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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Clint your over lay of Ribbon Candy looks right to me. The Arch is the 11d or 11c pitch, whatever it is rated.
Who ever asked. Yeah the 11a groove pitch is run out and I do not think offsets would help. Unless you have a #4.5/#5 Camalot offset. You can get gear right above the belay but then there is a crux and if you fall the belay is right below you. Then good gear, then nothing, then the groove and I would not want to fall on anything placed in that, then the LowBall which was good and I think I backed it up with a non perfect HB, then not much till after the POD. I keep thinking I did not get another real good piece until the second POD with the bush growing out of it. That bush sucked.
Here's to sweat in your eye.
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Nice! Great stories. How about some more!
 Luke
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Give us the dope of Ecstasy of Gold.
Also, anyone who has climbed anything in this incredible spot - give us TRs!
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David Wilson
climber
CA
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Jan 26, 2014 - 10:13am PT
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Bump for more Ribbon tales !
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Feb 10, 2014 - 02:37pm PT
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I did Ribbon Candy with Chan Harrell back in the mid-90s. Really great, full value route. The 11c hand crack is stellar. The next 5.11 pitch is a bottoming crack that's difficult to protect. I think we used everything from RPs to a 5" cam on that pitch.
Greg
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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Thanks for the FFA story!
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Feb 14, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
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Nice thread and some great Picts
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 14, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
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I believe that ribbon candy is the ffa of stardrive?
I asked steve where it went, he could not confirm.
Cool history
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Feb 14, 2014 - 08:42pm PT
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Just wanted to say what an amazing place.
I am not a climber, but I like to hike your approach "trails". Any info on the approach that is tricky or dicey is not necessarily needed, but would be appreciated. Either way I will find out soon on my next trip :)
Thanks for the pictures!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 15, 2014 - 08:41pm PT
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Sick tale Coz! Thanks!!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
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Ribbon Candy
I remember doing that but had to bail before the last pitch.
Me and Merry left camp way too late and didn't want to get caught in the dark.
I thought it was really good climbing ....
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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Nope
The climbing was way more sustained then I thought it was going to be thus we got slowed down ....
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
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Yeah ...
Just see ...
What a stupid way to climb .... :-)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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I only been to the base as a tourist, but looking at that nut again photo:
When the falls is dry, any direct line up through the watercourse would seem to be a great route.
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cotuclimber
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Go to the bigwalls site, I believe there is a line going up the area of the waterfall. Maybe more than one.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!