Discussion Topic |
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Dec 18, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
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Sick!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 18, 2013 - 05:45pm PT
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Looking forward to seeing the push. its going to be sik!
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Dec 18, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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Well, that's excellent. Dudes been working it for long enough. Hope he gets the send this year. It'd be a good Christmas present to himself.
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Norton
Social climber
the Wastelands
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Dec 18, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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What would Batso say?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
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Reading about and watching those two climb on the Dawn Wall makes me feel like I do watching Tiger Woods play golf. They all engage in the same sports I do, but they're playing a different game.
John
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 18, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
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What would Batso say?
Congratulations. Here, have some wine....
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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I guess my title is wrong, but I cannot change it. Well that's all the more reason for them to send.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Dec 18, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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I thought Tommy's ex-wife climbed a 14d in the Valley. We might have to get the lawyers involved.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Dec 18, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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12b
13a
13d
12b
12d
13c
14a
13d
13b
14a
13c
5.14
5.14
5.14
5.14d
13c
13d
13d
12 to the top . . .
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
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That is so radical. So who's going for the onsite?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 18, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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8th grade kids will be walking up it in a few years if history is any guide Studly.
How long did the FFA take?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 18, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
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6 pitches of 5.14 and 4 of 13d!! Is there are route of such difficultly anywhere in the world?
Congrats
Baba
Note; Route hasn't been done in a push yet. that will be no picnic
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
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Would this double the # of 5.14s in Yosemite?
What are the existing 5.14s?
Meltdown
Magic Line
Dihedral Wall (1 pitch?)
Nose (change corners pitch)
Magic Mushroom (1 pitch)
What else?
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose and south lake tahoe, ca
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Dec 18, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
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crazy
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Brian
climber
California
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
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Awesome!
I heard through the grapevine that Kevin had freed all but three pitches and Tommy all but two pitches. Does this mean that now Tommy has freed all but one of the pitches?
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:52pm PT
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Isn't it just one pitch of the 3 they haven't yet red pointed? Facts are lacking with such hype around 1 pitch.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:11pm PT
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Absolutely fantastic! Well done Tommy.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
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The article mentions that the belay may have been moved below the big dyno. Was to break the pitch up. Putting a dicey dyno at start of a pitch would be easier from a freeclimbing point of view. Imagine if that huge dyno at the end of a long 14.d....woah would suck to lower and relead...but success would taste phenomenal.
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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Dec 18, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Unreal...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
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So wonderful.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Dec 18, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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The article mentions that the belay may have been moved below the big dyno.
yeah, that caught my eye. once again, todd was a pioneer. it'll give completists something to whine about if the team does actually manage a team redpoint.
i think this is the most interested i've ever been in a major siege project. the good climbing on those steep slabs just looks so amazing. real stress, having those long, leads where the tiniest little shift in humidity or temp or wind or concentration just ends everything.
the good rock up there just looks phenomenal. and amazing that tommy could be back up and climbing that well again after that injury. those rib deals are unreal painful.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Dec 19, 2013 - 12:42am PT
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Warren's swilling wine to that!!!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Dec 19, 2013 - 06:38am PT
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a proud effort, what like 5 years?
congratulations men.
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J Wells
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Dec 19, 2013 - 09:45am PT
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Waaaahhhooooooo!!!!
Amazing!
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Trad Larry
Gym climber
Black Canyon, Colorado
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Dec 19, 2013 - 09:52am PT
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you guys understand that there are still two pitches that haven't been freed yet, right? the news was just about one of the three remaining unclimbed pitches going down.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Dec 19, 2013 - 10:18am PT
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good job guys, but STILL not as hard as 5.10 in Gunks
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happiegrrrl
Trad climber
www.climbaddictdesigns.com
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Dec 19, 2013 - 10:19am PT
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Tommy's on Team Wheaties.... http://www.wheaties.com/?post_type=profile&p=260
I wold like a Tommy Caldwell team Wheaties t-shirt. Wonder if they make them.
Is this an historic first as well(climber sponsored by Wheaties)?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 19, 2013 - 10:56am PT
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I don't think Batso would get this at all.
Baby, I'm amazed at the progress of this crazy avocation in my own lifetime.
HARDING TO CALDWELL: WATCH OUR SMOKE NOW!
