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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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IZZIT in the desert, Hank????
hee hee hee. . .
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Wow, classic shot of how useless wedge bolts are on desert sandstone!
As my buddy Bruce has noted before, people just spin down the nut until it's out of threads and then apparently think it's good....
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Wow, classic shot of how useless wedge bolts are on desert sandstone!
Yeah, that type of bolt is the absolute worst on soft sandstone.
Rawl/Powers 5-piece has sharper and cleverer mechanism for catching and tightening. Even then it's best to snug up the cone threads, to the point where the cone is just beginning to expand, before tapping the bolt into the hole, to ensure the cone catches properly. These are the bolt of choice, for sure.
On the bolt pictured, the piece of metal that is supposed to catch only has a couple rounded bumps. Fine for tight granite/concrete holes but pretty worthless for the sloppier holes you drill in softer rock.
Plus it's too short.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I'm sure The Larry has tagged this fun easy tower, Fat Bastard?
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Most of my life I've been a "water" girl growing up on Lake Erie, now living in Santa Cruz and spending a great deal of time at sea. But whenever I'm here something very primal stirs in me. I ride a mountain bike much of the time I'm here, but almost feel sacrilegious, that at best I should be riding a horse, more in tune with the natural environment. I feel privileged to regularly spend time here and hope my actions do not impact this sacred place for those that call it home.
Susan
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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If you are a water girl, get on some desert river trips. Cataract, Labyrinth, Desolation Canyon, Westwater, etc are wonderful long river trips through the desert. Some friends and I have put up a bunch of routes in Deso and Ruby/Horsethief you can only access by raft.
This thing is in Desolation Canyon and is an awesome feature. I wonder if anyone will ever do the second ascent of it.
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Perfect timing on the summit of Fang Spire, Zion.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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It's been too long since I have been to the desert....
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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get on some desert river trips
You're absolutely right, time to get outta the saddle and off the rock and on the water...although it's not quite the best season....brrrrr
Susan
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Johnny K.
climber
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Desert towers are the best.
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Crackslayer
Trad climber
Eldo
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Here is a cool tower, recently freed at like 12+ or something. Was like 5.10 A1 for me. Schoolmaster at The Wall, Indian Creek:
I've got 35 different tower summits (Colorado Plateau), and 60+ summits overall. Anyone over 100 different towers?
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thebravecowboy
climber
On this ride, I'm cptn; My pals call me Shackleton
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Feb 18, 2015 - 11:03pm PT
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!