Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
|
Does anybody know of any climb anywhere with as many pitches of this difficulty?
The rating of 14d for the toughest pitch is certainly something of a sandbag as I'm certain that other 5.15 climbers would have a harder time sending it than nearly any 5.15. This might not be the most strenuous climb on the planet but I wager it requires the most technical skill than any climb on the planet
Peace
karl
|
|
drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
|
Progress has been made but the route hasn't been freed yet.
From the link above.
As of now, two pitches on the Dawn Wall still haven’t been freed. Pitch 14: the first traversing pitch. “It’s still giving us a bit of trouble,” Tommy said.
And Pitch 16: the infamous Sideways Dyno Pitch.
Amazing nonetheless in difficulty, perseverance, location...everything!
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
|
Karl,
> Does anybody know of any climb anywhere with as many pitches of this difficulty?
The current free route on El Cap with the most pitches over 5.12 is:
Magic Mushroom - 5.13d/5.14a (31p: 9 5.12, 10 5.13, 1 5.13d/5.14a)
FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Justen Sjong, 5/08
10 5.13 pitches is pretty stout.
The Dawn Wall has more 5.14 pitches.
|
|
Klimmer
Mountain climber
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
|
So when he climbs it in one push, he's gonna have to then jump with a flying squirrel suit to celebrate at the end, and then spot land it on a LEO's head. Lol.
Total State of The Art
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
|
Holy crap
|
|
nah000
climber
canuckistan
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
|
to put this in perspective, if the grades hold, given that there are 1 X 5.14+, 3 X 5.14, 2 X 5.14-, 4 X 5.13+, 4 X 5.13 and 1 X 5.13- pitches, there aren't very many north american crags with as many pitches of hard climbing as this one route will have.
while, i'll bet there are others, off the top of my head all i'm coming up with are smith, rumney, rifle and maybe the red river gorge and wild iris...
if this gets completed it won't just be state of the art, it will be one of those a small step for [a] man, a giant leap for mankind type climbs...
pretty cool to see tc and co chasing this audacious of a vision in such a public arena.
|
|
go-B
climber
Hebrews 1:3
|
|
|
Dec 24, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
|
It's a Dawn of a new day!
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 11:23am PT
|
giant leap for mankind type climbs
This does nothing for mankind.
Most of mankind in this age is suffering incredibly .......
|
|
Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
|
What happened with Sharma? He didn't send?
|
|
chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
|
Most of mankind in this age is suffering incredibly ....... Compared to what, that golden time that was the Middle Ages?
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
|
In the grand scope of things we are living in one of the most peaceful periods in civilization.
|
|
Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
|
Does anybody know of any climb anywhere with as many pitches of this difficulty?
Does your definition of difficulty include hazard to the climbers? There are definitely climbs out there where if you spent this long hanging out and working them you'd be dead.
This one has a similar set of crux pitches, 14b, 14a, 13d, 14c
I think Ondra onsighted it a few years later though
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-madagascar-super-route
|
|
nah000
climber
canuckistan
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
|
oh smoking duck, ye ole hard ass... haha.
sure there's some hyperbole in my statement... but there's some in yours as well.
everyone can use a little inspiration and it's cool to see members of our species continue to apparently push the envelope of what we are aware to be possible. while these small breakthroughs may only provide small reminders of the mystery we live in and therefore only short term respite for a few, they aren't without their benefit for some of mankind.
ie. is a climb like this a giant leap for mankind?
fair enough: not really.
otoh, does it do nothing for mankind?
bullshIt.
|
|
Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
|
The idea of a free route on the Dawn Wall is mind boggling and indicative of how far standards have advanced in the forty years since Harding and Caldwell first nailed and drilled their way up one of the coolest parts of El Cap.
It sounds like they're close but not quite and therefore the title of this thread is misleading.
Odds are, it will probably happen in the not too distant future.
I'd venture that while this achievement may be a giant leap for Yosemite climbing it does little or nothing to better the current plight of our species.
I'd go further to suggest that things have never been more dire and that if we're not troubled or appalled, we're not paying attention.
In this greater context, climbing is irrelevant and at best a distraction.
Looking forward to news of the first free ascent of The Dawn.
|
|
coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
|
How many new holes? Any "enchanting" going on with a chisel? I like the idea of freeing big walls, I just wish the free climbers wouldn't force the line by adding bolts at cruxes, putting belays in the middle of pitches, or by using a "magic wand" to "enchant" holds. A great example is the Dihedral Wall. Stanley freed, I believe, it was the first 5 pitches, as it stood. He abandoned the project because he wasn't going to be able to do it as it was. Some time later, another free climber came and added a some bolts to those same pitches, and some above... to the top. Yes, they did "free climb" the route; but at what cost? The route will never be the same... for any body. Like I said, I am all for free climbing up there, but in good style.
So, if the Dawn Wall went free, with the existing gear... good job! That is a sick route I am sure. If the Dawn Wall went free, with a bunch of new bolts and holds, boo. What a butcher job. A little humility would do the FFA team, and every one else some good if the latter was the case.
I know a bunch of haters will respond to me, saying I will never climb that hard, or I don't know what I am saying. Well, to them I say this; I do know what I am talking about (just ask anyone who knows me). I also know I am a relic of a climbing day gone by, I accept that, and the new "rules" of climbing, or lack there of. In the end.... who cares!? El Cap will outlast all the spray, routes... us.
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
|
How many new holes? Any "enchanting" going on with a chisel? I like the idea of freeing big walls, I just wish the free climbers wouldn't force the line by adding bolts at cruxes, putting belays in the middle of pitches, or by using a "magic wand" to "enchant" holds.
Oh for the love of god, you are saying it is not ok to add bolts on the same wall where from the beginning of time people put in BOLT LADDERS, bashed in pitons (which is still ok today!), and enhanced edges for hook? Give me a break! If a dude is placing 2 extra bolts to protect a spot where he will free climb vs bash in pitons, get off his nuts. Of course I do not think enhancing holds is ok. But splitting a long sustained 5.14+ pitch in two 5.14 pitches does not sound that unheard of. Or does it offend purist aid climbing ethics? As we know aid climbers do not place bolts and never nail the sh#t out of cracks, right?
We all set our own battles. If "Stanley" did not want to continue up the wall because he knew he could not free it while obeying ethics he wanted to follow, full respect to him for not doing so. But it is not a reason for anyone else to follow his ethics, especially if they did not know those same pitches were freed without addition of bolts.
|
|
skywalker
climber
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
|
Coiler,
Go fix it...
To Tommy and Jason have fun!
S...
|
|
nopantsben
climber
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
|
coiler, i find it lame to hint that you have reason to believe they alter the rock to create holds when really you provide no proof whatsoever. it's still calling them out for no given reason...
|
|
fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
|
|
|
Dec 30, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
|
Enchant?
You sure that's what you meant to say?
Enchanted holds...better rack your magic wand and some eye of newt lol
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!