A tiny blue dot with a GREAT BIG CLIFF
What is Tom doing: removing the if
The smallest conjunction for the biggest lead
Joins Harding to Caldwell with seventies seeds
Then to now is a very straight line
Many have tried but now it's mine
Sez Tommy to Warren trading gibes
I see we come from different tribes
But see it's just guys seeking recreation
And we're both men of imagination
If you were here with us today
I'd ask you up for to me belay
Warren you're a wizard at fixing pitches
But sounds like you have major bitches
So let's talk style and have some brandy
To celebrate that you're still randy
To climb and sing and fart and farce
To let you know you're in our hearts
Till the dang thing crumbles to choss.
"Warren, you have to press send."
"O.K. I got it. You're on belay."
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Brian
climber
California
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Dec 19, 2013 - 11:01am PT
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you guys understand that there are still two pitches that haven't been freed yet, right? the news was just about one of the three remaining unclimbed pitches going down.
Reading above I think most folks got that. But, as I wondered above...
I heard through the grapevine that Kevin had freed all but three pitches and Tommy all but two pitches. Does this mean that now Tommy has freed all but one of the pitches?
...does this mean there are two pitches that have not been freed, or one pitch that has not been freed? I realize that moving the belay mentioned above might complicate a clear answer for that.
I agree with klk that I generally don't really think too much about the shenanigans of other folks' projects, but for some reason I've become interested in this one. Dunno why.
Pretty sure they are now on their way down for the season...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 19, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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TENACITY times unparalleled talent equals success.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Dec 19, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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Looking forward to the film.
Tommy showed a few clips at a fundraiser in Estes Park a couple of years ago and the action was mind melting.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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the news was just about one of the three remaining unclimbed pitches going down. yeah back on the first page i profusely apologized for the unfortunate title, but i can't change it. and soon enough, it will be true
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 19, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
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The climbing is very unique for the grade. Unlikely you'll see many of the current 5.15 climbers lining up to get on it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Dec 19, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
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It's unbelievable.....
The FA of the Dawn was an event that caught my attention before I ever went rockclimbing. It was one of the reasons why I started climbing.
To sit here and think about FREE CLIMBING all of that....
is just unbelievable!!!!
Hats off to you boys, you have raised the bar ....by a huge amount.
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा
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Dec 19, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
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The climbing is very unique for the grade. Unlikely you'll see many of the current 5.15 climbers lining up to get on it.
That is what the movie showed.
Crazy stuff beyond eight foot sideways dynos, like smearing on some nubbin at eye level like a heel hook but it's a smear then mantling up off some edges until he's balancing on one foot to iron cross to another dyno.
Wild moves to link all that stuff together.
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Dec 19, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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Will it go all in a push, pure and clean? It's like El Cap has been turned into a boulder problem.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Dec 24, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
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Does anybody know of any climb anywhere with as many pitches of this difficulty?
The rating of 14d for the toughest pitch is certainly something of a sandbag as I'm certain that other 5.15 climbers would have a harder time sending it than nearly any 5.15. This might not be the most strenuous climb on the planet but I wager it requires the most technical skill than any climb on the planet
Peace
karl
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Dec 24, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
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Progress has been made but the route hasn't been freed yet.
From the link above.
As of now, two pitches on the Dawn Wall still haven’t been freed. Pitch 14: the first traversing pitch. “It’s still giving us a bit of trouble,” Tommy said.
And Pitch 16: the infamous Sideways Dyno Pitch.
Amazing nonetheless in difficulty, perseverance, location...everything!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 24, 2013 - 02:49pm PT
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Karl,
> Does anybody know of any climb anywhere with as many pitches of this difficulty?
The current free route on El Cap with the most pitches over 5.12 is:
Magic Mushroom - 5.13d/5.14a (31p: 9 5.12, 10 5.13, 1 5.13d/5.14a)
FFA - Tommy Caldwell, Justen Sjong, 5/08
10 5.13 pitches is pretty stout.
The Dawn Wall has more 5.14 pitches.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
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Dec 24, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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So when he climbs it in one push, he's gonna have to then jump with a flying squirrel suit to celebrate at the end, and then spot land it on a LEO's head. Lol.
