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Prod
Trad climber
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Dec 16, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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Moof,
You can buy I beam aluminum and cut it with a carpentry chop saw or table saw. Note on the table saw. It can and will bind and kick back more than wood. So stay aware and out of the kick back zone.
Helps if you wax the blade with a candle or bowling alley wax.
Prod.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Dec 16, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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Good stuff guys!
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local
Social climber
eldorado springs
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Dec 16, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
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Guy, nice to hear from you. I'm just working away at the AMC. If you do stop out at Marshall, you'll find the scrap yard has been scraped clean and recycled. I'm sorry to say there are no more scrap I-beams or hexes.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Dec 17, 2013 - 11:27am PT
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Sorry to hijack but...
Marty's post got me thinking about a hex I received last week. It was sold to me as homemade due to off center drilling but it just seems more substantial. What do you think about this mystery hex?
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Dec 20, 2013 - 11:12am PT
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Mine has rounded corners...doubt a DIY'er would bother with that. Colorado Nut?
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Dec 20, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
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Good observation(s)!
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local
Social climber
eldorado springs
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Dec 20, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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Looks like it could be either an early prototype Colorado Nut or a home made piece. We definitely did some crude work like that, but not a lot of those pieces made it into circulation.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Dec 20, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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The end holes are counter sunk on some of the pics up thread.
I'll check with the guy that sold to me to see if he remembers where/who it came from. Let you know...once I hear back!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 21, 2013 - 11:16am PT
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Thanks everybody for your replies! Thanks Billy for filling us in on the Colorado Nut history.
A few questions remain. Maybe Stephane can answer the Clog questions.
-When Clog Hexagons were first created, was it a set of 6, where the #7 was added years later?
-Did Clog ever create a #7 Hexagon with extra lightening holes? (Which would look similar to the Gendarme / Colorado Proto Hex #7).
-What year was the Gendarme Hex Nut first created for public sale?
 Steve, can you show us a side photo and angled/overall photo of your Gendarme Hex?
Happy Holidays everybody! Marty
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 21, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Moof- I was stoked to dig around in that pile too when I saw the photo.
Once I actually came to Sibley's shop to interview those guys to my horror he had TAKEN IT ALL TO BE RECYCLED!
Twas a dagger through my collector's heart!
Fortunately Billy and Paul had no problem with the idea of coming over with a length of the proper I-Beam stock and making a couple of sets of I-beams in the original manner. They still have all the stamps to get the job done and I get to video the entire process for historical sake.
I love the I-beam chocks! Charlie Porter made some really nice ones too.
Deep in the bowels of Moby Dick Center when the light is right you can see a big I-beam winking at you along with a few other goodies.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 22, 2013 - 04:37am PT
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-When Clog Hexagons were first created, was it a set of 6, where the #7 was added years later?
-Did Clog ever create a #7 Hexagon with extra lightening holes?
In 1966, in the long-abandoned cinema of Deiniolen (Wales), Denny Moorhouse and Shirley Smith, two original personalities, created the most mythical factory of climbing hardware, Clogwyn Climbing Gear, known as Clog for short. At that time, a day on which they produced 24 nuts was reckoned to be a good one! At the end of that year, Denny Moorhouse made his first Hexagons which inspired many later on. The size 6 was called Jumbo, the size 7 Mammoth! In few years, Clog became the generic word for nut in the language of climbers around the world. In the early 70's, Troll and Clog marketed a full arsenal of passive nuts covering a wide range of crack widths.
Troll, but not Clogwyn Climbing Gear, produced Hexagons with extra lightening holes.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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Thanks Stephane, wonderful history!
-So this leaves one question .....-What year was the Gendarme Hex Nut first created for public sale?
Hmmmmm.........1971/1972 with the first Gendarme nuts..........or earlier?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 22, 2013 - 04:44pm PT
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Unless you see a Gendarme Hex in one of their catalogs, I am not sure they even offered them for sale. I don't have any of their catalogs for reference.
The Hex design didn't have anything new to offer and they are certainly much less common that the wedge shape.
Marty- I will try and post a picture of the end taper for you here soon.
Billy- Did you guys do end tapers with a bandsaw at any point?
The milling marks on the nut that Roots has were certainly cut that way.
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local
Social climber
eldorado springs
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Dec 22, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
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Yes, we did make end cuts with a little horizontal band saw until we started using a 14" cut-off saw with a triple chip carbide blade. We blew up at least one blade cutting I-beam. There were several carbide teeth stuck in the ceiling of the old Eldorado Shop as a reminder to build and use bombproof jigs. Scary business.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Dec 23, 2013 - 03:22am PT
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Marty, Steve, to my knowledge, the Gendarme Hex Nut has never been shown in a "The Gendarme" catalog.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 23, 2013 - 11:49am PT
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Ditto that...fantastic stuff!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2013 - 12:57pm PT
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Here is another clue...
Markwell angled his sling holes to taper along with the ends.
If you compare the hole separation on top and bottom they are different with the top a bit wider.
The Clog offerings are drilled in parallel I suspect so scale yer nuts brother and report back.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 27, 2013 - 09:35pm PT
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Mystery Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 31, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
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Gear Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Gendarme Hex that I have is milled from 1 1/4" stock.
The cut width of the top is just shy of 1 5/8" and the bottom width is just over 1 1/4" (-/+ 1/32"). That makes the side cut of the ends about 5/32".
The sling holes are angled half that angle with top edge separation of 3/8" and bottom 3/16".
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