun. Fun, low commitment exploration. If you didn't have to clean it, safe bet others have done so already.

I'm into 3 ovals for tr master points. Also, bombproof trumps self-equalizing for tr anchors too...shouldn't be a whole lot of different directions of pull on a top rope. I love magic x's in multipitch anchors but hardly use 'em in top ropes.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2013 - 08:50pm PT
New tr crags are fun. Fun, low commitment exploration. If you didn't have to clean it, safe bet others have done so already.

I'm into 3 ovals for tr master points. Also, bombproof trumps self-equalizing for tr anchors too...shouldn't be a whole lot of different directions of pull on a top rope. I love magic x's in multipitch anchors but hardly use 'em in top ropes.
Couple of points.
1st- It was filthy. Definitely needs cleaning and lots of large loose stuff everywhere. Also no evidence of anyone making a small flat spot for a belay stance.
2nd- When building the anchor I was reasonably sure I'd be belaying from somewhere up there. Only after tossing the ropes did we find out both ends barely reached.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Nov 27, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
Apogee, I appreciate the drift/discussion. From my perspective, it's good to here other peoples perspective along with reasoning for doing. If you look, there are some real gems buried in this site.... and I too use 3 ovals for TR'ing, a'la Bob Gaines.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
same here apogee,
even if i don't follow every bit of advice given it doesn't mean i don't appreciate it as i am the new guy here. i should probably post that pic and the pics of the rest of the anchor over in the 'supertopo be my mentor' thread
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2013 - 03:34am PT
went back out today just to poke around and would have to say it is mostly a choss pile with great views.
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
have some more pics on my camera but it's out in the car and i'm cozy inside.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Dec 1, 2013 - 05:31am PT
I bouldered a high ball-ish hand crack on the way to Chimney Beach that was flaky as hell, no evidence of cleaning but, given the high visibility, most likely climbed. I think the rock is just weathered granite that doesn't get climbed often. Grab the fa credit, I guess?
Hand Crack on the way down to Chimney Beach.
Hand Crack on the way down to Chimney Beach.
Credit: Jebus H Bomz
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 1, 2013 - 10:39am PT
I always post one of the help to watch master points.

I'm surprised at your cheapiosity, guys, but I applaud your safety concerns, really--I do!

Seriously.

but

I remember when I used my ONLY biners on the pro, one at a time, like,

"It vass good enough for Preuss, but dot sort of ting vill kill me, so I had better get a yob."

When I was a gumby...

"Feckit! Let's just go and do it."
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