keep tahoe Bold.

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Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 16, 2013 - 04:29pm PT

But i could boulder hard 5.12 no problem it the landing was doable.

V4, congratulations

edit: and wes, ive done most the stuff at the milks.

No you haven't. You may have done "most" of the stuff under v4, but that ain't "most" of what is there.

Blizzard

Trad climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Aug 16, 2013 - 04:38pm PT

I believe john bachar bolted the first line in the gorge with rick cashner ground up. 5 bolts in 60ft. they call it pick pocket 11a. done in 88. pretty impressive huh. I'd say that is bold. sh#t.
edit:
I meant it was the first bolted line in the gorge i believe.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 04:47pm PT

im about to go all t*r on you
and delete this thread

you boys bickering about
lame ass shet
when you could be constructively
discussing bolts.

i totally didn't want my
neato thread ends up
a pissing match,
shite flinging drama bomb.

but that's what i get,

cinco, quatro, tress, dos....

...i always get stuck at dose.

Blizzard

Trad climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Aug 16, 2013 - 05:34pm PT

Heylo peoples,
since this is a keep tahoe bold thread i was wondering if you guys got any tips for climbing trad routes ground up? Im young and dumb and have never had a mentor in climbing. I came from the beach to the mtns and learned climbing with books, trials, and tribulations. I've pulled off some widow makers and chopped a rope before and figured trying to learn on my own is not only dangerous to me but the partners i sandbag into joining me. tHat doesnt mean i am going to stop doing it, it just means i am gonna think more and seek advice before doing it again. So far I have learned basic common sense stuff like keep your belayer out of the rock fall zone. have the follower trundle the big stuff. throw small rocks on the wall away from da crag. place loose rock on a ledge if it is available. Yes i understand that i know nothing. Just seeking advice here. I am wondering about tag lines and their pros and cons also. Thanks for all the insight you guys provide. oh and i do wear a helmut.

-Bruce McIntosh

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber

Joshua Tree

Aug 16, 2013 - 05:45pm PT

when you could be constructively
discussing bolts.

You're a funny guy. When has there EVER been a constructive "discussion" about bolts? In 20-something years in the game, I've never seen one. Action speaks, the rest is just wanking.

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

Aug 16, 2013 - 06:21pm PT

A completly useless pissing match fersure.

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 16, 2013 - 07:32pm PT

I believe john bachar bolted the first line in the gorge with rick cashner ground up. 5 bolts in 60ft. they call it pick pocket 11a. done in 88. pretty impressive huh. I'd say that is bold. sh#t.

Great route. No complaints on the bolt spacing. Great warm up for the harder routes to the right. LK finished a project just right of it that day... 12c I think he said? Starts around where the "t" is in this photo. Looked techy. Hey, look at that, there is a wall in Owens I would actually go back to!!

When has there EVER been a constructive "discussion" about bolts?

patrick compton

Trad climber

van

Aug 16, 2013 - 07:44pm PT

When Ron gets called on his tired BS, it is suddenly a pissing match?

Keep it classy ST

kaholatingtong

Trad climber

Nevada City

Aug 16, 2013 - 07:57pm PT

yes, please. tuolumne was good to me, and now I see that in fact I do agree.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2013 - 08:14pm PT

ah it is not completely useless, this thread.
some folks get their jocks in a knot,
that'll always be the case regarding
bolts.

the value in this thread is that
the young eyes upon us will
inherit the vitrol passion that
accompanies our pursuit.

i am a father,
and one thing i've learned as such,
is that i cannot assume that maturing
individuals know what i deem as common.

the young folk need to see,
again and again that bolts are
to be fiercely considered before placing,
and that many people in the community
feel strongly,
one way or another about the bolt's presence
and validity.

these repeated exposures to bolt discussions
contribute to future suitor's ethical
positions.

much like (gag) politics.

so i'm merely stating, and living out
a point of view that i hope
others will consider.

when they choose their stance on the issue.

i merely and strongly believe
that those whom overuse bolts are
hasty in their pursuit of self-worth and meaning,
and lack the patience and discipline to
allow a route it's rightful birth,
which should arrive according to
some level of low impact.

now this is debatable. gee really!
because young honnold could come and free-solo
my prospective line and then claim the first ascent,
and all future suitors must strap on
those set of balls to experience the route.

that's beyond me and my ethics,
but i hope for a medium ground between
that example and the opposite
of lowering down a face on a rope
and boshe-ing your way into the history books.

keep tahoe bold.
bold is better than compromise.