Total State of The Art
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Dec 24, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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Holy crap
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Dec 24, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
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to put this in perspective, if the grades hold, given that there are 1 X 5.14+, 3 X 5.14, 2 X 5.14-, 4 X 5.13+, 4 X 5.13 and 1 X 5.13- pitches, there aren't very many north american crags with as many pitches of hard climbing as this one route will have.
while, i'll bet there are others, off the top of my head all i'm coming up with are smith, rumney, rifle and maybe the red river gorge and wild iris...
if this gets completed it won't just be state of the art, it will be one of those a small step for [a] man, a giant leap for mankind type climbs...
pretty cool to see tc and co chasing this audacious of a vision in such a public arena.
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go-B
climber
Hebrews 1:3
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Dec 24, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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It's a Dawn of a new day!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 30, 2013 - 11:23am PT
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giant leap for mankind type climbs
This does nothing for mankind.
Most of mankind in this age is suffering incredibly .......
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Dec 30, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
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What happened with Sharma? He didn't send?
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Dec 30, 2013 - 12:30pm PT
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Most of mankind in this age is suffering incredibly ....... Compared to what, that golden time that was the Middle Ages?
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Dec 30, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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In the grand scope of things we are living in one of the most peaceful periods in civilization.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 30, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Does anybody know of any climb anywhere with as many pitches of this difficulty?
Does your definition of difficulty include hazard to the climbers? There are definitely climbs out there where if you spent this long hanging out and working them you'd be dead.
This one has a similar set of crux pitches, 14b, 14a, 13d, 14c
I think Ondra onsighted it a few years later though
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-madagascar-super-route
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nah000
climber
canuckistan
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Dec 30, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
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oh smoking duck, ye ole hard ass... haha.
sure there's some hyperbole in my statement... but there's some in yours as well.
everyone can use a little inspiration and it's cool to see members of our species continue to apparently push the envelope of what we are aware to be possible. while these small breakthroughs may only provide small reminders of the mystery we live in and therefore only short term respite for a few, they aren't without their benefit for some of mankind.
ie. is a climb like this a giant leap for mankind?
fair enough: not really.
otoh, does it do nothing for mankind?
bullshIt.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 30, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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The idea of a free route on the Dawn Wall is mind boggling and indicative of how far standards have advanced in the forty years since Harding and Caldwell first nailed and drilled their way up one of the coolest parts of El Cap.
It sounds like they're close but not quite and therefore the title of this thread is misleading.
Odds are, it will probably happen in the not too distant future.
I'd venture that while this achievement may be a giant leap for Yosemite climbing it does little or nothing to better the current plight of our species.
I'd go further to suggest that things have never been more dire and that if we're not troubled or appalled, we're not paying attention.
In this greater context, climbing is irrelevant and at best a distraction.
Looking forward to news of the first free ascent of The Dawn.
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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Dec 30, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
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How many new holes? Any "enchanting" going on with a chisel? I like the idea of freeing big walls, I just wish the free climbers wouldn't force the line by adding bolts at cruxes, putting belays in the middle of pitches, or by using a "magic wand" to "enchant" holds. A great example is the Dihedral Wall. Stanley freed, I believe, it was the first 5 pitches, as it stood. He abandoned the project because he wasn't going to be able to do it as it was. Some time later, another free climber came and added a some bolts to those same pitches, and some above... to the top. Yes, they did "free climb" the route; but at what cost? The route will never be the same... for any body. Like I said, I am all for free climbing up there, but in good style.
So, if the Dawn Wall went free, with the existing gear... good job! That is a sick route I am sure. If the Dawn Wall went free, with a bunch of new bolts and holds, boo. What a butcher job. A little humility would do the FFA team, and every one else some good if the latter was the case.
I know a bunch of haters will respond to me, saying I will never climb that hard, or I don't know what I am saying. Well, to them I say this; I do know what I am talking about (just ask anyone who knows me). I also know I am a relic of a climbing day gone by, I accept that, and the new "rules" of climbing, or lack there of. In the end.... who cares!? El Cap will outlast all the spray, routes... us.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Dec 30, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
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How many new holes? Any "enchanting" going on with a chisel? I like the idea of freeing big walls, I just wish the free climbers wouldn't force the line by adding bolts at cruxes, putting belays in the middle of pitches, or by using a "magic wand" to "enchant" holds.