Dr. Christ

Mountain climber

State of Mine

Aug 16, 2013 - 08:54pm PT

the opposite
of lowering down a face on a rope
and boshe-ing your way into the history books.

What about lowering down a face on a rope and drilling a handful of bolts that will be used by many happy people to safely explore movement in the vertical world?

Aki J

Trad climber

Placerville, CA

Aug 17, 2013 - 01:55am PT

the young eyes upon us will inherit the vitrol passion that accompanies our pursuit.

As far as I can tell, many do.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 08:45am PT

christ you got me all tangled up,
i see your logic, but i have
to conclude that ours is not a grounds of convenience.

there are plenty of saturated mediums
within our culture that offer
convenience and hyper-safety
to suitors.

gyms.
main street sidewalks.
malls.
amusement parks.
indoor race arenas.
on and on.

boldness should distinguish climbing
from the more common outdoor pursuits
like shooting guns, or four-wheeling,
or dirtbiking - all of which require
very little imagination, resolve, and
tallent of participants.

this may sound trite and self-absorbing
and i completely realize that i am
at the mercy of my hell-bound culture,
and bolts will come faster that
they can be removed.

we are a run down populace,
with less and less life inside us
at each generation.

but it's still satisfying to
make proud verbal stands,
as well as diligent, though lite
strides in the mountains

i think of redwoods and cedars.
they've a vitrol passion in the form
of chemicals in their structure
that reject pests and parasites
that want to climb their heights
and enjoy their view and exploit
an atmospheric opportunity.

but im a logger, so that's my lesson in hypocrisy.
whenever i work in the cedars,
the next day, the sawdust born tannen
has welded shut my eyes, like
a solid case of conjuntivitus,
and i can't see,
which is humbling.

patrick compton

Trad climber

van

Aug 17, 2013 - 09:30am PT

I like your vibe Norwegian, but you can't tell others how to enjoy a sport as broad as rock climbing. Because you like a Bold 5.10 doesn't make it wrong for others to enjoy a sport 10. And as soon as one bolt is placed, it is all a matter of semantics for how many more there will be.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 10:29am PT

Competition is the main driver of ethical conformity. Its been 20-30 years since rock climbers competed in the Arena of Boldness.

DMT

dingus we do it all the time.

in my opinion we instinctively
yearn for the respect of our peers.

this underlying competition
for the respectful position
is what drives mad boners
world wide.

Norwegian

Trad climber

dancin on the tip of god's middle finger

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2013 - 12:08pm PT

dingus i don't want to preach.
my girls have taught me to
appreciate today's pop music,
and i've shared some of my
music culture with them.

my intent is to re-iterate a perspective
that otherwise get's swept beneath
the virgin mary's pubic patch.

committing climbs are golden.
over-bolted sport routes and bolted cracks are pb (lead).

patrick compton

Trad climber

van

Aug 17, 2013 - 04:48pm PT

One man's gold is another's lead.

Stewart Johnson

climber

lake forest

Aug 17, 2013 - 06:08pm PT

Yes, Pussified ! Quite!
The two largest cliffs in Tahoe
have just a handful of routes between
them . That tells me Young Tahoe climbers
have no balls and they are anything
but bold.

i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber

da ow

Aug 17, 2013 - 06:15pm PT

If you follow anothers path then you're not really exploring now, are you? If the path is set in chalk marks, the difficulty known, then that's not really exploring as Wes claims. Real exploration has, and will always have some risk. Exploring without risk is oxymoronical, and claiming otherwise is hypocritcal, and frankly pussified thinking.

Thats one way of looking at, and I agree to an extent. But you can be exploring, find a wall without any prior beta and just because there are bolts there doesn't take anything away from your exploration. The you can choose to clip them, or not. It is also incorrect to think that sport climbs come without risks, or adventure. they're just different risks, and a different type of adventure. Some of my boldest moments involve second attempts to get past a crux on a sport climb after bloodying myself up on the first attempts. Maybe that makes me pussified. i don't really care though.