Oh for the love of god, you are saying it is not ok to add bolts on the same wall where from the beginning of time people put in BOLT LADDERS, bashed in pitons (which is still ok today!), and enhanced edges for hook? Give me a break! If a dude is placing 2 extra bolts to protect a spot where he will free climb vs bash in pitons, get off his nuts. Of course I do not think enhancing holds is ok. But splitting a long sustained 5.14+ pitch in two 5.14 pitches does not sound that unheard of. Or does it offend purist aid climbing ethics? As we know aid climbers do not place bolts and never nail the sh#t out of cracks, right?
We all set our own battles. If "Stanley" did not want to continue up the wall because he knew he could not free it while obeying ethics he wanted to follow, full respect to him for not doing so. But it is not a reason for anyone else to follow his ethics, especially if they did not know those same pitches were freed without addition of bolts.
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skywalker
climber
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Dec 30, 2013 - 07:26pm PT
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Coiler,
Go fix it...
To Tommy and Jason have fun!
S...
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nopantsben
climber
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Dec 30, 2013 - 07:31pm PT
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coiler, i find it lame to hint that you have reason to believe they alter the rock to create holds when really you provide no proof whatsoever. it's still calling them out for no given reason...
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Dec 30, 2013 - 07:38pm PT
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Enchant?
You sure that's what you meant to say?
Enchanted holds...better rack your magic wand and some eye of newt lol
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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Dec 30, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
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Ha ha ha!! Grrrr!! Like I said... I am a relic. Doesn't matter what I think. It is going to go down the way it does, no matter what you or I think. I just hope we all have fun when we are up there..... ha ha ha! Grrr!!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Remember in the 80's when you didn't have to be fit to be a rad climber?
Y'all should be happy to have sixteen 3/8" bolts at each belay for the gallons of malt liquor stuffed into FISH haulbags.
But seriously, snorting lines of bat hooks up the only chossy parts of El Cap is unreal and the coolest thing you can do in life.
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skywalker
climber
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^^^^^
Damn GDAVIS spot on...
S...
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2014 - 03:41am PT
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I keep hearing crap about bolts. Nobody is ever forced to clip a bolt just because it is there..
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PatCleary
Social climber
Rohnert Park, CA
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Pretty insane stuff, I can't imagine sticking with a project this long.
My understanding from Kevin's last slide show was that there are a few new bolts on the 3 new traverse pitches (maybe 4 pitches now), but other than that the pro is all the standard, They're up there zippering pitches of peckers, I don't think they're retrobolting. Supposedly no enhanced holds, but they've had a problem with aid climbers breaking holds.
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Jan 23, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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WHO CARES
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FredtheRed
climber
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Jan 23, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
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I wonder if they used the pockets left when Royal and Birdwell (I think it was Jim, but my memory ain't what it used to be) "sanitized" the route and chopped the bolts as holds ...
Betcha Batso is toasting their asses, wherever he may be!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 23, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
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Remember in the 80's when you didn't have to be fit to be a rad climber?
no.
the last "unfit" rad climber i was familiar with was henry barber, and he climbed like 350 days a year.
everyone good i knew or met worked out like a fiend.
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hubcap
Big Wall climber
loveland co
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Jan 24, 2014 - 11:17am PT
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Is it time for Robbins to do his Magic chopping trip again? Or is it time to rap the the route and put a nice new quality bolt every 10 feet, so that we can all share? Was there more total time on this endeavor than Hardings ascent of the nose? Whats the new FFA name? Come on guys, be creative!
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Feb 15, 2014 - 12:04pm PT
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Did Sharma play a role in working out the cruxes? If he asked for no credit, it sounds kind of like reticent sport climbing. Zippering peckers sounds nuts. Maybe an expression of borderline personality disorder, inspired by Houlding's redemption? Definitely another proud ascent, beyond my comprehension.
climb safe, allez
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weezy
climber
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Feb 15, 2014 - 01:55pm PT
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Whats the new FFA name?
i'm just gonna throw a few ideas out there for Tommy and crew...
Wall Of Burly Mourning Fright
The Brawn Wall
Dawn Juan
Sharma Quits
Living In A Van Dawn By The River
that's all i got for now.
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| Messages 1 - 72 of total 72 in this topic |
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